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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. genepires
    I am not very familiar with the situation but I thought that it was more of a command and control thing. The sheriff would not be doing the rescues but command the situation and ensure proper education or something like that.
  2. genepires
    the wood is so wet that it can be used to support the frypan over a fire and not burn?
  3. genepires
    local and custom reslinging of cams would be a great niche to get into. Lots of more rock climbers around than ice climbers. Local work would incentivize more frequent sling replacement. (instead of waiting 10 years to finally get around to it) But yeah, expense and liability are a concern I bet.
  4. genepires
    damn that is a well lived and long life.
  5. genepires
    well after the upcoming nuclear winter..........ice climbing with 3 armed mutants.
  6. genepires
    may be quicker to drive to bozeman than hike to the nearest ice.
  7. genepires
    You could always call the shop before there to see if they would into a special order before wasting your time driving there. how about feathered friends, right across from REI? if the clerks don’t give you the service you need, you can always ask for the manager. Not to bust their balls, but to get the ok for special order. may be a bit far but may save you some money is to go to Vancouver, either MEC or some other retailer.
  8. genepires
    Have you tried the American alpine institute shop in Bellingham? When I used to work there, we would carry really small to really large feet boots and def order them if needed. i find it interesting that there are shops staffed by “bruh “. The current online vs brick and mortar shop business battle, customer service for physical shops is the advantage and only saving grace. What has your experience been?
  9. genepires
    do you want a barometer or GPS based altimeter watch? or both? You may not like this answer but maybe just use your smartphone for gps based altitude? Maybe you could make the display large font? some app? If you really want a watch display, maybe a iphone to iwatch app? I am with you on the small screen problem.
  10. genepires
    did you need a telephoto lens to get some of those photos? Seems like dome is pretty damn close but I thought dome was light years from anything else.
  11. genepires
    I like my feet. Getting frostbite and losing toes is not a uncommon occurrence and not to be discounted. If the common wisdom is to use a size larger boot (assuming you can still ski without falling over which may be worse) I would suggest you follow it. It is common wisdom learned from others pain. BTW, I don't ski so my knowledge of what you are doing is Zero. But I have been to denali. We had it nice above 14K. Many others didn't It is a crap shoot so stacking the odds in your favor is always a good thing. There is a good chance of getting the skiing shut down above 14K. Are you ready to be able to hike the rest of the way in your ski boots? Very envious of skiers on the way back to the airstrip, though.
  12. genepires
    damn near centrally located in the darring-town slabbage meca. You can see exfo dome and squire creek wall. and several other slabbages also!
  13. genepires
    Is the hardware still in the leg? I have a friend who had a similar situation and time line as you a couple years ago. He mentioned the huge amount of damage that would happen to the bone if it broke in the same place with the plate still inside. He was able to ice climb but there was pain in the general location the following winter. he had the hardware taken out a couple years after the accident.
  14. genepires
    haven't been up there lately but the NOAA pin point forecast looks cold for weekend. highs of low 30F. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-120.6521987915039&lat=48.508989062540536#.XbrXrcR7laR
  15. genepires
    yeah the last time I was up there was 12 years ago and it was snow and ice from the point where you bust over the ridge to well above the winnie slide area. damn.
  16. genepires
    how much for the pants alone?
  17. genepires
    that winnie slide photo is a shock. I have been up that route a handful of times, the latest part of the season was mid august and it was bare ice top to bottom. I never saw any exposed rock like in your photo. I guess 12 years of climate change.......
  18. genepires
    I buy one even on horrible predicted years. Shitty day on the hill is 1000% better than sitting at home. even in years where it was predicted to be warm and dry turned out to be pretty OK seasons overall. but warm and normal precipitation could mean some good alpine tromping times. Warm and dry better.
  19. genepires
    according to NOAA long range outlooks https://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/multi_season/13_seasonal_outlooks/color/churchill.php winter looks a little above normal temps and normal precip.
  20. genepires
    that is just like every one of my trips except for the free food, free beer, good weather, light packs, easy hike, easy climb, clean route, perfect rack, perfect crack, perfect camp, good sleep, free heli flights, ect ect. I often have bears wave at me though.
  21. genepires
    the coleman deming side has a large end to end crevasse. you can pass it on either side but you will have a brief exposure to hanger ice cliffs above. whether you are willing to expose yourself to objective hazard is the question. the easton side is getting complicated with much of the snowpack gone and you are dealing with erratic crevasse patterns down low and large crevasses opening up high. I think there was even another large end to end crack on the upper headwall. which one is easier is a crap shoot right now, especially later on this month. sulphide glacier on shuksan should be in better shape as the bedrock has less undulations and therefore less cracks. but the real summit is got some 4th class scrambling that you may want to bring rock gear for.
  22. genepires
    another cool obscure mountain TR. I like where we are going. thanks for the TR. very good photos too.
  23. genepires
    wow! thanks for the TR. that is a pretty cool looking mountain and one I have never heard of before.
  24. genepires
    If you the quiene sabe glacier route on Sahale, do it in May or early June. Above the saddle and below the rocky summit bit usually a big ass cornice. Plenty of room to traverse safely on the windward side to get to rocky bits. The views and experience is better with that cornice. Real alpine. The rocky bit is only 20 meters or less depending on snow levels.
  25. genepires
    I proposed to my lovely wife on a forced alpine bivy in wind river range. Good epic.
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