genepires

Surprising that the first scenario (miscommunication) doesn’t Happen more often.

are there any specifics you know about? helmets worn? bad knots?

blue lake TH has that pond that harbors breeding of bugs but after a couple minutes walking, you are beyond those little bastards reach. We did not see any bugs up at the rocks but I have been assaulted badly before up high. It is rare but there is some kind of special combination that lets them live up high but not right now. no snow on approach o any of the bells or spires. there is a couple snow patches that some desperate TAY gals were making turns on this last weekend. (like they make 5 turns in one patch) that is dedication.

wait till it freezes up. may take a while.

that glacier has many flatish places to camp as you go up. just use common sense about camp location. (covered crevasses and ice fall from above) Haven't been up there this year but I don't remember any large hanging death blocks on route. prolly a good idea to camp some yards away from bootpack track and probe out your camp spot looking for covered bridges. I wouldn't trust the fact that it is level to negate the crevasse potential.

such a cool photo!

https://www.seattlemet.com/articles/2019/6/26/ballard-s-ascent-outdoors-is-back-from-the-dead?fbclid=IwAR3VWSnTSkJPA3mC5mq1uwPC6T_DdkAmRuNjqf4lMn_fB_r-SYBJing5fe4

slabbage photos are enticing. I think I can spot squire creek wall, roan wall. others in foreground?

that sounds like one great month!

Die mother fucker die mutha fucker!

I think carrying nitro is illegal in public lands. makes great stove fuel though.

maybe someone can make it spicy by throwing a ladder over that big crack. then we can get all everest style points.

From what I heard, there is a walk around that monster crack but it puts you under some hanging ice fall in the moustache area. Like 10 minutes in the possible firing line. Let the buyer beware if they choose that way.

Minus the cancer, it would be nice. but couldn’t one find a parking garage in downtown Seattle for like $20/day and van life it there?

that is so f'in nuts. $140/night. for 3 months rent, you could buy a nice van and live down by the river.

maybe you can knit a big net to catch all those falling slabs.

bellingham. damn I love me some bellingham. you can find careers there. Educational clubs courses? they have a bellingham mountaiineers club. for solid internet remote location crew, there are lots of them in mazama. damn fine place that mazama. What about requirement for winter skiing/boarding? that could make the choice easier.

you are right about individual risk but the chance of Someone getting the chop does go up would be interesting to see registration number for amount of people climbing lib ridge. I thought that the amount of people was essentially the same for the last 30 years considering it is a 50 classic.

The point Bob is making is to spend less time in the hazardous area. Spend 10 minutes or 8 hours under crumbling mud pile or under hanging icefall? All about minimizing risk, not eliminate risk.

I had heard of some big ice fall activity on the Buttes. ice fall crossing over the uptrack. Your last photo looks like ice fall that stayed near the cliff itself. Did you see any other big icefall?

Tvash and partner had a rock fall into their tent at that camp spot too but they were climbing it kinda late in season.

as I remember there are some running creeks nearby. How nearby depends on time of year and where you camp but still reasonable. I would purify it by some means. tablets purification fine if you don't want to haul up extra fuel or filter. plenty of people walking around the basin and someone must have pooped under a rock or two or 2000. I don't think they can keep day use out of the hut. Most people don't want to hike down and back up from applebee so it is not really a problem that must have been addressed. don't know about charging but I doubt anyone can stop you from using a unused charger outlet. the trail will be improved from your last time in there. I think the hut has some renovation since your last time also. A big avi smacked it around some time in the 90's.

hey Alpine dads, anyone interested in a one day craggin trip somewhere between and including exit whatever up to squish or l'worth? or alpine rock up at the wa pass? looking to keep it below the 5.10's whatever day is fine this memorial day weekend

you will not want the overboots. that is a specific condition item, like butt ass cold and requires crampons. I doubt that you will be or want to be in crampons for the whole day. I doubt your guide will allow you to use them. I had super gaiters and snow will sneak in around the rubber rand and you r boots will get wet anyways. I have guided in cascades for 8 years and very familiar with slogging up volcanoes around here. You will be glad to bring double plastic boots over leather. Leather boots are fine mid july and on. You can get by with leather boots (history has shown that old timers climbed plenty of bad ass shit with loafers) but you will be much happier with something that you can remove the liner and dry out daily.

I wonder how many people have been down to moraine lake? cool looking trip.