genepires

Best answer is from Grivel. While we all think we are pretty smart, we are all just over confident monkeys. Good luck. nice looking ice tool though.

nice way to ensure you always have some tat for rappeling. (crampon straps)

Looks a little frosty right now!

the new more mature Bob taking the high route. oh times they be changin'

based upon the two maps shown, it looks like the place where road blocked is the left hand turn on that caltopo you show? how much road walking to trailhead? seems like it should be 2.5 miles one way? (assuming the trail is 9.5 mile one way?) I tried a solo winter climb of that but had to bust trail through to much road and only made it to tree line before pooping out. would love ot make a fall jaunt before the snows come. looks real nice.

are you looking to buy or try on? I know you are trying to find someone selling within the US but I have bought stuff from europe and the shipping is not too bad, almost at par with buying stuff online from the states this place is selling that helmet for 75 euros with shipping to US in that amount. for some reason the price went from 75 euro to 60 someodd when I entered in the US shipping cost. they must be afraid of Yanks. I think total comes to $100us. https://www.outdoorgb.com/p/Cebe_Trilogy_Skiing_Climbing_and_Biking_Helmet/

I just saw your post about drytool development. I don't own a drill but I may be able to borrow one or even convince my buddy to jump aboard. where is this rock at? are you still into the drytool idea? gene

thanks for the TR. brought back memories of whitney. oh I love me some sierra's and wish I could get back there more often.

Also rearrange the order of routes from his book. If I remember right, the routes were in alphabetical order instead of geographic order.

would be cool to have some kind of wiki thing for this one day winter climbs. By being able to add info on existing routes from book and add new routes that Kloke never got in his. not really current conditions but something that would be helpful years later like access road changes, better approaches, route up dates, ect

I have been using the grivel alp wing for alpine ice routes for a while. The bend in shaft is not too extreme and you can take the trigger rest off for routes with more snow plunging. Trigger rest on and it is worthy for WI4. My version is 15+ years old so I don't if it is still made but I would still look for something like that. The trigger rest was a bear to get on but I would think they made a easier version by now.

if the noaa forecasts for el nino are accurate, this could be a great winter to knock off several peaks from that kloke book. Most routes in the book tend to be smaller peak mountaineering type of routes.

why would anyone climb a mountain without an ice axe? coolest part of trip is the summit selfie branishing your weapon of choice. standing tool-less looks lame. standing with axe poised over head looks savage. But seriously, it is always a good idea to travel with a axe if you think there is at least a small chance of walking on snow. Self arrest on summer/fall snow is difficult, if not impossible, without one. there are too many bodies stacked up at the bottom of snow slopes from being unable to self arrest. best to stack odds in your favor. think of this as a chance to spend some money, that you may not have, on one of those ultra light axes that you have been drooling over for a while. you won't notice the extra weight but gain massive "cool points" with the ladies.

I usually keep my language to overly polite, but this is a fucking ridiculous idea. I only hope that those wires are really full strength and not going to kill someone when they end up on someones rack.

seemed like 5 years ago I took my boy to the feathers. there is some nice juggy short climbs to teh right of the walk through, facing the road, that is good for kids. but I don't really have answers to your specific questions. Interested in answers though!

I am probably assuming more thought in a dogs brain, but I often wonder what dogs think about what we are doing. nice looking dog and trip.

Did you get to climb on Thursday? That is great news that they are doing repairs. Shows that they value the area.

ways back I read a book which I think was Jim Wickwires Addicted to danger. There was as story about him roped up on a glacier in a two man team in alaska I believe. His partner punches in and gets wedged in deep in the crevasse. He goes into the agony of effort to get him out, being unable and having to watch him slowly die. Even when they did everything right (roping up) they partner still died in that ice hole. That was a gripping story and always stuck with me in regards to glacier travel. Don't take them lightly! Do everything right ALL the time. Never let your guard down. Just because you have a rope does not mean safety is ensured. Being unroped and punching through means near certain getting wedged and the long painful lonely death. great book. https://books.google.com/books/about/Addicted_to_Danger.html?id=eKGZ6saSAJMC&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button#v=onepage&q&f=false

the basic focus of the short rope is stopping a slip from becoming a fall. have to evaluate the terrain the client is on, estimate the forces that would come from a slip and be prepared for that. So that stance may be good enough for the low angle the clients are on. The idea is that when a slip occurs, you yank the person into the rock quickly. the stance requirement for that action would be far less than catching a vertical fall. Now I hope (and expect) that the guide spends more time watching the clients than looking for trundling rocks. maybe he is looking for a big flat rock to shit under. I can only speak for my ways of doing things though. I only short roped on routes in liberty bell group where there are tons of secure stances, rock horns and cracks for a quick rock pro belay. A lot of times, we all proceed in manner that looks like short roping shale ground. Climbing a icy glacier headwall in usual glacier travel mode is the same thing, just more rope between people. coming down Baker late season can be the most dangerous thing we ever do.

I guess there is how it "should be done" and then there is "how it is done". ideally they should be the same. maybe our definition of secure stance is different?

either you got the graphic label wrong or I don't understand IF well. I think the eating and fasting labels are switched. Either that or you work the night shift? thanks for the info!

probably not what you saw but this is somethign different. reminds me of a wooden woodpecker https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/atomahawk-2

guiding is a job and the primary task for a guide is client safety. Not from fear of accusation of negligence but rather a sincere concern for the welfare of the client. For the most part, the client is more than a client but becomes a friend, much like climbing with a family member new to the sport. Any climber would short rope a beginning niece climbing right? No difference with guides and clients There is more to effective short roping than a death pact. Doing it right involves the guide soloing, bouncing between secure stances and in those stances allow the client to move, when the terrain could create slips. Short roping stops slips from becoming falls. But a snug rope is the only way to curb slips.

Black diamond lighthouse. Maybe add the vestibule option. Maybe they have a bigger version if you need that.

Never had them, never saw them, never heard of them. But hell, how about bamboo ski poles? If you need whippets, they say they are custom made poles. so maybe if you mail them the whippet, they can attach it. https://www.grasssticks.com/aboutpoles/