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bedellympian

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bedellympian last won the day on February 17

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About bedellympian

  • Birthday 06/22/1987

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    http://mountainmischief.blogspot.com/
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    education
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    Bend, OR, USA

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  1. Looking at climbing the W Face of CBR next weekend. After this latest storm cycle I'm wondering if anyone familiar can comment on the approach and how wet the corner pitch etc might be? Thanks!
  2. If you haven't yet, I would post it to this Women's forum on Mountain Project... https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/103989406/womens-forum
  3. Hey Bill, I think we met on Illumination saddle... you were camped up there going over to do Cathedral Ridge, this was years ago. I have two Black Spider Hoodies, they are my favorite mid layer for alpine/winter climbing. I also have the old softshell jacket and pants which I won at the Craggin' Classic at Smith... in maybe 2013?! They are still going strong, especially the jacket which I love. Glad to see NWA continuing to do it the right way!
  4. I don't know of any ascents but looks like it would be a straightforward ice route up those gullies in the right conditions. The face is only 800 ft. of gain. Western Montana Climbers Coalition would be a place to ask. They have a newsletter that sometimes publishes TRs and the members would know.
  5. I tried to cross the barrier in August 2015, but not by the way you describe. I did not see any obvious snow gully and my guess is that snow/glacier recession has left it nonviable... but I could be wrong.
  6. Someone just asked about this earlier this year. Sounds like lots of folks in Seattle area have one. Give more info about your location and goals and people will definitely help you out. Worst-case scenario: try Inter-Library-Loan at your local library, guaranteed there is a copy you can get your hands on.
  7. Yeah, REI is just another corporate behemoth, coop or not. I've been disappointed for years in how and what they have to offer. In Central Oregon we have Mountain Supply near down town Bend which is awesome. Also, near Smith there is Redpoint, though that is more rock oriented. Also near down town Bend is Gear Fix which does resole/repair, consigned used gear, and some new options. If anyone is down this way they are great options. I've also had good luck ordering from quality establishments like Climb On in Squamish (Canadian guidebooks, G7 gear, etc), Fixe in Bishop (not just bolts), and Mtn Tools in Carmel (aid/big wall stuff). Finally, ordering direct from quality companies like Beartooth Alpine in Bozeman, G7 in Squamish, Edelrid NA in Redmond is great. You can usually call them up with questions or stop in if you're in the area and want to try some stuff out.
  8. Reddside and Muffin Top at Trout are obvious candidates for the rainy months. Most of the other basalt cracks (Vantage and Lower Gorge) have too many features to resemble true Utah splitters. Boogie till you Poop in Squamish if you're headed north.
  9. Your questions are flawed... need to be able to check multiple boxes. It's not always a one-or-the-other thing.
  10. I've climbed Gerber-Sink end of March before in good conditions. I've also bailed off of a few things in there during that same time window. (End of March is my spring break, work in education.) I think the most important thing is to be flexible, as mentioned. You can get out in pretty marginal weather if avy hazard is low and you are prepared. Some other spots that should be on your list to check depending on budget/travel time available... Rogers Pass, Canadian Rockies, Glacier NP, Bitteroots, South-central Idaho Ranges, Tetons, Rocky Mtn NP, Oregon Cascades, Elkhorns, Sierra, Wasatch, Great Basin NP. I've had great luck in the Canadian Rockies that time of year. Ice is fat and sticky, huge variety of routes, alpine is just coming into condition depending on the year, cheap hostels and lots of partners to be had if you're solo or your buddy needs an extra rest day. One year I climbed 4 days of ice including routes up to 1,000 ft of climbing, then did an 800 ft limestone sport climb on a south aspect, then did a solo ski tour to scope an alpine face which wasn't in, so went mixed cragging the last day... pretty fun. Also, very different from the Cascades in-terms of rock, avy/snow, types of routes. A great contrast to what we get here.
  11. My wife is due with our second in March and with the new Oregon law I have paid paternity leave for three months... ideally I'll get a little rock climbing in between changing diapers and taking care of the family before late July when I'm going to the Cirque of the Unclimbables for 2 weeks (my wife is so kind to put up with me, and my mother-in-law will come help out). After that I have no idea... maybe I'll get back into bouldering in the fall. There is plenty of easy access boulders near my house and it's easy with kids.
  12. Trip: Columbia River Gorge - Various Ice Routes Trip Date: 01/19/2024 Trip Report: Snuck in some final pitches on Friday 1/19 and Saturday 1/20 with Damon and Angie before the rain came. See pics below... Starvation Creek area Archer Mountain area Ainsworth area? Rapping off trees to avoid tedious down climbing on hard rain ice. Climb near Archer Driving home was super fun... NOT! Gear Notes: screws... stubbies not needed! Approach Notes: AWD w/ chains
  13. If it's plain water then it's probably fine. If there is a chance anything is mixed in... oil, cleaners, battery acid then I would retire it. Maybe call the company who made it just to double check. Wait for it to dry completely before you use it. If you're still worried have a friend's rope setup to catch you if it fails and take a lead whip on it.
  14. What does that actually mean? Is there going to be a climbing ranger at 9500' teaching people in the line how to self arrest? I have no problem paying for a permit, but I think really the Federal Govt should pay the FS for the work they have to do so they don't have to try run things like a theme park business and can actually enforce rules... like the dingbats who leave their hard iced tea cans all over the lower mountain... why aren't we ticketing those people? Instead it's, "let's make the respectful rule followers pay so we can keep scraping by."
  15. Trip: Mt Hood - Elliot HW Trip Date: 11/25/2023 Trip Report: Climbed Elliot R-hand w/ Collin on Saturday 11/26. Conditions are good but pro is limited. Hero sticks the whole way and mostly AI2 with a couple short bits of AI3. Bottomed out most 13cm screws I tried to place... only placed 2-3 screws per 60m pitch due to limited options. Early season conditions add some distance... we climbed the face in 4x 60+m pitches (some simuling). We approached from the S side. Pearly gates are currently a more serious ice route than DKH1 usually is. I stepped on my phone with a crampon so no pictures. Guess you'll have to take my word for it. Have fun! Gear Notes: Some stubby screws. Approach Notes: Over S side and down to Queens Chair. Traverse in to the upper glacier.
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