bedellympian

As a father, I salute your commitment to the cause!

Thanks @JasonG for that snarky but useful response. I thought about gaiters too. Given that I would be wearing something like a modern double boot with built in gaiters I feel like this is an annoying solution. I think hemming/re-seaming like @kmfoerster suggested is the only option besides returning them and buying something that fits better. Mostly I'm just annoyed that they were listed for alpine climbing but are just baggy ski pants.

I recently ordered hardshell bib pants from Mountain Equipment because they were on sale in my size and said "alpine climbing fit". When they arrived they fit great BUT they are SO baggy around the ankles like a ski pant. This seems ridiculous for a "climbing" fit and even with G2 boots on they seem like they are at least two inches too wide and just snag on crampons. Anybody have any ideas for how to either fix this, jerry rig it, or what to look for to actually get a a climbing fit?

That last photo of you sitting at the table is great! The others are decent too I guess, but that one is my favorite.

Thanks Marlin. I talked to Duncan too, I guess he might be up that way this summer as well. If anyone else hears/knows anything let me know!

Anyone been into this zone and have advice on approach strategy? More unlikely, but anyone climbed on Geike and have beta, especially for the descent back to the North side? Thanks!

So you didn't use skis? Looks cool.

They each lost an average of 13 kgs (29 lbs). Eighteen days on route. Also, that tent site looks terrifying.

The Waddington Guide by Serl lists Corilair and Island West Air as options for planes from Van Island. Corilair offers float planes while Island West Air offers float and wheeled planes. The guide was published in 2003 so I'm sure things have changed but hopefully that gives you a starting point... https://www.corilair.com/ Looks like IWA's website is no longer up so they may be closed down. I bet all those pilots know each other so I would just call up someone and tell them what you're looking for.

Thanks for the detailed answers. Two more queries if you don't mind... How was the rock you encountered? What elevation was freezing level during your trip (night vs day)? Would also love to see more photos!

Sounds like quite the summer, would be great to hear about your other 7000m peaks too. I'm also curious how it was to setup logistics and what the cost of this sort of trip looks like?

Does anyone know how close you can get to this with a car in winter???

Some other people may have something different to say, but I would stay off of those peaks in September. The rock is bad and will be exposed, and the crevasses will be open. If you will be on a trip and don't want to climb something more technical, then go do a 3rd/4th class ridge scramble in the N Cascades. If you want to climb a glacier route plan a trip for May/June.

Thanks for sharing these climbs Nick. Always cool to see these more obscure routes out East.

Can you be more specific on what you mean by "resources" and "dead ends"?