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Found 12 results

  1. Selling an essentially new pair of Grivel G12 New-Matic crampons for $100. These have never been worn outside and look like it. I can meet in the greater Seattle/Bellevue area and out I-90 a bit. Shipping is an option but I'd add that to the price of the crampons.
  2. I am selling a pair of lightly used La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTXs in size 43.5 (10.5) for $275. They have seen light climbing, most of which was on snow/ice and very little rock so they are in good shape with lots of tread/rand. They have the volume liner and a pair of green superfeet inside. I can meet in the greater Seattle/Bellevue area and out I-90 a bit. Shipping is an option but I'd add that to the price of the boots.
  3. Trip: Eldorado - NW Ice Couloir Trip Date: 11/03/2019 Trip Report: Camille and I had a great alpine romp on Sunday. Fall alpine ice season is in full swing!! Anyway, we left Mt Vernon at 1 am and headed toward Cascade Pass. We arrived at the Eldo trailhead at 1:45 am. Confused? so were we. Turns out, it was daylight savings and 2 am became 1 am. We started uphill at 2 am. Immediately I realized it had been a while since I'd been up Eldorado as the giant log we used to use to cross was gone and the river had clearly changed a bit. We explored downstream for a dry option to cross and found an icy, uphill log. This worked but it wasn't graceful, felt like climbing a squeeze chimney. Once across, we started up the trail, it felt warmer higher, the cool calm air must have settled in the valley. Near the top of the boulder field, Camille took a spill and smashed up her shin pretty good, lots of blood, very deep (sorry, no photos). But, she's a trooper and after a tight gauze wrap, we continued up. Snow started at 5000ft right at the end of the boulder field. It was refrozen week-old snow, that was mostly supportive and we switched to boots above, around 6000ft. We cruised up to the flat glacier below the summit and saw two guys walking downhill toward us. They had technical tools and said they had climbed the couloir the day before and found great conditions. This was exciting news as the several days prior had 9 to 11k freezing levels and that had me worried about the condition of the route. With tracks to follow and knowledge of a high-quality route, we crossed to the east ridge campsite and stopped to put on crampons. It had taken 5.5hrs (7:30 am) at this point and the sun was just rising. From there we had tracks to follow in the snow crossing the inspiration glacier to Deans spire where we found a 2 piton anchor with cord for the first rap. (Lucky that we have tracks to follow) We racked up while we still had sun and rapped the first 30m. We brought a single 60m rope so we had to get a bit creative on the raps since we couldn't find an obvious intermediate anchor. I found a good spine to the skiers right and we went another 30m off an equivocation hitch. That brought us to above the last vertical step and there was a single small fixed nut (perhaps a bit rusty) on the side. I backed it up, sent Camille first, then pulled the extra gear and headed down. In retrospect, I should have just left another nut to back it up. The raps left us just about 100m from the base of the climb and it looked pretty ideal. (HUGE thanks to the guys before us who replaced the tat at the top anchor and left tracks for us to follow all day). We tied in and started up, just simuling up the steep snow. It looked like there was going to be a lot of ice and based on trip reports, most people preferred fewer screws and more rock gear but these were not the conditions we had. We brought 3 screws and a bit more rock stuff so I was pretty bummed and had to be quite selective with where I put screws. We simuled through about 70m of actual climbing before reaching a near-vertical step. There was a nice crock on the climbers right so I belayed there then started up the step. All of the following pitches were a blur, a lot of AI2 type ice, sparse gear (maybe not if you had 6 screws), and a healthy dose of simuling through progress captures took us to the top. What I do remember is a ton of very high-quality ice, slightly soft but not wet. Not too many dinner plating issues and one ~20ft step that was AI3+ or maybe even 4. Quite steep, found a great pin at the base and halfway up put in another screw. (see a video of this on my insta @porter.mcmichael) There was an equal amount of steep neve connecting the ice pitches and a few short sections of mostly unconsolidated sugar. One thing that was perhaps slightly alarming was due to the warm temps, there was a near-constant barrage of ice pellets coming down the couloir. Not a big deal until something bigger knocks ya off when you're 100+ ft run out. I never saw anything bigger come down and around the top, there wasn't much that looked like it could come off in a bigger way. I suppose this is to be expected on bigger funnel-like routes when it's warm. I think I did 4 belays in the couloir (could be 5 or 6) before topping out on a fun 30ft roll of wet ice. We tied off short and went up to the left about 40ft before gaining the ridge that led ~100ft to the summit. Spectacular as always. Seemed a tad knife-ier than normal which was fun! (I wore tights, sue me ) After a few photos, we headed downhill. It was now 1 pm and we (or maybe just I) were slightly confused about the whole daylight savings thing so when darkness would arrive was something of a mystery... The descent was cruiser until we got off the glacier. There, the snow got very soft and we started punching through the crust. This was slow, tiring and hard on Camille's banged up shin. We got down off the boulder field before true darkness set in. (Jburg looking dashing as always) Upon getting back to the river, neither of us wanted to bushwack to the sketchy log so we just walked through the river and hopped in the car for 16.5hrs c2c. Not the fkt I'll bet but we were worried about timing since we were going c2c and it worked out alright. Thanks for reading along and hopefully this provides some good beta for future climbers as well as anyone who wants to go get after it in the next week or two! See you in the mountains! ~Porter PS. I'll put a few first-person vids of the climbing on my Instagram @porter.mcmichael (Shameless plug) Gear Notes: Cams .3-2, 3 pins, a few nuts, 3 screws (10,13,19), forgot pickets, 1 would have been nice for the conditions we found, more would be nice for more normal conditions). Approach Notes: Standard now seems to be the rap by Deans, could use better rap stations (or I missed them or they're buried.)
  4. As the season kicks off use this thread to post ice conditions, photos, and beta for Winter 2019-2020.
  5. Four years ago I thought I was gonna be a mountaineer! I enrolled in the courses, I bought the gear, and I started paying the tuition. Currently, I am in school to be a doctor of physical therapy. Can you guess what happened? I got mega injured and spent so much time in rehab that I decided on a change of life course. Fortunately, all the gear listed here is 100% brand new and never been used. I didn't get injured USING the gear, but I did remove the price tags when I first purchased them- thus, I cannot return them to backcountry.com for a refund. I simply held onto all this stuff hoping that one day I'd use it. But now I lay awake at night thinking about my extravagant student loan debt and not so much about summiting any dang thing in Patagonia. So, you want some of these goodies? Everything is 100% brand new and the prices are simply 50% of what I originally paid for them a couple of years ago. Local pickup in Portland is preferred, but I can maybe drive stuff out to you or ship it also depending on what all is good for everyone involved. Attached is a nice little PDF of some photos, information, and prices about all the gear. I'll keep this list up-to-date as things move. If you see it here, then I have it at my house! Have a great season everyone! Again, prices are listed at 50% of what I paid for them and all items are in the same condition as I received them. The list includes: 1. Black Diamond- Prime Alpine Touring Ski Boot - 27 - Bd Orange $150 2. Salewa Vertical Pro Mountaineering Boot - Men's - size 9 $160 3. Petzl Lynx LL Crampon with Fakir Crampon Bag $105 4. Dynafit TLT Radical ST Binding - 92mm brake $250 5. Garmin eTrex 30 GPS $90 6. Black Diamond / Pieps Sport Avalanche Safety Set (incl. shovel, probe, beacon) $190 7. Grivel G1+ S.A. Ice Axe w/Leash - 66cm $50 8. Suunto MC-2G Navigator Compass $40 Mountain Goods.pdf
  6. BD Fuels, never used, $299.00 EACH Msrp, buy them both for $450. Email me at verticalpope@gmail.com if you’re interested
  7. Use this thread to post ice conditions, photos, and beta for Winter 2018-2019.
  8. Pair of BD Viper Ice Tools. Very good shape. $300 Pair of Charlet Moser Pulsar Ice Tools. Very good shape. $200 Charlet Moser M10 crampons $50 Grivel G12 crampons $70
  9. Trip: Mt Baker - North Ridge Trip Date: 05/20/2018 Trip Report: Quick conditions update for Mt Bakers North ridge for anyone interested. Peter, Lael, and I left Bellingham, skimo gear in hand, at 4:15 Sunday morning. We left the car (.5 mi from trail head) in running shoes at 6:00am and cruised up to heliotrope, past a big group of guided skiers. We continued in our comfy shoes (in the rain) up the snow to the last flat before the steep face leading to heliotrope ridge. Here we left the shoes and booted up to the start of the Coleman glacier. With light skis on our feet and rain only getting harder, we zipped across the Coleman, motivated to stay moving quick by crashing in the fog above as seracs fell from the Coleman headwall. After crossing by an unnervingly fresh debris field we were at the base of the north ridge and threw the skis back on the packs. It was decision time and with a few sucker holes in the clouds (and a knowledge of the forecast) we decided to continue moving upward. Our choice proved fruitful (despite post-holing in the deep slush with no boot pack) and we began to feel ourselves nearing the top of the clouds as we approached the ice step. Peter led a full 30 meters and made an ice screw belay at the top of the ice step, he then dropped the rope so I could lead it too. From the belay I pushed upward in the first firm snow of the day (more on this later) as Lael followed up the ice. We gained the ridge proper and were living large as the sun came out. We the saw what appeared to be another ice step which was confusing because Peter soloed the route the week before and saw no such thing. Upon closer inspection the 5ft high vertical face that stretched across the North West face of the ridge was clearly an avalanche crown (probably several days old). With no where to go but up we chopped a step and bouldered up this small face onto snow we now knew was somewhat unstable so we stuck to the ridge proper from then on. Again post holing we pushed for the summit, anxious that we would be too late for firm snow to ski. We arrived at the summit around 1pm and wasted no time skinning over to the top of the roman headwall. Skins ripped. Boots locked. Dropping in! Slushy mank... The skiing sucked but it sure beat walking. We skied back into the clouds and cruised down as fast as our quads could to heliotrope ridge then back down to the trail. Skis back on the pack and running shoes on, we jogged down the trail to the car. Whole ordeal took just a bit under 10hrs. Lael hauls up the Coleman Post Holing up the Ridge Cruising up... Ice pitch near the top of the clouds Ice Pitch Ridge Selfie! Steep ridge after the ice pitch Spicy crown proved to be a V3 boulder move Clouds Breaking Sunshine on top! Back in the fog after the ski Thanks for reading, hope this helps someone! Gear Notes: 5 ice screws, glacier stuff, 2 tools each Approach Notes: Road is open almost to the parking lot
  10. Winter is only done on the calendar! I am just returning from a trip in the Alaska range, and am super stoked on big snowy, rocky, and icy alpine routes. I am currently unemployed and with only a few exceptions have the rest of April free. So I am free for mid week and longer trip too The routes looking at are: Cauthorn-Wilson, Watusi Rodeo, North Face Big Four, Gerber-Sinks, or anything else along those lines. Hit me up if you want to get out and climb!
  11. WA Climbing

    Hey all- I will be in WA during the first/second week of March. I'd love to do some climbing for a few days before heading up to ski in BC. Give me a shout if your are available/interested; happy to discuss more details over email, text or phone. Thanks!
  12. Idaho Ice Partner wanted

    Looking for an ice partner in Southern Idaho, currently in Boise but obviously can meet at the crag. I am safe with a buttload of gear. PM if interested!
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