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DPS

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DPS last won the day on January 30

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About DPS

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    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. You may want to check the list of closures. Many of your objectives are off limits through September 30. https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbing-area-closures-and-restrictions-due-to-covid-19
  2. Perhaps this is tangent to the thread, but Yocum Ridge was short listed (top 100) for 50 Classic Climbs in NA.
  3. @kmfoerster, that looks like a well sewn pack. Did you take a class to learn to sew or are you self taught?
  4. So, not a mod I made, but mods I requested. Randy Radcliff at Cold Cold World customized an Ozone to meet my specs, all to get a pack as simple and functional as my Serratus Genie worn thread bare by 48 seasons of hard use. Still cost less than similarly sized CiloGear or WildThings packs, the only other packs in contention. Full 201D Dyneema Grid fabric Ice axe and crampon attachment system Side daisy chains for securing pickets, foam pad, trekking poles, or skis Weight: 1 lb., 8 oz. (Roughly, used a bathroom scale)
  5. This reminds me of when crazypolishbob/glassgowkiss refuted Colin Haley and Mark Bunker's winter ascent of the Upper NR Stuart because he was there and did not see any tracks. There was another fellow who refuted Colin's report of soloing the NF Robson in a day and a half. I certainly believe lando's claim. Having had my own go around with the Yocum Ridge I can say with some authority that it is not technically difficult, just really scary and dangerous. I'm sure lando is perfectly capable of climbing the rig. Why would someone lie about climbing a route that maybe 10 other people in the world care about anyway? I feel that in this game you really have nothing to gain by making false claims, especially a route on Mt. Hood.
  6. I can see Artem's point. When neither belay anchors nor protection will hold a fall the rope merely binds everyone's fate. Those are the kind of routes that I try to avoid. That said, I recently soloed an alpine ice route I've wanted to do for 20 years but I have never seen in protectable conditions. Soloing the route felt like the safer option, a judgment call made looking through the lens of 30 years of experience.
  7. Tatoosh Lane Peak Various couloirs on the NF Pinnacle Peak North Ridge
  8. JayB, didn't you and Paco (Eric Sweet) put up a route on Shuksan? Satan's Sidewalk, or am I thinking of someone else.
  9. Just to jot down a few more routes while they are in my head: Mount Hood: (Much info on Wayne Wallace's blog: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/?s=hood) North Face Left Gulley North Face Right Gulley Black Spider https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2010/03/07/the-black-spider/ Three Little Monkeys: The Pencil Arachnophobia: Elliot Glacier Headwall Reid Glacier Headwall Yocum Ridge Illumination Rock (Topo from Wayne Wallace) Johannesberg Peak NEB NE Face Mixup Peak West Face The Misunderstanding Sahale Peak East Face Couloir
  10. @Kyle M I did not get your email. Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com.
  11. Nice list, there are a few of these floating around. Yours adds a couple of new routes. There has been a winter alpine guide book in the works for some time. I was expecting to get a draft for review, but that was a few years ago. If someone was industrious they would create a web based guide book to winter ascents and your blog is a good start. (Hint, hint).
  12. An assload of money

    This begs the question how much is a s#*t ton of money? Is s#*t a different unit of measurement from metric or imperial tons?
  13. Nice work boys! Looked like conditions are as good as they get on that route. When my partner I attempted it 20 years ago we had a disagreement on the route. I said we needed to follow the left traversing kitty litter and verglass covered sloping ramp/ledge to the OBVIOUS dihedral/gulley system. He disagreed and insisted that we needed continue up the broad couloir. He is more stubborn that I am so up the couloir we went and discovered fun ice and mixed climbing. After we pulled the final obstacle I told him that was definitely not NY Gulley. He said 'I know, but there was no f'ing way I was going to cross that ramp'. The route we climbed has been since described variously as NJ Turnpike (our name) and LA Express.
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