DPS

Would that be Leland Winham's route on the South Face? If it is I can probably get the info from Leland. I recall he said it was 5.11 A0 or 5.13 and he called it "Nothing".

If I climb PR I will definitely post here.

Sounds good Oleg, maybe next year! Let's do it!

I love that channel, it changed the way I rig anchors.

Thanks for the beta. I would only have to aid the first 6 pitches, the rest I could free.

I've attempted PR a four times, but various factors skunked each attempt. Maybe next years.

Easton Glacier is as straight forward as it gets. I don't remember any tricky spots or route finding problems, however, there are some large crevasses. We did it the first week in May on skis and even in early season there were some large crevasses open, which were a bit creepy to ski around. Three days would be very casual, we did it C2C in an easy day.

SS. you make a good point. The routes in 50 Classics are not always the most difficult or most aesthetic, some are of a more historical significance. For example, is the WR the best route on Forbidden? Many would argue NW Arete is a much better route, however, WR has more history. I think as a young and inexperienced climber I had unrealistic expectations for LR.

Oleg, I was underwhelmed by the route also. We dodged large falling rocks from the toe (5th class climbing on an un-mortared pile of bricks) to Thumb Rock. I wonder, however, if PR was a 50 Classic Climb if there would be more accidents on that route.

We have that route on our list. I've reached out to some the folks involved to get beta and photos.

Very sad to see another young person passing.

NR Stuart is a bit of a pickle. One can go early season so you can approach from the north and descend the Sherpa Glacier (shorter) but contend with verglass, wet rock, and snow or go late season and approach and descend from the south (longer and more tedious) but enjoy dry rock and a lighter pack (no crampons or axe). Either way a full value adventure.

Where are you located?

Hello, I'm looking for a partner for a mellow outing on Saturday or Sunday. I'm out of shape, so something with an easy approach and low 5th class would fit the bill. Some ideas: The Tooth, WR Chair, Ingall's Peak or something similar. Newbies welcome. I can supply the rope, rack, and I can drive. If interested please email: daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com Thanks, Dan

Matt Perkins, Alasdair Turner, and Jason Killgore attempted something on Sperry in March 2002 as I recall. Not sure how far they got though.