DPS

My main recommendation is to really think about how many calories you will need. The camps on the West Buttrash are so close together that the days are very short, even the ones where we made a carry to a high camp and returned were never longer than 5 1/2 hours. We budgeted 5,000 calories per day based on suggestions from a book, which ended up being way too much. We could have easily gone with 3,500 per day. Realize that you will spend more time not climbing than climbing, so a few days your caloric intake will be higher, while most days lower, but I think for me personally, 3,500 per day would have been plenty. With all the down time, cooking became an activity. I made a pretty good risotto from instant rice, chicken soup, freeze dried veggies, cheese, and salami. I would also experiment with the backpacking ovens to make pizza and cinnamon rolls. Bring a fry pan to make pancakes.

My Icebreakers boxer briefs came out of the drier full of holes after wearing only once. I know they should not be dried in the dryer, it was an accident. My Icebreakers GT 250 shirt sustained a hole when a pine needle from a tree grabbed it. After wearing it for a couple hours under a pack, the shoulders developed big holes. I think merino in general is very fragile, that is why you see manufacturers blending it with bamboo (cool) and polyester (defeats the purpose). Maybe a 50% merino, 25% bamboo, 25% silk blend, properly spun, would have better durability and wicking properties? My Smartwool socks wear out in the heals very quickly, but I will only wear merino liners under VBLs. On Denali, I had a pair of Smartwool liners and a pair of synthetic liners. After a few days the synthetic liners smelled like death, the merino smelled fine.

Last time it snowed enough to ski it, my wife said it was a stupid idea and someone posted photos of their once in a decade ski on Tiger. I'm not missing out this time. The only thing that worries me is the exposed bit coming off the summit. I saw a dog tumble down that slope once.

I'm skiing from my house up and down West Tiger 3 this weekend, if it snows like forecasted.

Backcountry is selling the 0.5 - 3.0 set for almost the same price. https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-camalot-c4-package-0.5-3?CMP_SKU=BLD0918&MER=0406&skid=BLD0918-OC-OS&mr:trackingCode=A29691DA-F061-DF11-9DA0-002219319097&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=_k_EAIaIQobChMIm4GDx76W4AIVwhx9Ch2rCwbJEAkYByABEgIPMPD_BwE_k_&rmatt=tsid:1042790|cid:292652677|agid:20469783517|tid:aud-374182320191:pla-384586361251|crid:92885922157|nw:g|rnd:3105726976229086532|dvc:c|adp:1o7|mt:|loc:9033305&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm4GDx76W4AIVwhx9Ch2rCwbJEAkYByABEgIPMPD_BwE

I went up to Chair Peak last two Saturdays. I noticed a hard, 1/4" thick layer of ice under the snowpack. Last Saturday it was covered by 12" of unconsolidated snow. The steep slopes in Chair basin had slid below the SW Chimney all the way to the hard layer. I personally find the persistent sliding layer unusual for the Cascades, and I don't think the warm, wet weather this week will do much to consolidate the snowpack to the sliding layer or below it. I am concerned that the sliding layer will persist throughout the winter causing high avalanche danger until some kind of event or change in conditions bonds the ice layer to the layers below and above it. Please be mindful as you head out into the backcountry this weekend that avalanche conditions appear to me to be uncharacteristic of the Cascades. Be safe out there.

Looking for a partner for a fairly committing mixed winter alpine climb Dec 23-25. Long range weather forecast is favorable, indicating wet weather followed by a strong cold snap just before the climb dates. I have some objectives in mind, but no reliable partners. If interested, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com or text (206) 276-8991. Thanks, Dan Smith

Thanks Rad. I was up above Source Lake last Saturday with snow shoes. Good to know there is a boot track now.

Looking for a last minute partner for Chair Peak tomorrow, 12/8/2018. This will be my 21st ascent of the peak, I try to do it every year as a season opener. I can provide the rope/rack/4WD car. I would like to leave Issaquah at 5:00 AM or meet up at North Bend around that time. All experience levels welcome. If you are experienced, we can try for the second winter ascent of the West Ridge, or if you are new, we can run up the NEB, which can be climbed in many conditions. If the East Face by some miracle looks like it is in shape, I would consider that as well. I'll be on snow shoes, I have pair to lend. If interested, please text me at (206) 276-8991. Daniel Smith

I think as you get into climbing you will inevitably end up with multiple pairs of ice tools. As an 'older' climber, it took me a few fits and starts to go leash less. I've tried BD Cobras (best swinging tools ever), but the picks are inferior to Petzl and Grivel's forged ones. Tried the Viper (older style, everything there is to hate on the Cobras, none of the great swing), the new ones look pretty nice though. Tried the Quarks, too light for my tastes and were tough to hang onto when going leash less. I decided to go full on leash less for harder routes (Grivel Tech Machine, basically identical to the Petzl Nomic's geometry), and use my Aztars for alpine routes, still the best alpine tool I've found. For moderate alpine routes, I found one full length axe and one North Wall hammer to be a great combo. My modern equivalent is a Petzl Summit Evo and a 50 cm Sum'Tec. Great for routes like Liberty Ridge on Rainier, or North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Baker where there is some technical climbing but a lot of lower angled climbing as well. If you want an all around tool, look at the Grivel North Machine, although I hear the pommel is tough to hang onto in leash less mode, Petzl Quark, and BD Viper. I find the hammer and adze on the Cobras to be ridiculous for real alpine use, but if you don't mind dropping $700 for tools with a useless hammers and adzes and an inferior pick, they swing like butter.

Hi, I would like to get out on Sunday to take advantage of the good weather. The alpine rock routes received a fair amount of snow, and Leavenworth will be a zoo because of Octoberfest, so I was thinking either North Bend or Index. I am super out of shape, so I can lead only easy stuff, or follow slightly less easy stuff. I have a rope, a rack, and a car. I'm happy to climb with newbies or experienced partners, but I won't be able to follow anything harder than 5.9, if that. Please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested. Thanks, Dan

Sorry for your loss, I hope you get it recovered or at least the loss is covered by insurance. This is not a 'I told you so' but, I've always maintained that TNF duffle bags scream 'Steal me!', while army-navy surplus OD green duffle bags fly under the radar. I also refuse to put any kind of sticker on my car indicating what kind of goodies might be inside.

I have yet to climb with anyone who trains with Crossfit who is more fit that I was when all I was doing was trail running , working construction and bouldering during the week with alpine climbing on the weekends.

Raise $1,000,000 and climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks. Go big or go home I guess. Best of luck.

I want to go on record as having only served briefly on the periphery of this campaign. Additionally, I was only friends with that young Russian woman.