Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


DPS last won the day on April 2

DPS had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

21 Excellent

1 Follower

About DPS

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    Well, there's a problem right there. That's about 30 lbs.
  2. I remember that it was a long walk but at least my feet hurt.
  3. Rainier July/August 2019

    Liberty Ride will almost definitely be out of shape by July 27.
  4. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    So, I tried guiding for a season, I was terrible at it. Anyhoo, one guest showed up with 4 gallons of water. I explained that we would be melting snow for our water and she did not need more than 2 liters.
  5. Boot Recommendations for Shuksan

    Years ago I was climbing a moderate alpine rock route. I like Hexes in general and I like the additional challenge of climbing without a rack of cams. So, I was swinging leads and my partner slung a chockstone for his first placement and clipped the entire rack of Hexes to it so he did not have to carry them.
  6. Alpine Dads wanted

    Can dads with adult children apply?
  7. Boot Recommendations for Shuksan

    Here you go. Note that to get your pack weight down, you will decide if you really need a full rope and rock gear. Going with just a 30 meter rando rope for the glacier and planning to solo up and down the pyramid if that is in you comfort zone will lose quite a bit of weight. Clothing Head Warm hat Smartwool Beanie Helmet Black Diamond Tracer Hands Liner gloves Cheap poly pro/light fleece Warm gloves Smartwool leather Feet Boots Scarpa Charmoz Warm socks Goodhew (x 2 pair) Sleeping Socks Smartwool Legs Briefs Poly Tights/long johns Light weight Pants Prana light weight softshell Torso Shirt Patagonia light weight, long sleeve, zip tee Light insulation/outer layer Marmot DriClime wind shirt Shell Montbel Versalite Belay Jacket Patagonia Nanopuff Hooded Personal climbing equipment Backpack Montbel Balance Light 40 Harness Black Diamond Couloir HMS Carabiner Mammut Belay Device Petzl Reverso Small carabiners Mammut locking x 2 Chicken Sling Double 9/16" nylon Ice axe Petzl Summit Evo 60 cm Crampons Grivel hybrid Air Tech Lite (steel front, aluminum rear) Optional - depends on your risk tolerance for glaicer travel - usually advisable Ice hammer (late season) Petzl Sum'Tec 50 cm Picket MS Coyotoe Pulley REI Prusik Cords 5mm perlon (Texas set up) Ice screw (late season) 16-19 cm Odds and ends Water bottles 3 liter Camelback, 1 liter Nalgene (empty, useful for collecting water and as mug) TP Partial roll First aid kit Blister stuff, gauze pads, analgesics, athletic tape, asthma inhaler Camera with pouch Panasonic Lumix Essentials Kit Stuff sack Small, red silnylon stuff sack Sunglasses Cebe glacier glasses Knife 2.5" Buck with 1/2 serrated blade Sunblock Aloe Gator Gel SPF 40 1oz Lip balm Bannana Boat SPF 15 Lotion Coconut oil Lighter Small Bic with guard removed Extra batteres for headlamp 4 x AAA lithium Headlamp Black Diamond Storm Water treatent tablets Chlorine Dioxide Compass Brunton Spoon Titanium Shared climbing equipment Ropes 50m x 8.5mm Edelweiss Sharp Everdry half rope Optional - depends on how comfortable you are climbing moderate rock. Summit pyramid can be climbed at easy 4th class to mid 5th class Nuts Black Diamond Stoppers #5-#13 Hexes Black Diamond #8-#11 Alpine draws 6 x 60cm sewn spectra with 2 wire gate carabiners Double length slings 2 x 120cm Spectra runners with 1 locking carabiner each Gear sling 9/16" x 60 cm sewn sling Tat 20 meters of 6mm cord Camping equipment Sleeping bag Stoic Somnus 30 degree Sleeping pad Thin Evazotte Trekking poles Atlas Shelter Black Diamond Betamid with stakes Stove MSR Pocket Rocket with heat exchanger Pot 1 liter, black anadozied aluminum with handle Fuel 16 oz MSR Isopro Spoon Titanium Bowl Thin plastic Lighter Mini Bic Hygeine Kit -optional Toothbrush Travel size Tooth paste Trial size Floss Trial size Hand santizer Trial size alcohol gel Foot powder Gold Bond trial size
  8. Boot Recommendations for Shuksan

    A number of years ago when Second Ascent was Second Bounce located in Fremont next to Dave Page I saw a fellow walking down the sidewalk in Fremont wearing Royal Robbins rock shoes. I am sure he bought them at Second Bounce. Quite a sartorial statement.
  9. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    Definitely bring gaiters, I accidently left those off my list. Yeah, don't bring a rope, I just cut and pasted my personal gear list to give you an idea of what I bring and I always rope up for Rainier.
  10. Boot Recommendations for Shuksan

    So, I've climbed and skied Shuksan eight times by five routes, including multiple ascents and many descents of Fisher Chimneys. Your choice of footwear will be dictated by the time of year you go. For Fisher Chimneys I would recommend going late season (August-September) with a single pair of boots. Something like the Scarpa Charmoz or La Sportiva Trango would be the ticket. Light, stiff soled for the steep snow/ice portions and rock climb well enough for the summit pyramid. I've never used Salewa boots, but the Crow looks to be nearly identical to the Charmoz and Trango, so IF it fits, I think it would be a great choice. Don't do the two shoe strategy, that is just increasing your pack weight. Believe it or not, I once climbed it with a guy that used THREE pairs of shoes - rock shoes, approach shoes, and plastic boots. He had more strength than money to buy a single pair of appropriate footwear. Also, FC in 1.5 days is pretty typical. Camp on top of Winnie's Slide, just below the steep ice curtain leading to the upper Curtis. One of the best bivis in the Cascades - scenic, running water, right next to the route, plenty of flat, dry real estate. Definitely get your pack weight down. For an overnight trip on FC there is no reason why your pack should weigh more than 35 lbs at the heavy end. If you want a detailed gear list of what I would bring, I am happy to provide it.
  11. Rainier- Kautz vs Emmons route

    So, Jason has pretty much hit the nail on the head. You really don't want to be on any route with rockfall potential after June, as a generalization. Emmons has the least amount of objective hazards relative to most of the other routes. The Kautz is steeper and in later season turns into a real ice climb, so if you are looking for that kind of action take that into consideration. As for best time to go, beginng of the season and September would not be either of my recommendations. Look at in terms of a chart with two lines. The chart starts in May, ends in September. As the season progresses, the weather becomes more stable (the line rises in terms of % chance of good weather). It takes a pretty big jump around July 5th and then more or less becomes asymptotic through the end of September. (Basically, weather is stable July 5 through Sept 31). The other line is the condition of the glacier. It starts out high in May and decreases throughout the season, bottoming out in October. The guides do a good job maintaining the routes, installing ladders and fixed ropes and what not, but there is only so much they can do, especially when the route becomes bare glacial ice. In a low snow year the D.C. becomes completely impassible and gets rerouted below the cleaver onto the Emmons as early as August. What you want is to time your trip at the nexus of these two lines - select the time frame when you have the best chance of good weather and good glacial conditions. This is typically July. June is not a bad time, but your chance of having good weather is not as high as in July. Also, have you really looked at all your options? Maybe a skills course through AAI (American Alpine Institute) on Baker would be a better experience? Really not much difference than Rainier except a bit lower in elevation, much more of a wilderness experience and better views.
  12. Rainier in July

    Just a local's suggestion, July is typically very late for Hood, I would recommend against it. Also, the interesting (North Side) routes on Adams could very well be out of condition and the South Spur route will be pretty uninteresting after Rainier. Not to highjack your thread, but have you considered climbing the Emmons on Rainier (shorter drive from Sea-Tac and closer to the goods in the North)and then heading north to sample the North Cascades? Easton Glacier on Baker and Suphide Glacier on Shuksan would be a very convenient enchainment. Or, if you have had enough of big glaciers you could do the Ruth-Icy Traverse, one of the most scenic, moderate, and easily approached routes in the North Cascades. Just a local's opinion, take it or leave it.
  13. question Dry treated ropes?

    That was my point. When I am climbing in the mountains, I take dry treated ropes, no question. For rock climbing in sunny weather at Index, Leavenworth, or Squamish, Smith Rock, etc., I don't find the dry treatment to be worth the extra cost when I can get a great 60 meter, 9.8mm rope for < $100.
  14. wanted to buy cilogear SMALL 40B worksac

    How about a custom built custom built CCW Valdez or Cherynobyl? Cheaper and way more durable. Randy is very amenable to making packs to order, not just for size but fabric and features so you can get pretty much what you want.
  15. question Dry treated ropes?

    I completely agree. Dry treated ropes are not necessary and only increase the expense for rock climbing. Who rock climbs in the rain? I NEVER buy dry treated ropes for cragging/rock climbing and am always able to find really nice, 60 meter cords for under $100. Alpine and ice climbing is a different story. I use doubles and spend the extra $ for dry treatment. Climbing with frozen ropes is no fun.