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DPS

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DPS last won the day on December 14

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About DPS

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    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 11/30/1999
  1. Concerning snow pack

    I went up to Chair Peak last two Saturdays. I noticed a hard, 1/4" thick layer of ice under the snowpack. Last Saturday it was covered by 12" of unconsolidated snow. The steep slopes in Chair basin had slid below the SW Chimney all the way to the hard layer. I personally find the persistent sliding layer unusual for the Cascades, and I don't think the warm, wet weather this week will do much to consolidate the snowpack to the sliding layer or below it. I am concerned that the sliding layer will persist throughout the winter causing high avalanche danger until some kind of event or change in conditions bonds the ice layer to the layers below and above it. Please be mindful as you head out into the backcountry this weekend that avalanche conditions appear to me to be uncharacteristic of the Cascades. Be safe out there.
  2. Looking for a partner for a fairly committing mixed winter alpine climb Dec 23-25. Long range weather forecast is favorable, indicating wet weather followed by a strong cold snap just before the climb dates. I have some objectives in mind, but no reliable partners. If interested, please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com or text (206) 276-8991. Thanks, Dan Smith
  3. Thanks Rad. I was up above Source Lake last Saturday with snow shoes. Good to know there is a boot track now.
  4. Looking for a last minute partner for Chair Peak tomorrow, 12/8/2018. This will be my 21st ascent of the peak, I try to do it every year as a season opener. I can provide the rope/rack/4WD car. I would like to leave Issaquah at 5:00 AM or meet up at North Bend around that time. All experience levels welcome. If you are experienced, we can try for the second winter ascent of the West Ridge, or if you are new, we can run up the NEB, which can be climbed in many conditions. If the East Face by some miracle looks like it is in shape, I would consider that as well. I'll be on snow shoes, I have pair to lend. If interested, please text me at (206) 276-8991. Daniel Smith
  5. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    I think as you get into climbing you will inevitably end up with multiple pairs of ice tools. As an 'older' climber, it took me a few fits and starts to go leash less. I've tried BD Cobras (best swinging tools ever), but the picks are inferior to Petzl and Grivel's forged ones. Tried the Viper (older style, everything there is to hate on the Cobras, none of the great swing), the new ones look pretty nice though. Tried the Quarks, too light for my tastes and were tough to hang onto when going leash less. I decided to go full on leash less for harder routes (Grivel Tech Machine, basically identical to the Petzl Nomic's geometry), and use my Aztars for alpine routes, still the best alpine tool I've found. For moderate alpine routes, I found one full length axe and one North Wall hammer to be a great combo. My modern equivalent is a Petzl Summit Evo and a 50 cm Sum'Tec. Great for routes like Liberty Ridge on Rainier, or North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Baker where there is some technical climbing but a lot of lower angled climbing as well. If you want an all around tool, look at the Grivel North Machine, although I hear the pommel is tough to hang onto in leash less mode, Petzl Quark, and BD Viper. I find the hammer and adze on the Cobras to be ridiculous for real alpine use, but if you don't mind dropping $700 for tools with a useless hammers and adzes and an inferior pick, they swing like butter.
  6. Hi, I would like to get out on Sunday to take advantage of the good weather. The alpine rock routes received a fair amount of snow, and Leavenworth will be a zoo because of Octoberfest, so I was thinking either North Bend or Index. I am super out of shape, so I can lead only easy stuff, or follow slightly less easy stuff. I have a rope, a rack, and a car. I'm happy to climb with newbies or experienced partners, but I won't be able to follow anything harder than 5.9, if that. Please email Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested. Thanks, Dan
  7. Stolen Gear Bellingham

    Sorry for your loss, I hope you get it recovered or at least the loss is covered by insurance. This is not a 'I told you so' but, I've always maintained that TNF duffle bags scream 'Steal me!', while army-navy surplus OD green duffle bags fly under the radar. I also refuse to put any kind of sticker on my car indicating what kind of goodies might be inside.
  8. Using Crossfit for training

    I have yet to climb with anyone who trains with Crossfit who is more fit that I was when all I was doing was trail running , working construction and bouldering during the week with alpine climbing on the weekends.
  9. Raise $1,000,000 and climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks. Go big or go home I guess. Best of luck.
  10. I want to go on record as having only served briefly on the periphery of this campaign. Additionally, I was only friends with that young Russian woman.
  11. I want to go on record as having only served briefly on the periphery of this campaign. Additionally, I was only friends with that young Russian woman. NO COLLUSION!
  12. Biggest concerns are weather and avalanches. Check both forecasts before going. On the south side as Ivan suggests, you could skin all the way to the bergschrund, a few hundred feet below the summit. As for best month, I suppose that might be late February. A bit longer days than early winter and there is typically a high pressure system that builds around President's Day weekend. Make sure you all have avy gear and training, synthetic belay jacket, extra food and plenty of fuel for the stove.
  13. [TR] Half Moon - North Ridge 06/23/2018

    I did this route a few years ago with very little information and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the pitches after the first rotten pitch. Here is a TR from my trip: You were right to climb it with snow. That scree was among the worst I've experienced: https://www.summitpost.org/north-ridge-of-half-moon-kangaroo-ridge/863616
  14. This route needs a direct start and finish. There are a lot of high quality pitches (more than Serpentine Arete IMHO) but also a lot of 4th class and one really, really, really unpleasant pitch. Following the ridge crest the entire way would eliminate those sections. Also, Ice Cliff Arete needs a direct start. Anybody want to do some adventurous rock climbing?
  15. The past 18 years I have climbed Rainier using a BD Betamid tarp, except for North side routes in winter. Staked and guyed out properly I have rode out 30+ MPH winds in exposed bivi sites with no trouble. Also, consider using the Muir shelter. It gets a bad rap but you can save the weight of the tent. Choosing a sheltered camp site, digging in and properly staking/guying out your Hubba Hubba tent should be fine. I find the parachute style tent anchors are superior in snow to traditional stakes.
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