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  1. Today
  2. Beacon

    8/20 - day 22 - lap 18 - thick canuckistani clouds of smoke upon the land - bonneville dam a mystery just 2 miles away - a morning lap w/ familiar faces on right gull and whatever it is we call the line just right of young warriors w/ the new bolts (the bolter himself on hand giving it a go) - not much time for dilly-dallying, but bootied a sweet dmm offset nut after near ten minutes of monkey-hammering on it w/ rocks and nut tool - another below it but non-offset and a bit of a puzzle as to how to extract and thus not worth the effort - some union bidness over lunch dispensed, then it was the doc and my dupuytren's contracture poo-poo'ed and finally a lovely mile long swim back and forth and back again out at battle ground lake
  3. Yesterday
  4. best of cc.com The Nodder?

    sure is, Nodder
  5. Phone with black case found at a campsite on the lunch counter August 18th. Tell me what the photo on the lock screen is and I’ll arrange to get it back to you!
  6. Cascade Volcanic Arc is not the same thing as Cascade Mountains. The Cascade Volcanic Arc runs from Silverthrone to Lassen, so it includes a fair chunk of the southern Coast Mountains as well as all of the Cascades. Btb you got Silverthrone Meager group Cayley group Garibaldi all the US ones I'm pretty sure nobody's done all of those in a season let alone in a year.
  7. Upper N Ridge w/ glacier approach = need both. Direct/Complete N Ridge = don't need either. You can get water at the base of the N ridge and there was water running off the snow patch just below the summit on Sat afternoon too. Have fun up there!
  8. Trip: Sherpa, Argonaut, Colchuck, Dragontail - Sherpa - N Ridge, Argonaut - NW Arete, Colchuck, Dragontail - Walkups Trip Date: 08/09/2018 Trip Report: @Albuquerque Fred and I had a great 4 days over August 9-12 in the Stuart Range. Fred put this plan together to avoid permits and maximize climbing. It worked great, good camping, sufficient water, great climbs and not bad approaching. It was extremely hot the first two days however, we did mostly avoid smoke. We hiked in on Thursday afternoon in 90-degree heat and camped at about 5700' NW of Argonaut Peak in a beautiful sandy patch amongst the boulders. The next day we did the North Ridge of Sherpa and back to camp. The climb was fun but we cheated a bit by following ledges to the left because we were so hot and worried about water that it made taking the tough line a hard choice. It would be a great climb if you stayed faithful to the ridge crest I'm sure. The crux pitches were 5.8 as advertised, but easy pro and not long. The descent went mostly per Nelson and Potterfield, definitely "arduous". Day three we carried camp over the NW Arete of Argonaut and down to Colchuck Col. This was a great climb with an easy descent or raps and walking to Colchuck. After lots of food and water in camp and some sheltering from wind and brewing rain we ran up Colchuck. I may have said something like "we better run if we want to avoid the rain" but I didn't mean it literally... Fred did. Day four we walked up Dragontail and down Asgaard Pass and out to the car, passing ten thousand people. Up to this point we only saw three guys in the woods on their way out from Sherpa on day one. Awesome. We had planned to descend Asgaard because there is a lot of ice exposed on the Colchuck Glacier. I was taking a break from my phone on this trip but I know @Albuquerque Fred got some photos. Maybe he will share! Gear Notes: Single rack sufficient, lots long of runners 60m rope rock shoes approach shoes No axe or crampons needed the whole trip, we carried them for training. Approach Notes: Trail, woods - no real brush to speak of by Cascades standards.
  9. I did the West Ridge (descended CC) and was able to almost completely avoid snow. You should be good for the descent. Can't speak to the North Ridge approach though.
  10. Curious if anyone had been up recently and can speak to the need to bring ice axe and/or crampons for the south approach/descent. Would love to shave a little weight on our trip next week!
  11. Trip: Selkirks - High Traverse (III 5.4) + Harrison Peak Trip Date: 08/18/2018 Trip Report: This was a super-fun day of playing in the mountains. We kept it casual and still did the route in 10 hours, including a stop at Harrison Lake for a swim. If you're in the area and have a day to spare, this is a fun objective! For more info and photos, check out the full trip report. Gear Notes: Nuts, cams .3-2, 60m rope (but any length will work) Approach Notes: Wet bushwhack to Beehive Dome from Pack River road, but it's impossible to get lost.
  12. Lion's Head trail work

    Scott, you're the man. Thanks to all of you for your hard work. I'd like to go back for the Great White Corner before this season is done!
  13. Sensing a common theme! We also got lost coming off of the south twin in the valley, and then again in the woods. I think getting out of the woods took longer than the rest of the climb... haha
  14. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I think JasonG hit an important detail in his first reply: not a lot of good pro in most Cascades "4th class" terrain. I often joke that we've taken to calling low-5th class terrain with bad pro "4th class terrain" to make ourselves and our significant others feel better about the choices we make in the mountains but the consequence of a fall is the same as a lot of 5th class terrain. Most of the 4th class routes I've been on have had some protection, either gear or weaving the rope around terrain features but I know there are some serious choss dogs out there that like to climb vertical gravel.
  15. There was a group of lady splitboarders that set out to climb and ride all of the volcanoes in one push. There are a few caveats to their effort but their accomplishment deserves acknowledgment. They focused on fun and splitboarding over standing on every true summit and they didn't get a weather window for Rainier during the time they had together so they added Garibaldi to their original list and had to give Glacier Peak a second try to get it. Most impressive is that the core group consisted of people who are primarily snowboarders, not mountaineers or endurance athletes, one of which was coming off an Olympic gold and retirement from a career as a halfpipe rider who jumped right into the world of mountaineering. Pretty amazing effort conceived by Maria DeBari with Kaitlyn Farrington and Freya Fenwood along with cameo appearances from Lucas DeBari, Krissy Fagan, Hana Beaman, Gaby and others. https://snowboarding.transworld.net/almost-famous-volcano-tour/ https://www.mountbakerexperience.com/almost-famous-maria-debari-and-friends-ride-24-volcanoes-in-45-days/
  16. best of cc.com The Nodder?

    sure is smokey in here
  17. Positively excellent! Thanks for the report. Just got my Nexus card and BC is my new backyard.
  18. Trip: Vancouver Island- Elkhorn Mountain - Threading The Needle: WI-4, M-3, D+, 310 Meters Trip Date: 03/10/2018 Trip Report: With clears skies forecast Chris Jensen, Ryan Van Horne and I packed our bags and set our sites on Elkhorn Mountain. Initially our climb was to be on it's Northeast Face, but slightly warmer temperatures had the face shedding snow at an uncomfortable rate. Fortunately for us the North Face of the mountain, which we traversed on our way to scope the North-East Face, was solid and worthy of climbing. Here's the North-East Face looking as though it's in the Cordillera Blanca: We set up shop at the bottom of a deep chimney that had a promising start and appeared to continue upwards to the large snow pack above us. With a nice looking grade 4 pitch above us I racked up and set off. As per usual it was steeper than we thought, fortunately for our arms the lower section was close to a rock face and we were able to stem back and rest up for the upper half of the pitch. Here's Ryan enjoying a rest before he ran our of rock to rest on: With this fun pitch below us our stoke was high. Ryan racked up and lead the second pitch which had constant grade 2/3 steps for 50 meters. Here's Ryan dealing with the first step of the second pitch: Once anchored off above the second pitch we found ourselves at the base of the upper snow field. Chris took this pitch all the way to the start of the grade 4 pitch of an existing route: The Winter Needle. Here's Chris punching steps up the upper snow field en route to the upper mountain: With this long pitch below we set our sites on the existing route: The Winter Needle. Unfortunately the warm temperatures now exercising their influence on conditions we once again opted to back off and re-route our path due to spin drift coming down. A long pitch that had 20 meters of simultaneously-climbing lead us to a solid anchor just below a short mixed section that hopefully would allow us access to the Northwest aspect of the mountain. Here's Ryan making his way up the mixed section atop pitch 4: With our belay now in the sun, for the first time, we realized time was going to be an issue. Fortunately the top pitch of the Winter Needle has an easy chimney that leads to the summit. Here's Ryan and Chris enjoying the sun atop pitch 5: With day light at a premium Chris quickly set off and cruised up a snow slope to a comfy belay not too far from the summit. Here's a view looking down from the top of pitch 6: With the sun setting over the west coast of the island Chris, Ryan and I found ourselves standing atop the island's second highest mountain under blue bird conditions- definitely a summit experience to remember as the sky lit up and and smiles were wide. After a few quick photos on the summit we descended the upper section of the Northwest Ridge in the dark- 5 rappels and some down climbing later we found ourselves back on the Northwest ridge and at our camp some 15 hours after we set off. Threading The Needle: 6 pitch, 310 Meter, D+, WI4, M3 P1- WI4, 50 MeterP2- WI3, 50 MeterP3- WI2, 120 Meter, mostly snow slope (simul climbed after 60 Meters)P4- WI3, 80 Meter (20 Meter Simul Climb after WI3 step)P5- WI3/M3, 50 MeterP6- WI2, 60 Meter Gear Notes: Full rack of screws, handful of cams and nuts, 4 pins Approach Notes: Approach the the North-West Ridge trail, as described in Island Alpine Select by Phillip Stone.
  19. Beacon

    8/19 - day 21 - lap 17 - after a week at buxom lake quinault, i was querulous with cooped up beacon longings - sure, two grand lake crossings, both clad as a glorified white-walrus, did excite the meat in the marrow, but gawdamn it ain't quite the same, is it? the rock much as i left it, rudely exposed to heat and wind, but rife w/ life - a crew with a dude named cannon i think - kayakers all upon the sound, fallen several feet from last i'd seen it - a lovely dmm off-set nut that i shall have come tomorrow morning or me name's not cheap-skate-mcgee
  20. Wired BD Hexcentrics sizes 8 & 9: $8 each Blue and brown Tricams: $12 each Rappelling 8: $5 Original owner. No falls on the gear. located in Seattle.
  21. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    Another significant injury on forbidden. Climbed slipped and got wedged in moat. Broken back. Two hikers have fallen off bridges on Wonderland Trail and been swept away (dead). and of course the woman lost on Vesper Peak. 7 fatalities and 1 serious injury is a lot in one summer. probably still missing a couple.
  22. I'm selling a Mountain Hardwear Archer 2 Backpacking Tent. This sturdy tent has ample room for 2 people and gear. It has served us well, but seen minimal use over the last few years. Still in very good condition. No damage, clean, all is in working order. Sorry I don't have a picture of it setup, I'll try to add some later. For now, learn more about it and see more pictures here: https://www.rei.com/product/830110/mountain-hardwear-archer-2-tent
  23. Selling an MSR Freelite 3 Tent. At 2 lbs. 15. oz. (minimum trail weight), this is one of the lightest 3-person tents on the market. We purchased it for a 3-month bike tour across Europe and it served us great, but has seen little use since then. Still in very good shape. No damage to tent, rainfly or poles. Includes all stuff sacks and stakes that came with it. Sorry I don't have pictures of it setup. Didn't have time, but I'll try to add some later. For now: see more pictures and learn more about it on REI.com: https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/131142/msr-freelite-3-tentAnd here: https://www.msrgear.com/ca/tents/freelite-3-ultralight-backpacking-tent
  24. Last week
  25. Hello! I have a bunch of like new and lightly used tents that I am looking to sell. If you would like to see more photographs of any of the tents just let me know! Prices are negotiable!Northface A5 Portaledge: $300Sierra Designs Summit Extreme: $400Big Agnes Lynx Pass 3: $150Integral Designs Chock Solo: $150Walrus Rapeede: $125 Cheers
  26. Shuksan

    Going to be in Auburn WA and have free time from 9/10 to 9/14. Solo so looking for someone who would like to do Shuksan.
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