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  1. Today
  2. Did you summit?

    Good article ... basically it comes down to being honest if you are going to boast. With the need to claim one's frame (aka mouth masturbation) the boasting becomes bloated. The first time I "summited" on Rainier, we reached the summit crater but not Columbia Crest. When we were checking out with the rangers they asked if we summited. We said no and that we had only reached the summit crater. The ranger just laughed and said that was where most people stopped and that we had summited. We felt slightly better about our ascent. The next time I "summited" on Rainier I was damn well going make sure I really reached the summit and walked around whole summit crater. Since then there has been only one ascent on Rainier where we finished the route but did not reach one of the three high points.
  3. Did you summit?

    This sounds so pleasant!
  4. Did you summit?

    I've certainly never been sponsored, so I don't speak from experience there. My thoughts are captured in this tidbit I put in a CC TR for Challenger "On the last day of our trip, we encountered novice hikers and experienced climbers below Hannegan Pass who all asked if we successfully made it to the Challenger summit. They offered congratulations when we told them we did. This felt weird because our summit day was technically, mentally, and physically less challenging than many other parts of our trip. The greatest rewards lay in overcoming the various challenges we encountered along the way, spending time with a close friend, and experiencing nature on its own terms."
  5. Did you summit?

    Rad has a point. The colleagues I know who make the biggest scene about summit-honesty-ethics, etc etc are those who have money at stake. I've played the sponsorship game and its a pain in the ass - gets in the way of the fun I'm tryin' to have. Sponsored climbs have cost me friendships and climbing partners. The summit is merely an excuse to jump on the route. The journey is where the action is. The destination is just the excuse to begin the journey. -Haireball
  6. Yesterday
  7. my trees don't seem to mind. they apparently prefer being climbed to being cut down for firewood... -Haireball
  8. I would be happy to share beta on the Icicle and Tumwater canyons. Mostly, we locals don't bother to document/publicize our routes because we believe other climbers might enjoy the feel of climbing undocumented routes -- the feel of a "first ascent". However, we also recognize that not every climber has the time and resources to get the most out of "adventure climbing". Some folks really do need to know where and what a climb is. So, we're willing to share the wealth. True, some of you will miss out on the "adventure" feature, but many will be happy to know of the many little-known and perfectly accessible venues out there. -Haireball
  9. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Ok, finally conditions have stabilized sufficiently to justify a latest edition of Haireball's Ass-clammin report: After monitoring the Funnel for a week, and snooping around elsewhere in the Icicle, Anthony Lubetski and I pulled the trigger and walked up to Hubba Hubba this morning. It had not been our first choice, but Eightmile Butt-rest has melted out, and the only other ice that looked remotely climbable was the Dog Nasty Dike on Dog Dome, and we were not prepared to bridge the river. so - Hubba Hubba. after a sobering approach over piles of avalanche debris we estimated at thirty feet or more deep, we found the Funnel to be badly sun rotted and shedding bits at a greater pace than we wanted to risk, so we opted for Hubba Hubba left, hoping for two pitches WI-3, M-0. The first WI-2, M-0 pitch was bony but fun (I always enjoy old-school mixed), but the second WI-3 pitch was being continuously scoured by bits of ice and dirt shed from the sun-baked ridge above, so we chickened out and rapped off from the resident anchor. It was a fabulous morning, even with the post-holing in an inconsistent snow cover that could be a leg-breaker for the unwary. lowland ice appears to be disappearing at an unexpectedly fast pace,. When Dr Shipman and I can do a fly-over (nice to have climbing partners who own and fly small airplanes), I'll present what we see in the alpine venues. If we don''t suffer a catastrophically abrupt spring melt, I expect to see a superb spring alpine mixed season in the Stuart range. -Haireball
  10. Did you summit?

    If you didn't spray about your ass-scent on social media with a professionally edited drone video and product placements then you're not going to land sponsors. No sponsors = no money = no lovin'. Summits and fun are irrelevant to the equation.
  11. Did you summit?

    This, for so much in life. Guile is lame.
  12. Did you summit?

    Did you have fun? Then you had fun! Go you! Did you get to the highest point? Then you summited! Go you! Ideally I do both. I think the first one is a more noble pursuit, but to confuse them is silly and dishonest (likely with others and self).
  13. Did you summit?

    I agree with Jason that if you don't touch the summit you did not climb the peak. I also agree with Gene that if you get home safe and have fun that is more important. I will add that if you're going to spray about your trips just be honest about what you did and don't try to couch it in a way that implies something other than the truth. I got within spitting distance of an unnamed summit in India a couple years ago soloing, certainly closer than the Challenger scenario you mentioned. I turned around when I got to a loose rock band just below the top. I did not summit, I did not climb the peak. I accomplished everything I wanted to by staying safe, having fun and testing my body at altitude. If you need to hide the truth to portray a certain outcome then your ego is much too involved and you should probably do some serious self-reflection.
  14. I think the tree would appreciate climbers stay in the gym even if one of their own is sacrificed for the cause.
  15. or you could just run laps up & down tree trunks with your regular tools/poons... -Haireball
  16. Geezer on Rainier in 2021

    what Oly said!
  17. Did you summit?

    The only marker for a successful climb is if everyone gets home without a need for medical assistance. Fuck actual summits. Was it fun? Success.
  18. Yes, for sure! Glad to hear that it went off without a hitch, relatively. What a day out there.....
  19. Did you summit?

    The point and sole purpose of mountain climbing is to reach the peak, the true apex. Only then is the mission successful. All else should be considered failure and should be mocked and ridiculed.
  20. Last week
  21. Trip: Barometer Mountain, Baroclinic Zone - S Ridge Up, N Ridge Down Trip Date: 02/27/2021 Trip Report: Me, @thedylan and @MGraw skied Barometer Mountain last saturday with the goal of skiing out down what has been called the Baroclinic Zone. I don't know if this is a well-accepted name but we found it on Caltopo. We dropped a car at the Salmon Ridge Snopark at the Nooksack bridge, then got a buddy to give us a ride to Heather Meadows. Thanks Dave! We skinned over Herman Saddle and Galena Butte getting great light powder turns, then followed some guys up the south ridge of Barometer. They set a great skin track and I was glad I told them so when we later found out they are CC poobahs, great meeting you guys! The skiing off the summit was great, then a short skin up to the 5500' point on the north ridge of Barometer. From here we had a great time skiing 3300' down to Anderson Creek Road and out to the car. There were some tight trees and some brush but it was great (we called it mini ski mountaineering to adjust the mental picture of what is acceptable fun). The snow coverage was good all the way to the car where we had chips and beer. A great time was had by all! Me and Dylan nearing point 5500': Great tree powder: Photos by Mike, scouting trip 3 days prior by Mike and Dylan, nice work! Gear Notes: Skis Approach Notes: Car shuttle was clutch!
  22. Did you summit?

    There are none! No summit, no party.
  23. Did you summit?

    http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215692 Pretty good article on how many people are actually reaching the true summit of 8,000 meter peaks. I think it's pretty common in the Cascades as well. I personally have reached the crater on Rainier and Helens but not bothered to slog to the actual high point of the rim. Does it count? I've read some TR's for Challenger in particular where the party claims to have bagged the peak but admit they didn't climb the summit block, usually due to weather. Should that count since they didn't climb the technical part of that peak? I guess I can't criticize anyone since I haven't literally summited Rainier or Helens. How about Luna? I haven't attempted Luna yet but understand most folks do not make the traverse to the actual summit (at least according to Juan Sharp). What other peaks are accepted as a successful climb without actually touching the summit?
  24. Hey, I started making these tools for indoor ice climbing / drytooling training. You can climb with them on your home wall or climbing gym on regular holds without damaging them. Check them out at https://drytoolz.com if interested. Patrik
  25. confessional

    Putin is such a clown puncher. Those were supposed to be Marked For Death. I knew I shouldn’t trust him.
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