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Love it. The sped up climbing sequences with the mic picking up all the grunting is pretty funny.

Thanks for all of the work getting the peak officially named Jason; I know that it was a red-tape nightmare. It is an apt tribute to Dallas. Many good memories climbing with him; some good ones in the Sisters Range as well. RIP Dallas.

Looks awesome; thanks!

Thanks for posting! Its a great route; glad it was impacted too much.

Maybe this was already shared here, here it is again if so. I love this YouTube channel.

Love that area, glad you were able to get up there ♥️

This is a great deal! If I didn't have all these already I would be on it.

I have a Torre and it is bomber. Vestibule is part of the tent. Not an attachment.

Some books for sale, 5$ each: -Selected claimbs in the Cascades. - Selected claimbs in the Cascades Vol II. - Washington Pass climbing. - Leavenworth rock. - 100 Classic hikes in WA. - Climber's guide to the Olympic Mountains.

It's been a while since I've been up that way. Thanks for the reminder of how beautiful it is.

Wow this is awesome @Christopher Fisher thank you!

IMG_0997.mov Always fun to see what he’ll get up. There were a few places where I wondered if he would make it (this was an easy one), but he just sent it. Few times I missed it, no idea how he got up.

Wow, it is crazy how fast the melt is accelerating in the past 20 years or so. I have even seen it plainly on Dome as well. I have no doubt that another 20 years of this will be even more dramatic. Great looking trip with Kiba!

That Kiba is a good looking pup!

Happy to share the beta! Especially for a route as popular as Ragged Edge that got a new potential crux at a higher grade than it was previously.

Thanks for the fabulous description, both graphic and text, of the recent rockfall. As someone interested in doing the route next season, I'm glad to know just what I've been warned about. Beautiful write-up.

We only have one sponsor for this site, and they are keeping the lights on! They are having an event, its been added to the site calendar, but here are the details if you missed that. Give them your support, they support us!

Sad stuff. I did like the photos though!

https://glaciers.nichols.edu/north-cascade-glacier-retreat/ Daniels Glacier on the northeast side of Mount Daniels retreated only 20 m from 1950-1979. From 1979-1992 the glacier retreated another 25 m. From 1992 to 2005 the glacier had retreated 441 m, with 700 m of retreat by 2023. The upper section of the glacier has thinned and new rock areas are showing through. The long lower margin of the glacier extending to the right has melted out in 2005. The glacier is losing area rapidly and is honeycombed with subglacial caves with thin ice above, ready for more rapid retreat of this type 2 glacier. In 2023 we could see the bottom of the glacier in many crevasses. There is no retained accumulation in 2023, the third year in a row with no significant retained accumulation, hence this glacier cannot survive long.

Well, another image conversion thing to look at. Board doesn't like my iphone configuration I'm using. (.dng).

Trip: Granite Mountain, Tuck and Robin lakes - dog route Trip Date: 10/13/2024 Trip Report: Kiba and I hit up another super crowded classic made less crowded by being late in the year. drove up to the trailhead and there were only like 20 cars! I remember driving up during the Covid years and counting some 200+ cars filling the parking lot and lining the road forever. Slept in the parking lot and hiked up to the upper Robin Lake. Super sunny and I didn't feel like doing much so we took a nap in the warmth and then wandered around the lakes up there. Next morning hiked up to Granite Mountain, really nice up there! I gotta find older pictures of Mt Daniel...wonder how much the glacier on it has melted out. I know the Hinman glacier was pronounced dead in 2023 I think? It has a good time out with my best buddy, absolutely bluebird days. Sorry for all the photos, I'm pent up here... Gear Notes: stuff and things Approach Notes: walk up the trail

Trip: Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge - Rockfall Beta - Ragged Edge Trip Date: 10/12/2024 Trip Report: TLDR: Recent rockfall on Ragged Edge has made the climb even more ragged. Summary at bottom. I followed Ragged Edge on Vesper Peak last year, and I decided to wrap up my alpine season this year with a victory lap leading Ragged Edge on 10/12 to celebrate my hard earned leading skills. Reading up on the beta, I discovered that sometime last month (first mention I saw of it was Sep 17th), rock fall at the pitch 4 anchor modified the route. Beta on how the new route is still minimal (best report I found on Cascade Climbers here), but what I found implied the route was still climbable. So I decided to go check it out and try to write up a more detailed report on what changed. I don’t imagine too many more attempts will be made on Ragged Edge on Vesper Peak this year, so this is more of a heads up to next year. This is my best guess of the rockfall that occurred (picture taken from a screenshot of this video) Having climbed it, and because the new route has now been gardened a bit, I did not think that the difficulty of pitch 4 has been impacted (I would say that 5.7 is still reasonable). The main difference is that you now have to do face climbing to get to the anchor. Protection opportunities were limited, but still there. ***Beta Ahead*** There is a thin crack vertical system where I managed to put a size 3 or 4 nut. Above that, there was a small crack that you could probably place a .75 cam (I didn’t place because I put my foot there), and higher up, I was able to get a sub par .5 cam in (crack wasn’t very deep to get great teeth engagement). See pic below for my nut and cam placement.***Beta Done*** Top is pre-rockfall (screenshot from here), bottom is current I did not see any obvious signs of damage to the pitch 4 anchor (I don’t think the rock that fell was ever directly connected to the wall the anchor was on). And the only impact I saw to Pitch 5 was the first move to get onto it. I really struggled with finding a remotely ergonomic position to belay from. Here is a pic of me belaying, and I recommend flipping positions from what I did to the position shown in the post I referenced above, because the way I was positioned resulted in the rope going over my leg while belaying. The start of Pitch 5 is what I would call the new crux of the route, though difficulty will be quite dependent on your height and arm span. To add to the difficulty, a fall at the start will drop you over the edge. At about 6’, my partner made it look pretty easy to make the transfer over. At 5’7”, the move was close to my full arm span, and I thought the transfer quite challenging. I’d personally put that single move at 5.9. A recommendation to the leader, is after making the transfer over, to place the first piece as high as possible in the first crack system, so as to reduce the risk of follower going over the edge if they fall on the first move. ***Beta Ahead*** This is roughly what I did to transfer over to pitch 5. Just up and to the right of the anchor there is a vertical edge for your left hand, then there is a very small divot in the wall roughly halfway across that you can put your right foot. From here, I was able to reach over and grab the right side (another vertical edge). Then with my arms near full span on the holds, I swapped to my left foot on the divot, then (it gets a little hazy), I took my left hand off the hold, and with most of my weight on that left divot, very carefully moved my left hand and right foot over to the crack system and pulled myself up onto a nice step on the side of the crack system. ***Beta Done*** Left is new route, right is old Due to how popular this climb is, I think there are a few adjustments that could be made to keep the route at about the same grade. To start, moving the pitch 4 anchor up 3-4 feet would make belaying much more comfortable. Also, because of how committing the move to the start of pitch 5 is now (if you fall before placing a piece, you’re going over the edge), I think it also makes sense to add a high bolt between the pitch 4 anchor and the crack system at the start of pitch 5. This would help reduce the risk of you going over the edge if you fall on the first move, and could also be potentially used to “aid” the first move if you don’t have the arm span to make that transfer. This way the climb won’t have a new crux that is potentially significantly harder than the rest of the climb. I would also keep an eye on the remaining stacked blocks that are on the route of Pitch 4. They did not appear to be connected to the section that broke off, but they did appear to take a glancing blow on the side when the rocks fell. I did not see any obvious signs of rock shifting, but it was definitely a little unnerving climbing that section, knowing that another section just above it broke off the wall. Summary: -Rock fall modified the end of Pitch 4, but not in a way that I thought changed the grade at 5.7 -I did not see any obvious damage to the pitch 4 anchor -Only the first move of Pitch 5 has been impacted, and depending on your height and arm span, might be the new crux of the climb. At 5’7”, I thought the transfer quite challenging at 5.9 (or maybe a touch higher). -Current belay at the pitch 4 anchor is quite awkward. Adding an anchor 3 feet up would make it much more comfortable. -Because of how committing the move to the start of pitch 5 is now (if you fall before placing a piece, you’re going over the edge), I think it also makes sense to add a high bolt between the pitch 4 anchor and the crack system at the start of pitch 5. -I would keep an eye on the remaining stacked blocks that are on the route of Pitch 4, to make sure they don’t start shifting too. A few good links showing the rock section that fell: Old Pitch 4 belay stance: https://youtu.be/v7txavGSxUY?t=223 Old start of Pitch 5: https://youtu.be/3LhEzi3i8go?t=170 Old start of Pitch 5 (with a 360 camera): https://youtu.be/RIifPYskm-Q?t=58 Looking down at the Pitch 4 anchor: https://youtu.be/twQmCoWF_dA Drone footage of the face (will need to pause, and possibly go frame by frame to a view of the side): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOYiEt3aCFA&t=29s Gear Notes: Unchanged, except maybe also bring a small nut in the 4/5 size range for the new end of pitch 4. Approach Notes: Unchanged

Nice report!! Would you mind showing /drawing in your photo where exactly the off width is please? Thanks.

Right! You said photos, d'oh.