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  2. Trip: Okanagan - Cirque of the Unremarkables Trip Date: 02/14/2019 Trip Report: After work ice cragging, what!? Pretty fun, comes in fast.. about 20 min north of Vernon, just take the turn-off for the Tolko mill and you can't miss it. Gear Notes: Ice stuff Approach Notes: Nowt!
  3. Polar Vortex

    Just got back form a month in Banff. Climbing in the Polar Vortex was kind of brutal.
  4. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Still plenty of ice on the Eliot. 2 more lines have formed up right next to the Cooper 30, and some mixed as well. Had fun up there today.
  5. Go to the trip report section and search for TR’s from “off_the_hook” (I think his real name is Leor). He did some phenomenal link-ups in superhuman short amounts of time. Most anything he did is likely worth repeating but it might take you 4 days rather than 22 hours.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Hey everyone. New to Washington, coming from Colorado and I am incredibly excited to get out and explore the Cascades. I have just about every guidebook, but I wanted to reach out on here for some specific suggestions. There are a few Colorado projects that I've been obsessing over/have enjoyed (like Nolan's 14 and parts of the LA Freeway route) and I'm looking for similar things in the Cascades. Mostly I'm looking for long endurance days that can be done solo (I am comfortable on class 3 and snow travel, but not on glaciers or anything requiring extra pro or above class 3). I'm mostly interested in fastpacking, multi day, multi summit, mostly off trail adventures. Really, I'm training for a full traverse of Colorado's Sangre de Cristo range (77 peaks over ~103 miles with 53,000 ft of elevation gain and up to class 4 climbing) and was wondering if anyone would be willing to share their favorite sufferfest/fastpacking routes or long endurance projects. Bonus for amazing scenery, double bonus if you want to join! Thanks for being willing to share. Cody
  8. Last week
  9. Ice climbing kit

    I’m looking for dmm rebel axe pairs, do you sell them?
  10. eastern oregon

    Oregon111 could you possibly say where you were on the John Day River?
  11. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I have a few spots open at a cabin on Banks lake this weekend, looking for more folks to split the cost. Grill on the porch, ice by the road. Contact me by my gmail if interested, it's my name mikmetzler at the gmail domain.
  12. I got these used a few years ago and really haven’t used em much. Gravel Racing crampon fronts bolted to old Sportiva mountain boots with custom heel spurs (also comes with the Grivel heels). Boots are beat up but worked, size 10 or so. There is finally ice, go climb some hard shit for me! Meet up near Seattle or $10 shipping. PM or call text three six O -301 twenty five eighty five.
  13. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    oh I don't own a boat It'd be great to install a permanent steel cable across so people can do Tyrolean traverse
  14. crampon lace

    I always wrap the strap around my boot twice and then the extra is just enough to tuck under the boot lace. I would imagine if it is much longer than that you could trim it and melt the edge so it doesn't fray. Still plenty long if you needed to put them on larger boots or anything.
  15. Denali food planning

    been up Denali twice, and would caution about carrying fewer calories. if it gets cold (say -40' -- not that unusual) you will burn more. if you get a protracted storm at 14k or above, you'll be glad to have more than you "need". because most parties take 2-3 weeks for a summit trip, its nice to have "real" food. for a party of two, we took a 5lb canned ham both trips, and saw quite a bit of bacon with other parties. remember how the boiling temperature of water drops at altitude. rice and macaroni may not cook well at 14000'. we carried a pressure-cooker on both trips to address cooking at altitude, and enjoyed beans & split peas at 17000'. we were very popular with multi-party potlucks -- do be sure to enjoy the potluck scene with European and Asian parties at 14k and 17k. yeah, the pressure-cooker sounds heavy, but in my experience, over the course of a week or two, it saves more than its weight in fuel. go heavy on the no-cook snack foods: fudge was like gold - could trade for pretty much anything more drinks and soups than you think you can possibly use! (and fuel, accordingly) MDs I climb with say most of what passes for altitude sickness is actually dehydration...
  16. Denali food planning

    As others have said, you can eat really well on the West Butt. I definitely took my fair share of dehydrated meals but on those weather or rest days it was nice to cook something good. My biggest recommendation is take a frying pan and lid which you can convert into a makeshift oven. I made pizza, cookies, and biscuits in there not to mention frying all sorts of stuff. Well worth the extra weight. You can't really have too many tortilla shells or cheese in my opinion. Oh and if you can figure out a way to get crackers up to 14k camp without them crumbling you can trade it for just about anything. Last piece of advice is take food you like....duh but just because somebody says x, y, or z is a great food with lots of calories doesn't mean you will like it. Try it at home first, you don't want to cart the weight all the way up to 14k camp only to realize you don't like it. Here is my spreadsheet. Overall I was aiming for 3000-3500 calories. I thought that worked out well for me. Breakfast Lunch Dinner Extra *Also not on the above list was 2 tubes of biscuits, 3 tubes of pringles, cookie dough, and hard candy. **A lot of those dinners were dehydrated as I wasn't going to cook up beans for a chili! The extras soups I mostly made for a hot meal mid day and the puddings I made into hot chocolate drinks either morning or night. ***A "snack bag" was the following all cut up into tiny bit sized squares, mixed together and covered in powdered sugar (made it easy to melt in mouth if frozen, and the chocolate didn't make as much of a mess if left in the sun.) 1 of each: Cliff bar, protein bar, Milky Way, Snickers, and granola bar.
  17. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I drove through gorge last Sunday and nothing appeared to be climbable. Temps have risen since Sunday so probably no ice.
  18. Race partner needed

    Need a 3rd teammate for The Patrol Race in snoqualmie on Feb 23rd. My friend has bailed due to gear issues. https://www.mountaineers.org/locations-lodges/meany-lodge/event-details/patrol-race I'm an average bc skier in good shape and have a teammate whos super fit and into skimo so if you fit anywhere in or between those two categories and are interested text me! 53o-4I7-tooh-sicks-zeven-zeeroh
  19. Denali 2019

    Hello, My name is Olivier and I live in Quebec, Canada. I was interested to climb Denali this summer (unguided). I am currently looking for a team and I would be available from late May until early July. If you are still looking for partners, let me know and we can discuss it more. I have experience with high altitude climb (6000m+) as well as camping in cold conditions. Good physical shape (distance runner + rock climbing). Basic knowledge in orientation, glacier travel, crevasses. Regards, Olivier
  20. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Howdy, I am coming down to the portland area for the long weekend from Alaska. I have heard its been pretty cold down that way. Was wondering if any ice had formed up in the gorge. Figure its a bit of a long shot looking for a unicorn but worth asking. Thanks
  21. Denali food planning

    I'd say eat like a king. It's a great way to kill time and keep psych. Our dinners were usually some sort of precooked sausage/bratwurst, added to burritos, rice dishes, quesedillas, etc. Bacon for breakfast. Egg beaters. Tortilla pizzas turned out to be a real hit. We spent a week skiing from a camp at the landing strip and 6 days or so climbing and skiing higher up. For 4 guys, our shopping list was (it probably evolved a bit at the grocery store): -Camp Condiments- Butter-4 cups of butter ! Oil- Two small/Plastic Salt-pepper ! Hot Sauce-two bottles one mild ! Sugar-Small Bag ! Mustard Djon ! -Drinks- Coffee- 64oz ! Tea no caffeine- 3 boxes/Mint/Chamomile/Normal ! Tang- 16oz ! Emergency- 1 sleeve 30packets Alpine Cider/Hot Chocolate ! No Cider Whiskey- Normal Beer (a few) -Breakfast (16 Days)- Granola - 5.5 Kilos (8 Days) (Powdered Milk 1KG) Bacon- (4 Days)-Bagels- 16 Bagels (4 Days) Egg Beaters (4 Days + Cheese 16oz) 1 Peanut Butter+ 1 Jelly+ 12 (Bagels 3 days) Hash Browns+ Cheese- 3 bags -Filler Food/Lunches (16 Days)- SNACK PACKS (Salts-Sugars etc) (Personal?) Smoked Almonds, Dried Fruit (Apercots, Banna etc, Figs M&M peanuts) Shot Blocs 20 (Teague/Jason? Whats your snacks like?) ! Roman Noodles- 35 Packages ! Idaho Potatoes- 8 Bags + Tuna 8 Cans ! Chips/pretzels- Cheese- 5x2lbs 10lbs of Cheese (Sharp Cheeder, pepper jack) Salami/meats- 5lbs Soups- Miso Soups- 7 days worth Candy- 50-60% Chocolate Bars x 10, M&M’s ! -Dinners (16 Dinners)- (2 Low Mountain) Burgers- 2 Nights- 8 Jimbo Patties - 8 buns (2 Low, 2 high) Mexican Surprise- 4 Nights- Tortillas 36, 4 packets of 4 Sausages, Frozen Veggies 4 bags (4 Low) Italiano-4 nights- 4 kilo pasta, 4 sauces (200ml) ! (2 High) Salmon with Cous Cous- 2 Nights- 8 salmon packet, 4 boxes- 8 in soups (2 High) Turkey Sausages with Cous Cous- 2 Nights- 2 big Sausages (diced) and 4 boxes, 8 individual soups (2High) Taste Bites with rice -2 night- 8 Bags Tasty Bites, 8 Bags rice !
  22. Denali food planning

    My main recommendation is to really think about how many calories you will need. The camps on the West Buttrash are so close together that the days are very short, even the ones where we made a carry to a high camp and returned were never longer than 5 1/2 hours. We budgeted 5,000 calories per day based on suggestions from a book, which ended up being way too much. We could have easily gone with 3,500 per day. Realize that you will spend more time not climbing than climbing, so a few days your caloric intake will be higher, while most days lower, but I think for me personally, 3,500 per day would have been plenty. With all the down time, cooking became an activity. I made a pretty good risotto from instant rice, chicken soup, freeze dried veggies, cheese, and salami. I would also experiment with the backpacking ovens to make pizza and cinnamon rolls. Bring a fry pan to make pancakes.
  23. Denali food planning

    I am starting to plan out my meals for Denali and looking for assistance. Does anyone have a meal plan from their Denali trip they are willing to share? There are three of us on the team, with no food allergies or restrictions. I have the NOLS cookbook, etc, etc. I am trying to avoid recreating the wheel to by getting other meal plans then using those to create ours. thanks.
  24. ice climbing 2018/2019 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Leavenworth area ass-clammin' update: as per earlier, most classics in the Icicle canyon are now "in". different this year are a number of smears on slabs that in most winters do not form, but this winter have thickened enough to offer possibilities in the Tumwater, Drury looks iffy - enough ice to connect all the way, but lotsa suspicious looking holes/blanks. The Pencil, on the other hand, looks as fat as I've ever seen it (forty years) - go figure. the Drip has nearly touched down, might be "in" for those of you who like free-hanging 'cicles. Comic Book Hero shows enough ice to connect ledges, but is bonier than I've ever attempted... but everyone knows I'm just a crippled up old fart... anyway - plenty of ice in places relatively protected from the current avalanche hazard... come & get it!
  25. [TR] Hope BC - Cruel Pools 02/09/2019

    We were vaguely aware of a walk off climbers' right, it did look somewhat improbable due to the steep canyon sides and bushwacky forest on the horizon... good to hear that it goes, sounds like a viable alternative to finagling rappel anchors and downclimbing.
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