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Hello Climbers, Below is my exact email to the County, Keith D, our USF&W contacts, and a member of the Parks Advisory Board 6:45am-8:10am was my time observing today. I parked along the highway at 6:40am. I could hear a peregrine calling as I walked up the access road from HWY 224. I didn't see anything at the nesting site, but found one atop the favorite tree at 6:45 am. He(?) made the familiar cacking call on and off. I kept looking at the nesting site and didn't see anything until 6:55 when one popped out from behind the block and sat atop. That's when she(?) began to cack. The one in the tree sat quietly until 7:13 when it flew off and headed south. The female continued cacking on and off at the cliff until 7:53 when she left the cliff and flew low and east. I never heard anything in the distance from another peregrine while she was alone at the nesting site. At 7:56 I could see her return from the east to where she sat atop of the block (nesting site) again. I mentioned this last week, but USF&W say that the female may leave the nest for a break, to defecate, or for a food exchange. The latter happened at 8am. As she sat atop the block at around 8am, I could hear another peregrine cacking and approaching from behind me from the south & west. He(?) landed in the tree, but a little lower than before (another normal spot). Upon his landing in the tree the female left the block and flew to the tree. She(?) returned to the cliff and I could see something dark in her talons. She landed above the eyrie/nesting area about 15 feet above and right. She was visibly feeding on something as she tore away with what was at her feet. The male(?) stayed in the tree, and moved up to the top again. My assumption is that we still have eggs, but no chicks yet. I anticipate that we might be having chicks at any time. It is also my assumption, but hoping those with more experience will chime in, that maybe around the chicks being 4-5 weeks old is where we might see more movement at the nest. I anticipate them moving about and coming into view from behind the block and maybe at week 5 them standing atop the block. Thoughts? Thank you for continuing the respect the closure. Kellie 6.55AM - Eyrie.MOV
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for sale FS: Integral Designs eVent Bivy Sack
amockalypsenow replied to ropegoat's topic in The Yard Sale
does it have any yucky old bivy smell? -
Thanks Bill. Also, there is some road work scheduled for the #2060 this summer. Supposed to start in July and only create temporary delays on weekdays. Bigger dips and less potholes, for a while anyway.
- Last week
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best of cc.com TAUNTAUNS - WORTH THE WEIGHT????
olyclimber replied to Cobra_Commander's topic in Spray
We preserve cascadeclimbers.com primarily so this thread continues. Please do your part. -
Backpack no longer available. It has been returned.
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Anyone been up that way recently? Trying to scope out the West face of Sahale for a ski, figured I would see if anyone has been up on that side of the mountain. Thanks!! -Jordan
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Squire Creek Road is clear to the new (as of last year) parking lot. This winter saw further erosion, another cave-in, 20 feet upstream from the one which cut off the old parking lot. It can no longer be driven around. There is a new sign, but nothing blocking the road. Bill Enger
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Hello! My name is Paul and I live in madras just 40 min. North of you. I've always had trouble finding climbing partners for the harder more technical climbs. I've done Rainier twice last year plus tons of volcanoes in ca, wa, and oregon over the last five years. Lots of rock and steep snow. Ive done most all my climbs solo. We should meet up somewhere to talk about future plans and climbs. I'm 36 married with two kids, very fit, not annoying...my email is pauletter95@gmail.com
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I'm interested in shaving a bit of weight off my kit and am wondering if anyone has tried the Patagonia Hybrid sleeping bag. Ideally it would replace my current sleeping bag on everything summer alpine climbing related - a spot in my backpack in case of unplanned bivies, planned bivies, weeklong trips in the bugs. - is it actually warm? - is it durable - can I use it as my main sleeping bag or is it prone to ripping? - is it comfortable (does it breathe or will i be waking up in a pile of condensation/sweat?) Any other reviews / recommendations would be awesome. Thanks!
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I've done some bouldering there in Jul/Aug and it can definitely be hot, but I've been able to send comfortably - as Hans mentioned try going up Icicle Creek, and there are tons of shady, forested areas.
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Thanks for the advice!!! so sad that it will be hot. maybe I should re-route!
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Hey Washington Climbers! I have an open spot in my group for hiking/climbing/camping next week. We are leaving Wednesday first thing in the morning and expecting to camp Wednesday through Saturday (5/30-6/2). I’m hoping to find another experienced climber to join us. Shoot me a msg if you are interested. Please include a short bit about your background in the mountains too.
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Wayne rules, I'd be there with my gimpy knee but live too far away. BUMP! PS, IN OTHER NEWZ, CC GOTS A CALENDER? ! WOOT, MOVIN' UP ! Opps, capslock thing. again
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for sale FS: Women's Montrail Leather Hiking Boots – Size 9
normankirk posted a topic in The Yard Sale
Light mid-weight boot with a sole that can be flexed by hand at the ball of foot. Full leather outer with Chambrelle wicking liner. Vibram sole, scree collar, full rand and tongue gusset. Weigh 2lbs 11 oz. Very lightly used with nearly no wear on the soles. Interior lining looks practically new. Asking $85.00 inclusive of shipping cost. PPFF or please add 4% for the “goods” fee. -
[TR] South Sister - North Face - Ménage à trois 05/22/2018
JasonG replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Oregon Cascades
When you get confirmation, we can put a FA tag on this for posterity! -
[TR] South Sister - North Face - Ménage à trois 05/22/2018
ScaredSilly replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Oregon Cascades
I think the route is a FA - I have sent Jeff Thomas a note to confirm. I believe that because people doing the Three Sisters plus in day run up the North Ridge because it is not technical. The other two couloirs have very short technical sections so they see very few climbers. Also it is a long ways in for a 1000 feet of climbing. As such, I do not think people venture over to that side of the hill. The photos that I have seen (even via Google earth) really do not show that perspective of the face and the gap so it does not really like it would go. -
You generally follow the Scott Paul Trail until the snow gets too deep then go up. I don't remember it being confusing. Esp. if you bring a map on your phone....
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[TR] Mt. Hood - Cooper Spur - Climb and Ski Descent 05/19/2018
nonbasketless replied to AlecE's topic in Oregon Cascades
Welcome, and thx for the unique report! I've always wondered why more folks don't start from Meadows. -
Thanks @JasonG! Looks like road is closed 1 mi from trailhead, which shouldn't be bad on skis. How is the routefinding on the approach down low? Looks like a straight North shot from the Park Butte TH
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The Squak usually has fewer people @Bdubs, and it is a great ski (though I've only skied it from Sherman). I think it is a longer RT, however, and I'm not sure if you can drive to the TH yet?
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[TR] Mt. Hood - Cooper Spur - Climb and Ski Descent 05/19/2018
JasonG replied to AlecE's topic in Oregon Cascades
And you shouldn't stop @AlecE! Thanks for the report, the spur is still on my list (but it had slipped off my radar, thanks for the reminder!) -
[TR] South Sister - North Face - Ménage à trois 05/22/2018
JasonG replied to ScaredSilly's topic in Oregon Cascades
So this isn't in the guidebook because it is poorly known, or you think this is a FA? Either way, well done! And thanks for posting, it's nice to see everyone using the site again for TRs! -
Hoping to ski a Baker route this weekend. Am deciding between the CD and Squak. Any personal thoughts/preferences or notes? Haven't been on the Squak before, and was thinking it might have fewer people this weekend. Would love to hear from someone who has skied it.
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[TR] Mt. Hood - Cooper Spur - Climb and Ski Descent 05/19/2018
AlecE posted a topic in Oregon Cascades
Trip: Mt. Hood - Cooper Spur - Climb and Ski Descent Trip Date: 05/19/2018 Trip Report: I’ve been tossing around the idea of starting to write up trip reports for a while, and finally decided to start. Jake and I had skied together once before, but hadn’t been able to put together a trip for a few months. When the weather and schedules finally aligned, we decided to go for a route we’d been chatting about for a little bit. The forecast looked OK for Saturday AM, but there was another front blowing in later in the day and Sunday was supposed to be worse. We met up for some pre-climb burgers and beer in Government Camp Friday night, and decided to try the approach from Meadows and then crossing the Newton Clark glacier instead of the hike up Tilly Jane. I had been up to ski Wy’east face the weekend before, and figured I couldn’t get lost in the dark since I had my GPS track. We slept at the Meadow’s parking lot, which apparently is closed at night even when the resort is closed. Fortunately, the security guard there let us crash for the night, but not before giving us a radio to use “so that he felt more comfortable”. I think both of us slept with our ice tools nearby. The sky was clear and we were feeling pretty good about our chances with weather the next day. We got a 2:00 AM start and started skinning up the resort. There was still enough coverage that we could skin right from the base, and we made it to the bottom of Cascade in no time. Somewhere after that I decided to take a more “direct” route up instead of hanging a left to go toward Vista ridge. That went well enough until we ended up on a steeper snow slope that quickly became loose boulders mixed with the soft ashy dirt that that makes up Mt. Hood. “I’m pretty sure we’re right near the top of Cascade… somewhere around here”. After some exciting scrambling up the loose dirt and managing to kick down only a few large boulders we got onto vista ridge proper and hiked up to where we were going to cut across the glacier. The snow had frozen pretty well at this elevation, so we decided it would be faster to rope up, put on crampons, and just walk across the glacier. Jake was more than a little excited about his homemade second whippet, AKA a big old ice axe strapped to his second pole with a ski strap. Crevasses have started to open up, but we found a straight line across Newton Clark and stashed the rope and started climbing up onto Cooper Spur proper. By this point it was light enough to see, and clouds were staying pretty low so we had pretty decent visibility. We had great climbing conditions, with firm snow covered in a thin layer of rime. We were feeling pretty good that the snow would soften up enough to ski down in a little while, but would have been comfortable skiing the lower angle part of the route in the current conditions. On the way up, we spotted a group of climbers coming up from the Tilly Jane approach. If you squint you can see them in this photo. By the time we topped out, the weather had fully blown in and the summit was wrapped up in a cloud. We hiked over to the true summit and decided to wait out the weather. We stayed up there for about an hour, and though the sun teased us with little breaks through the clouds we never got the break we were hoping for. Eventually we ran out of optimism for the sun and jokes for other people on the summit (“Wait, this isn’t Rainier?”) and decided to head down. Our plan was to ski Cooper Spur if everything looked good, with a backup plan to ski the south side and cross over the White River glacier. Even though the weather wasn’t great, we decided that worst case we could just downclimb Cooper Spur and that we didn’t really want to do the traverse over the White River glacier. We downclimbed the first three hundred feet or so and took a break in a large platform that had been dug out by some prior party at the steepest part of the whole route. After a bit of discussion if we wanted to downclimb a bit more, Jake responded with, “Well, I’d like to ski some of it at least”. We tested the snow (it hadn’t really softened much, but the rime looked like it would take an edge decently) and decided to go for it. It was a little treacherous transitioning from crampons to skis, but before long we were all locked in and ready to go. The sun still refused to shine, and I got one quick photo before dropping in to the descent. Its always a good idea to have your first turns of the day be the steepest, and so a few slightly puckering jump turns got us warmed up. We picked our way through about 1200 ft of jump turns until the angle cooled down a bit for some more relaxed skiing. We passed the group of climbers from earlier on the way down, who were short-roping their way up with pickets and a running belay. We definitely lost whatever karma points we got for making them a nice booter by raining rime down on them from above. As we passed them one of the climbers asked “Are we through the steep part yet?”, to which the leader of the group gave a chuckle. They were friendly and we let them pass before finishing up the descent. The visibility decreased the lower we got, and we had to ski pretty close together so we didn’t get separated. We skied down off skiiers right of the ridge and tried to find our tracks from earlier. We knew we had some crevasses on this edge of the glacier to navigate around, and our visibility had gotten even worse. Here’s a photo of what it looked like crossing back over the Newton Clark. Fortunately we had our GPS track from the way up, which made it marginally easier to find our way back. Crevasses had a nasty habit of popping up a few yards in front of our skis, which prompted many “Do you remember this one? I think it’s bigger than before”. It took a while, but we eventually found our tracks and found our way to the base of Wy’east face. Of course, once we were out of danger, the weather cleared and we spotted a few skiers coming off Wy’east. Harvested some nice corn on the way through Superbowl and dropped back into the resort through A-zone. Dirty slush back to the car for some Fresh Squeezeds. Overall, great trip. It would have been pretty cool to ski the spur when we could actually see our position, but the snow ended up being decent and we got good turns in. The next day I was biking in Post Canyon and caught a glimpse of Hood. Of course, it was perfectly clear. So it goes. Gear Notes: Crampons, one axe, one tool (didn’t use), one whippet. 30m rope and glacier gear. Approach Notes: kin the resort, cut over the Newton Clark wherever looks best. -
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