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  3. Hello, I am planning a climb up Mt. Hood via the Wy'East route. My fiance and I have climbed several mountains in the PNW, most notably we have made several attempts up Mt. Adams, climbed St. Helens a few times, and South Sister as well. The technical requirements have been minimal, requiring only helmets, ice axes, and crampons. So, I am looking at Wy'East as a route to progress our skills. In a nutshell, I am looking for advice from folks as to what gear is required and what level of expertise is required for the "easiest" variation (cross white glacier and follow ridgeline up to summit) I have read many reports and it seems that depending on which variation you decide, Wy'East can be more technical requiring ice climbing or less technical requiring only glacier travel across White Glacier and then 2 steep pitches (50-60 degrees) requiring a simple snow anchor set-up. I am thinking this route may be too advanced and I might be better off looking for a mentor/climbing partner to take us up rather than learn the required skills on my own. But, any information you can give would help inform my decision. Thanks!
  4. Rack:13 cams $25015 stoppers (nuts) $356 tri cams $502 nut tools $10Ropes:2 very good 60m singles (9.9mm?) $50 each1 set very good doubles 60m X 9.5mm $705 harnesses med to large $15 each6 pairs shoes size 39 - 43 in various conditions (most pretty good) $20 each5 belay devices with biners (tubes and plates) $12 eachapprox 50 carabiners, mixed sizes $7525+ slings and cords $253 chalk bags $5 each best to email conbec@outlook.com or text (425)328-8161
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  6. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Great thread idea, thanks @Doug_Hutchinson!
  7. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    I am preemptively (and prematurely) starting this thread in an attempt to consolidate ice conditions beta here. As the seasonal stoke is building, I have been involved in many offline conversations about the best way to share condition info. My vote is to not reinvent the wheel, and do it here; solely or in addition to any of the numerous (and ephemeral) Facebook forums. Since I am aware that posting to an internet-based forum is way too time consuming for many, next best would be to strongly encourage that you tag your local social media ice posts with #WAice. Last we talked, Kyle M was redesigning the internet to create a better ice conditions mousetrap. Even if he dazzles and amazes again, this can be the repository for unpolished beta that he later shines and geocodes up. To not be a complete tease, here is all I got now: Mt Baker seracs and the lower flows on Heliotrope have received a decent amount of activity in late Oct/early Nov. I don't think Cosley Houston fully formed and was climbed before the snow switch flipped ON the second week of November and access become challenging, but the early season skiing has been the best in years. My #WAice season began on Nov 13. Tom and I were hoping for some semi-alpine ice in the WA Pass zone but the deep, unconsolidated snow pack (21" fell the day we were there) meant cross country travel, even with skis, was nearly impossible and the pass closed for the season (very early) a few hours after we left. The consolation was getting the rust off on the practice roadcut ice along the highway below the Liberty Bell group: This morning (Happy Thanksgiving), I skied around Alpental Valley (can you say concrete) and as expected there was nothing/nada, nary a drip or drab to be seen. The snow is deep but the temps have been consistently too warm to get anything more than a few icicles forming. Based on the long term forecasts, it will be several weeks before any pick dulling may be possible in the Alpental zone. Mazama is reportedly all dry now too. It is still very early. Happy ice hunting.
  8. Nicely done!! Thanks for posting; its interesting to find out what you-all are up to!
  9. [TR] Diobsud Buttes - Standard 04/16/2020

    Good one, ya gotta have a locked gate adventure every now and the .
  10. Mt. Hood Climbing Partner in November

    this thread is a decade old ill climb hood any time w any of you fkrs tho, hmu
  11. ill probably climb w u

    havent climbed for a while, cept fer some hood ss runs, but im tryin to get back to it i have little job and no commitments nor responsibilities i will climb on almost no notice - in fact, i will pretty much only climb w no notice because if we try to schedule a climb for days or weeks out theres almost no chance ill actually show up.. but if youre like "gorgeous man, lets climb tonight" ill just get in my truck right then and go so i dont forget i have long n skinny ropes but no pro yet.. i dont have much gear cuz my ex gf set it all on fire.. buying all new shit tho so.. but i have personsl gear.. helmet pack tools pons harness clothes n shit.. will be picking up screws pickets slings n pins n shit over the course of the winter neways... i always have fuckloads of weed too.. nobody ive been climbing w has ever died while climbing w me ill climb whatever, w whoever.. but im usually bangin around portland, so ... cascades.. not opposed to hopping on a plane tho - for real tho text - 971-334-6203 / email - carson.williambenjamin@gmail.com
  12. One big magazine

  13. "Intravenous"- someone should do a direct finish For Aint over motherfuckers I can loan warthogs to whoever wants to repeat that rig. Big prize in the range should be NE face of Triumph
  14. Awesome, just awesome, thanks for sharing on cc.com!
  15. No it's not okay. Maybe for someone else though :-)
  16. Hi everyone! Thanks for giving me your attention I am currently doing a study on technology with a focus on outdoor bouldering apps. If you could take 5 minutes to take my survey I would be extremely extremely grateful, as you will be helping me complete my project, receive a better mark and perhaps get a chance to reflect on what kind of app we actually need when climbing outdoors. I'd like to thank you in advance and I wish everyone a great day! Here is the link: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/K8ZSDT7
  17. Good shape, inners not packed out, toe area widened a bit. Removable tongue stiffener. No insoles (keeping my spendy insoles). Stay frosty! Mark
  18. Definitely skiable, maybe a few raps to get past the steeper upper section. Dust over ice, and just bare ice in spots, if that's ok for you!
  19. sold! Jackets

    Winter Jackets Orange Arc'teryx Atom LT size med $75 In great shape, minimal use. There’s is some light discoloration around the cuffs. Green Black Diamond soft shell size med $25 Almost like new, I found one small stain (shown in pic) I used it a few times for skiing. Blue Mountain Hardware hybrid fleece size med $25 Like new Located Lake Oswego Please text 971-645-9112
  20. Originally purchased to check sizing for my wife and couldn't return them. Arcteryx Procline Carbon AR boots in sizes 23.5 and 24.5. They are still totally new, still in the box with tags. This is by far the lowest price I could find on the internet, I don't want these in my closet anymore!! $400 - Pickup in Seattle 98101 +$40 - shipped anywhere in the USA
  21. [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully Solo 11/21/2020

    Thanks! We got a late start and they hadn't gotten good rest the night before, so when we got to the shrund they didn't think that they'd be able to move fast enough to get up before dark. Especially with the time it would take to belay the steps. I tested the snow up to the first step and it was perfect and I was moving fast through it, so decided to commit.
  22. One big magazine

    Subscribe to Alpinist!
  23. One big magazine

    Agreed! I get all my important information about titanium sporks on cc.com....
  24. One big magazine

    We've seen the future, and it's a single publication called "Series of Aspirational Outdoor Lifestyle Product Ads With an Editorial Viewpoint." Seriously though, I think that declining circulations and ad revenue will force publishers to consolidate lots of titles under one roof and eliminate as many redundant admin-type jobs as possible. Don't think it'd ever rise to a level of consolidation that would constitute an actual monopoly (not sure anyone would notice or care if it did) but when all is said and done I think there'll probably be way fewer titles operating as part of a handful of conglomerates. I can't bring myself to crack open the cover of any magazine that has been integrated into the intersectional borg and published articles like "It's Time to Confront the Latent White Heteronormativity Embedded in the Titanium Spork" so the number of outdoor magazines that I have any interest in reading is rapidly declining to zero.
  25. [TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully Solo 11/21/2020

    Nice work, thanks for the report. Why did your partners bail? Continuing solo is hard core!
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