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This is an odd take to me. Most of the entire country is full of roads and management. N. Cascades has always been presented to me as a "backpackers National Park", which frankly to me makes it one of the few national parks that I would consider visiting. The rest are overrun with humanity, which I guess is great b/c it keeps them away from other amazing natural areas like the Wind River range in WY. Interesting though, bc Olympic NP, while having more services, is similarly remote with huge areas of little infrastructure or people. WA is lucky to have two such parks, IMO.

If you can walk up there without waking up the choss, you also might as well also tag the bonus unclimbed gendarme, climber's left of the Rooster Comb

Oh, the toe looks just fine, just walk down there and go up.

Thanks! I had one. It was super hot on this climb so I was not always wearing it, guess it didn’t make the video.

As of our trip on Tuesday, air quality in the Triumph zone was still good!

We contemplated checking out the toe, but it looked very steep as far as we could see from the east and we were running out of daylight. It would remove some of the toughest route finding and technical climbing on the route, but who knows what it would add. Maybe some canyoneering around that waterfall at the base. Damn am I curious what it looks like from below. The whole ridge is ripe for untouched pinnacles and variations on Wayne’s original line. We were focused on following his steps as closely as we could, so the venture to the toe seemed like an over-reach for us. However, I see the beauty in connecting his line to the toe. It may just add a thousand feet of vertical bushwhacking and an even more gnarly approach. But hey, some people are still into that kind of adventure!! Thanks for the kudos, John. I’ll say it again, what an incredible ridge!!

Oh you and Rolf, whatever, you purists! I like the BETA OVERLOAD because I got sick and tired of coming home having accomplished nothing except beating myself to a pulp. (Hence the "Hey, got a GPS point for that creek crossing?" emails -- thanks, by the way!)

Bunch more roads and trails closed off of HWY 20 including Cascade River Rd: News Release: Cascade River Road Closure Park officials have closed Cascade River Road, Cascade Pass Trail, and Johannesburg Cross-country Zone to manage visitor safety due to the nearby Pincer Two Fire on the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. Cascade River Road is closed at MP 8 (Marble Creek) and there is no access to North Cascades National Park beyond the closure. There are multiple fires in and near North Cascades National Park Service Complex. Park closure information can be found on the park’s Fire Closures page. For more information and the full news release visit https://ow.ly/QzVm50SIg6H.

Thanks @JonParker! I missed this.... Yes, agree on all of the above. I think it is a fun and straightforward class 3 ramble @Hartselle Mountain Hikers, but then again, I'm biased. And, you may have guessed, I like to keep the beta to an absolute minimum to keep the spirit of North Cascades adventure alive. It is a lot of fun to have the route unfold before you, hunting and guessing like those who came before. Or, at least I find that part fun. Good luck and please post a TR with your thoughts on the route. It is fun to see how folks experience this corner of the Cascades.

Not gonna speak for Jason, but I checked this out a couple years ago. It’s pretty straightforward. You’ll want to leave the trail and start uphill about 200-300 feet south of the creek by Luna camp. Avoid minor cliff bands and just stick to the shoulder, which gradually becomes more pronounced as you ascend. On our way up we were initially under a canopy of giant ferns taller than we. This was fun but we found the more efficient path on the way back a little further from the creek.

This is fucking money!! Congrats.

FYI the highway is closed again as of 4pm on 7/21. I'd expect this closure to last a lot longer since the fire is down close to the highway now.

Thanks for posting here! What you say in the video is exactly what I’ve been trying to tell people: this site lets you tell the whole story.

This kind of storytelling is why I fight to keep this place going. I would love to read the poem. thank you

Right. The whole shebang, nearly 4000 vf from Goodell toe to Fury top.

You mean start from the very base at Goodell? It could also be straightened out on the Ridgeline. Towers 3,4 and the pole could both go direct if your names were Honnold, and Caldwell.

Gray haired local here. Made a similar mistake several years ago on my first attempt of the Mythic Wall and aimed for the good belay off of the ground way far left. Ended up committing and climbing 4 pitches in the neighborhood of your route. Called it "Four-long and Forlorn". Amazing how much choss there is in on that wall considering the relative quality of the Mythic Wall Route. Cheers Fellows! Matt

Hard hats off for nailing the upper Mongo, and your new route on The Pole of Remoteness. It’s always a head-shaker to revisit that Wayne pioneered this solo. The Full Mongo awaits.

Great video!. Was great getting to see a lot of that terrain again other than photo. Genuinely curious, what's with the no helmet?

Variety of chocks,, $3 each (11) small wired chocks ()) Nylon webbed chocks, 3/4" to 3"

SMC and REI. I have 20 total.

Finished the video for this as well:

HWY 20 re-opened last night. Could close without notice so plan accordingly.

Descending the Coleman route the afternoon of July 18, we found an ice tool in the snow. Let me know if it's yours.

Love it! Thank you for sharing!