genepires

my bet is something on Mt Baring is the next to go. or something on the black buttes/colfax/Lincoln area.

is UW rock still standing or did it get crushed for the new highway?

cray cray https://globalnews.ca/video/5273224/landslide-at-joffre-peak-no-injuries-or-fatalities-reported/?fbclid=IwAR0jQ9WmgT0ht1tY2kdxhDy72ALeZ-wSjOvnMDyG83ei1eknmZkLg_l16dM

don't know if you did it already but maybe try turns all year site. I am assuming it fell off a skiers pack.

yes about the icicle. just looking for a mid way place between indoors and granite. I always felt the exits as a outside gym place. Much like face climbing at the feathers. we should get out this year.

thanks Rad! hopefully we can graduate to more pleasant granite routes.

I got Kurt's book. Was thinking about sun vista and headlight among others but just curious about the walk to the top. I think my boy likes to climb without a lot of crowds around. Yes the exits are not the place for solitude.

I looked at gritscone and I don't think it is very kid friendly. Hell, it doesn't look adult friendly either. thanks though.

Time for my young prodigy to graduate from indoor rock gym to real rock. Looking at the guidebook for exit 38 shows lots of routes that would be a good transition from indoor gym to outdoor gym-like environs. Would like to start on 5.6's and work upwards for him. Found lots of places on the north side of exit 38. Chances are that it would be just him and me so obviously I need to walk around to setup a TR. He is only 80 some odd pounds and I don't want to poison his life with a "dropped his dad and killed him situation". any good easy crags with easy walk around for TR setups? Hopefully the holds are not too exit 38 wierd like at we did it rock. thanks folks!

the few times I used leather climbing boots for splitboarding, I got pretty annoying pain on the calf muscle. the highbakcs are higher that the boot and would dig in on heal side turns. Did you find a really low highback (a lowback?) to not have this problem? I didn't know that they could be found that low. I shoved a small patch of foam from a ground pad back there but did not really that great.

why bring anything at all? most times you can just do them by walking in. the two routes listed has a standard bootpack going in to lake which is a pain to ski anyway, often in in late winter. I have seen alot of people packing skiis up to the lake. so for colchuck and dragontail, you would have 30 minutes of useful snow slide time before getting on route. The reality is that the snow is so deep that you need floatation, you really need to reconsider the route choice due to avi concerns. chair and baker often have bootpacks approaches also. Being able to walk on the approach without flotation is a good sign that the actual climbing route is in good condition. Things usually get more difficult the higher you go. If you are wallowing down low, expect more wallowing up high. steep wallowing is a good way to die.

put me on the that list.

that is funny cause I thought I was the last person to use leashes. you must have saw my one attempt at it. I did try to climb a pretty steep line on TR and leash less. Pumped out, fell with rope stretch and left those things still implanted in the ice. Fun for training on a woody but for the real deal, I use the crutches of leashes. I am with you on the functionality of extended rappels. I just felt that it is another tool that gets used when needed and not when not needed. for example, I would not extend a rappel for a lightweight someone who had long flowing hair. For a pre rig rappel, makes total sense.

to be honest, it has been a while since I was a AMGA trained guide so my observation is a decade old and could have changed since. But if you really have fears that your rappel setup could mechanically fail mid rappel, then by all means attach your backup to a full strength belay loop. The weakest links in the rappel linkages is the anchor, rope and the brake hand. Looking at all the rappel accidents, never has the rappel biner or device broke. Anchors fail, ropes get cut or control of brake is lost. Having taken a rock to the chest mid rappel and almost passing out, my main concern is to prevent the loss of the brake strand. The leg loop is perfectly acceptable for accomplishing this task. And since I rarely extend my rappel device, there is no way to use the autoblock on the belay loop.. but whatever, if you feel there is only one way to perform a task, then flame on.

but the bigger issue than brake backups is TIE KNOTS IN END OF ROPES! (speaking from personal experience) That is what kills people.

pros and cons to everything right? pro for having friction hitch above device: having the friction hitch above "may help" (or may not) if you rap off the ends of the rope. having the friction hitch below will not help with rap off end of rope con for friction hitch above: seems like always fighting the hitch when it grabs while descending. cavers seem to use the friction device above more often and use those peztl mech grabbers often to be able to release when it grabs. but they like to carry extra gear. But going by the standard guides method of descending. Girth hitch sling to harness (either belay loop or waist/leg loop) with knot and belay device like Dan above mentions. Small prussik loop girth attached to leg loop and then friction hitch of some kind to brake strands. The benefit of going to leg loop is that the hitch is far away from device. if the device hits the hitch, then it will not work. so it all depends on how long your prussik loop is. if it is real short, then you can go to belay loop I find it interesting that people think the leg loop is not strong enough for the job of being a brake backup. lets do a test. which can hold more weight; a leg loop or a firemans backup? (serve same purpose)

to add to the gripped article mentioned above, I had a NED moment due to not fully doubling back the harness. On a multipitch, I had to sit on some gear during the first pitch of the climb and at the top belay anchor, noticed that my harness was not doubled back. I guess that body weight was low enough for the harness to stay on but I know that a leader fall would have been death. If it would have been a standard craggin situation, it may have failed on being lowered also.

" putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner " the loop for autoblock does not need to be anywhere as strong as a belay loop. We are talking about the small prussik that backs up the brake hand I assume. Basically it needs to be as strong as your hand grip is. the autoblock replaces the hand as a way to apply braking force to the rappel device. I wish my grip strength was in excess of 15Kn pulling force.

isn't the only difference between speed buckle and the buckle you speak of that the end of the webbing is sewn over to prevent it from being unthreaded? KNIFE woudl fix that.

if that does not pan out, try misty mountain harness. I heard they can customize for a reasonable price.

for the middle of summer, I use a sleeping bag liner. One of those down filled 50F bags that is supposed to go inside another bag to boost the temp rating. I also sleep warm and just wear clothes inside. Makes the mornings less hectic if already dressed for day anyways. Fine for even places like rainier in july and is so light and takes up very little space. Consider specific bags if you are a belly or side sleeper. seems like most mummy bags are for back sleepers. I had to buy a FF 20F bag that has a wide top section to allow for arm position while stomach sleeping. Can't remember the name but it seems like more brands are creating such bags now. well worth the extra price for a bag that fits your sleeping sttyle.

we were able to buy/download the movie to our PC and watch it for $10 plus some tax. well worth the money.

some other guy selling mammut parka on cc.com also.

I suspect that layer was the result of that November snow followed by weeks of sun and freeze thaw. Not that unusual for the first couple of snow events to slide on it. A month of dumps will bury it real good. But don’t let my human factor heuristic kill anyone

I hope you find someone willing to show you around. I suspect most people are uneasy being a mentor but are fine with requests for climbing partners with you being honest about your skills. If you could change your title to just looking for climbing partner and drop the mentor part, you may get more hits. maybe I am wrong and you get a good mentor. FWIW, I did an electrical apprenticeship so my expectations for mentorship may be much more involved than you are expecting. A lot of people got there start using local climbing clubs and when the experience level is adequate, stick with the friendships developed there and to casual internet hookups like this site. But I am old-ish and started in pre internet days so maybe that tract is unnecessary.