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CascadeClimber

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CascadeClimber last won the day on January 11

CascadeClimber had the most liked content!

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About CascadeClimber

  • Rank
    old hand
  • Birthday 10/14/1918

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  • Homepage
    www.cascadeclimber.com
  • Occupation
    Consultant
  • Location
    200' below the top of Charity
  1. The rock is compact and polished; not much in the way of handholds or gear. The first half of the climbing, up into the basin, did not feel highly threatened to me; there is a lot of lower angle rock between the snouts of the glaciers and that area. The upper slab section, which we found entirely unprotectable and lies in the fall line of the right-hand glacier, might be avoidable climber's right (looking at some other photos), but you do still have to pass the fall line of that right ice cliff. Doing so on class 2 or 3 would be faster though, than the 4/5 we encountered. You'd have to cross the larger, right-hand outflow twice though, which could be an issue depending on volume. It's not a small amount of water, even in later summer. Almost 12 years later and I still get excited thinking about this route; having gazed up at it, studied it in photos, and dreamed about what it might be like in those upper basins for years. getting our asses handed to us the first try. Getting more and more hopeful as each successive obstacle was passed on the second try. So, so many rappels and so much downclimbing in the dark down the east ridge after getting the to summit. Shivering with one sleeping bag and a space blanket just below the CJ Col after 24 hours on the move, wondering if the predicted rain was going to soak us, and the glorious acres of blueberries we found for breakfast the next morning. There is an experience doing a new route that is entirely unlike repeating; no tat, no cairns, never looking at a route description or trying to figure out if I'm 'going the right way'. Look up, choose the way that looks like it goes, then go find out if it really does. Beautiful simplicity and true adventure.
  2. Dogs and Mt St Helens

    Rules are clear: No dogs. But it seems like just about everywhere else, the rules aren't enforced, which is why trails are strewn with shit-bags and I've been charged, barked at, and otherwise threatened more times than I can count, and bitten once by a dog whose idiot owner's first response was "Sorry, he's friendly". Hot tip: Your dog biting someone is the very fucking definition of NOT FRIENDLY. So, so, so done with inconsiderate asshole dog owners who make up all sorts of fantastical stories to justify being lazy, at the expense of everyone else on the trails.
  3. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    With the topic of the post it's relevant; it's, in my opinion, a significant part of the explanation of what happened to the quality content here. I'm not saying you weren't in a difficult position. And, that sort of thing went on, in the open for all to see (and in PMs) for a long, long time. So people left. Myself included. As noted in this very thread, some people thought it was 'normal' and/or 'entertaining'. It wasn't.
  4. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Here's a sample, Jon. I'm far from the only one who was on the receiving end of this sort of thing. "Topic: I have nothing but pain for you Did you uh like wanna get your fucking ass kicked? Feel free to give me a call 206/235-9497 or drop by sometime. I'd be happy to come over there though and fuck you up face to face smart guy/girl (makes no bones to me-you wanna mess with the best then live up to it). I'll be the 230lb ex ranger motherfucker looking pissed and highly qualified to thump your ass. Otherwise shut the fuck up and try to go head to head with someone in the minor leagues like you shitbird. GOT IT!"
  5. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    I guess it was fine if you wanted to be a dick (or worse) to people without much personal consequence, but as far as actual climbing/mountaineering content being added to this site...it was the early death knell. I had more than one threat of physical violence toward me *and my family* leveled by people here, including one that involved "settling our differences with ice axes". Doesn't take much of that to turn a place into the equivalent of the part of town where the police won't go and it is most certainly one of the reason I stopped adding content here.
  6. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Several did not. The most recent seems to have, yes. Thank you.
  7. I know that Jens' and my Formidable route has at least one repeat. Has anyone repeated or heard of the C-K being repeated?
  8. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress Solo 08/01/2018

    The Esteemed Mr. Sharp omitted the best quote from that trip (as lifted from his previous "My Kingdom for a Cell Phone" TR. Bob Davis reported that he'd rather be "dipped in shit" that go back up on J-berg. Though the Doug's Direct route has taken some of the difficulty off, it remains a difficult summit, with no easy way up or down. Standing atop it looking at the tourists milling about at Cascade Pass, knowing that hours and hours of technical descent and then a very long hike lay between you and that lot that seems so close is a unique experience in the Cascades, at least for me.
  9. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Man, if you think it's dropped off in the last two years you missed the heyday here. In mid to late 2000s this place was a madhouse. My two cents on the decline: 1. At the peak the trolls ruled the show here. A few people with many logins went as far as physically threatening people via PM. A lot of valuable contributors left and, apparently, most haven't come back. There was a contingent back then who predicted as much, begging for better moderation. Ad impressions and the trolls won out. 2. Aforementioned social media. 3. I really don't think most people who spend a lot of time in the mountains are extroverts given to sharing their experiences. When this and other forums were new there was a novelty factor that probably drew out some folks who have since gone quiet. The increased crowding in the mountains hasn't encouraged me to post about the cool, unpeopled places I've gone. Before this site existing places like the north side of Stuart via Mountaineer Creek, Johannesberg, Drury Falls, the Pickets, etc. were rarely visited. Now a person who seeks solitude has to go elsewhere and, at least in my case, is reticent to publicize anywhere worth going that isn't overrun. On a lesser note, I went four of five years where I the software would log me out every time I changed pages. That made posting a PITA that wasn't worth the effort.
  10. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I believe this often starts from "That's all there is, so go". I've been in on those quite a few times. When what there is (or isn't) is all there is, accepting the situation and making a thoughtful choice is all there is to do. And, I've seen that morph into "good enough" when there was more to be had. IMO, a good climbing partner will call that out on me and be thankful when I did the same for them. Complacency kills.
  11. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    My experience with reports and pits are that they are far, far too generalized to helpfully predict conditions that are highly localized. You can dig a pit that is entirely solid, go 50 feet around a corner and get the chop from a wind slab. In some ways, people with a ton of education about avy risk assessment seem to get into more trouble because they become over-confident about the accuracy of what I see as severely flawed assessment procedures.
  12. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    FWIW, I don't have any metrics on my personal web site and I don't have any ads. Never have. Primarily for two reasons: To resist the temptation to make it about popularity and to keep my motivations more grounded (i.e. not about money). I've been asked to write for money and declined, for the same reasons. I've seen Ed Viesturs talk. I walked out thinking, "That was boring". And compared to someone like Twight, what Ed has to say decidedly lacks drama. If shit looked or felt bad, he went home. And you're right: That crew tends to live longer in more obscurity. Is there a right or wrong option? Not in my opinion. Just choices with consequences. Jberg and Willis Wall. I'd looked up at both for a long, long time. Started dreaming of Willis when I read about the "Traverse of Angels" in Beckey. It sounded like a place I wanted to be. The Jberg route...to spend that much time moving across terrain entirely untraveled by other humans. After just three of them, I can so easily see why Fred became obsessed with FAs; it's as different an experience for me as gym vs. alpine climbing. No guide book, no topo, no route description, no looking for tat or cairns or rap stations or anything. An entire category of distraction from just being in the place in the moment falls away. My ego did revel in the sharing of what we'd done, yes. And, I don't recall ever thinking "I can't wait to get back and tell people about this" when on-route. "Spraying" wasn't a motivation that I recall. Before JBerg I told exactly one other climber what we were trying, in case we went overdue. Same with WW. And, whether it's a Grade V alpine FA, or an off-trail Alpine Lakes traverse, or a day of off-trail scrambling/canyoneering in the Valley of Fire (all of which I've done with thorough enjoyment), there is just something, for me, more pure and magical about being in a much-less peopled place; finding my own way, and making it up as we go with a fantastic partner.
  13. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Not usually. However, one of the most open, honest, and complete books I've read about climbing is Jim Wickwire's, "Addicted to Danger".
  14. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    Actually, I don't believe that's true. Time spent in areas of high objective danger is a key metric. I've soloed the North Face of Chair in less than 20 minutes and seen people take many hours on it. I accept one form of risk- that a technical error on my part will lead to a large fall, to reduce another form: Objective. Relative to Jberg, Jens and I free soloed the slabs in about 20 minutes. Roping up and pitching them out would have taken hours. As it turned out, that time difference would have been very critical. We had to skills to safely solo and the time we saved doing so likely saved us. More recently, a slow guided group, including a friend of mine, on Liberty Ridge was forced to make camp on the ridge. They were all wiped out by avalanche during the night. More skilled climbers simul or free-soloing would have made Liberty Cap that day and not been on the ridge when the avalanche happened. That isn't to say that the going fast in one place couldn't put you in the wrong place at the wrong time later. If you've been up the DC you've climbed under active seracs. As mentioned, there's a people-trench there and most folks assume incorrectly that lots of people going somewhere means it's safe. I have always felt uncomfortable under that icefall and rest before entering the shooting gallery on the way up and routinely jog past it on the way down. Ignoring objective danger is a recipe for trouble. Making considered choices about it, even if they are contrary to what other people would do, is my preference.
  15. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    It's a good discussion. Very good. I'm not at all suggesting otherwise. Just that it's very damn easy to armchair judge the risk choices of others without all the information and/or from the perspective on one's own abilities. And I'm not immune from it- sure seems like maybe Dean Potter and Dan Osman had adrenaline habits that led to increasingly risky behavior with narrower and narrower margins for error. If someone can go solo Astroman, which I couldn't aid up, all the power to them. It would be insane and too risky for me, and entirely within their abilities and risk margin. And in terms of the 'not being in a hurry to get out' thing you mentioned, I think it's helpful to evaluate one's motivations. If this kind of behavior becomes "need" and "have to" it's a pointer to an addiction that can easily overrule/cloud other aspects of risk evaluation.
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