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CascadeClimber

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CascadeClimber last won the day on January 22

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About CascadeClimber

  • Rank
    old hand
  • Birthday 10/14/1918

Converted

  • Homepage
    www.cascadeclimber.com
  • Occupation
    Consultant
  • Location
    200' below the top of Charity
  1. Weather speculation

    This morning it's 33F at Snoqualmie Pass and 35F at Paradise. Muir is offline again. The good news is that this helps consolidate the snowpack so it's more stable and lasts longer in the spring.
  2. Weather speculation

    High temp at Muir over the last seven days is 17F, and 36F at Paradise. So it doesn't seem to be a thick isothermal layer, though it's also not quite at raw adiabatic levels, either. I saw a report of bad crust at Snow Lake Divide, but the passes tend to be anomalous. https://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/paradise/now/ https://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/campmuir/now/
  3. Dee Molenaar has passed at 101

    Godspeed and heavenly first ascents with Fred to Dee Molenaar, who has departed the Cascades at 101. Dee and Fred may have known more about the Cascades than everyone alive combined. I feel fortunate to have lived while they did, and was inspired by their adventures, writings, and antics. https://www.seattlepi.com/local/politics/article/Dee-Molenaar-RIP-at-101-and-The-Brotherhood-of-14993166.php
  4. Wow, I cannot comprehend how long it's been since my two trips in there. http://www.cascadeclimber.com/beggars_can't_be_choosers.htm http://www.cascadeclimber.com/khusia.htm Like so many Washington ice areas, it's ephemeral and the desired snow cover for the approach makes for snow-covered climbs. What I most remember is coming into the upper basin and not understanding how big the routes are; there's little scale reference and many of the potential lines are 3+ pitches, though it doesn't look like that at first.
  5. The rock is compact and polished; not much in the way of handholds or gear. The first half of the climbing, up into the basin, did not feel highly threatened to me; there is a lot of lower angle rock between the snouts of the glaciers and that area. The upper slab section, which we found entirely unprotectable and lies in the fall line of the right-hand glacier, might be avoidable climber's right (looking at some other photos), but you do still have to pass the fall line of that right ice cliff. Doing so on class 2 or 3 would be faster though, than the 4/5 we encountered. You'd have to cross the larger, right-hand outflow twice though, which could be an issue depending on volume. It's not a small amount of water, even in later summer. Almost 12 years later and I still get excited thinking about this route; having gazed up at it, studied it in photos, and dreamed about what it might be like in those upper basins for years. getting our asses handed to us the first try. Getting more and more hopeful as each successive obstacle was passed on the second try. So, so many rappels and so much downclimbing in the dark down the east ridge after getting the to summit. Shivering with one sleeping bag and a space blanket just below the CJ Col after 24 hours on the move, wondering if the predicted rain was going to soak us, and the glorious acres of blueberries we found for breakfast the next morning. There is an experience doing a new route that is entirely unlike repeating; no tat, no cairns, never looking at a route description or trying to figure out if I'm 'going the right way'. Look up, choose the way that looks like it goes, then go find out if it really does. Beautiful simplicity and true adventure.
  6. Dogs and Mt St Helens

    Rules are clear: No dogs. But it seems like just about everywhere else, the rules aren't enforced, which is why trails are strewn with shit-bags and I've been charged, barked at, and otherwise threatened more times than I can count, and bitten once by a dog whose idiot owner's first response was "Sorry, he's friendly". Hot tip: Your dog biting someone is the very fucking definition of NOT FRIENDLY. So, so, so done with inconsiderate asshole dog owners who make up all sorts of fantastical stories to justify being lazy, at the expense of everyone else on the trails.
  7. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    With the topic of the post it's relevant; it's, in my opinion, a significant part of the explanation of what happened to the quality content here. I'm not saying you weren't in a difficult position. And, that sort of thing went on, in the open for all to see (and in PMs) for a long, long time. So people left. Myself included. As noted in this very thread, some people thought it was 'normal' and/or 'entertaining'. It wasn't.
  8. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Here's a sample, Jon. I'm far from the only one who was on the receiving end of this sort of thing. "Topic: I have nothing but pain for you Did you uh like wanna get your fucking ass kicked? Feel free to give me a call 206/235-9497 or drop by sometime. I'd be happy to come over there though and fuck you up face to face smart guy/girl (makes no bones to me-you wanna mess with the best then live up to it). I'll be the 230lb ex ranger motherfucker looking pissed and highly qualified to thump your ass. Otherwise shut the fuck up and try to go head to head with someone in the minor leagues like you shitbird. GOT IT!"
  9. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    I guess it was fine if you wanted to be a dick (or worse) to people without much personal consequence, but as far as actual climbing/mountaineering content being added to this site...it was the early death knell. I had more than one threat of physical violence toward me *and my family* leveled by people here, including one that involved "settling our differences with ice axes". Doesn't take much of that to turn a place into the equivalent of the part of town where the police won't go and it is most certainly one of the reason I stopped adding content here.
  10. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Several did not. The most recent seems to have, yes. Thank you.
  11. I know that Jens' and my Formidable route has at least one repeat. Has anyone repeated or heard of the C-K being repeated?
  12. [TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress Solo 08/01/2018

    The Esteemed Mr. Sharp omitted the best quote from that trip (as lifted from his previous "My Kingdom for a Cell Phone" TR. Bob Davis reported that he'd rather be "dipped in shit" that go back up on J-berg. Though the Doug's Direct route has taken some of the difficulty off, it remains a difficult summit, with no easy way up or down. Standing atop it looking at the tourists milling about at Cascade Pass, knowing that hours and hours of technical descent and then a very long hike lay between you and that lot that seems so close is a unique experience in the Cascades, at least for me.
  13. CC.com Traffic Decrease?

    Man, if you think it's dropped off in the last two years you missed the heyday here. In mid to late 2000s this place was a madhouse. My two cents on the decline: 1. At the peak the trolls ruled the show here. A few people with many logins went as far as physically threatening people via PM. A lot of valuable contributors left and, apparently, most haven't come back. There was a contingent back then who predicted as much, begging for better moderation. Ad impressions and the trolls won out. 2. Aforementioned social media. 3. I really don't think most people who spend a lot of time in the mountains are extroverts given to sharing their experiences. When this and other forums were new there was a novelty factor that probably drew out some folks who have since gone quiet. The increased crowding in the mountains hasn't encouraged me to post about the cool, unpeopled places I've gone. Before this site existing places like the north side of Stuart via Mountaineer Creek, Johannesberg, Drury Falls, the Pickets, etc. were rarely visited. Now a person who seeks solitude has to go elsewhere and, at least in my case, is reticent to publicize anywhere worth going that isn't overrun. On a lesser note, I went four of five years where I the software would log me out every time I changed pages. That made posting a PITA that wasn't worth the effort.
  14. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    I believe this often starts from "That's all there is, so go". I've been in on those quite a few times. When what there is (or isn't) is all there is, accepting the situation and making a thoughtful choice is all there is to do. And, I've seen that morph into "good enough" when there was more to be had. IMO, a good climbing partner will call that out on me and be thankful when I did the same for them. Complacency kills.
  15. Applauding risk acceptance beyond your own limits

    My experience with reports and pits are that they are far, far too generalized to helpfully predict conditions that are highly localized. You can dig a pit that is entirely solid, go 50 feet around a corner and get the chop from a wind slab. In some ways, people with a ton of education about avy risk assessment seem to get into more trouble because they become over-confident about the accuracy of what I see as severely flawed assessment procedures.
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