genepires

reply to Don's message "petzl is creating a demand for a peice of equipment that is not usefull for most climbers" Was someone creating a demand when tubular belay devices came out? Figure eight devices where working fine right? Gear and techniques evolve with time. Belaying off the anchor is a smart thing for multiple reasons such as it allows one to perform multiple tasks while safely belaying. (thereby moving faster) Of course this device is not good for anchors that are less than ideal (like snow anchors) where having the belayer's stance part of the anchor adds strength.

Tom Hargis taught me a trick to deal with releasing the load from a loaded gi-gi which should work for the reverso as well. The other answers given calls for releasing the weight off the bar biber. (the rope goes around this biner in both the reverso and gi-gi) Tom showed me a way to lever the device to make it horizontal, then it becomes a stitch plate and you can lower like normal. Take a sling and girth hitch it to the lower hole on the gi-gi. For the reverso, girth hitch longer metal loop. (the one clipped into the biner when rappelling) Take the sling and pass it up through a biner in the anchor somewhere and clip it into the harness. Lean back and lever the device horizontal. Keep a grip on the brake hand and lower. I've done it on the gi-gi but not the reverso. To feed out slack, I've moved the device horizontal by hand to pull out as much slack as needed. These devices have an advantage if ever you need to lift a partner up a climb. I've had to do this but I doubt that you all will ever need to do this. Like rescue skills, a good thing to know. While belaying off the anchor with either the gi-gi or reverso, put small prussick on loaded end of rope. Put a biner on this prussik and it will become a weak pulley. Take unloaded end of rope and clip it in that pulley biner. Now you have a inefficient 3:1 pulley system. (probably a 2.5:1) It works good for when partners fall off on a steep climb and can't touch the rock to get going again. Or falling early on the second pitch of canary. I wish I could take credit for this but Tom taught me this too. Props to him.

I don't use the daisy chain either but lots of my friends do. They use both the rope and the daisy to clip into anchors. Whatever makes them feel safe. But to stash the daisy while climbing and not get it in the way, they swing the daisy between the legs and clip the daisy onto the back gear loop. Clip an appropriate loop on the daisy as to not have it hang to low (getting it caught around knees) and not too tight (floss your bung hole). As a general rule, it always better to use a cordelette to make the anchor. If something bad happens and you have to escape the belay, it is much easier to get out if your rope or daisies are not involved with the equalization of the anchor. Also, the cordelette can become rappel anchors. (try that with a daisy or the precious climbing rope) Where's the naked chicks?

Hey D, Get the grivel air tech racing and it won't let ya down. Really light and I've known 4 people use it on n ridge of baker with no failure. Relatively cheap too. I've seen a lightweight kong axe break while self arresting. What good is that? I will fight the trend and say that one can go too light. Don't be one of those stories ("unprepared victims") we hear about. Instead climb with me and I will carry the rope/rack.

I was going across the border two weeks ago and the Canadian guard informed us that we would be needing passports or birth certificates with photo ID. He let us in but informed us of the probable changes. Has anyone been up north lately and seen these changes?

Just came back from icicle creek and I discovered many missing hangers at both clamshell cave and barny's rubble. All of Barny's rubble hangers are missing. (that's four stations) About half of clamshell cave's hangers are gone too and the only ones that are still there are the ones that were apoxied. Does anyone have a idea why this is happening? (something about the fire?) If you are going to icicle bring either hangers or stoppers for the anchors. (don't forget the nuts for the studs too)

I have an andista and have used it tons for the last 3 summers. Great pack and I have been violating the 40 pound rule many times. It has worked fine for many 6 day trips as long as you think light is right.