OlympicMtnBoy

Nice work! Cool challenge you set for yourself, way to go!

Cool, good work solo. My partner dropped a microwave on me on the first pitch there, landed right on my belay spot but fortunately I jumped quick. I found Terror terrifying for the rock, even compared to the other pickets. Beautiful view though! Right on with that trail, it works as long as you follow it!

Hi Timmy, I was up there a week ago and this is correct. Basically instead of that little steep snow pitch you can start up the rock right from the Five Fingers-West Peak saddle. Either go directly over Five Fingers or drop down a bit into a loose screen gully to get there You just start climbing and follow your nose kind of up and climbers left, wrapping around and up on ledges. I don't think it's any harder than the normal finish but it is longer and dirtier. You can descend back to the notch with a couple of 30m raps from existing anchors. Pic shows a climber heading up and left. There ya go, and this can serve as a teaser for my upcoming trip report including our traverse from the Valhallas and my unfortunate extraction via helicopter after a fall on the way to Mt. Tom. Have fun and be safe up there!

Awesome, I love seeing activity up there! I dreamed about climbing that once but a hike to the base changed my mind. That is a mountaineering peak for sure but looks great from a distance. If you need some partners for better rock big walls in BC let me know! Not that many aid climbers up there anymore. TFPU here!

Thanks for sharing, that looks like a great route and adventure, even if the end wasn't quite as planned. That looks like it hurt! Heal up and get back out there!

Nice snafflehound!

Woot! Nice work!

Cool, thanks for sharing that! We went in the milk creek/lost lake approach and tried two different ways from the of rd. 609.. We'll try your way next time.

When I was more active in SAR and Mountain Rescue I generally had to register with the relevant county sherrifs office as an emergency worker and when we responded to a county initiated call we would have a mission number and liability coverage. Registration didn't involve much other than a trip to the office and finger prints/pic. Is PMR not under this sort of umbrella? Has this sort of process changed? Totally ignorant of the specific situation, hope it gets worked out in case I need a rescue down there some day!

My wife found her single mountaineering boots, 6.5, on Sierra Trading Post, ordered several sizes to find the right one and sent the rest back for free. Might try that option for doubles. I also might look at back country ski boots. The new ones climb just as well as old plastics. Might have better luck finding small sizes locally as well since the bc ski market is bigger.

Wow, 7 years! I have some old approach skis and salewa tour bindings if you are looking.

Sorry! I just wanted to share the info for the future. I guess we've all taken our tools for a long walk in he bushes though, it's a Cascades passage but bummer on the phone. I'd head back in this weekend if anyone wants. Not sure how it will all fare though.

Doh! We did your same scoping from the road and a few mins down the creek on Sunday. Then we drove to the end of the road and did a fun 3 pitch wi 2-3 next to the demon mine. Might get snowed under and rained out this week though.

Found some fun moderate ice below Lennox Mtn! About 3000’ so may be getting rained on and the road may no longer be easy to drive. Low snow made avy danger a non issue this weekend.

Wildsnow.com had some detailed Denali ski planning posts from 2018 and 2019 that might be worth reading, sounds like some like bigger boots and some made due with 40 below overboots or similar. It does depend on your feet, overboots won’t help if you don’t have enough circulation.