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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. genepires
    very creative route. thanks for the TR.
  2. genepires
    bridges should be thick enough that the shallow portions that are warmed will not affect the strength of bridge. now bridges you can see, those would be sketch in the heat. as far as wet sloppy avi slides, I would think that hells highway is the only portion that would be of concern. maybe winnies slide. if you go early enough, then it should not be a problem. like before 2pm 70F is pretty warm for summit temp but a 60F is not unheard of. Wonder if that forecast is for while we are in this heat wave and could return to norm in a week.
  3. genepires
    good question. I never did the route where you needed to go back up the other side on your purple line but that red line looks like it has advantages. less drop down to creek, being more downstream may have less slide alder and a lower angle up hill on other side. let us know what you find out when you go up that route.
  4. genepires
    fuck one needs a permit in the pickets? I thought it was a free for all up there.
  5. genepires
    I suspect this wall is beyond most of ours pay scale or our mental ability to climb the same 20 feet for hours.
  6. genepires
    do you really need to keep them in for your infrequent climbing trips? I can see if you are climbing 3 days a week but if you are a fair weather weekend warrior, just leave them out while climbing. It may be a bad idea to do heavy exertion with those things in also. chocking hazard? what if you crack your head in a fall with those inside? BTW, I offer no real educated advice here. just thoughts from a goofball. take it for what it is worth.
  7. genepires
    even without a pack it would be pretty worthwhile. or one of those treadmill stair step things if you can find a open gym.
  8. genepires
    and I have see it in late july with 4 wall to wall crevasses that had sketch bridges that failed before our return back from summit. the hydro dynamics of glacier flow through that notch guarantee that there are crevasses that you may or not see. if one was forced at gun point to solo a glacier, the sulphide glacier on shuksan would be a better choice. or eldorado pk. traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous. recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.
  9. genepires
    isn't that why we teach youth to climb?
  10. genepires
    are there tall buildings where you live? you could "test" yourself by loading up a pack with weight as DPS gave and go up the stairs, take elevator down, go back up stairs, repeat till elevation achieved. gauge your fitness but realize that stairs is probably harder than walking up a trail due to the undulating nature of trails. If you train, just train for the approach to camp day. summit day will have a significantly lighter pack and be a bit easier. There may even be a movement of camp up higher on glacier which would make summit day easier. IMG has quality guides so things will go great. July is a great time to be up there. have fun!
  11. genepires
    going solo through hells highway on fisher chimney route would be terrifying.
  12. genepires
    safe is a relative word. you may need to define your characteristic of a safe climb. I would say sahale peak from sahale arm side (not sahale glacier side) and maybe some lines up around the ptmarigan traverse side but I have not been over on that side. if hiking on somewhat mellow glacier solo is acceptable, I would suggest eldorado peak.
  13. genepires
    As I get older my mountain choices get easier. to the point that most of my climbing I approach 2 minutes and I click into a auto belay.
  14. genepires
    sre you rockin on hardboots on your split? which boot/binding combo? as usual, great photos and chris must have hid whenever you pulled camera out.
  15. genepires
  16. genepires
    Is your bouldering anything like this? https://www.tiktok.com/@thetiktokclimber/video/6958205854705405190?referer_url=https%3A%2F%2Funofficialnetworks.com%2F&referer_video_id=6958205854705405190&refer=embed
  17. genepires
    builder or boulder?
  18. genepires
    I have been to the summit of baker maybe 60 times. Only stood on actual top for the first 6 or 7 times. after that , it just felt inappropriate and disrespectful to "conquer" that beautiful mountain. Just stood a couple feet below the summit and took photos for others.
  19. genepires
    a new take on the John Scurlock mtn photography! surprising detail for a drone camera but what do I know about such things? bravo!
  20. genepires
    n buttress col on colchuck but get a early start (headlamp) to avoid the morning sun on lower gulley. triple C dragontail should be good for a couple more weeks. I saw someones photo that the ice pitch looked thin or bare rock though. be prepared to go around that.
  21. genepires
    the geographic spread of routes is rather unusual but I am an older guy so I may be missing something and afraid of change. I think a interesting guidebook, especially for beginners would be a comprehensive listing/description of routes that are easy to setup TR's on. All casual walk around to tops!
  22. genepires
    you will be. eventually.
  23. genepires
    May not matter but one thing that MV lacks is the real close world class mountain biking like Bellingham has.
  24. genepires
    Darin is a old school ‘ham curmudgeon. Bellingham was ruined in the 1990.
  25. genepires
    ice season in snoq pass may be over. Look to the north facing alpine terrain but this is not the place for beginners to learn ice climbing. come later in summer, you may wish to look at the north side of baker, coleman glacier serac climbing. easy to setup TR's
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