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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. genepires
  2. genepires
    recent photo from summit area. the area right below the summit tip is fine to unrope. as far as elsewhere on mountain, i would never unrope while on glacier unless i could verify without a doubt that I was not on a crevasse bridge. Either would have to avi probe a safe zone or stand on bare ice. You can not assume that flat compression sections of glacier are crevasse free. You may have the option of finding bare ice gathering places. :ike I mentioned earlier beware of hanging fire off of colfax or other of the black butes. glacier calving or spontanious rock fall. the pummice ridge (colfax saddle if def non glaciated.
  3. genepires
  4. genepires
    I will chime in but realize that I have not been on that route this year so take it for what it is worth. I have done the route in late season, about the same time as you will be doing it. I did not need ice screws to belay the roman wall. just use proper crampon and axe technique. If you are not solid with that, then either running belay or standard belay off of screws, depending on your level of comfort. If you are going to pitch it out, I would guess about 5 rope lengths assuming you crampon to were you feel uncomfortable. I have not heard about that monster shrund from guide services like previous years. there was a crazy hanging fire off colfax so I would suggest that you hustle past that point. maybe take breaks before and after that exposure. getting from the colman glacier to the pumice ridge can be wierd this time of year. expect a little bit of bare glacier ice there. can't help with specifics there as it surely changed since I was there. there is always water at hogsback, meltwater off the glacier. purify that water. the ONLY place i have ever gotten sick from drinking water unpurified is the one time I did not purify there at hogsback camp.
  5. genepires
    add that is you are going bare glacier ice climbing, do not assume that self arrest is an option. if it is steeep enough that a slip will result in sliding, do running belays. that means carrying several ice screws.
  6. genepires
    coleman deming route on baker may be ok to try. evidently the most schrund/crevasse that formed wall to wall and prevented all access last year has not formed. hustle past the hanging fire on colfax pk. expect much of winter snow to be gone and be walking on bare glacier ice, especially on the deming part (roman wall) of the route. or dirty trail climb up st helens plus what Jason said.
  7. genepires
    that is going to be hard to watch knowing the ultimate outcome. I feel like I would be screaming and crying in between moments of pure joy.
  8. genepires
    heard there was major road damage due to flooding during the heat wave. creeks coming off of boston basin took out the road but that is upstream of eldo TH.
  9. genepires
    well.......I have not been up there this season, or in the last dozen or so years, but usually there is good ice climbing by now. there is usually open ice year round but getting to them can be tricky with snow covering up some of the cracks. But I would bet that now, especially given the recent heat wave, that the approach snow is gone and bare ice all the way. not sure if you have ever been there but find the climbers campground (mirkwood) in the trees. should be a trial going there. keep going down the ridge till you see a another climber trail going down to the glacier.
  10. genepires
    very creative route. thanks for the TR.
  11. genepires
    bridges should be thick enough that the shallow portions that are warmed will not affect the strength of bridge. now bridges you can see, those would be sketch in the heat. as far as wet sloppy avi slides, I would think that hells highway is the only portion that would be of concern. maybe winnies slide. if you go early enough, then it should not be a problem. like before 2pm 70F is pretty warm for summit temp but a 60F is not unheard of. Wonder if that forecast is for while we are in this heat wave and could return to norm in a week.
  12. genepires
    good question. I never did the route where you needed to go back up the other side on your purple line but that red line looks like it has advantages. less drop down to creek, being more downstream may have less slide alder and a lower angle up hill on other side. let us know what you find out when you go up that route.
  13. genepires
    fuck one needs a permit in the pickets? I thought it was a free for all up there.
  14. genepires
    I suspect this wall is beyond most of ours pay scale or our mental ability to climb the same 20 feet for hours.
  15. genepires
    do you really need to keep them in for your infrequent climbing trips? I can see if you are climbing 3 days a week but if you are a fair weather weekend warrior, just leave them out while climbing. It may be a bad idea to do heavy exertion with those things in also. chocking hazard? what if you crack your head in a fall with those inside? BTW, I offer no real educated advice here. just thoughts from a goofball. take it for what it is worth.
  16. genepires
    even without a pack it would be pretty worthwhile. or one of those treadmill stair step things if you can find a open gym.
  17. genepires
    and I have see it in late july with 4 wall to wall crevasses that had sketch bridges that failed before our return back from summit. the hydro dynamics of glacier flow through that notch guarantee that there are crevasses that you may or not see. if one was forced at gun point to solo a glacier, the sulphide glacier on shuksan would be a better choice. or eldorado pk. traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous. recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.
  18. genepires
    isn't that why we teach youth to climb?
  19. genepires
    are there tall buildings where you live? you could "test" yourself by loading up a pack with weight as DPS gave and go up the stairs, take elevator down, go back up stairs, repeat till elevation achieved. gauge your fitness but realize that stairs is probably harder than walking up a trail due to the undulating nature of trails. If you train, just train for the approach to camp day. summit day will have a significantly lighter pack and be a bit easier. There may even be a movement of camp up higher on glacier which would make summit day easier. IMG has quality guides so things will go great. July is a great time to be up there. have fun!
  20. genepires
    going solo through hells highway on fisher chimney route would be terrifying.
  21. genepires
    safe is a relative word. you may need to define your characteristic of a safe climb. I would say sahale peak from sahale arm side (not sahale glacier side) and maybe some lines up around the ptmarigan traverse side but I have not been over on that side. if hiking on somewhat mellow glacier solo is acceptable, I would suggest eldorado peak.
  22. genepires
    As I get older my mountain choices get easier. to the point that most of my climbing I approach 2 minutes and I click into a auto belay.
  23. genepires
    sre you rockin on hardboots on your split? which boot/binding combo? as usual, great photos and chris must have hid whenever you pulled camera out.
  24. genepires
  25. genepires
    Is your bouldering anything like this? https://www.tiktok.com/@thetiktokclimber/video/6958205854705405190?referer_url=https%3A%2F%2Funofficialnetworks.com%2F&referer_video_id=6958205854705405190&refer=embed
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