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seano-

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About seano-

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  • Birthday 01/01/1977

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    drdirtbag.com
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    Western US

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  1. In addition to Leor's long days, you might be interested in some of Luke's, which tend toward more suffering and less technical terrain: http://seekingultra.blogspot.com/ . If you want to avoid glaciers, there are plenty of things in the Pasayten that are remote, glacier-free, and non-technical, e.g. Lago, Carru, and Osceola. Coming from Colorado, you'll find that many individual North Cascades peaks are ordeals compared to anything in CO outside the Weminuche. And don't fear the glaciers too much -- the small ones are pretty tame, especially later in the season when the crevasses are all open and trivial to spot.
  2. Having spent a good chunk of the past few summers on and around retreating glaciers, this is something I think about a lot. I do more driving than the average person, my car is not especially fuel-efficient, and I probably won't buy an electric anytime soon. On the other hand, I don't fly much, don't own a house, and eat very little beef. I haven't done the math, but my carbon footprint is probably well below average, though probably still larger than it should be. FWIW, this article I read awhile back is helpful in comparing various activities' impacts: https://arstechnica.com/science/2017/10/emissions-eschmissions-how-to-simply-reduce-your-carbon-footprint-in-2017/
  3. Great TR on an out-there objective... and what a twist ending! I haven't gotten the tweaker vibe around Chilliwack Lake near as much as at countless other sketchy trailheads where I've parked. It makes me think how lucky I have been not to have my "home" looted or burned in a decade of summers on the road. Glad things turned out okay for you.
  4. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I have often thought that if I eat it, it will likely be on some dumb class 2-3 terrain where I am tired, distracted, and/or bored, and just trying to get it over with. There's not much to be done about that, beyond remembering that a fall is a fall, whether that's on class 2 or class 5 terrain. Having watched a lot of short-roping this summer, it seems more like a suicide pact than protection, but maybe that's just me...
  5. That's some grim smoke -- way to persevere despite the long-term health consequences! Thanks for sharing the old photos. FWIW, here's a photo of Challenger from Whatcom on a clear day in 2014:
  6. Nice! That brings back some fond memories from one of my favorite places. I still need to get back to Fox and the Glacier Circle one of these summers... Just FYI, I found MacDonald's 5.4 Central Rib chossy and sketchy, though I could easily have been off-route, since the north face is a big, wander-y place. Harder and less fun than the NE rib of J-berg.
  7. It all of course depends upon the weather. I wouldn't do the Pickets, both because of the permit BS if you camp, and because the only easy part to reach, Terror Basin, will probably be crowded. Boston Basin would be even more crowded. With good weather, Goode would be a great adventure. One thing I've looked at that might be interesting is to go in Bridge Creek and up Goode, then traverse on over Storm King to Logan and out to Rainy Pass via Beckey's cross-country route. That puts you close enough to your car not to need a shuttle. If you have extra time/energy, you can dayhike Eldorado to avoid the permit issue.
  8. Fernow - Copper Peak Ridge Traverse

    I don't rap, so I can't say for sure, but I don't remember finding a lot of tat.
  9. I think the whole thing is about 60 miles, with 17 to the Access Creek turnoff and 20-21 (?) back from Beaver Pass. It's about 48-50 miles round-trip to do East Fury via Access Creek. Given that it's over 10k elevation gain round-trip to either end, I would guess 15k or so of elevation gain, but that will vary a lot based on route-finding. I wish I hadn't turned off my GPS, but I thought I might need every bit of spare battery.
  10. Nice trip! I've been wondering what that area bounded by Easy Ridge, the Pickets, and Triumph is like, and your photos make me want to go tag Despair. I'm jealous of your clear skies, and your zoom lens -- you must have been carrying some serious glass. PS -- Be a cheap bastard. It's only another 7 miles ;-).
  11. I carried a pair of Kahtoola K-10 crampons, which work for steep-ish snow and low-angle ice. I ended up not needing them, but could have if the route down the Challenger Glacier had been trickier. They're one of my favorite pieces of gear, since they allow me to get away without wearing mountain boots on a lot of outings (Goode, Logan, Shuksan, etc.).
  12. I dropped down, crossed the snowfield, and climbed the rock rib before Fury's SE glacier. I didn't know if the ridge went, and I knew from last year that this route is pretty fast. It was somewhere around 6500 calories, which is only a bit over 200 cal/hr for my upper time estimate of 30 hours. I ended up with 1 pack of pop-tarts left over, so the food was just about right.
  13. Yikes! Glad you're mostly okay. This is a good reminder of the risks and responsibilities of climbing in popular areas, both of which I should probably think more about.
  14. Trail runners. If you get the right kind, and practice using them, they're surprisingly competent on moderate 5th class alpine routes. I used the same shoes on Mount Temple's east ridge and Sir Donald's NW ridge this summer. I do use rock shoes for slabby stuff like the Flatirons and Tuolomne, but mostly scramble in trail runners. In this case, I used New Balance Vazee Summits, but La Sportiva and Salomon make similar shoes (as well as plenty of models that suck). Adidas Terrex X-Kings are also good, though wildly overpriced. Basically, get something with big lugs and a thin midsole that doesn't stick out much on the inside.
  15. Every time I visit, I am impressed by how little trace of man I find. A few summit registers, a hint of boot-prints near Access Creek, and maybe 2-3 pieces of rap tat on the whole ridge between West Fury and Challenger. And acres of even wilder drainages in all directions. Thanks, that's part of what I hoped to do. I don't recommend the full traverse, but Ghost to Challenger coming in via Perfect or Whatcom Pass would cover most of the fun ground with a lot less pain. Thanks! Those things creep me out, both the way they move, and the thought of stepping on one (I haven't, yet). Thanks! Just running in others' footsteps, as I was on "Mount Holyoke" last summer...
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