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seano-

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About seano-

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 01/01/1977

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  • Homepage
    drdirtbag.com
  • Location
    Western US

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  1. Alps 4000m speed climb attempt

    Yeah, I really wish I had met Ueli. I thought he would be one of the ones who made it to retirement.
  2. Alps 4000m speed climb attempt

    Don't want to buy the book? Fine with me.
  3. Hello, CC.com crew! Those of you who know of me are probably familiar with my various long dayhikes in the Cascades. For those who do not, I started climbing remote peaks car-to-car in the Sierra, and decided to take the same approach elsewhere, including the North Cascades. Things got a bit out of hand, and one night in 2017 I found myself stumbling along the shores of Ross Lake by headlamp, trying not to take a nap in the trail or trip and face-plant into a giant toad, after traversing the Northern Pickets from East Fury to Challenger in a single push. Since then, I have also been day-hiking peaks outside the United States, including some in the Alps in 2018. At the time I thought that it would be my one and only trip to the range, but now I hope to make another. I want to climb the Alps prominent 4000-meter peaks as quickly as possible, then write a book about it. Climbing in the Alps is not cheap, though, so I need to know that there is enough interest before I do it. If you want to see it happen, please consider buying an eBook for at least $1, or a signed print for $40. Those seem like fair prices, and if there is not enough interest, or if the coronavirus turns the world into a Mad Max hellscape, you'll get your money back (though money wouldn't matter much in the latter situation...). Anyways, skip your morning latte, tell your friends -- let's make this happen! Blog post: http://drdirtbag.com/2020/03/05/human-powered-alpine-4000m-peaks-fkt/ Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/drdirtbag/adieu-aux-alpes/
  4. [TR] Eldorado - NW Ice Couloir 11/03/2019

    Whoa... That thing has been there since at least the early 2000s, and perhaps since Beckey's 2nd edition guide in 1977 (don't have mine handy to check). Nonsensically, I felt like it would be there forever...
  5. Yay! It's good to hear of others cleaning up the climber garbage up there. Agreed. I downclimbed this to get from Easy to Hard Mox, and had a foot blow on the loose, steep first pitch above the ground. It's not a place I would like to revisit.
  6. Nice route. Way to cover a lot of remote and seldom-visited ground quickly!
  7. Copper-Fernow traverse

    I did it in 2014 from Holden, and thought it was low-fifth-class and often chossy. I wrote a trip report -- http://www.drdirtbag.com/2014/07/04/copper-n-ridge-5-5-fernow/ -- and probably have more photos lying around.
  8. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    It ain't cheap, but it's only "expensive" by Mexican standards. With a group of two or more people, an economy rental is a pretty good deal. As for traffic, it's not bad once you get out of Mexico City, though there are some conventions you need to get used to, like people passing down the middle of a 2-lane road with wide shoulders. I was just down there in February, and did not find it too stressful.
  9. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    There's more BS to deal with on the high volcanoes in Ecuador than Mexico: there are guards, and depending upon whom you talk to, you may or may not need a guide to climb. Mexico is much more laid back, with no guards, and good free camping near the Izta trailhead and on the south side of Orizaba (not the normal gringo route up the shrinking glacier). If there are two or more of you in Mexico, I'd rent a car instead of messing with public transit. It's not that expensive, you can make better use of your time, and you have a place to store the gear you aren't using. Either way, it should be a great trip.
  10. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Many of the FA routes in the Northern Pickets, which followed glaciers from Luna Cirque that have retreated and broken up enough since the 1940s to make them completely different and possibly unclimbable. The same probably goes for some of the less-common routes on the NE face of Johannesburg.
  11. The big, isolated west-side peaks are reasonably close to Seattle, and none has a ridiculous approach. Sloan and Whitehorse both have some amount of glacier travel, and Darrington is... a unique cultural experience.
  12. In addition to Leor's long days, you might be interested in some of Luke's, which tend toward more suffering and less technical terrain: http://seekingultra.blogspot.com/ . If you want to avoid glaciers, there are plenty of things in the Pasayten that are remote, glacier-free, and non-technical, e.g. Lago, Carru, and Osceola. Coming from Colorado, you'll find that many individual North Cascades peaks are ordeals compared to anything in CO outside the Weminuche. And don't fear the glaciers too much -- the small ones are pretty tame, especially later in the season when the crevasses are all open and trivial to spot.
  13. Having spent a good chunk of the past few summers on and around retreating glaciers, this is something I think about a lot. I do more driving than the average person, my car is not especially fuel-efficient, and I probably won't buy an electric anytime soon. On the other hand, I don't fly much, don't own a house, and eat very little beef. I haven't done the math, but my carbon footprint is probably well below average, though probably still larger than it should be. FWIW, this article I read awhile back is helpful in comparing various activities' impacts: https://arstechnica.com/science/2017/10/emissions-eschmissions-how-to-simply-reduce-your-carbon-footprint-in-2017/
  14. Great TR on an out-there objective... and what a twist ending! I haven't gotten the tweaker vibe around Chilliwack Lake near as much as at countless other sketchy trailheads where I've parked. It makes me think how lucky I have been not to have my "home" looted or burned in a decade of summers on the road. Glad things turned out okay for you.
  15. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I have often thought that if I eat it, it will likely be on some dumb class 2-3 terrain where I am tired, distracted, and/or bored, and just trying to get it over with. There's not much to be done about that, beyond remembering that a fall is a fall, whether that's on class 2 or class 5 terrain. Having watched a lot of short-roping this summer, it seems more like a suicide pact than protection, but maybe that's just me...
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