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seano-

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About seano-

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 01/01/1977

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  • Homepage
    drdirtbag.com
  • Location
    Western US

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  1. Nice TR, and great running into you guys! I think I took a photo of that very same giant "tree ear" mushroom on my much less successful Pickets trip:
  2. Terror Basin \ West Mac Beta

    tanstaafl -- The "trail" continued just about straight across or very slightly downstream from where I reached Terror Creek; there was a cairn, and some sparse flagging both before and after. I waded the creek slightly upstream after failing to find a dry crossing, but it was gentle and no more than calf-deep. I had more trouble following the trail below the creek crossing than above. You might be able to get a rough elevation/position from my Strava track: https://www.strava.com/activities/5652706440
  3. Terror Basin \ West Mac Beta

    Right -- I think most of the difficulties are getting over to the barrier, and getting to West Mac is about the same as always. You can see on the photo that it's a mix of snow and slabs. As for my "itinerary"... up Crescent Creek approach to the Chopping Block, getting served by the Twin Needles, then exiting via the Barrier and Terror Basin. A long day without much to show for it. :-(
  4. Terror Basin \ West Mac Beta

    I was just up there yesterday. The approach trail is pretty beaten-in, with a bit of dirt/choss getting down to camp. Terror Glacier is definitely more of a broken-up pain in the butt than when I was there in 2014, so you'll deal with steep polished slabs, crevasses, and bare ice getting to Pyramid. The high glacier traverse I used in 2014 between West Mac and Pyramid looks like it may no longer go. The 'schrund/moat getting to the Barrier was a bit dicey, too.
  5. Torment Forbidden area info???

    I was there 7/11, and while the snow bridge was intact, I wasn't about to cross it. The debris crossing to the right wasn't so bad staying left on the rock. One could probably traverse back left on snow above the 'schrund, but it is also possible to reach the ridge by continuing up and right, tunneling up a moat and under two chockstones. It was pretty much smooth sailing after that. Descended the ledges, ran into JasonG on the way. Good times...
  6. Nice work! That Quilmes brings back fond memories. Next time, stock up on Mantecol and alfajores in Mendoza. Way better than freeze-dried stuff, or energy bars from the States.
  7. Awesome TR, well-written with interesting and informative photos. The Eiger’s rock is mind-blowingly bad: crumbly, outward-sloping, and covered in pebbles wherever they can stick. I can’t imagine going up that face myself, so I’m glad of the chance to climb it vicariously.
  8. Alps 4000m speed climb attempt

    Yeah, I really wish I had met Ueli. I thought he would be one of the ones who made it to retirement.
  9. Alps 4000m speed climb attempt

    Don't want to buy the book? Fine with me.
  10. Hello, CC.com crew! Those of you who know of me are probably familiar with my various long dayhikes in the Cascades. For those who do not, I started climbing remote peaks car-to-car in the Sierra, and decided to take the same approach elsewhere, including the North Cascades. Things got a bit out of hand, and one night in 2017 I found myself stumbling along the shores of Ross Lake by headlamp, trying not to take a nap in the trail or trip and face-plant into a giant toad, after traversing the Northern Pickets from East Fury to Challenger in a single push. Since then, I have also been day-hiking peaks outside the United States, including some in the Alps in 2018. At the time I thought that it would be my one and only trip to the range, but now I hope to make another. I want to climb the Alps prominent 4000-meter peaks as quickly as possible, then write a book about it. Climbing in the Alps is not cheap, though, so I need to know that there is enough interest before I do it. If you want to see it happen, please consider buying an eBook for at least $1, or a signed print for $40. Those seem like fair prices, and if there is not enough interest, or if the coronavirus turns the world into a Mad Max hellscape, you'll get your money back (though money wouldn't matter much in the latter situation...). Anyways, skip your morning latte, tell your friends -- let's make this happen! Blog post: http://drdirtbag.com/2020/03/05/human-powered-alpine-4000m-peaks-fkt/ Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/drdirtbag/adieu-aux-alpes/
  11. [TR] Eldorado - NW Ice Couloir 11/03/2019

    Whoa... That thing has been there since at least the early 2000s, and perhaps since Beckey's 2nd edition guide in 1977 (don't have mine handy to check). Nonsensically, I felt like it would be there forever...
  12. Yay! It's good to hear of others cleaning up the climber garbage up there. Agreed. I downclimbed this to get from Easy to Hard Mox, and had a foot blow on the loose, steep first pitch above the ground. It's not a place I would like to revisit.
  13. Nice route. Way to cover a lot of remote and seldom-visited ground quickly!
  14. Copper-Fernow traverse

    I did it in 2014 from Holden, and thought it was low-fifth-class and often chossy. I wrote a trip report -- http://www.drdirtbag.com/2014/07/04/copper-n-ridge-5-5-fernow/ -- and probably have more photos lying around.
  15. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    It ain't cheap, but it's only "expensive" by Mexican standards. With a group of two or more people, an economy rental is a pretty good deal. As for traffic, it's not bad once you get out of Mexico City, though there are some conventions you need to get used to, like people passing down the middle of a 2-lane road with wide shoulders. I was just down there in February, and did not find it too stressful.
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