genepires

buying directly from author puts more of that money in authors wallet. authors don't really get compensated for the hard work when all they do is sell through merchants. did my preorder. thanks Kurt!

you were able to get Honnold to check out the book? I wanna hear that story!

Hike up your skirt a little more And show the world to me

I was thinking of broken ski pole. May not work depending on your pole. You can always use it picker shut your partners lips if he/she is talking too much smack.

here is one thing every tour should bring in addition to duct tape, hose clamp, zip ties, first aid and your brain.

Nothing good has ever come out of me in water. does not matter if it is a canoeing a normal river, inner tubing a small creek or even swimming in a damn pool. Water is out to kill me. snow is nothing but water waiting to kill me. Add the patience of a mountain with the vengeance of water and it is always a dance with death. Chris, on the risk prob aspect you mentioned. they are calling a low risk high prob for the one trial, that being the day you are on the slope. your comment of several trials can not be calculated over many trials in the forecast. Not sure where you are going with that concept. not sure why you are bringing up that ruby mtn avi as an example and using that quote. that quote was for that particular avi which was cornice initiated. they are not saying that ALL low prob/high consequence can not be human triggered, just that particular instance. And towards your expectation that the forecast is not specific enough for different users? Are you suggesting that Snowmo guys putting more stress on slope need a different prediction based on their loading parameters? How about users base their own risk knowing that they forecast is based on single person skier loading? Maybe you are expecting too much from the NWAC?

if you can't find what you need, maybe try wearing socks inside rock shoes? that would work better than wearing socks on the outside of rock shoes.

yesterday was a very very good day to be on a single plank. classic cascade concrete. 6 inches of new @34F.

in the depths of winter, can you usually get to the silver star gate or do they close a gate farther down the road like at early winters CG? I know some people snomo around in winter to get access.

How far up the hwy can you drive? Never been over there in the winter.

Mods. Please move this to spray. Chris. For your own well being, you need to drop whatever beef you have with anyone else. This ongoing tension you have and inablility to drop it and move forward is only going to reduce your overall life expectancy. Chill. Relax. Have fun. Live. This is is a free site. You are not privileged to say whatever you want The owners can say and do whatever they want cause they own it. Not you and not me. There is no freedom of speech here but only the graces allowed to us by the owners. The administrator has spoken and it would be well advised to take heed of what was asked of you. This is a community site. People have varied experiences and generally act well to one another. So far as I have seen though, you are a one trick pony whose only contribution is this constant attack on NWAC and TAY. There has to be more to you than this. Share the other parts of your life and make some friends here. When you are hanging out with your friends, do you bombard them with this NWAC conspiracy thing? I doubt it. Share some good photos. Tell inspiring stories. Let us live vicariously through your adventures. and if you can’t stop, there have been others who did not listen and were removed. Do not be surprised. This is not a conspiracy spreading website. peace!

thank you Jon. I appreciate the work that NWAC does.

Defense Department Base Budget DoD requested $597.1 billion. It seeks to: Increase manning levels for all four branches from 1.314 million in 2018 to 1.338 million. A 2.6 percent pay raise for military personnel. It brings total compensation to $61,700 for enlisted personnel and $113,500 for officers. Those figures include tax-free allowances for food and housing. Continuing the Missile Defeat and Defense Enhancement initiative Increase procurement of preferred and advanced munitions. Modernize equipment for the second Army Armored Brigade Combat Team. Buy 10 combat ships. Increase production of the F-35 and F/A-18 aircraft. The F-35 Joint Strike Fighter program cost $400 billion for 2,457 planes, mostly for development and testing. Modernize the nuclear triad too enhance deterrence. Enhance communications in space. Increase the use of technology innovation. don't see the large amount of civilain employees working for DOD. but there are quite a few things we cold do less with in that budget. but there are a few good things in there. Increase procurement of preferred and advanced munitions. Modernize equipment for the second Army Armored Brigade Combat Team. Buy 10 combat ships. Increase production of the F-35 and F/A-18 aircraft. The F-35 Joint Strike Fighter program cost $400 billion for 2,457 planes, mostly for development and testing. Modernize the nuclear triad too enhance deterrence. Enhance communications in space. Increase the use of technology innovation.

a good question is the makeup of the defense budget. I think a good chunk of that 600 billion goes to peoples wages.

Would one be alone if the hike was somewhere without cell coverage?

saw one of our own's photo in the interwebs. nice job! http://unofficialnetworks.com/2018/03/27/mt-baker-has-the-deepest-snowpack-in-north-america-top-10-deepest-snowpacks-right-now/

I try to mitigate risk in a low brain energy method by assessing at most the top three hazards for my immediate location and do my best to deal with those. Dealing with more than three gets things too muddled and I do not do a good enough job wither top three. So if I am rappelling in a snow storm with a sprained ankle and nightfall approaching with a glacier travel once o the ground. My immediate concern is just the rappel and not much else cause rappel demands so much. Once on ground, my concern goes to glacier travel navigation and avi iisue. The other stuff is not really important. There will always be so much other that clouds the important stuff. Not that I ever did such a messed up scenerio

Well I suppose it is lucky that the vast majority of avalanche incidents had 2 or more obvious signals screaming at people to run away. there is a paper about heuristics done years ago that analyzed accidents and apply to concept of heuristics to it. very good read if you have not read it yet. take away was that we should keep eyes and ears open to what nature is telling us, always. and watch the avi forecast. Don't get me wrong I am not saying that fluke accidents do not happen. But the statistics show that in most cases, we ignore the obvious for whatever reasons. so don't fret about that possibility where nothing points to a problem. fret about the conditions that promote the ignoring of signs. Familiarity being the biggest one.

I think the issues with BC skiers is not their over reliance on pits as the sole predictive element but rather several other errors in judgement that usually ignore the warnings that things like a pit and avi forecasts provide. A good book o this is http://avalanchepatch.com/

Did a test comparing regular pot to a jet boil pot on a non jet boil stove both pots had 2 cups water and same stove setting. Non jetboil pot has a little bit bigger base area. I took the insulator off the jet boil pot cause I thought that stove heat may melt it. time to rolling boil for jet boil pot was 4 minutes time for rolling boil on a regular pot was 4.5 minutes

yeah. somewhere in patagonia actually. But I had a friend who got nailed by a microwave sized rock at lower town wall index. Had to get 3 feet of his intestines taken out because of the rupture and bleeding. luckily he had a grown man small pot belly to absorb some of the forces. A skinny little sport climber would have been cut in half. If it hit his head, a helmet would have done nothing but make a better casket viewing.

interesting question. I never tried it but my thought is that it would help but not much. That is because with the stove it was meant for sits up inside the bottom of the pot. This keeps heat from leaking out so bad. If you put these pots on a regular stove, the heat source can still leak out the sides. In fact I would worry about the leaking heat melting those plasticy handles on the side. if someone owns one of these, a side by side comparison would be interesting. Similar sized pot with same amount of water and measure for time to boil. I have a really old jetboil and if i can remember, I will try it out this weekend. side note. those pots are pricey. $100?

You are absolutely right. There must be an infinite amount of possibilities / situations that I left out like -some days you do everything right and get dealt a supreme bad luck day. i have a friend of a friend whose partner died right in front of him while approaching a alpine rock climb. Both was wearing a helmet but a single random falling rock killed his partner.still.

Well I guess in hindsight it Ian always easy to see the bad judgement in accident situations. But it seems like there are usually obvious in hindsight lapses in decision making tha lead to accidents. Maybe not 99% but prolly real close. Things like not wearing helmet, continueiing upwards into bad weather, not protecting a climb well enough, etc. i feel like you may be putting more into what bob said than he was intending? my take of what bob says is that -some days you do everything right and you have good luck and give a bunch of high fives -some days you do everything right and get dealt a bad luck and you go home with a good story -some days you make a bad decision and get some good luck and maybe you learn a lesson, maybe not -some days you make a bad decision and get some bad luck and you get a epic story to tell -some days you make several bad choices and no amount of good luck will overcome it. End of game!

I guess I am lazy and inviting trouble. or maybe I just require a highly accurate data set to come up with a number. My training was in applied math and not statistics. Not comfortablable with unknowns left dangling. You may be required to make inferences with less than complete data and be ok with possible correct or close or completely wrong conclusions. You do what you must with what you got. But I don’t like to go there. If I can’t prove it, I prolly won’t say it.