genepires

I once tried the south side of baker around October 10. It snowed around 8 inches overnight and the next day, most of the crevasses were covered with a thin snow layer. We made a attempt anyway, with every step taken after being probed by a basketless ski pole. After an hour of this torment, my last climber on the rope team punched in while following steps. We bailed. but if the weather keeps the way it is going, early October could be fine except for the maze of open crevasses.

I am finding these selfies photos satisfying. cool to see faces to the names/avatars that are familiar but never met.

way to top off a amazing 3 week trip!

great job D! I always assumed there was only positivity and upward progress in your head

the best approach shoe is the shoe having the most fun.

no idea but good luck climbing it or even getting a condition report from someone. I think very few people go out there. maybe someone will have a photo from ruth tho.

nice. I wonder if doing it in may or early june would eliminate that schrund issue and maybe cover up more of the 4th class ground. I seem to remember 1 rap, bunch of down climb snow and 2 or 3 twenty meter raps to glacier with no schrund. but that was 20 years ago.

I did both. have not gone back for repeat trips unlike the other ones. minute man has a couple good pitches though, one through a big blocky roof which was exciting. E face lex has some wide wide crack which I would rather not subject myself to anymore but the route is worthy of a trip if ready to protect that. I just remember being scared a lot on route but it was early in climbing history and we started off route. so maybe my feeling is unjustified. another option is to do back to back routes up concord tower. from the beckey route start notch, you can go up several routes (3 or 4 pitches) up concord. make a day and do a couple of those. While I have not done it, maybe look at the liberty bell traverse?

it has been a LONG time since I did this route and I got a approach question. why did you choose to take the long approach to get to the NW arete? We went up to the west ridge notch (sweet bivy) and then descended/rappelled down steep snow and 4th class to the glacier and over to the route. My knee jerk thought is that the steep snow is gone resulting in excessive amounts of loose 4th class downclimb/rap. how did that approach look while you were climbing up the route?

above plus add east buttress (5.9 A0 on bolts) and SW rib (5.8) of south early winter spire. the west face of n early winter spire is pretty good too if you are ok with 20 feet of A1 thru the 5.11 crack bits.

bring bouldering pads to hwy 20. damn!

just heard about happening this week. I think it may the 3rd pitch but not certain. Looks like there are still some loosey goosey rocks hanging there and if it is the 3rd pitch, then the belayer and anyone below would be in the line of fire. I suspect the local guides will be cleaning it up soon but just a heads up.

nice looking day. why didn't ya park at hairpin?

his plan is still 3 weeks out and a lot can happen condition wise in the mean time. winds from north (rare) could scour all than new snow pretty quick. a bit of warm and cold temps could make it in good nick shape. But you are probably more right than wrong on the wallowfest conditions.