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genepires last won the day on October 4

genepires had the most liked content!

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About genepires

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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  1. Trad anchors

    I usually keep my language to overly polite, but this is a fucking ridiculous idea. I only hope that those wires are really full strength and not going to kill someone when they end up on someones rack.
  2. vantage beta for oldtimer (with new rug rats)?

    seemed like 5 years ago I took my boy to the feathers. there is some nice juggy short climbs to teh right of the walk through, facing the road, that is good for kids. but I don't really have answers to your specific questions. Interested in answers though!
  3. [TR] Lost Peak and Carru - Standards 09/23/2018

    I am probably assuming more thought in a dogs brain, but I often wonder what dogs think about what we are doing. nice looking dog and trip.
  4. FS 2060 Clear Ck rd Good, Squire Ck Rd, Not So

    Did you get to climb on Thursday? That is great news that they are doing repairs. Shows that they value the area.
  5. How do people choose glaciers for unroped travel?

    ways back I read a book which I think was Jim Wickwires Addicted to danger. There was as story about him roped up on a glacier in a two man team in alaska I believe. His partner punches in and gets wedged in deep in the crevasse. He goes into the agony of effort to get him out, being unable and having to watch him slowly die. Even when they did everything right (roping up) they partner still died in that ice hole. That was a gripping story and always stuck with me in regards to glacier travel. Don't take them lightly! Do everything right ALL the time. Never let your guard down. Just because you have a rope does not mean safety is ensured. Being unroped and punching through means near certain getting wedged and the long painful lonely death. great book. https://books.google.com/books/about/Addicted_to_Danger.html?id=eKGZ6saSAJMC&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button#v=onepage&q&f=false
  6. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    the basic focus of the short rope is stopping a slip from becoming a fall. have to evaluate the terrain the client is on, estimate the forces that would come from a slip and be prepared for that. So that stance may be good enough for the low angle the clients are on. The idea is that when a slip occurs, you yank the person into the rock quickly. the stance requirement for that action would be far less than catching a vertical fall. Now I hope (and expect) that the guide spends more time watching the clients than looking for trundling rocks. maybe he is looking for a big flat rock to shit under. I can only speak for my ways of doing things though. I only short roped on routes in liberty bell group where there are tons of secure stances, rock horns and cracks for a quick rock pro belay. A lot of times, we all proceed in manner that looks like short roping shale ground. Climbing a icy glacier headwall in usual glacier travel mode is the same thing, just more rope between people. coming down Baker late season can be the most dangerous thing we ever do.
  7. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    I guess there is how it "should be done" and then there is "how it is done". ideally they should be the same. maybe our definition of secure stance is different?
  8. My take on intermittent fasting as a climber..

    either you got the graphic label wrong or I don't understand IF well. I think the eating and fasting labels are switched. Either that or you work the night shift? thanks for the info!
  9. Wooden training ice tools - not thei Dryice ones!

    probably not what you saw but this is somethign different. reminds me of a wooden woodpecker https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/atomahawk-2
  10. Safety in 4th Class Terrain

    guiding is a job and the primary task for a guide is client safety. Not from fear of accusation of negligence but rather a sincere concern for the welfare of the client. For the most part, the client is more than a client but becomes a friend, much like climbing with a family member new to the sport. Any climber would short rope a beginning niece climbing right? No difference with guides and clients There is more to effective short roping than a death pact. Doing it right involves the guide soloing, bouncing between secure stances and in those stances allow the client to move, when the terrain could create slips. Short roping stops slips from becoming falls. But a snug rope is the only way to curb slips.
  11. review 3 season tent for the cascades ?

    Black diamond lighthouse. Maybe add the vestibule option. Maybe they have a bigger version if you need that.
  12. question Looking for durable ski poles

    Never had them, never saw them, never heard of them. But hell, how about bamboo ski poles? If you need whippets, they say they are custom made poles. so maybe if you mail them the whippet, they can attach it. https://www.grasssticks.com/aboutpoles/
  13. Black Diamond and Walmart

    While there are anticompetitive elements in vendor agreements, it seems like there is nothing anti-competive about refusing Walmart to sell their brand. There is nothing about grabbing market share with this. Am I missing something?
  14. Must give praise for both the climbing and also the effort put into the TR. I am amazed that you could remember so much after such a long day. seems like it would become a big blur. great job!
  15. Black Diamond and Walmart

    a pleasant mix of capitalism and lawful society.