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genepires

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genepires last won the day on June 28

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About genepires

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  1. [TR] Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 09/21/2019

    yeah the last time I was up there was 12 years ago and it was snow and ice from the point where you bust over the ridge to well above the winnie slide area. damn.
  2. for sale RAB Hardshell Jacket/ Pants

    how much for the pants alone?
  3. [TR] Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 09/21/2019

    that winnie slide photo is a shock. I have been up that route a handful of times, the latest part of the season was mid august and it was bare ice top to bottom. I never saw any exposed rock like in your photo. I guess 12 years of climate change.......
  4. Winter Speculation Thread

    I buy one even on horrible predicted years. Shitty day on the hill is 1000% better than sitting at home. even in years where it was predicted to be warm and dry turned out to be pretty OK seasons overall. but warm and normal precipitation could mean some good alpine tromping times. Warm and dry better.
  5. Winter Speculation Thread

    according to NOAA long range outlooks https://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/multi_season/13_seasonal_outlooks/color/churchill.php winter looks a little above normal temps and normal precip.
  6. It's climbing related

    that is just like every one of my trips except for the free food, free beer, good weather, light packs, easy hike, easy climb, clean route, perfect rack, perfect crack, perfect camp, good sleep, free heli flights, ect ect. I often have bears wave at me though.
  7. the coleman deming side has a large end to end crevasse. you can pass it on either side but you will have a brief exposure to hanger ice cliffs above. whether you are willing to expose yourself to objective hazard is the question. the easton side is getting complicated with much of the snowpack gone and you are dealing with erratic crevasse patterns down low and large crevasses opening up high. I think there was even another large end to end crack on the upper headwall. which one is easier is a crap shoot right now, especially later on this month. sulphide glacier on shuksan should be in better shape as the bedrock has less undulations and therefore less cracks. but the real summit is got some 4th class scrambling that you may want to bring rock gear for.
  8. another cool obscure mountain TR. I like where we are going. thanks for the TR. very good photos too.
  9. wow! thanks for the TR. that is a pretty cool looking mountain and one I have never heard of before.
  10. If you the quiene sabe glacier route on Sahale, do it in May or early June. Above the saddle and below the rocky summit bit usually a big ass cornice. Plenty of room to traverse safely on the windward side to get to rocky bits. The views and experience is better with that cornice. Real alpine. The rocky bit is only 20 meters or less depending on snow levels.
  11. I proposed to my lovely wife on a forced alpine bivy in wind river range. Good epic.
  12. in addition to the above rec's, try improbable traverse on guye peak. the traverse is easier than it looks. while not alpine, spend weekends up in squamish. Tons of routes to master your multipitch experience. same for icicle canyon in leavenworth. when it is raining in squish. there are more moderates in wa pass to try. burgundy n face, serendipity artete, poster peak, west face south early, n face concord tower, and a couple variations around the beckey route on lib bell. those are a bit step up (5.8-ish) from das toof, but a season craggin at squish and icicle will get you up to speed . fun times ahead!
  13. Mountaineering Ropes

    i may catch grief for this but old ropes are fine for glacier travel. even if they are a bit static-y. the nature of glacier falls is such that the rope cutting into snow takes a bunch of the forces and makes the rope seem dynamic. I am not suggesting to use a static rope like back in the DAY, but an old rope that has lost some stretchiness is not a big deal.
  14. Mountaineering Ropes

    yup to DPS. 50m x 8-ish (whatever on sale) mm rope is great for glacier travel. 60m is kinda long and if there are 5 people in group, bring two ropes.
  15. Mountaineering Ropes

    in an alpine rock environment, 50 meters is a good length. chances are you will experience too much rope drag when making pitches beyond 40 to 50 meters anyway. then you have to deal with that extra length at every pitch change over. I found that teams can go faster with 50 meter ropes, especially if there are short rope sections like on serpentine arete or even on ne butt slesse. Plus alpine rarely do long rappels where a longer rope would be good. shorter rappels make dealing with rope eaters easier. I did almost all of my alpne climbing in a pair of 50m doubles. whether I brought one or two depended on the route. If the rope is too short in the alpine, simu climbing takes care of that. You should be very solid rock climbing and not pushing limits in alpine. Short bits of simu should not be a problem.
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