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genepires

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About genepires

  • Rank
    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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    sharing-hood
  1. Coleman-Deming early June - soloing glacier?

    maybe with some pre planning, you could find another pair of people going for the north ridge that you could make a team of 4 for the approach, then split into two teams of two for the climb and descent. I have been on that part of the glacier (approach to n ridge) in different seasons and I can say that you will be walking over Monster crevasses. That place is so broken up under the winter snow pack. the crevasse patterns sometimes don't make sense either. definately a place to be prepared. The last time I was on it, we did a different than usual tactic. instead of stumbling around on a crevassed glacier in the dark, we approached the ridge in the afternoon, being able to work the way through the maze in daylight. Yes the snow bridges are weaker in the afternoon, but being able to see where we were going was a bigger benefit. (I got a pretty good crack radar) We climbed up the ridge to about a couple rope lengths below the ice cliff where there are several dirt campsites and bivied there. good long restful sleep and climb the cliff at sunrise while the groups are just approaching the ridge itself. not so bad if you can keep your bivy kit light, like light sleeping bag, pad and small stove. the ambience and experience itself is worth the extra weight. ditch the skiis and bivy on the ridge instead.
  2. Snoqualmie Rock guidebook release

    buying directly from author puts more of that money in authors wallet. authors don't really get compensated for the hard work when all they do is sell through merchants. did my preorder. thanks Kurt!
  3. Snoqualmie Rock guidebook release

    you were able to get Honnold to check out the book? I wanna hear that story!
  4. Hike up your skirt a little more And show the world to me
  5. Skins - maintenance

    I was thinking of broken ski pole. May not work depending on your pole. You can always use it picker shut your partners lips if he/she is talking too much smack.
  6. Skins - maintenance

    here is one thing every tour should bring in addition to duct tape, hose clamp, zip ties, first aid and your brain.
  7. Nothing good has ever come out of me in water. does not matter if it is a canoeing a normal river, inner tubing a small creek or even swimming in a damn pool. Water is out to kill me. snow is nothing but water waiting to kill me. Add the patience of a mountain with the vengeance of water and it is always a dance with death. Chris, on the risk prob aspect you mentioned. they are calling a low risk high prob for the one trial, that being the day you are on the slope. your comment of several trials can not be calculated over many trials in the forecast. Not sure where you are going with that concept. not sure why you are bringing up that ruby mtn avi as an example and using that quote. that quote was for that particular avi which was cornice initiated. they are not saying that ALL low prob/high consequence can not be human triggered, just that particular instance. And towards your expectation that the forecast is not specific enough for different users? Are you suggesting that Snowmo guys putting more stress on slope need a different prediction based on their loading parameters? How about users base their own risk knowing that they forecast is based on single person skier loading? Maybe you are expecting too much from the NWAC?
  8. Velcro climbing shoe with ankle protection?

    if you can't find what you need, maybe try wearing socks inside rock shoes? that would work better than wearing socks on the outside of rock shoes.
  9. Skiiers vs snowboarders

    yesterday was a very very good day to be on a single plank. classic cascade concrete. 6 inches of new @34F.
  10. Washington Pass conditions report

    in the depths of winter, can you usually get to the silver star gate or do they close a gate farther down the road like at early winters CG? I know some people snomo around in winter to get access.
  11. Washington Pass conditions report

    How far up the hwy can you drive? Never been over there in the winter.
  12. Washington Pass conditions report

    Mods. Please move this to spray. Chris. For your own well being, you need to drop whatever beef you have with anyone else. This ongoing tension you have and inablility to drop it and move forward is only going to reduce your overall life expectancy. Chill. Relax. Have fun. Live. This is is a free site. You are not privileged to say whatever you want The owners can say and do whatever they want cause they own it. Not you and not me. There is no freedom of speech here but only the graces allowed to us by the owners. The administrator has spoken and it would be well advised to take heed of what was asked of you. This is a community site. People have varied experiences and generally act well to one another. So far as I have seen though, you are a one trick pony whose only contribution is this constant attack on NWAC and TAY. There has to be more to you than this. Share the other parts of your life and make some friends here. When you are hanging out with your friends, do you bombard them with this NWAC conspiracy thing? I doubt it. Share some good photos. Tell inspiring stories. Let us live vicariously through your adventures. and if you can’t stop, there have been others who did not listen and were removed. Do not be surprised. This is not a conspiracy spreading website. peace!
  13. Washington Pass conditions report

    thank you Jon. I appreciate the work that NWAC does.
  14. Lots of hikers

    Defense Department Base Budget DoD requested $597.1 billion. It seeks to: Increase manning levels for all four branches from 1.314 million in 2018 to 1.338 million. A 2.6 percent pay raise for military personnel. It brings total compensation to $61,700 for enlisted personnel and $113,500 for officers. Those figures include tax-free allowances for food and housing. Continuing the Missile Defeat and Defense Enhancement initiative Increase procurement of preferred and advanced munitions. Modernize equipment for the second Army Armored Brigade Combat Team. Buy 10 combat ships. Increase production of the F-35 and F/A-18 aircraft. The F-35 Joint Strike Fighter program cost $400 billion for 2,457 planes, mostly for development and testing. Modernize the nuclear triad too enhance deterrence. Enhance communications in space. Increase the use of technology innovation. don't see the large amount of civilain employees working for DOD. but there are quite a few things we cold do less with in that budget. but there are a few good things in there. Increase procurement of preferred and advanced munitions. Modernize equipment for the second Army Armored Brigade Combat Team. Buy 10 combat ships. Increase production of the F-35 and F/A-18 aircraft. The F-35 Joint Strike Fighter program cost $400 billion for 2,457 planes, mostly for development and testing. Modernize the nuclear triad too enhance deterrence. Enhance communications in space. Increase the use of technology innovation.
  15. Lots of hikers

    a good question is the makeup of the defense budget. I think a good chunk of that 600 billion goes to peoples wages.
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