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genepires last won the day on October 4 2018

genepires had the most liked content!

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About genepires

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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  1. Alpine Dads wanted

    put me on the that list.
  2. Looking for specific harness...

    that is funny cause I thought I was the last person to use leashes. you must have saw my one attempt at it. I did try to climb a pretty steep line on TR and leash less. Pumped out, fell with rope stretch and left those things still implanted in the ice. Fun for training on a woody but for the real deal, I use the crutches of leashes. I am with you on the functionality of extended rappels. I just felt that it is another tool that gets used when needed and not when not needed. for example, I would not extend a rappel for a lightweight someone who had long flowing hair. For a pre rig rappel, makes total sense.
  3. Looking for specific harness...

    to be honest, it has been a while since I was a AMGA trained guide so my observation is a decade old and could have changed since. But if you really have fears that your rappel setup could mechanically fail mid rappel, then by all means attach your backup to a full strength belay loop. The weakest links in the rappel linkages is the anchor, rope and the brake hand. Looking at all the rappel accidents, never has the rappel biner or device broke. Anchors fail, ropes get cut or control of brake is lost. Having taken a rock to the chest mid rappel and almost passing out, my main concern is to prevent the loss of the brake strand. The leg loop is perfectly acceptable for accomplishing this task. And since I rarely extend my rappel device, there is no way to use the autoblock on the belay loop.. but whatever, if you feel there is only one way to perform a task, then flame on.
  4. Looking for specific harness...

    but the bigger issue than brake backups is TIE KNOTS IN END OF ROPES! (speaking from personal experience) That is what kills people.
  5. Looking for specific harness...

    pros and cons to everything right? pro for having friction hitch above device: having the friction hitch above "may help" (or may not) if you rap off the ends of the rope. having the friction hitch below will not help with rap off end of rope con for friction hitch above: seems like always fighting the hitch when it grabs while descending. cavers seem to use the friction device above more often and use those peztl mech grabbers often to be able to release when it grabs. but they like to carry extra gear. But going by the standard guides method of descending. Girth hitch sling to harness (either belay loop or waist/leg loop) with knot and belay device like Dan above mentions. Small prussik loop girth attached to leg loop and then friction hitch of some kind to brake strands. The benefit of going to leg loop is that the hitch is far away from device. if the device hits the hitch, then it will not work. so it all depends on how long your prussik loop is. if it is real short, then you can go to belay loop I find it interesting that people think the leg loop is not strong enough for the job of being a brake backup. lets do a test. which can hold more weight; a leg loop or a firemans backup? (serve same purpose)
  6. Looking for specific harness...

    to add to the gripped article mentioned above, I had a NED moment due to not fully doubling back the harness. On a multipitch, I had to sit on some gear during the first pitch of the climb and at the top belay anchor, noticed that my harness was not doubled back. I guess that body weight was low enough for the harness to stay on but I know that a leader fall would have been death. If it would have been a standard craggin situation, it may have failed on being lowered also.
  7. Looking for specific harness...

    " putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner " the loop for autoblock does not need to be anywhere as strong as a belay loop. We are talking about the small prussik that backs up the brake hand I assume. Basically it needs to be as strong as your hand grip is. the autoblock replaces the hand as a way to apply braking force to the rappel device. I wish my grip strength was in excess of 15Kn pulling force.
  8. Looking for specific harness...

    isn't the only difference between speed buckle and the buckle you speak of that the end of the webbing is sewn over to prevent it from being unthreaded? KNIFE woudl fix that.
  9. Looking for specific harness...

    if that does not pan out, try misty mountain harness. I heard they can customize for a reasonable price.
  10. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    for the middle of summer, I use a sleeping bag liner. One of those down filled 50F bags that is supposed to go inside another bag to boost the temp rating. I also sleep warm and just wear clothes inside. Makes the mornings less hectic if already dressed for day anyways. Fine for even places like rainier in july and is so light and takes up very little space. Consider specific bags if you are a belly or side sleeper. seems like most mummy bags are for back sleepers. I had to buy a FF 20F bag that has a wide top section to allow for arm position while stomach sleeping. Can't remember the name but it seems like more brands are creating such bags now. well worth the extra price for a bag that fits your sleeping sttyle.
  11. Free Solo wins Oscar!

    we were able to buy/download the movie to our PC and watch it for $10 plus some tax. well worth the money.
  12. some other guy selling mammut parka on cc.com also.
  13. Concerning snow pack

    I suspect that layer was the result of that November snow followed by weeks of sun and freeze thaw. Not that unusual for the first couple of snow events to slide on it. A month of dumps will bury it real good. But don’t let my human factor heuristic kill anyone
  14. Looking for a climbing partner/mentor

    I hope you find someone willing to show you around. I suspect most people are uneasy being a mentor but are fine with requests for climbing partners with you being honest about your skills. If you could change your title to just looking for climbing partner and drop the mentor part, you may get more hits. maybe I am wrong and you get a good mentor. FWIW, I did an electrical apprenticeship so my expectations for mentorship may be much more involved than you are expecting. A lot of people got there start using local climbing clubs and when the experience level is adequate, stick with the friendships developed there and to casual internet hookups like this site. But I am old-ish and started in pre internet days so maybe that tract is unnecessary.
  15. question Grivel The Tech Machine Carbon - shaft delamination

    Best answer is from Grivel. While we all think we are pretty smart, we are all just over confident monkeys. Good luck. nice looking ice tool though.