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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. genepires

    High Ice movie

    genepires replied to kmfoerster's topic in Spray

    Vertical Limit stole a lot of ideas from High Ice
  2. genepires
    I wish I climbed something big like south side of hood. really. I do.
  3. genepires
    in the photo of you in the upper basin, roped up for glacier travel and under a couple of large ice blocks, (6th photo) what do you think they are? are they chucks of cornice that fell down? or crevasse blocks? Seems like a strange place for either.
  4. genepires
    We did that climb in mid 90’s and I think we used Grajales also. They didn’t serve food back then. That food looks way better than anything I can make at home!
  5. genepires
    I wonder how many times one would need to climb GNS to call it a el cap day? maybe 20 times? there is a goal right there.
  6. genepires
    you forgot to mention the approach requirement of less than 10 minutes. downhill or maybe flat, both ways. sounds like a good trip to me.
  7. genepires
    or your footwork is 16 times better.
  8. genepires
    I sent some la sportiva shoes to tahoe gripwork and they did some great work with quick turnaround. they only do the La sport shoes though.
  9. genepires
    Good thing I have a fear of falling. I can count all my lead falls on one hand, I don’t even need a thumb. This makes your advice super easy to follow.
  10. genepires
    I like seano reactions. keeping it positive!
  11. genepires
    looks like a fair number of people have climbed it since last major snow storm?
  12. genepires
    not related to roof rack but some general advice for border crossing coming from an actual border guard I met once 1. always have your hands present at border. I usually keep on hand on steering wheel and other hand on window/door casually. Hiding hands is sign of hiding something else. 2.always look at border agent eyes. avoiding eye contact is another give away of hiding something. 3. just tell the truth. they look for facial signs of lies. you can not act your way out of these tells. 4. be somewhat tidy but not too tidy with gear. Look "normal". this may be your stopping point with diy roof rack but if the rest of the points followed, maybe not a real issue. 5. don't be a jack ass or Funny. duh.
  13. genepires
    I am not very familiar with the situation but I thought that it was more of a command and control thing. The sheriff would not be doing the rescues but command the situation and ensure proper education or something like that.
  14. genepires
    the wood is so wet that it can be used to support the frypan over a fire and not burn?
  15. genepires
    local and custom reslinging of cams would be a great niche to get into. Lots of more rock climbers around than ice climbers. Local work would incentivize more frequent sling replacement. (instead of waiting 10 years to finally get around to it) But yeah, expense and liability are a concern I bet.
  16. genepires
    damn that is a well lived and long life.
  17. genepires
    well after the upcoming nuclear winter..........ice climbing with 3 armed mutants.
  18. genepires
    may be quicker to drive to bozeman than hike to the nearest ice.
  19. genepires
    You could always call the shop before there to see if they would into a special order before wasting your time driving there. how about feathered friends, right across from REI? if the clerks don’t give you the service you need, you can always ask for the manager. Not to bust their balls, but to get the ok for special order. may be a bit far but may save you some money is to go to Vancouver, either MEC or some other retailer.
  20. genepires
    Have you tried the American alpine institute shop in Bellingham? When I used to work there, we would carry really small to really large feet boots and def order them if needed. i find it interesting that there are shops staffed by “bruh “. The current online vs brick and mortar shop business battle, customer service for physical shops is the advantage and only saving grace. What has your experience been?
  21. genepires
    do you want a barometer or GPS based altimeter watch? or both? You may not like this answer but maybe just use your smartphone for gps based altitude? Maybe you could make the display large font? some app? If you really want a watch display, maybe a iphone to iwatch app? I am with you on the small screen problem.
  22. genepires
    did you need a telephoto lens to get some of those photos? Seems like dome is pretty damn close but I thought dome was light years from anything else.
  23. genepires
    I like my feet. Getting frostbite and losing toes is not a uncommon occurrence and not to be discounted. If the common wisdom is to use a size larger boot (assuming you can still ski without falling over which may be worse) I would suggest you follow it. It is common wisdom learned from others pain. BTW, I don't ski so my knowledge of what you are doing is Zero. But I have been to denali. We had it nice above 14K. Many others didn't It is a crap shoot so stacking the odds in your favor is always a good thing. There is a good chance of getting the skiing shut down above 14K. Are you ready to be able to hike the rest of the way in your ski boots? Very envious of skiers on the way back to the airstrip, though.
  24. genepires
    damn near centrally located in the darring-town slabbage meca. You can see exfo dome and squire creek wall. and several other slabbages also!
  25. genepires
    Is the hardware still in the leg? I have a friend who had a similar situation and time line as you a couple years ago. He mentioned the huge amount of damage that would happen to the bone if it broke in the same place with the plate still inside. He was able to ice climb but there was pain in the general location the following winter. he had the hardware taken out a couple years after the accident.
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