genepires

I lived in bham for 10 years and it takes a crazy cold winter to form any ice near there. I saw ice at larrabee state park once. But don't ever count on seeing anything around that baker highway. Slim chance of finding stuff around squamish but that is the best place to look when a cold snap strikes. Or out the fraser valley. Keep alert cause the cold snaps are brief.

Drove to l'worth to check things out. It is raining pretty good over there. Lots of snow has melted out or had avalached off down to the base. Very scary time to be had out there right now. -lower half of pencil is gone-upper half of drury is raging waterfall-hubba bubba is half gone (half of it is exposed dirt) A large avalanches ripped right down it and probably ripped the hollow ice right off.-rainbow falls is still not in save the drive if you are planning on coming over.

Looking for a ride to the cody ice festival which is in late febuary, presidents day weekend I believe. Something like feb. 15-19. Will split expenses of course. Will be meeting friends there but will also climb with whoever needs partners. Reply soon. [ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: genepires ]

I have been using those super feet for the last three years and they are worth the money. Weird thing is that there is very little cushioning in it (maybe because it is three years old) but I don't notice anything. The way it pushes the arches up, it keeps the toes from getting pushed into the front of the boot. Go REI return with something you found in the dumpster (maybe the rei dumpster?) and take the credit to get the super feet. That's what I did.

I posted this report in another section on this site but thought it would be better here. Hubba is thin throughout. Take only 17cm or shorter screws. tie off screamers good idea. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows lots. Pins for the belay would be nice or find the holes I punched through the hollow ice near the only pillar there. If it snows alot, beware of avi condition on the walk off. The slopes are steep enough to go big. have fun and be safe

We just did hubba today and it hasn't changed much since these last reports. Bring screws shorter than 17cm and those tie off screamers. Good luck finding ice anchors. I tunneled away to make a pillar to wrap. Bring pins for those belays. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows between now and when you show up. Good luck and have fun! gene

thanks all for the advice gene

It is that time of the year, driving to canada and getting hit by rocks from the big semi's. I heard a bit of advice for preventing cracks from chips from spreading outwards. I thought I would see if anyone has tried this. I heard that you could score a small line (say 1 inch long) in front of the lengthening crack (perpendicular to each other) to stop the crack from going further. Maybe with a glass cutter or a sharp ice pick. Has anyone tried this and found it successfull?

Seen other posts like this on this site and the responce is the same. What are you gonna use them for? Pure ice climbing? Stick with good leathers like nepal tops. I've the uninsulated one for 4 years now and love them for pure ice. Never even had a cold foot, but I would hate to walk 10 miles in them. Summer glacier walks? Look at the alpha boot. Light and comfortable for long wet walks. Might even be good ice. Denali? Stick with the invernos or something warmer. Doing it all? You will have to buy multiple boots and not complain of the price. There is no boot that does it all. No matter what the goof in the store will tell you. Suck it up and spend the cash. You won't notice the price when you are out there. gene

If you have midweek days off we should hook up for some winter climbing. As of about dec 10, I will be free from the working hell. Drop me a line at genepires@hotmail.com if interested. Looking for lots ice climbing and alpine stuff.

Seems like most of these replies have said that dropping the tool was not a problem. Well, I must be a geek cause I almost lost my cobras 3 times during a week at ouray. If the hand stays at the bottom of the shaft, then there is no problem. But if you have a tendency to grab the head of the axe, like during low angle ice technique, then the hand pushes down on the clip and releases it unknowingly. Luckily every time I caught it before losing it, once while the tool was falling. Anyway, I love them for hard ice bit wouldn't use it alpine or low angle ice or anywhere where losing the tool would be a disaster. (like multi pitch) For those I throw on the lockdowns which rule.

The conditions from two weeks ago don't apply today. The freezing level has been very high this last couple of weeks. Something like 6000 to 7000 ft. This is above the snout of the coleman. The snow could be gone but will still be brittle which is good if you are trainig for winter ice climbing. Go for it. Bet you could park at the trailhead.

The rain is on the way so go east. I am told that maude is mush drier than the west side even for being a mountain. Ingals is another good rainy west side bet. Bet it will be crowded now. Oops, I did it again.

Rain is on the way. Forget about darrington till next spring. Think snow sports and struggle with the crust.

Cat in the hat and olive oil rules as climbs but you must expect a long line at those. For that time of the year people flock to the south facing climbs (which olive oil and cat in the hat are)and most of the other good stuff is north facing. If it is relativly warm, go to frogland in black velvet canyon or lotta balls. (both north facing) If it is cold, then go do Johnny Vegas. All south facing, fun, likely to have it to yourself, bolted anchors, and about 5 pitches. If you do Olive oil, get there before7 am. If you get stuck behind people, the going is very slow and the shade comes down to the low pitches around 11am. Also merge the first 2 pitches together (the guide book is so wrong about these lengths) and the 3rd and 4th together as well. Bring a 0 tcu. Cat in the hat needs a early start too. same reason except never gets any shade. except at night. Last pitch goes around the corner and not up the obvious bolt line (10b). Enjoy the red rocks and go in the casino for night time fun.

Beck is right on. You have to ask, what conditions will you be in? What do you need? I only use the goretex in the summer (when it is raining hard and I have to stand around in it ) and boarding in bounds. For alpine stuff in the winter, stick to more breathable stuff. If it is raining in the winter, you should be going home anyway.

Conditions for Hunter? I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though. But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing. I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line. genepires@hotmail.com

Conditions for Hunter? I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though. But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing. I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line. gene

The classic boot debate. I have been using la sportiva nepal tops for the last 6 years and that is all that I like for winter ice climbing. That is the only boot that I felt could keep the heels locked down while front pointing. I've tried the koflach arctis and no matter how tight I crank the laces, my feet won't stay down. Scary feelling actually. The boot is sized for expeditions so there lies the problem. If cash is not a problem then a pair of plastics for summer slogs and a extreme nepal top (insulated) for winter would be a good bet. Feet don't get wet in the winter from any running water just sweat which shouldn't be bad either. If cash is a problem, try the new scarpa boot alpha. Looks like a great ice boot and summer walker boot. I got one this fall and only had a chance to wear it on the inside walls but the heals stayed own very nice. Go try some at feathered friends.

I was just looking at gauthier's rainier book and was thinking of doing the ledge route again. I tried that route about 8 winters ago and got to the top of the ledges. If you are still looking for people then count me in. Looking back though I think allowing 3 or 4 days to do it would be a good idea. Allowing for weather to pin us down at muir for a day and not remove any chance of summiting, would be a good idea. email me at genepires@hotmail.com

I took the WMI WFR course cause they had one in bellingham which was convient. Good course and they have these courses in other places too. I think there are about 5 different organizations to get wfr's. SOLO, american alpine institute (up in b'ham) also have courses. Unfortunately though, like all things, if you don't use it, you lose it. So lets hope that we all lose it.

There was a company called C&S here in western washington that made all kinds of aiding gear. They have a industrial stitcher and do sewing. From what I have heard, don't ask them to make quick draws though.

I got these two books from the public library and they rock. Geoff Child's Stone Palaces and Twight's Kiss or Kill. Both written with passion and introspection instead of who did what and who is to blame.

lots of climbs in canada can be done with bike approaches (at least part way) since many have old logging road approaches. Habrich and skypilot, chehalis range come to mind.

reply to Don's message "petzl is creating a demand for a peice of equipment that is not usefull for most climbers" Was someone creating a demand when tubular belay devices came out? Figure eight devices where working fine right? Gear and techniques evolve with time. Belaying off the anchor is a smart thing for multiple reasons such as it allows one to perform multiple tasks while safely belaying. (thereby moving faster) Of course this device is not good for anchors that are less than ideal (like snow anchors) where having the belayer's stance part of the anchor adds strength.