genepires

If you have midweek days off we should hook up for some winter climbing. As of about dec 10, I will be free from the working hell. Drop me a line at genepires@hotmail.com if interested. Looking for lots ice climbing and alpine stuff.

Seems like most of these replies have said that dropping the tool was not a problem. Well, I must be a geek cause I almost lost my cobras 3 times during a week at ouray. If the hand stays at the bottom of the shaft, then there is no problem. But if you have a tendency to grab the head of the axe, like during low angle ice technique, then the hand pushes down on the clip and releases it unknowingly. Luckily every time I caught it before losing it, once while the tool was falling. Anyway, I love them for hard ice bit wouldn't use it alpine or low angle ice or anywhere where losing the tool would be a disaster. (like multi pitch) For those I throw on the lockdowns which rule.

The conditions from two weeks ago don't apply today. The freezing level has been very high this last couple of weeks. Something like 6000 to 7000 ft. This is above the snout of the coleman. The snow could be gone but will still be brittle which is good if you are trainig for winter ice climbing. Go for it. Bet you could park at the trailhead.

The rain is on the way so go east. I am told that maude is mush drier than the west side even for being a mountain. Ingals is another good rainy west side bet. Bet it will be crowded now. Oops, I did it again.

Rain is on the way. Forget about darrington till next spring. Think snow sports and struggle with the crust.

Cat in the hat and olive oil rules as climbs but you must expect a long line at those. For that time of the year people flock to the south facing climbs (which olive oil and cat in the hat are)and most of the other good stuff is north facing. If it is relativly warm, go to frogland in black velvet canyon or lotta balls. (both north facing) If it is cold, then go do Johnny Vegas. All south facing, fun, likely to have it to yourself, bolted anchors, and about 5 pitches. If you do Olive oil, get there before7 am. If you get stuck behind people, the going is very slow and the shade comes down to the low pitches around 11am. Also merge the first 2 pitches together (the guide book is so wrong about these lengths) and the 3rd and 4th together as well. Bring a 0 tcu. Cat in the hat needs a early start too. same reason except never gets any shade. except at night. Last pitch goes around the corner and not up the obvious bolt line (10b). Enjoy the red rocks and go in the casino for night time fun.

Beck is right on. You have to ask, what conditions will you be in? What do you need? I only use the goretex in the summer (when it is raining hard and I have to stand around in it ) and boarding in bounds. For alpine stuff in the winter, stick to more breathable stuff. If it is raining in the winter, you should be going home anyway.

Conditions for Hunter? I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though. But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing. I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line. genepires@hotmail.com

Conditions for Hunter? I've only been there one season but I'll say what I saw. There were lots of people heading to do moonflower in the latter half of may. People where trying the west buttress too. By early June, moonflower was pretty vacant. I think lots of the ice are gone. The W buttress should be ok in june though. But a question was lurking in my head. What do you call "in condition". As far as snow conditions go, the snow pack will never get like the cascade's summer pack. The snow just gets from fluffy to mushy and then stays that way till the end of the summer season. (due to the intense long sun, dry snow, ect ect) The snow should be firm above 10,000 ft due to wind blowing scouring. At the bases though be ready for long post holing. I am thinking of trying the west buttress (as well as other things too) next season. So if anybody is interested,then drop me a line. gene

The classic boot debate. I have been using la sportiva nepal tops for the last 6 years and that is all that I like for winter ice climbing. That is the only boot that I felt could keep the heels locked down while front pointing. I've tried the koflach arctis and no matter how tight I crank the laces, my feet won't stay down. Scary feelling actually. The boot is sized for expeditions so there lies the problem. If cash is not a problem then a pair of plastics for summer slogs and a extreme nepal top (insulated) for winter would be a good bet. Feet don't get wet in the winter from any running water just sweat which shouldn't be bad either. If cash is a problem, try the new scarpa boot alpha. Looks like a great ice boot and summer walker boot. I got one this fall and only had a chance to wear it on the inside walls but the heals stayed own very nice. Go try some at feathered friends.

I was just looking at gauthier's rainier book and was thinking of doing the ledge route again. I tried that route about 8 winters ago and got to the top of the ledges. If you are still looking for people then count me in. Looking back though I think allowing 3 or 4 days to do it would be a good idea. Allowing for weather to pin us down at muir for a day and not remove any chance of summiting, would be a good idea. email me at genepires@hotmail.com

I took the WMI WFR course cause they had one in bellingham which was convient. Good course and they have these courses in other places too. I think there are about 5 different organizations to get wfr's. SOLO, american alpine institute (up in b'ham) also have courses. Unfortunately though, like all things, if you don't use it, you lose it. So lets hope that we all lose it.

There was a company called C&S here in western washington that made all kinds of aiding gear. They have a industrial stitcher and do sewing. From what I have heard, don't ask them to make quick draws though.

I got these two books from the public library and they rock. Geoff Child's Stone Palaces and Twight's Kiss or Kill. Both written with passion and introspection instead of who did what and who is to blame.

lots of climbs in canada can be done with bike approaches (at least part way) since many have old logging road approaches. Habrich and skypilot, chehalis range come to mind.

reply to Don's message "petzl is creating a demand for a peice of equipment that is not usefull for most climbers" Was someone creating a demand when tubular belay devices came out? Figure eight devices where working fine right? Gear and techniques evolve with time. Belaying off the anchor is a smart thing for multiple reasons such as it allows one to perform multiple tasks while safely belaying. (thereby moving faster) Of course this device is not good for anchors that are less than ideal (like snow anchors) where having the belayer's stance part of the anchor adds strength.

Tom Hargis taught me a trick to deal with releasing the load from a loaded gi-gi which should work for the reverso as well. The other answers given calls for releasing the weight off the bar biber. (the rope goes around this biner in both the reverso and gi-gi) Tom showed me a way to lever the device to make it horizontal, then it becomes a stitch plate and you can lower like normal. Take a sling and girth hitch it to the lower hole on the gi-gi. For the reverso, girth hitch longer metal loop. (the one clipped into the biner when rappelling) Take the sling and pass it up through a biner in the anchor somewhere and clip it into the harness. Lean back and lever the device horizontal. Keep a grip on the brake hand and lower. I've done it on the gi-gi but not the reverso. To feed out slack, I've moved the device horizontal by hand to pull out as much slack as needed. These devices have an advantage if ever you need to lift a partner up a climb. I've had to do this but I doubt that you all will ever need to do this. Like rescue skills, a good thing to know. While belaying off the anchor with either the gi-gi or reverso, put small prussick on loaded end of rope. Put a biner on this prussik and it will become a weak pulley. Take unloaded end of rope and clip it in that pulley biner. Now you have a inefficient 3:1 pulley system. (probably a 2.5:1) It works good for when partners fall off on a steep climb and can't touch the rock to get going again. Or falling early on the second pitch of canary. I wish I could take credit for this but Tom taught me this too. Props to him.

I don't use the daisy chain either but lots of my friends do. They use both the rope and the daisy to clip into anchors. Whatever makes them feel safe. But to stash the daisy while climbing and not get it in the way, they swing the daisy between the legs and clip the daisy onto the back gear loop. Clip an appropriate loop on the daisy as to not have it hang to low (getting it caught around knees) and not too tight (floss your bung hole). As a general rule, it always better to use a cordelette to make the anchor. If something bad happens and you have to escape the belay, it is much easier to get out if your rope or daisies are not involved with the equalization of the anchor. Also, the cordelette can become rappel anchors. (try that with a daisy or the precious climbing rope) Where's the naked chicks?

Hey D, Get the grivel air tech racing and it won't let ya down. Really light and I've known 4 people use it on n ridge of baker with no failure. Relatively cheap too. I've seen a lightweight kong axe break while self arresting. What good is that? I will fight the trend and say that one can go too light. Don't be one of those stories ("unprepared victims") we hear about. Instead climb with me and I will carry the rope/rack.

I was going across the border two weeks ago and the Canadian guard informed us that we would be needing passports or birth certificates with photo ID. He let us in but informed us of the probable changes. Has anyone been up north lately and seen these changes?

Recently moved back this way and found some things that I don't use anymore. northface ve25 ground sheet $8 attic $8 trango boots size 10.5 $93 zoom headlamp $18 (with AA converter pack) kong ultra light helmet $30 (too small for my head) Marmot trango primaloft jacket large blue $90 Lowe ninja fleece pant. medium blk $60 wild country mountain tent, unused $280 send me an email make a deal. [This message has been edited by genepires (edited 10-17-2001).]

Just came back from icicle creek and I discovered many missing hangers at both clamshell cave and barny's rubble. All of Barny's rubble hangers are missing. (that's four stations) About half of clamshell cave's hangers are gone too and the only ones that are still there are the ones that were apoxied. Does anyone have a idea why this is happening? (something about the fire?) If you are going to icicle bring either hangers or stoppers for the anchors. (don't forget the nuts for the studs too)

I have an andista and have used it tons for the last 3 summers. Great pack and I have been violating the 40 pound rule many times. It has worked fine for many 6 day trips as long as you think light is right.

I am looking for a ski with randonee binding. Doesn't have to be a rocking good setup, just enough to get me sliding horizontal to ice climbs. Prefer cheap. You can email me at genepires@hotmail.com or thru this site.