kmfoerster

Sweet! Wild hair is a pretty awesome route, and the NE ridge of the Chopping Block should not be missed either. Looks like a fun trip!

I think a certain couple got the second ascent of this recently…

Probably great for training but I wouldn’t expect them to be fun. Unless you consider standard treadmills to be fun.

Also, thanks for linking your East Ridge tr!

Great trip, great company! Amazing photos as always Jason. I thought the route was far more interesting than some of the other steep snow climbs in the range.

“My conclusion is that touching a chin on a summit would count as summiting but don't blame me if you develop a rash.” STD, summit transmitted disease?

Trip: Mclellan Peak - NE Couloir Trip Date: 05/02/2021 Trip Report: My friend Matt and I climbed the NE Couloir of Mclellan earlier this month. I've been intrigued by it since seeing an old Jens Holsten blog post a couple years ago and not being able to find anything else about it otherwise. Theres a brief mention of a route on Mclellan in the WA ice guidebook. I waffled about writing this up because I think the Stuart Range doesn't have a lot of options for solitude. I'm sure people will still flock to the usual spring classics. I settled on doing a more lazy, bare bones style trip report on this to shed some light. Social media is your best friend for seeing conditions of popular faces in the range. The route is fairly short. Similar in length and difficulty to the NW Couloir of Eldorado. Its likely to be easier early season (duh), but it seems likely to have large cornices at the snowfield/ridge at the top out. Theres two exit options, the left (hidden, except maybe from the northwest) being shorter and slightly easier. This gives a bit of contingency with route and cornice conditions. In the conditions we had I'd say it was WI3. First two pitches, taken later in the morning on the decent back to camp: Matt coming up firm snow after the first ice pitch: Second pitch: Early April 2017. The first ice pitch is completely buried: Gear Notes: Pins, screws, rock pro to 1". Emphasis on small gear. Pickets if you'd like, we didn't take any. Approach Notes: Snow Lakes. Leave the trail at the western-most footbridge above Upper Snow Lake. Decend via the standard route.

Nice meeting yall!!

Sweet! Thats been on my mind since stumbling across the 2009 tr a couple years ago.

I'd like to think that we all have a little Gen. Weakness and Maj. Junkshow in us. It sounds like the kind conditions that would have me cursing up a storm. Those who have seen it know. Its called "Going post-hole".

The small part of me that felt slightly bad for staying home and not coming along on Monday has vanished at the words of pain and post-holing. Incredible views and awesome photos as always though!! Is that General Weakness or Major Junkshow in the third to last photo?

Nice work! That curtain looks gnar!

https://www.stitchbackgear.com Here's a good diy gear and mod site for anyone feeling crafty over the winter. Good articles on everything from poo trowels to packs..

Was an excellent day indeed! Towards Baker Lake A true Cascade hard-man goes nowhere without his yellow hard-man pad. We thought we'd lost them to the surrounding clouds, but Kulshan and Shuksan ended up putting on a show.

Yeah massive bummer about the W/NWD not being used anymore. It's honestly the best iteration of a full dyneema fabric I've seen or used. That Spectra black quad seems similar to the dyneema grid ripstop used everywhere, but with more strands of dyneema and better abrasion resistance.