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[TR] Lemolo Peak (erstwhile Hardest Mox) - NE Buttress ("After Hours") V 5.10- R 9/12/2008

lunger

By lunger
in North Cascades

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lunger
lunger

Trip: Lemolo Peak (erstwhile Hardest Mox) - NE Buttress ("After Hours") V 5.10- R   Date: 9/12/2008   Trip Report: Summary: On 9/12 and 9/13/2008, Rolf Larson and Eric Wehrly climbed the NE B

Skeezix
Skeezix

Nice use of "insouciance."

rat
rat

i suspect there are quite a few people who post or lurk here that would enjoy this route and probably could do it in a very long day rt from camp. difficulties are concentrated in the middle third.

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lunger Top Roper

lunger

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Thanks for the comments y'all.

 

Rolf or I will put a line on John's picture; we do recommend the route, tons of good climbing on well-featured rock with the requisite dollop of alpine choss. 4 or 5 stars in our books.

 

I got a couple reactions to the TR that prompt me to clarify: the bit I wrote about mutual disrespect, etc. is a (perhaps poor) satirical treatment of the caricature of Rolf by me and some of his friends. It's for my own entertainment--if you know him, you know he's a good dude, much like most folks around here, except perhaps with higher standards... and the ability to send the sickness when I pulled up lame. The abusive talk is in jest and adds levity when commiserating through a shiver-bivy or other setback. Enough of that.

 

Lots of people getting cool stuff done in the Cascades this year--I'm stoked that we added a morsel to a productive season in the home range. Also happy to share any info. with future interested parties.

rat Explorer

rat

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MoxSE_07_03_78_9_john_roper_labeled.JPGlemolo_hardest_mox--northeast_buttress_labeled.JPG

 

i suspect there are quite a few people who post or lurk here that would enjoy this route and probably could do it in a very long day rt from camp. difficulties are concentrated in the middle third. the remainder has climbing up to 5.8 or so. we bivvied in the 3rd class terrain near the snowpatch shown on john roper's photo. this would just be a standard route in the canadian rockies.

 

thanks to john roper and john scurlock for the photos.

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AlpineK Boulderer

AlpineK

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They don't have devils club on the Alberta side of the Rockies. It can't stand the Albertans.

 

And all the limestone is waiting to fall on anyone foolish enough to get close. Albertan or not.

 

Nice route btw :tup:

DirtyHarry Gumby

DirtyHarry

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Eric (Lunger) went climbing three times this summer. Once he went to Index. The other time he did a first ascent on Tilly's Tower. And the third he climbed this. Something to be said for quality over quantity.

ivan Gumby

ivan

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Mox was Wolfe's 2nd alpine climb....can't be too hard, eh?

dude! you can't go taking on some big alpine-junkie climb w/o first tackling the mighty toof - can you?!?

JayB Gumby

JayB

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Sick.

 

Both parts of this duo consistently set the action/talk bar mighty high.

 

Looking at the photos is a vivid reminder of how much credit the original crew deserves for pushing into the unknown.

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