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JayB

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JayB last won the day on July 9 2019

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About JayB

  • Rank
    sprayer
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  • Occupation
    Lab-Rat
  • Location
    Capitol Hill
  1. That was us, back in 2003. It was the most memorable climb of my life, by far, but I'm not sure that it's in the same league as the routes on the list above. Part of the reason for that is that - based on pictures I've seen - it goes from a mixed route that with a flow that rarely (I think) touches down in the late fall/early winter, to a pretty non-descript looking steepish snow slope by the time that spring rolls around.
  2. I also seem to remember a route that Necromonicon/Choada_Boy and two others (Dberdinka and genepires?) put up in the vicinity of Sloan back in the winter of 04/05? Very aesthetic, narrow mixed couloir. Anyone recall that one? Edit - looks like it's up there. Route on Whitechuck.
  3. When I scanned the list and tried to recall anything that might not have made the list, the Haley-Burdick route on Summit Chief came to mind. The first hit on Google was the NWMJ (link below) which would be a great place to skim through for other forgotten climbs. I haven't kept up with the AAJ for at least a decade, so I know my perception is heavily biased by losing track of what's been going on, but I'll always remember the aughts as a "Golden Age" of mountaineering in the PNW. This site provided an incredible venue where people could hook up with new partners and intel for new routes that seemed to drive a significant uptick in new route activity. Or maybe it just made what had always been going on more visible and accessible. Whatever the case - it was a glorious time and the new routes that were born in that era deserve to be remembered, and - at least some deserve - to be repeated. I was just looking up at Mt. Index the other day while kayaking down the Skykomish and was telling someone that I was only aware of one route up the face (EDM) and didn't think it had been repeated. I totally forgot about Ade's route, and there are probably others as well. Anyhow - great thread. Kudos to the OP for sifting through the archives. http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/04/041_Shorts.html
  4. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    Makes me wonder if this is something that could be addressed with legislation at the State level. I can't imagine anyone believing that your average Sheriff's deputy has any business doing front-line wilderness rescue work. I also can't imagine that the response from the public will be favorable when and if there's a need for a rescue in the mountains and someone has to explain to the family and the public why the search and rescue resources that used to be available no longer are.
  5. Hey Ethan: Thanks for reaching out. I'd suggest posting at washingtonflyfishing.com as well.
  6. Wonder if the climber in question was Walt Shipley? Sadly prophetic if that was the case.
  7. IIRC there was a bit of a lull in usage not that long ago - maybe in the wake of the prolonged hangover from the tech bust? If that actually happened, I'd chalk it up to a minor halt in the in-migration of the young, single, childless types that make up a disproportionate share of the climbing demographic. On the flip side, I'd be willing to bet that the massive, sustained hiring binge at Amazon, etc over the past decade-plus has made an outsized contribution to the crowds I keep hearing about. Strangely, I haven't noticed much of an uptick in the numbers of people kayaking. Seems like numbers are holding steady at best.
  8. Donny Baker Lives!

    https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/profile/20452-donnybaker/
  9. Cool idea - thanks for sharing the route and all of the beta.
  10. Suggestions on where to live

    Based on your requirements, I'd rule out just about anyplace west of the Cascades for an infinity of reasons. Focus on Leavenworth/Mazama. If you are willing to live up to 30 minutes away you may find that rates are a bit more reasonable. Probably not much of a singles scene in Chumstick or Cashmere, but life's all about tradeoffs. Also - if you are mostly into rock climbing, then Walla Walla is worth a look. Between the wine scene and the presence of a small liberal arts college, it punches above its weight culturally for a town its size, has reasonable access to crags, is right next to the blue mountains, etc. There's a geology professor at Whitman named Kevin Pogue who's been active for decades that could give you a pretty good rundown on what it's like to live there.
  11. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Have you noticed any seasonal pattern with the rockfall? The story I've been telling myself is that most of the "exfoliation" out there happens when things start to heat up in the spring. Water percolates in to the cracks in the winter, repeated freeze thaw cycles lead to frost-jacking, and when the melt kicks in during the spring the ice-shrinkage plus lubrication provided by the liquid water plus gravity equals big-time rockfall followed by a quieter period once the annual shed is over and done with. Does this story I've been telling myself fit in with what you observed or is this just a baseless fantasy that I've cooked up?
  12. Great find - thanks for posting the link.
  13. Sort of surprised to see the data point from the Willis Wall in 2011. The only WW climb I can recall was Loren and Jens' ascent as a party of two around that time. Anyone recall any other WW ascents? Kind of interesting that most of the activity on Willis Wall, from what I can recall, was in the early 60's through the mid-70's, which coincides with the post WWII cold period. My sense is that it's just a coincidence that that period of time just happened to be when the rest of the mountain had been climbed out and Willis Wall was the only place left people seeking out first ascents could go for FAs on big lines. Having said that, I wonder if the colder, snowier conditions made those lines more or less dangerous. I could see it going either way. Always Russian roulette, but interesting to contemplate from an armchair a long way away from that face.
  14. Tragic. Unless you're one of the loved one's left behind here's something ineffable about the vast and never-ending spiral of grief that you know that incidents like this are going leave in their wake. Sort of like the emotional equivalent of dark matter. You know it's out there, and it's massive, searing, and life changing, but if you're far enough removed from the incident you can't really see it, feel it, or appreciate its true magnitude. ------------------------- I think I can remember a TR from Alpinfox from way back that mentioned sitting in their tent when a garbage-can-lid sized wheel of death that ripped right between himself and his partner when they were sitting in their tent. Literally just chilling in their tent one second, certain death pass inches away from both of them a second later, both of them getting eyes wide as saucers a second later, then spending the rest of the night crouched low in their tents with their helmets on, with their full packs braced between themselves and whatever else might come raining down in the middle of the night. Terrifying.
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