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JayB last won the day on July 9

JayB had the most liked content!

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About JayB

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Capitol Hill
  1. Donny Baker Lives!

  2. Suggestions on where to live

    Based on your requirements, I'd rule out just about anyplace west of the Cascades for an infinity of reasons. Focus on Leavenworth/Mazama. If you are willing to live up to 30 minutes away you may find that rates are a bit more reasonable. Probably not much of a singles scene in Chumstick or Cashmere, but life's all about tradeoffs. Also - if you are mostly into rock climbing, then Walla Walla is worth a look. Between the wine scene and the presence of a small liberal arts college, it punches above its weight culturally for a town its size, has reasonable access to crags, is right next to the blue mountains, etc. There's a geology professor at Whitman named Kevin Pogue who's been active for decades that could give you a pretty good rundown on what it's like to live there.
  3. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Have you noticed any seasonal pattern with the rockfall? The story I've been telling myself is that most of the "exfoliation" out there happens when things start to heat up in the spring. Water percolates in to the cracks in the winter, repeated freeze thaw cycles lead to frost-jacking, and when the melt kicks in during the spring the ice-shrinkage plus lubrication provided by the liquid water plus gravity equals big-time rockfall followed by a quieter period once the annual shed is over and done with. Does this story I've been telling myself fit in with what you observed or is this just a baseless fantasy that I've cooked up?
  4. Great find - thanks for posting the link.
  5. Sort of surprised to see the data point from the Willis Wall in 2011. The only WW climb I can recall was Loren and Jens' ascent as a party of two around that time. Anyone recall any other WW ascents? Kind of interesting that most of the activity on Willis Wall, from what I can recall, was in the early 60's through the mid-70's, which coincides with the post WWII cold period. My sense is that it's just a coincidence that that period of time just happened to be when the rest of the mountain had been climbed out and Willis Wall was the only place left people seeking out first ascents could go for FAs on big lines. Having said that, I wonder if the colder, snowier conditions made those lines more or less dangerous. I could see it going either way. Always Russian roulette, but interesting to contemplate from an armchair a long way away from that face.
  6. Tragic. Unless you're one of the loved one's left behind here's something ineffable about the vast and never-ending spiral of grief that you know that incidents like this are going leave in their wake. Sort of like the emotional equivalent of dark matter. You know it's out there, and it's massive, searing, and life changing, but if you're far enough removed from the incident you can't really see it, feel it, or appreciate its true magnitude. ------------------------- I think I can remember a TR from Alpinfox from way back that mentioned sitting in their tent when a garbage-can-lid sized wheel of death that ripped right between himself and his partner when they were sitting in their tent. Literally just chilling in their tent one second, certain death pass inches away from both of them a second later, both of them getting eyes wide as saucers a second later, then spending the rest of the night crouched low in their tents with their helmets on, with their full packs braced between themselves and whatever else might come raining down in the middle of the night. Terrifying.
  7. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Hey, who's this guy? "Hydrologist and geoscientist Drew Brayshaw, who has climbed extensively in the area, says it appears the first slide sent a flow of debris more than four km down Cerise Creek, east of Joffre Lakes Provincial Park." https://www.citynews1130.com/2019/05/18/major-slides-rip-away-north-face-of-joffre-peak-near-pemberton-b-c/
  8. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I always wondered about those routes when I looked at them in the Beckey guide. Anyone know if there are any recorded ascents other than the FA's?
  9. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Did the a lower part of the Girth Pilar on Stuart fall off ~10-12 years ago? Think the route still goes but the lower pitches changed?
  10. Mountain Man Morovitz

    Great story of a N. Cascades pioneer at the link for those interested in such things. "Morovits' renown as a mountaineer began to spread through the Northwest after July of 1908, when Seattle's Mountaineers, bent on ascent of Mount Baker via a new route pioneered between Park and Boulder glaciers by Joe, camped 54 strong near Baker Lake on the long pack-in from the terminus of a logging train then reaching through to Concrete. "He strode into camp with a 100-pound pack on his back like the mountain itself in human form," wrote one of the club members. "A Bohemian, he wore the mustache of a French Canadian. He wasn't more than 5 feet 9 inches in height, weight around 170 pounds, but he was of a close-knit, muscular build with remarkable girth of chest, belling out immediately under his chin and tapering to a small waist. His great arms hung near his knees. An impressive man of swarthy, wild appearance, he had a look of will power and determination about him to match his physical prowess. Without equipment of any kind except for a long pike of fir tipped with. a self-made contrivance of steel shaped like -the bowl of a large spoon, he had made all the major climbs of the area, seeking out the most violent routes up the mountains as a 'pastime' compared to the hardships of running a one-man mine and stamp mill." http://www.croatia.org/crown/croatians/www.croatians.com/MOUNTAIN MAN MOROVICH.htm
  11. The Ptarmigan Traverse seems like a good candidate for you. https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/ptarmigan-traverse
  12. Great find - thanks for sharing! Kudos to you for making the discover and getting after it. My hunch is that it probably takes the somewhat unusual combination of conditions that we've had recently to bring these lines into shape, and that may have at least something to do with the lack of activity. Having said that - you had the boots on the ground, so what do you think? Are these lines that will reliably form up and be in condition most winters? IIRC - there was an area that was discovered in the early 2000's that seemed to get lots of interest at the time, and I haven't heard much about it since. Not sure if it's because the conditions needed for it to form up were kind of ephemeral, or that I haven't swung a tool since 2008. Maybe some folks that have been more active can chime in. http://www.alpinedave.com/ice/ice_climbing4/ice_climbing4.htm
  13. Way to get it done - thanks for the cool TR. That one's been on my tick list for far longer, and will probably stay there for the next decade or so. In the meantime, TR's like yours help keep the embers glowing...
  14. Sent a message to your Gmail account.