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JayB last won the day on July 9 2019

JayB had the most liked content!

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About JayB

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Capitol Hill
  1. One big magazine

    We've seen the future, and it's a single publication called "Series of Aspirational Outdoor Lifestyle Product Ads With an Editorial Viewpoint." Seriously though, I think that declining circulations and ad revenue will force publishers to consolidate lots of titles under one roof and eliminate as many redundant admin-type jobs as possible. Don't think it'd ever rise to a level of consolidation that would constitute an actual monopoly (not sure anyone would notice or care if it did) but when all is said and done I think there'll probably be way fewer titles operating as part of a handful of conglomerates. I can't bring myself to crack open the cover of any magazine that has been integrated into the intersectional borg and published articles like "It's Time to Confront the Latent White Heteronormativity Embedded in the Titanium Spork" so the number of outdoor magazines that I have any interest in reading is rapidly declining to zero.
  2. One big magazine

    The way the market is going for print media I think it's only a matter of time before all outdoor publications coalesce into a single publishing syndicate.
  3. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Thanks! Bikes possible on the spur road, or is it too overgrown/log-choked to make that feasible?
  4. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Aha. Thanks for investing all of the time and effort to upgrade those bolts - long runouts and rusty/mank make for a poor combination. Incidentally - how long is the hike now? It's been ages since I've been in there, but it used to be you'd drive up the main road, take the right onto the decommissioned spur road until you couldn't drive any further, and then it was about 45 minutes from there.
  5. Conditions Report: Static Point

    Thanks for putting in the work out there. Still have one or two of the rusty old 1/4" Leeper numbers off of the route just left of Online ("The Fly?" or was it "American Pie"?) from when I helped some folks replace the original bolts on those routes ~15+ years ago. I seem to remember most of the bolts on Online being modern 3/8" expansion bolts back then, except at the anchors where there was usually a remnant Leeper in addition to a modern bolt. This was probably back in '02 or '03, so it's possible they rusted out if they weren't stainless. Also possible that my recollection is off. The crux pitch on Online always produced the desired/dreaded slab climbing zen state, and I'm glad I had the chance to experience the route 2-3 times in it's original state, although I'm also sure I'll also enjoy the route in its current incarnation as well if I make it back there. I'm assuming the bolts were added to the crux pitch. Anywhere else? As an aside, I can remember that way back in the oughts in a bygone era when long, tedious arguments about retro-bolting were the coin of the realm on message boards, I'd often chide the purists by saying something to the effect of "An extra bolt only changes the character of the route if you clip it. If you're such a hardass, skip the bolt that you object to." That was more of a taunt than a serious argument, but it's sort of cosmically ironic that if there is an extra-bolt on the crux pitch I'll face the prospect of being haunted by my own taunts from yesteryear....
  6. Volunteer Park Water Tower

    Yeah. You'll have to do way better than that to rile up the locals. Wearing a t-shirt with "Soy is Murder!" in large block letter on the back while you're cranking out your laps ought to do the trick....
  7. Volunteer Park Water Tower

    Something about the times we're living in gives me reason to believe that anyone reporting your transgressions at the tower will not be able to persuade a dispatcher to send a LEO to enforce the ban. It'd actually be kind of interesting to see how many misdemeanor or higher offenses you'd have to commit simultaneously while cranking out laps to meet that threshold these days....
  8. That was us, back in 2003. It was the most memorable climb of my life, by far, but I'm not sure that it's in the same league as the routes on the list above. Part of the reason for that is that - based on pictures I've seen - it goes from a mixed route that with a flow that rarely (I think) touches down in the late fall/early winter, to a pretty non-descript looking steepish snow slope by the time that spring rolls around.
  9. I also seem to remember a route that Necromonicon/Choada_Boy and two others (Dberdinka and genepires?) put up in the vicinity of Sloan back in the winter of 04/05? Very aesthetic, narrow mixed couloir. Anyone recall that one? Edit - looks like it's up there. Route on Whitechuck.
  10. When I scanned the list and tried to recall anything that might not have made the list, the Haley-Burdick route on Summit Chief came to mind. The first hit on Google was the NWMJ (link below) which would be a great place to skim through for other forgotten climbs. I haven't kept up with the AAJ for at least a decade, so I know my perception is heavily biased by losing track of what's been going on, but I'll always remember the aughts as a "Golden Age" of mountaineering in the PNW. This site provided an incredible venue where people could hook up with new partners and intel for new routes that seemed to drive a significant uptick in new route activity. Or maybe it just made what had always been going on more visible and accessible. Whatever the case - it was a glorious time and the new routes that were born in that era deserve to be remembered, and - at least some deserve - to be repeated. I was just looking up at Mt. Index the other day while kayaking down the Skykomish and was telling someone that I was only aware of one route up the face (EDM) and didn't think it had been repeated. I totally forgot about Ade's route, and there are probably others as well. Anyhow - great thread. Kudos to the OP for sifting through the archives. http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/04/041_Shorts.html
  11. Letter from PMR President about CCSO

    Makes me wonder if this is something that could be addressed with legislation at the State level. I can't imagine anyone believing that your average Sheriff's deputy has any business doing front-line wilderness rescue work. I also can't imagine that the response from the public will be favorable when and if there's a need for a rescue in the mountains and someone has to explain to the family and the public why the search and rescue resources that used to be available no longer are.
  12. Hey Ethan: Thanks for reaching out. I'd suggest posting at washingtonflyfishing.com as well.
  13. Wonder if the climber in question was Walt Shipley? Sadly prophetic if that was the case.
  14. IIRC there was a bit of a lull in usage not that long ago - maybe in the wake of the prolonged hangover from the tech bust? If that actually happened, I'd chalk it up to a minor halt in the in-migration of the young, single, childless types that make up a disproportionate share of the climbing demographic. On the flip side, I'd be willing to bet that the massive, sustained hiring binge at Amazon, etc over the past decade-plus has made an outsized contribution to the crowds I keep hearing about. Strangely, I haven't noticed much of an uptick in the numbers of people kayaking. Seems like numbers are holding steady at best.