pms

51, or 57 route? When I started thinking about the NE Butt. I knew a few friends who had climbed it, so didn’t consider the 51 route. Having been on the 57 route only, I can’t compare the two. I remember thinking the 57 route had a very serious section. A couple hundred feet without ledges, stances, or pro. Not rock climbing, but exposed with small foot holds kicked into the dirt by previous parties. Three of us tied together without pro is how I remember it. For the fall 2021publication of Classic Cascade Climbs and drawing on Tom Sjolseth’s experience, we decided to feature the 51 route. Pick your poison. Btw, the east ridge is somehow sounding better all the time. I was always more interested in the routes on the NE Face above the Sil Glacier, which I never attempted beyond the glacier. Half hearted attempts with Mark Twight, Bill Pilling, Dan Cauthorn, and Matt Kerns, 4 trips. Props to Sam Boyce, and Kyle for exploring tough new ground. Pretty cool. I like Dberdinka’s idea about working on it. Johannesburg is one heck of a mountain. The mountain was originally called Elsbeth by the Ptarmigan’s in memory of Ome Diaber’s first wife killed in a float plane accident.

How do you even remember this shit John? Was there a band?

I actually thought the C-J Couloir was a pretty good and faster descent route (short memory no doubt). Who knows with crampons and axes the Ptarmigans may have continued their descent down the C-J. Of course that would have put them at todays parking lot, rather than their camp at the pass. Certainly they would have used Doug's other Direct (rt to the pass), so no problem there. A pretty good effort by those Ptarmigan kids knocking off a couple more peaks towards the end of their trip.

From Calder Bressler as told to Harvey Manning. “Climbing over Cache Col we dropped down to Cascade Pass and leaving our packs at a good campsite south of the pass set out for the peak we called Elsbeth, now named Johannesburg. We traversed the talus beneath the Triplets gaining altitude gradually, traversed and climbed most of the north face of Cascade Peak, arriving at last on the col between Cascade and Johannesburg. By now it was late in the afternoon, but any qualms we might have had were dispelled by the mountain goat which appeared suddenly to guide us. Climbing the cliff west of the col we followed the goat, who kept at a uniform distance of 200 feet, leading us to the summit at 6 p.m. Though now we had a few second thoughts, and moved with all possible speed it was dark before we regained the col. Rather weary and desperate we attempted to descend the hanging glacier that drops away on the north side of the col, and none of us came away from that evening with any love for clawing around on steep ice by flashlight. We were finally stopped by a gaping crevasse that spanned the entire width of the narrow ice torrent, and gave it up as a bad job. Back over the col we groggily struggled, and bivouacked in a sparse meadow on the south slope, huddling all night over a small twig fire, scorching our hands and faces while other portions of the anatomy froze. At first light we carefully conducted our stiff bones the long way to Cascade Pass, circling on the south side of Triplets and descending a snow finger between Triplets and Mixup to our camp.”

Most likely Doug's route is the same route used by the Ptarmigan's on their Johannesburg climb in 38 for their return to Cascade Pass.

What she said, looks stellar!

Awesome looking corner. Maybe look for recent pics from TR's of ski descents of the Slot Couloir for potential conditions info.

Cooking in a tent takes care of the wind (most of the time). For cold temperatures a good hanging kit saves space, and hard to spill. Temperature inside the tent at hanging stove height takes care of the cold issue after a few minutes. Direct flame from lighter under the fuel can (or warm hands) gets it going quickly. Same "tricks" for altitude.

Dave says topo's are aid. Good times up there Mr. Evans. A real treat for me to hang with, and watch David (the tooth fairy) Whitelaw at work.

Wow! I was there years ago with Mr. Beckey. I'm tired of the WA Pass drive, and with all these good anchors think I'm past due for a return trip. Thanks for the gifts DavidW.

a somewhat unprotected traverse left it's the way I've been. This is south of the crest, and leads to the small notch accessible via the north side option. about 5.7 Anyone know if there has been a rockfall on the last pitch in the last several years? The pitch leading to the summit, from the ledge on the south side.

Yes, very nice. Congrats! Neat to see you move so quick over so much mtn., and way out there style or advanced.

not repeated because it's too hard

Yes, nicely done!

Agree with Matt P. and Offwhite. Would something like this make sense on snow cr. wall?