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Everything posted by rat

  1. review source for eva foam

    Here are some specs that I found after ordering: http://www.qualityfoam.com/docs/Minicel_Type_T_T200_T300_T380.pdf T300 may be worth the minimal extra price & weight depending on the thickness you want.
  2. Reasonably inexpensive source for eva foam: https://www.foambymail.com/minicel-type-t-foam.html I just received a sheet of T200. It appears identical to the yellow hardman pad of yore.
  3. found found stolen gear

    Found in the brush next to our house: 1 rope (appears to be gym-length). 1 Metolius PAS. 1 Butora rock shoe (size 8.5). We looked around for the other one but couldn't find it. Send me a pm describing the pertinent colors & I'll get it back to you.
  4. Trip: snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament Trip Date: 03/31/2018 Trip Report: marko and i went kickin', scratchin', 'n stabbin' yesterday and unearthed a previously unheralded book of the bible: the turf testament. start a few hundred feet up the slot couloir at the large right facing book. pitches 1-2: two 60m pitches up rock & turf in the corner and some thin ice on the right face. pitch 3: climb a short corner, move easily left to the next book, & climb it to tree belay (<50m). [pitch 3 alternatives: a. possibly rightward escape on a treed ramp (may dead end on the ridge bordering the slot), or b. finish directly up very difficult looking roofs above.] pitch 4: climb up shallow right facing book with overlaps to difficult exit moves overlooking the roofs directly above the second belay (30m). [pitch 4 alternative: straight up through a short squeeze chimney to a difficult looking roof in main corner.] hike up the ridge between the slot and crooked couloirs to the summit rock band. pitch 5: up central chimney/gully to exit immediately left of cornices (30m). a pretty good photo of this route appears in martin volken's "backcountry skiing: snoqualmie pass". the route is very obvious to anyone skiing the slot so i would not be surprised if it has been climbed: any info would be appreciated. the route cannot be seen from the start of pineapple express. however, a party could climb the first 4(?) of p.e., then scope the route from there. if interested, they could cross the slot to the turf testament. if not, continue up p.e. are you ready to testify? Gear Notes: rock gear to 4"; screws to 13cm (for us); your choice of turf gear; a few pins (not used) Approach Notes: best via standard approach to nw face. dropping down the slot may work but has drawbacks (can't scope the route, pissed off skiers).
  5. Thanks for the history & your efforts. Perhaps thankfully, we didn't see any of your bail pins. I suppose it's rated about the same as other routes on the NW face, however one wants to rate those, but is of a slightly different character & pretty run out on the first pitch. Since then I have seen photos where that pitch looks like hero WI3. I'm surprised that it wasn't done before & I haven't heard of an ascent since. It's a good route with plenty of opportunities for new variations with a summit at the end.
  6. Thanks for the info. Yes, that west facing wall has 3 multi-pitch sport climbs (5.9, 5.8, & 5.10 from right to left) put up by Leland Windham & Co.
  7. Nice find. I have wondered about that area over the years. How did the large gully immediately west of the TH look (probably lower angle than it looks head-on)? There is also a rumored ice climb up the west facing water streak not far south of the TH but catching that in condition might be tough.
  8. That is an outstanding trip up an amazing valley. For future reference, there is a direct line to Phantom camp via a brush-free Picket Cr. trib with only a couple short cliff sections to negotiate.
  9. Bolts on Little Sister

    Cuz they're lazy sods that don't want to take the risk of killing a "guest" or have a "guest" kill them. This guide-produced climb had many of its pins, next to perfectly protectable cracks, disappear some years back https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/53230-fa-of-n-arete-of-varden-creek-spire-6222007/
  10. Sorry, found a home for 'em already.
  11. Man, you get after it. Your winter ascents of the Bulgers, while just bumps on the map compared to your summer achievements, seem to have stood you in good stead. Congrats. How many country high points to go?
  12. Only placed a couple times since buying it in the late '90's. Photos on request. Will not ship but will deliver in Seattle area or along the I-5 corridor up to Burlington. $100 cash.
  13. Kind words but hopefully made tongue- in-cheek. We are for the most part just the cleaners for many previous greats and, in our case, often for Mike and Wayne (cue the Winston Wolfe clip). Mannijo, I can't honestly say it was worth the approach and certainly not a classic in any ordinary sense. Onward....
  14. WHAP....well at least he didn't inadvertently use an acronym that the snowflakes would redact. I mean who's against whaps? Yeah, he probably shouldn't list it on his CV. As one who works in the woods, I have a lot of respect for how fast a fire can move. Luckily, the start zone, wind, & overnight showers were in our favor. The Baker River deproach would have been an adventurous cake walk if necessary but someone, not gonna say who, thought it was nuts. Thanks for the info, Mark. If one wanted to roll the dice with falling snags, the fire might improve the approach to Bear Mt. until the brush returns. However, I bet the NPS closes it next summer due to safety concerns.
  15. "Classic of the range" that just needs a little traffic to clean it up..... IV?! Only because someone is pretty damn slow, not gonna say who. Gotta say that Mike's & Wayne's ascent of Spectre, while not directly up the SW buttress, was a very impressive feat.
  16. way to put it together....that's a lot o' walking. has your son caught the bulger bug?
  17. Access to Twin Sisters Range

    as darin alluded to: June 24 at 10:13 AM HAMPTON FOREST CLOSURES: We are sorry to announce that due to increased risk of wildfire in Oregon and Washington, all Hampton forestland will be closed to the general public until further notice. With state resources for wildfire response already stretched thin, we feel this temporary closure is needed to protect forest health and public safety. We understand the inconvenience this can create for those who use our forestlands in the summer. We intend to resume public access at the end of fire season. For more information on other private land closures in Oregon visit: https://ofic.com/private-forestland-closures/
  18. i climbed it in the early 2000's. two points supporting removal of the added protection bolt are: 1. the bolt does change "the character of the route"; and 2. previous retro efforts did not feel the need for an added bolt. at this point i don't really care whether you remove the added bolt but bear in mind that just because you think you're doing a public service doesn't always mean it's so. rock on...
  19. i'm not surprised you couldn't reach steve risse as he is dead. not sure about his wife. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199432900/Steven-Craig-Risse-1952-1993 it was clearly not so much of a "death route" that you couldn't rope solo it & the route has been retro'd 2x already. http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Washington-Pass-North-Early-Winters-Spire-Labor-Pains the internet is such a hard place to find info.....
  20. Spring Mtn

    not sure if dustin is referring to oregon's spring mt. or washington's but as of yesterday, the other side of the tracks was not "free of moss and debris". that said, it climbed better than it looked. someone has re-grubbed a good portion of the approach trail, perhaps as a covid clampdown project, so maybe a renaissance is in the works.
  21. "They will be logging around the Heliotrope trailhead right up to the Wilderness boundary" is somewhat inaccurate. If you drill down on the map on Pg.5 of Appendix D, you will see that the project area does not extend south of the Grouse Creek tributary bisecting the road turn where the trailhead is located. Grouse Creek, the wilderness boundary, is almost certainly a fish bearing stream downstream of this trib's junction and will get a no-cut 100' buffer. The language on the NCCC's webpage is so over-the-top emotional that I strongly urge diving into the USFS documents before commenting. Makes a person long for the smell of the GP tissue mill to give the crack "pulp farm for Trump's business cronies" a veneer of respectability. Just a sample after a quick perusal of the documents: NCCC's cited acreages bear no resemblance to either Alt.1 or Alt.2 acreages shown on Fig.14 of the DEA. Road runoff & fill/cut slope failures are a legit concern among others. However, if you look at Pg.26 of the Draft EA this proposal will ultimately reduce road mileage & density of roads. This project is expected to take 10-15 years. Recreationalists of all stripes are bound to be inconvenienced for some period of time near these units. I believe most don't lack imagination. Have at it.
  22. overly kind words for the likes of us..... been trying to be responsible during these plague times but hoping for a better summer for all. there is no shortage of choss in the cascades though i agree with eric that lemolo needs a repeat (or another line). it's on par with bear mtn.'s dnb but more committing.
  23. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    the closest comparable wx site (~6000' elev.) is the green lake snotel on this site: https://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mso/fwxmaps/ksew.php