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tanstaafl

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Everything posted by tanstaafl

  1. Trip: Static Point - Lost Charms, 5.9, 5 p Trip Date: 08/30/2020 Trip Report: Did a search and the last TR for Static Point was from ten years ago! Rat and I climbed Lost Charms yesterday; beautiful day and we had the place all to ourselves. If you're looking to avoid the Vantage/Leavenworth crowds, this would be a good place to do it. Beta for Lost Charms can be found on Mtn Project or in Sky Valley Rock if you are or know an old coot who has the book. Fun route; more route-finding necessary than most slab routes as you're not just following a line of bolts. We agreed the 5.6 finger crack was a particularly fun pitch. Trail is in stellar shape and Online is sporting shiny brand new bolts and rap stations. Go get it. Gear Notes: Rack to #3 Camalot, slings, double 60m ropes Approach Notes: US 2, north on Sultan Basin Road to Spada Reservoir, take the right fork after reservoir, park in first pullout on left after you cross the bridge, hike up blocked-off logging road directly across from the pullout ~1 hour, then turn left at massive cairn and go uphill ~0.5 hour.
  2. [TR] Chimney Rock - East Face (U-Gap) 08/24/2020

    Absolutely. I blame Jason G.
  3. Trip: Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ Trip Date: 08/15/2019 Trip Report: Got out Friday on this new(ish) Nelson/Whitelaw route; if you're looking for a quick alpine hit you should give it a try. To find the start, go past the SW Face trad route and continue a short distance to a low angle corner with bolts. Easy to find. The route is generously bolted, no need for gear. It's seven 30m pitches -- we combined 6&7 and you could easily combine 3&4 as well, but I think running 1&2 together would give you some unpleasant rope drag. I skipped or unclipped a couple of bolts on P2 and still had a little drag at the end of the pitch. P5 is the crux. Rap the route with a 60 or downclimb the South Face and circle back around for your gear. Fun day out and as I'm told "it's a good training route for anything on Hozomeen." We ran into Jake the Brit as we were downclimbing the South Face, he said I should post a TR and he'd nag Whitelaw for a topo. You really don't need one though, just follow the bolts. Action shot looking down P2: Gear Notes: 13 draws, rope Approach Notes: the usual
  4. Upper N Ridge solo is still impressive! And just covering that much ground in a day is impressive -- to me anyway. Sad to say, but having climbed in the Cascades for 20 years, the number of things that I am capable of climbing that are close enough to a road to not qualify as a slog are getting to be fewer and fewer, and the number of those that my primary partner, who's climbed in the Cascades for 40 years, hasn't done are infinitesimal.
  5. Noice! Thanks for the stoke. And for reminding me that I have yet to climb Argonaut. That does make the south side look appealing. If it's any consolation, I just returned from a nine-day climbing trip on which I took not a single photo. I will just have to remember that very large marmot with not a whit of timidity about approaching closer, and closer, and closer, until we started asking ourselves, "Is it rabid?"
  6. That second to last photo is fabulous. Looks like a fun day out.
  7. [TR] The Molar Tooth - Issue 119? 8/18/2007

    Rolf and I climbed the NR yesterday as the culmination (or maybe "last climb" would be a better term) of a week in the WA Pass/Methow area, and yeah, it is definitely a long-ass walk for two pitches of roped climbing, but gotta say the views are spectacular and the climbing itself was nice enough. Plus I was too wasted in mind and body to do anything more challenging by then anyway. As usual, the walk out felt way longer than the walk in.
  8. Trip: Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running Trip Date: 07/25/2020 Trip Report: I've been working 60 hours a week lately and really really needed a day out to just maintain sanity; so der Rat and I scampered up Silent Running this weekend. I was cheered to see that people apparently still get out to Darrington, though I never seem to hear anyone but Otto talk about it anymore. There were a *dozen* cars at the trailhead and we got scooped on Total Soul, our intended route, as two parties were just starting up it when we arrived. There wasn't anyone else on the North Buttress though so we went ahead and did the route in front of us instead. NIce and clean so obviously it's still getting climbed, unlike some of the obscurities to the right and left. It was an Alzheimer's first ascent -- we did it together seven years ago but neither of us could even remember which pitches we led. Still seven pitches of good fun and it was such a beautiful day that I, the woman who is always cold, was comfortable in a t shirt and cotton pants rolled up. In contrast, all four climbers on Total Soul were wearing matching long sleeve hoodies with the hoods *on* all day long. Maybe they were all from Arizona or something and found 70 degrees to be cold? Here's to more and better climbing and much, much less work for the rest of the summer. Gear Notes: two ropes, one small rack, ten draws Approach Notes: hike up the trail
  9. If you haven't already seen it, you might be interested in a documentary entitled The Mountain Runners (available from Seattle Public Library) about the historic Mt. Baker Marathon, from Bellingham to the top of Baker and back. The first marathon (in 1911) featured one group of competitors going by train via Glacier and others by car via Deming. A guy from the Glacier side was in the lead until the returning train hit a bull and derailed, leaving him to return via buggy, horseback, and auto while wearing a bathrobe. He came in second, and the bull was grilled for the afterparty. During the third and final marathon in 1913, one competitor spent six hours in a crevasse -- after that the Mt Baker Club decided it was too dangerous. At any rate if you can get your hands on the DVD it's worth watching.
  10. I second this! A few (well, less than 10 anyway? god I'm a geezer) years back we spent a leisurely four days going from Eldorado TH to CCCG via Eldo, Klawatti, Austera, Primus, and Tricouni. It was one of the highlights of the summer. Soooo pretty up there. Recommended for sure.
  11. [TR] Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running 07/25/2020

    ha! I'll have to start looking at the photos in your TRs even more closely...
  12. [TR] Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running 07/25/2020

    huh. Missed the fashion memo as usual. I'm still using $3 men's 100% cotton dress shirts from Goodwill for keeping cool and as a replacement for sunscreen. Maybe that's why I have trouble finding partners?
  13. [TR] Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running 07/25/2020

    Cy -- my partner actively hates photos and I normally just can't be bothered to take them, but just for you here is a typical granite-slabs-at-Darrington photo. OK, this one is from SCW instead of Three O'Clock Rock and it's Ken Ford's ass, rather than Rolf's ass, but the principle holds: this is what slab climbing photos look like. Enjoy! Jason, yeah, same here -- both on the # of cars and the timing for climbing there; but the forecast said 68, and the North Buttress mercifully isn't south-facing, so we decided to chance it. After making it a mere five pitches up Excalibur on a baking hot day before bailing, dehydrated, I like to think I learned my lesson. Probably not though. We definitely heard people (and a dog) around the corner on the South Buttress. How busy was it over there?
  14. [TR] Mt Baker - North Ridge 07/18/2020

    Welcome Natalie! Nice to see a new face around here. Amazing photos; looks like a stellar trip.
  15. [TR] Corax Peak - North Face 07/05/2020

    Rick La Belle did another route on the NE Rib for sure; he appears to have climbed all over that area; he also has a 5.7 route up the north side of Hoodoo. I also only have the second edition of Beckey, so there might be even more in the third edition plus whatever nobody bothered to report.
  16. Trip: Corax Peak - North Face Trip Date: 07/05/2020 Trip Report: Not a single TR for this route to be found anywhere; does everyone just do the scramble to tick off their Bulger lists? Rolf and I climbed the NF of Corax Peak this weekend, 6 pitches of 5.7 starting from the left side of the chimney above the crescent shaped snowfield in the photo, going up to the ridge and thence to the summit. Mostly fun blocky ridge climbing, though the first pitch was more "interesting" as Rolf would say, featuring lichen and some loose/suspect rock and excavation of placements and some thoughtful moves. It doesn't appear that it's gotten much traffic since Rick La Belle did the FA in 1991; though of course we could have been off route. Stellar day out though and only saw three people at camp and maybe five on the trail. Gear Notes: 60 m rope, single rack to #3 Camalot Approach Notes: Libby Lake trail
  17. Trip: Banks Lake - various Trip Date: 06/20/2020 Trip Report: There is still solitude to be had if you stay away from the Icicle Creek/Frenchman's shitshow(s) -- this weekend at Banks, we literally had the entire crag to ourselves on Saturday (well, except for the two guys who drove up the coulee in an ORV, saw us climbing, said, “We can’t shoot here,” and drove away, bless them) and saw only two other parties on Sunday. Should have taken both pairs of rock shoes; it was my first time rock climbing since early February and by 5 pm yesterday I could barely stand on my feet anymore and we had to quit. Didn’t climb anything noteworthy but sooo nice to get out and breathe the desert air. Drive home was even fine except for the usual 5 – 20 mph disaster between Roslyn and Easton. I don’t understand why that particular stretch always sucks so much, but it does. Gear Notes: rope, rack, slings/draws Approach Notes: I-90 to SR 283 to SR 17
  18. [TR] Corax Peak - North Face 07/05/2020

    Well, he did say the route reminded him of the route you two did on Cleator — was that Tubby Needs Cheese? — so there's that! And no arm twisting required; it was his idea in fact. I can think of few activities I would find less rewarding than trying to convince R to do something he didn't want to do. True we saw hardly any people back there; which was awesome. Seemed like granite to me, but I'm no geologist.
  19. Nice! Daniel is a tricky one to get without a snowmobile early in the season or carrying your skis a looong way later in the season. Looks like a stellar trip!
  20. Hood South Side TRs

    Ah, the ever popular complaining about other people's TRs. Same as it ever was. Please refer to this classic trip report responding to a classic complaint about trip reports. Then just go read everything else Uncle_Tricky ever wrote, it will keep you out of trouble and be a way more entertaining way to spend yer day than working.
  21. [TR] Banks Lake - various 06/20/2020

    Don't know about you, but I'm heading into geezer territory.
  22. [TR] Banks Lake - various 06/20/2020

    In fact, the entire state of Washington sucks. Everyone should just go back to wherever they were 20 to 30 years ago. Right? Grumpy old curmudgeons unite!
  23. High Ice movie

    I saw excerpts from that at a party once; the wife of the guest of honor introduced the film by saying, "You don't need to be a climber to appreciate how ridiculous this is, you just need a basic understanding of the laws of physics." Imagine someone flinging themselves down on a completely flat snowfield and then making progress across the snow by plunging the head of their ice ax into the snow and dragging themselves six inches at a time. It was spectacular.
  24. A friend sent me the link to this climbing and skiing video; for your enjoyment while we're all waiting to get back out there: https://www.facebook.com/100002422883876/posts/2825174387573296/?d=n
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