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Trip: snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament Trip Date: 03/31/2018 Trip Report: marko and i went kickin', scratchin', 'n stabbin' yesterday and unearthed a previously unheralded book of the bible: the turf testament. start a few hundred feet up the slot couloir at the large right facing book. pitches 1-2: two 60m pitches up rock & turf in the corner and some thin ice on the right face. pitch 3: climb a short corner, move easily left to the next book, & climb it to tree belay (<50m). [pitch 3 alternatives: a. possibly rightward escape on a treed ramp (may dead end on the ridge bordering the slot), or b. finish directly up very difficult looking roofs above.] pitch 4: climb up shallow right facing book with overlaps to difficult exit moves overlooking the roofs directly above the second belay (30m). [pitch 4 alternative: straight up through a short squeeze chimney to a difficult looking roof in main corner.] hike up the ridge between the slot and crooked couloirs to the summit rock band. pitch 5: up central chimney/gully to exit immediately left of cornices (30m). a pretty good photo of this route appears in martin volken's "backcountry skiing: snoqualmie pass". the route is very obvious to anyone skiing the slot so i would not be surprised if it has been climbed: any info would be appreciated. the route cannot be seen from the start of pineapple express. however, a party could climb the first 4(?) of p.e., then scope the route from there. if interested, they could cross the slot to the turf testament. if not, continue up p.e. are you ready to testify? Gear Notes: rock gear to 4"; screws to 13cm (for us); your choice of turf gear; a few pins (not used) Approach Notes: best via standard approach to nw face. dropping down the slot may work but has drawbacks (can't scope the route, pissed off skiers).

https://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/mbs/recreation/camping-cabins https://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/okawen/recreation/camping-cabins if you can find a place in the baker lake-darrington-marblemount area & the weather cooperates, there are opportunities for multi-pitch rock (darrington/squire/spring mt., maybe mt. erie & coal mt.), single pitch sport (mt. erie, newhalem), as well as lots of alpine rock & glacial travel within easy striking distance. if the weather craps out, you could move east of washington pass (goat wall & environs, alpine rock at wapass) or to leavenworth.

rad, mountain goats are in the antelope family. but we all know that they are crisis actors. bronco, time and money to spend recreating in the mountains but not a free evening to interact with the locals? some of the effected tribes (e.g. the sauk-suiattle) may argue that they have larger stakes than well-heeled urbanites. and some of the locals may argue that it's just another excuse to launch the black helicopters. could be entertaining. some reasonably interesting info, if you believe what you read on the interweb: https://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/nature/mountain-goats.htm https://wdfw.wa.gov/conservation/research/projects/mtn_goat/population_models/ (to approx. 2005) http://www.chronline.com/news/native-mountain-goats-thriving-in-south-cascades/article_8b572f6e-b09f-11e7-97fd-638365563c13.html

WDFW NEWS RELEASE Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife 600 Capitol Way North, Olympia, WA 98501-1091 http://wdfw.wa.gov/ March 6, 2018 Contact: Rich Harris, (360) 902-8134 Meetings planned on mountain goat relocation to native habitat in North Cascades OLYMPIA – Four meetings are scheduled in late March to enable northwest Washington residents to learn more about a proposal to move mountain goats from Olympic National Park to the North Cascades during the summers of 2018 and 2019. The public is invited to hear a presentation and speak with representatives of the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) and Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) during meetings in Sedro Woolley, Darrington, North Bend, and Sultan. The National Park Service, in collaboration with the two agencies, has prepared a draft environmental impact statement (EIS) for a mountain goat management plan to remove them from Olympic National Park to reduce damage to the park's natural resources – especially native vegetation – and to protect public safety. The preferred alternative in the draft EIS calls for relocating some of the mountain goats from the park and nearby Forest Service lands to their native habitat in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests. The Park Service is expected to issue a final EIS this spring. Meetings are scheduled for: Tuesday, March 20, 7 to 9 p.m. Mt. Baker Ranger District Office, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest 810 State Route 20 Sedro Woolley Wednesday, March 21, 7:30 to 8:30 p.m. Darrington Library Meeting Room 1005 Cascade St. Darrington (Note: The presentation will be made during the last segment of the meeting of Darrington Strong) Thursday, March 22, 7 to 9 p.m. Snoqualmie Ranger District Office, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest 902 SE North Bend Way North Bend Monday, March 26, 7 to 9 p.m. Sultan City Hall Meeting Room 319 Main St., #200 Sultan

excellent.

a long shot.... i am looking for one or two wire heel lifts for a pair of silvretta 400 bindings. lifts from 300's or 404's will also work. thanks.

i know you said alpine rock hammer but the compact third tool listed below is hard to beat for alpine rock routes in the cascades and other areas where summer glacier travel is relatively easy. charlet moser used to make a similar but lighter item. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grivel-Ice-Axe-/272435621311?hash=item3f6e6dadbf:g:WiQAAOSwUEVYENvr (length isn't listed but the shorter the better -- i think the shortest is 43cm)

waited with the hoi polloi for this. very gneiss. you make the bushwacking sound like work, almost. luckily, most of the cascades look like munge from a distance. it keeps the riff raff away.

it may be one of the steepest faces but jackasses know how to avoid the steeps when heading for the barn. had i been climbing a bit more this summer, eric wouldn't have had to bivy on the face. it's probably just a grade IV if both partners are climbing decently. but getting back to the base took about another 6 hours (very impressive first ascent by beckey et. al.) a direct route up the face would be likely require a bolt kit and/or some aid. the corner systems there looked pretty welded.

aluminum poles (slightly bent) originally from a bibler i-tent. turn into an aid cheater stick or makeshift stick clip? old ropes only suitable for boats, rugs, dogs, etc. approx. dimensions: one 10mm x 60m one 10mm x 100' two 10mm x 40-50' can meet/drop off in the seattle area. send a pm.

shooting blanks.

we were there last summer and there were no access restrictions. see the info in johnsonjj22's 7/22/11 and 1/12/12 posts. it is valid. park on the highwayat the olympic discovery trail head, walk that trail to the powerline, turn left down the powerline road, turn right on a distinct trail and follow that past the bearing trees. turn left at the next side trail and follow it to the gully above the cliff. take care. at that time, there were lots of corroded bolts/hangers but the more traveled routes were retro-fitted.

sol's "even easier" method, a one 'biner backup through one bolt hanger, would twist the rope in the system and put all the load on one bolt. i agree with montypiton. with that method, one can also oppose carabiners or add a locker for redundancy. also, those are quick links not cold shuts. their working load limit, depending on diameter, can be be less than the carabiner attached to them.

at this time of year, looking at heliotrope ridge reports on turns all year can be fruitful. this is from 10/17/15 but gets my point across: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=34646.0

superior execution of "plan hype".