rat

Trip: mt. kent - north face Trip Date: 03/05/2019 Trip Report: sub-alpinism seems to have understandably fallen out of favor given conditions in the coulees, sw b.c. and patagonia. couple of overview photos from yesterday: yesterday's route provided a half dozen entertaining ice/turf/rock steps. once above the last step, ~300 v.f. of forest take you directly to the summit. the quickest descent is down the east ridge then down the large avalanche gully on the left side of the face: there is old red webbing around a tree on skier's right but it is now easily down climbed. if you mistakenly drop down the burdick/fortier gully as i initially did, you could probably do a couple raps down the final two steps w/ one rope. the last couple of steps before the forest: annotated photo from ~2007: the photo above was copied from this thread: Gear Notes: the usual sharp stuff. Approach Notes: xc up east side of alice creek.

comparing your overview photo with peter's: peter's "main flow" is on the far left and looks like "the steps". this is also shown in mickebob's photo. much less snow when we were there so we climbed a couple long, easy pitches to the top and walked off to skier's right. peter's "upper right wall" looks like your "for your hidden pleasures area". we climbed a smear and continued up a shorter, thicker pitch to the brush. looks like the vicinity of "martinelli" but in thinner conditions. as i recall, mickebob and crew were climbing on "the sheet" & "champagne". no names. we figured the area had been explored in the past. am certain it will continue to lure.

2009 with a bit less snow cover. there were a couple other parties there that day as well.

thanks, "dr" drew, ph.d., principal.

if only 10" or so tall, it is likely pinemat manzanita. smoke it if you got it.

stellar. thanks. a little 'freesole' will set those boots up for another season.

wild country #6 technical friend (used a handful of times) - $80. medium leeper z - $5. 1/2" baby angle - $5. rurp (slung, not wired) - free with pins. picture uploads keep failing. if you want any of this, you know what it is. cash only. can meet along i5 seattle to mt. vernon. will not ship.

Trip: snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament Trip Date: 03/31/2018 Trip Report: marko and i went kickin', scratchin', 'n stabbin' yesterday and unearthed a previously unheralded book of the bible: the turf testament. start a few hundred feet up the slot couloir at the large right facing book. pitches 1-2: two 60m pitches up rock & turf in the corner and some thin ice on the right face. pitch 3: climb a short corner, move easily left to the next book, & climb it to tree belay (<50m). [pitch 3 alternatives: a. possibly rightward escape on a treed ramp (may dead end on the ridge bordering the slot), or b. finish directly up very difficult looking roofs above.] pitch 4: climb up shallow right facing book with overlaps to difficult exit moves overlooking the roofs directly above the second belay (30m). [pitch 4 alternative: straight up through a short squeeze chimney to a difficult looking roof in main corner.] hike up the ridge between the slot and crooked couloirs to the summit rock band. pitch 5: up central chimney/gully to exit immediately left of cornices (30m). a pretty good photo of this route appears in martin volken's "backcountry skiing: snoqualmie pass". the route is very obvious to anyone skiing the slot so i would not be surprised if it has been climbed: any info would be appreciated. the route cannot be seen from the start of pineapple express. however, a party could climb the first 4(?) of p.e., then scope the route from there. if interested, they could cross the slot to the turf testament. if not, continue up p.e. are you ready to testify? Gear Notes: rock gear to 4"; screws to 13cm (for us); your choice of turf gear; a few pins (not used) Approach Notes: best via standard approach to nw face. dropping down the slot may work but has drawbacks (can't scope the route, pissed off skiers).

https://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/mbs/recreation/camping-cabins https://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/okawen/recreation/camping-cabins if you can find a place in the baker lake-darrington-marblemount area & the weather cooperates, there are opportunities for multi-pitch rock (darrington/squire/spring mt., maybe mt. erie & coal mt.), single pitch sport (mt. erie, newhalem), as well as lots of alpine rock & glacial travel within easy striking distance. if the weather craps out, you could move east of washington pass (goat wall & environs, alpine rock at wapass) or to leavenworth.

rad, mountain goats are in the antelope family. but we all know that they are crisis actors. bronco, time and money to spend recreating in the mountains but not a free evening to interact with the locals? some of the effected tribes (e.g. the sauk-suiattle) may argue that they have larger stakes than well-heeled urbanites. and some of the locals may argue that it's just another excuse to launch the black helicopters. could be entertaining. some reasonably interesting info, if you believe what you read on the interweb: https://www.nps.gov/noca/learn/nature/mountain-goats.htm https://wdfw.wa.gov/conservation/research/projects/mtn_goat/population_models/ (to approx. 2005) http://www.chronline.com/news/native-mountain-goats-thriving-in-south-cascades/article_8b572f6e-b09f-11e7-97fd-638365563c13.html

WDFW NEWS RELEASE Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife 600 Capitol Way North, Olympia, WA 98501-1091 http://wdfw.wa.gov/ March 6, 2018 Contact: Rich Harris, (360) 902-8134 Meetings planned on mountain goat relocation to native habitat in North Cascades OLYMPIA – Four meetings are scheduled in late March to enable northwest Washington residents to learn more about a proposal to move mountain goats from Olympic National Park to the North Cascades during the summers of 2018 and 2019. The public is invited to hear a presentation and speak with representatives of the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) and Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) during meetings in Sedro Woolley, Darrington, North Bend, and Sultan. The National Park Service, in collaboration with the two agencies, has prepared a draft environmental impact statement (EIS) for a mountain goat management plan to remove them from Olympic National Park to reduce damage to the park's natural resources – especially native vegetation – and to protect public safety. The preferred alternative in the draft EIS calls for relocating some of the mountain goats from the park and nearby Forest Service lands to their native habitat in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie and Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests. The Park Service is expected to issue a final EIS this spring. Meetings are scheduled for: Tuesday, March 20, 7 to 9 p.m. Mt. Baker Ranger District Office, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest 810 State Route 20 Sedro Woolley Wednesday, March 21, 7:30 to 8:30 p.m. Darrington Library Meeting Room 1005 Cascade St. Darrington (Note: The presentation will be made during the last segment of the meeting of Darrington Strong) Thursday, March 22, 7 to 9 p.m. Snoqualmie Ranger District Office, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest 902 SE North Bend Way North Bend Monday, March 26, 7 to 9 p.m. Sultan City Hall Meeting Room 319 Main St., #200 Sultan

excellent.

a long shot.... i am looking for one or two wire heel lifts for a pair of silvretta 400 bindings. lifts from 300's or 404's will also work. thanks.

i know you said alpine rock hammer but the compact third tool listed below is hard to beat for alpine rock routes in the cascades and other areas where summer glacier travel is relatively easy. charlet moser used to make a similar but lighter item. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grivel-Ice-Axe-/272435621311?hash=item3f6e6dadbf:g:WiQAAOSwUEVYENvr (length isn't listed but the shorter the better -- i think the shortest is 43cm)

waited with the hoi polloi for this. very gneiss. you make the bushwacking sound like work, almost. luckily, most of the cascades look like munge from a distance. it keeps the riff raff away.