lunger

Nice report and pics! Your annotative efforts should ease some pilgrimages, but only so much ... that zone around Despair is quasi-Pickets. An interesting fact, as you likely know: the line you climbed (and peak) was Beckey's first, first ascent. Climbed that same route (or something like it) with snow on it earlier this year, also recommended. Whatever the season, it's a substantial journey with a payoff--such a beautiful area. @JonParker: After rat and I climbed N Despair via its eastern buttresses ("bipolar buttress", TR on this site), we descended to the notch between the two summits before dropping to the west and exiting via Triumph Pass etc. A continuation of the climb up the N ridge of the S summit looked feasible; it might require some roped climbing. Lacking time, we left that on our to-do list--would love to hear about someone sending it. Here's a pic of the N side of the south summit from near the notch: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cuomjfrLnMmgUCpY7

Well executed adventure, gents! Kudos for marching into the unknown. And the rock on your FA does look downright fun. Appreciate the write-up, keep 'em coming.

Very entertaining and informative TR, thx. The bit about Cletus and Berge is hilarious--the beginning of an anthology of fictitious mountain name origins? Was up on Cleator a couple years ago, and agree re: the area's diverse beauty, and that incredible trail in a relatively remote place.

Nice send fellas. Wondered about this one. Looks like a grand trip.

Thanks Mark for the news of, and for working on, the fire. I fought forest fires for a couple seasons way back when, and was relieved when we determined we could hike out, but we definitely had our eyes open. Yeah Seth I read your report in prepping for this trip. Seems you guys got plenty of consolation--pretty inspiring place to climb rock. And Rad re: Perfect Pass: for sure, I think that any forecast showing a nonzero chance of precip (say, 10-20%) for that area should be read "periods of certain drizzle or rain". For the record, the only intended double entendre of the acronym was the meaning of the actual word, "whap", which means to be hit hard, or the resultant sound of same. A Northern Pickets trip will often smack you down, or at least leave a mark -- and/or an impression. There's so much still to do there. I encourage repeats of this route. My hasty pictures did not do it justice. Wish I'd taken photos of the void step-across, and more of the good stretches of climbing, but we were pretty intent on making time.

Trip: Phantom Peak, Northern Picket Range - West Ridge IV 5.7+ aka "WHAP" Trip Date: 07/30/2021 Trip Report: "We have a problem" stated the leader of pitch 6. He had encountered an airy and cruxy 4’+ gap in the ridge and simultaneously observed a fresh plume of wildfire smoke erupting in the distant valley that marked the return home. His partner – who could not see him or his immediate problem, but could see the smoke – shouted “What?”, seeking clarification regarding which of many possible problems they had. The leader re-shouted “WE HAVE A PROBLEM”, apparently as if over intervening seconds, a realization intensified that perhaps this was a more general statement, one readily applied to anybody that comes to this place. The first step is acceptance... They quickly concluded that bailing halfway up the ridge would not really impart any advantage to dealing with the new (to be named) Bear Creek Fire, so continued tackling the climb. The pitch 6 problem, a long span across a hundred-plus-foot gap in the ridge, was easily the hardest technical move on themostly 5.7+ route—bound to be a “classic of the range”, as oft proclaimed at each belay. The route takes the right hand skyline to the summit spike well left of center (link to an album w/ annotated pic): The leader used a nut and a sling to create a handhold for tension and a more certain move across the gap. The second on this pitch cleaned the gear, and with the benefit of long legs and a top-rope, made the balance-y stem across the gap and the next move across – probably a V0 or V1 boulder move (5.10ish), depending on leg length. Two pitches later the duo topped out on a tower and rappelled approx. 100' into a notch. Pitches 8 through 10 were on generally solid rock with a pleasurable position. A total of 10 pitches of roped climbing gave way to ~400' of soloing to the summit ridge and traversing a sharp ridge to the summit -- exhilarating. The untimely arrival of the Bear Creek fire compelled us to forego other plans for the area and head homeward. As it turns out, a rainy afternoon through the next morning would have largely scuttled those plans anyway. That same weather pattern allowed us to exit via our entry route, as the fire was a bit north of our return route--thankfully, as the other exits would have involved an even more unsavory amount of distance and logistics. Folks with a certain taste might opine that we picked a plum with this route, as it offers mostly solid rock, modest vegetation, and enjoyable movement. Some high-hanging fruit is rotting on the vine, but this one was perhaps only a little overripe. More pics below. Looking up at part of pitch 1 and a fair bit of the rest: Rolf on pitch 4: Looking down pitch 6 at a chimeric rat-beaver, a fin on the ridge, and Mt Despair in background left: From the summit ridge, a nice view of Crooked Thumb and its subpeak Ghost, w/ the many peaks of Challenger in near background: Invigorating soloing on the summit ridge: From Perfect Pass, the fabulous Baker River drainage, filled with smoke: One in the party -- not gonna say who -- repeatedly urged a fire exit of the northern pickets via the brushy Baker River, convinced that his charm and/or good looks (yeah, after two days of bushwhacking) would score us a ride back to our car. The other was deeply skeptical of this strategy. The return along Easy Ridge under an increasingly smoke-veiled sun; don't worry, if you tire of loose talus and scree, many more paranormal modes of travel await: Here's a link to an album with more pics. Summary: Rolf Larson and Eric Wehrly establish a new route on Phantom via its West Ridge, aka We have a problem IV 5.7+. 10 pitches plus soloing. An obligatory John Scurlock photo of the ridge, extending toward the viewer: Gear Notes: Standard alpine rack. Also made use of tri-cams from fingers (black, pink) to thin hands. Approach Notes: Find the larger truth of the Easy Ridge approach – easy only in the middle – or take other long options. Making liberal use of granny gear with heavy-ish packs, over Wed/Thurs we took roughly 20 hours from Hannegan Pass TH to a moraine camp under Crooked Thumb/Ghost Peak. Generally budget 2 days, +/- a half day.

Echo the above, fantastic trip! Great write-up too. I'm (eric here) glad my foggy beta might have helped in some small way. I've only seen one wolverine in the Cascades, must have been a powerful moment. I've also gaped at that wall on the W aspect of NW Mox and wondered -- good on you all for giving it a go. John, by my read anyway, I'm pretty sure Jake and crew climbed the southern lobe, not the northern one--at least it looks like it in their pics. This was the way that Rolf and I descended. I agree that their approach is a novel one, and a nice way to go when approaching from the US. Perhaps Jake can clarify. Solid work gents.

Respect! Impressive sends by both the FA and second ascent parties, each in their own inimitable style. Thanks for posting up.

Sweet photos, as always Jason. Love that ski, recall doing it on Halloween one year -- I think your timing was better. How did the Park Headwall look? Any shots that direction?

first glance made me think of video peak at rogers pass, but likely not correct

Cool seeing activity on Mt Index walls! re: other big-ish walls: Diamond on Bear would be a worthy project, but don't envy you schlepping aid/wall gear back there for an attempt. East face of Tower has some potential, as does the east face of nearby Golden Horn. Buck Mtn Both Hozomeen peaks (the west face of N and north face of S) offer many lines (~2000') that the chicken-donkeys avoided on the only existing (reported) ascents. The more direct line to the summit on the north face of south Hozo would be particularly aesthetic--there's an accordion of steep, corrugated clean-looking corners leading up the upper half. For better rock, siege the direct east face of Mox/Lemolo (>2500'). Some approach pitches required to get to the sheer face. Consider being generous and leave pitons and bolts so the free-climbin' sport-monkeys can go back for the FFAs

that's a big push. appreciate the pics, looks like engaging climbing conditions. and the entertaining boneless chicken farm pics on the summit slog ring true--single pushes sure get painful up top.

Well that looks like fun in an out-of-the-way place. Surprised that Rolf would climb something that actually looks reasonably good--you must've twisted his arm. Is the rock granitic, or gneiss?

fantastic. yeah, dreamy indeed -- appreciate the pictorial tour.

glad you guys enjoyed the report. tanstaafl: yeah, some bad humans left a bunch of junk at one site--got most of it, but lacked capacity for a shattered cooler. Kam: oh, tubby had cheese alright. a lack of cheese threatens his essence. I think you'd enjoy the route and the whole package, it's a beautiful area, and a nice weather option for poor west side wx. Kyle: saw your Berge report; good stuff, that route looks comparable in tech difficulty but of higher rock quality. it probably helps that it gets more 'traffic'. Here's another pic I forgot to post, with Cleator (visible) and Berge's (blocked behind Cleator) grand-daddy Buck looming in background: https://photos.app.goo.gl/axZRhc4xEvjcmumr7