Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by AlpineK

  1. RIP Frank Fickeisen

    On March 22, 2019 Frank Fickeisen passed away at the age of 93. Frank was President of the Seattle Mountaineers when I was born. As a climber he was part of the 6th ascent of Mt. Waddington in 1960. A few years ago I posted a Trip Report that describes the climb https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/53596-tr-mt-waddington-bravo-glacier-7281960/ There were no helicopters in those days, so they flew from Campbell River into a small lake south of the mountain. In addition Frank and friends flew in a ski plane into the St. Elias Range and ascended a few surrounding peaks in 1961 https://www.mountaineers.org/about/history/the-mountaineer-annuals/indexes-annuals-maps/the-mountaineer-1961?fbclid=IwAR1Pu914woYJGO_NkVi8bhdUJPdR99HXYt09-gxvcw6BZGZTKfK8JJALsL8 In addition to serving as President of the Mountaineers, Frank was also President of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs. For work Frank was employed by Boeing and worked on planes including the 707, 727, 747, and 767. In addition he was involved with Boeing's discarded plans to build an SST. In later times Frank was a major player in Extended Range Operations for Twin Jet planes. In the old days only 3 or 4 engine planes were allowed to make long flights (typically over oceans). The work benefitted both Boeing and Airbus https://www.nap.edu/read/6265/chapter/1 After retiring Frank took part in lots of hiking trips with friends and one multi day ski trip in Montana. He also taught me how to ski and took me on a few mountaineering trips. Attached photo of Frank on top of Mt. St. Helens in 1967
  2. Thirty years ago I took part in an attempt to ascend an unclimbed route on Mt Everest (NE Ridge). Our trip was during the post monsoon period (August-September). While we did have a period of good weather, snowfall became mostly non stop. At the end of August jetstream winds descended. No expedition attempting routes on the northern side of the mountain was able to summited that season. The route we attempted was the same route Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died on. In subsequent years I believe climbers have made it through a series of pinnacles, but no one has summitted via this route. Article: https://lmtribune.com/northwest/last-men-on-the-mountain/article_962a9909-5920-52f9-9413-3a857cf43f3f.html?utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&utm_campaign=user-share&fbclid=IwAR3eywumm7VM5nSMLcUJQRzbyt_KQ2tlTbKcSZPQW9Qb9u2Tdf13X6XHLbs It was interesting/depressing to see how some of the Chinese liaison officers treated Tibetans. When we new we were not going to summit, two brits and myself did a 20 mile walk down the road. We told others not to say anything to the main liaison officer until trucks scheduled to drive us to Nepal showed up. Once the liaison officer caught up with us, he was a bit pissed.
  3. Not Alaska and no drugs https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/41382-tr-pemberton-to-hurley-river-ski-traverse-3302006/?tab=comments#comment-558051
  4. Old Everest Expedition Article

    To the best of my knowledge, one or two groups have successfully climbed through a series of pinnacles where the ridge steepens. At that point the group or groups descended the north col route. It's still a long ways to the summit after ascending the pinnacles. You wouldn't meet up with the north col route until you are practically on the summit.
  5. Proposed Large Scale Quarry in Marblemount

    Thanks for posting the comment link. While just a small fish, I voiced negative comments regarding mining, extraction, and destruction of the environment. Maybe too little too late, but...
  6. Nothing will ever really be solved until the Royal Canadian Kilted Yaksmen are investigating
  7. chucK has passed away

    Chuck was a great guy! He and I climbed Burgundy Spire and Rebel Yell on Chiante. That was a great weekend trip.
  8. Snow snow snow

    I heard they were expecting 4-inches at Stevens pass this weekend, but that's on top of zero. Crystal mountain will have a couple easy/moderate runs open
  9. Snow snow snow

    According to NOAA Snoqualmie pass is forecast to receive snow by the weekend. Maybe not a ton of snow right away, but...
  10. Climbs on Whitehorse

    Skiing the north side could be good. We climbed that side long before skiing stuff like that was hip. If you hit conditions right it could be good, but I remember wading through bowling ball sized chunks of hardened snow.
  11. Snow snow snow

    Unfortunately I see lots of rain in the forecast, even up near Mt Larrabee.
  12. Glacier Peak Advice

    These days the most common route is via the White Chuck Basin. It's a long truck but not bad. Scrambling with snow and an ice ax are nice until you get below the Cool Glacier. From below the glacier until the summit snow/glacier condition are present You'll have to make a judgement on what you're comfortable with. It's fairly standard glacier climbing but weather and conditions can change or move in.
  13. Skis for Denali

    In the 90s I had some silvretta bindings that could connect to climbing boots. Not sure what the modern equivalent would be https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/1/0212/12/silvretta-404-ski-bindings-barely_1_69d42fdb12694bff63f74097a4342fa8.jpg I took them as far as the football field on Denali and skied slopes above when we were hanging out at the camp. Taking a setup that far was worth it.
  14. Dutch Harbor ski info

    Post a TR if you go. The closest I've been is Mount Cain http://www.mountcain.com/ and Shames Mountain http://www.mymountaincoop.ca/mountain/about-shames-mountain Those places were/are awesome
  15. Great pictures! Sir Donald is a great climb. Skiing in that cirque is great in the winter/spring too.
  16. Secret spot on the river http://ropewiki.com/File:Breitenbush_River_(South_Fork_North_Fork)-20160708213931_pic.jpg
  17. best of cc.com The Nodder?

    Fear not. the Nodder is near.
  18. best of cc.com The Nodder?

    Is Mrs. Alden OK?
  19. We climbed the N ridge then did one or two raps on the west ridge. From there we scrambled down the remaining portion.
  20. best of cc.com The Nodder?

    Can you believe it!
  21. NW Face Forbidden - W ridge notch approach

    Back in the dark ages (1980s) we bivied at the north ridge notch then climbed up and over the next day. It's a cool climb!
  22. Skins - maintenance

    I've attempted to pick needles and other debris off my skins. While it seems to work for sometime, I recently put my skins on plywood and under tension and proceeded to scrape the skins bare. Afterwards new skin glue was applied. The process seemed to do the trick. I used glue from a tube, but G3 sells a glue renew product. https://youtu.be/NGY1KCUC1fI
  23. Washington Pass conditions report

    Apparently NWAC and the TAY website either don't welcome or downgrade your opinions and or observations. NWAC is a joint effort between the USFS Avalanche Center and the non profit NWAC. While anyone can submit observations, NWAC forecasters get to make the call on the amount of information publicly provided. Sometimes that means making a judgement on when there is sufficient or too much information. If you feel they are ignoring vital information you can keep plugging or file a complaint. NWAC is a member of the American Avalanche Association and the National Avalanche Center. Those are the organizations you can contact. In addition NWAC files all governing documents and tax returns. These are available for public review. TAY is a private website. Public/member input is encouraged, but if enough site users dislike how you express yourself online, the site owner or moderators can ban or block you. The only alternative left is starting your own blog or going to a similar website and expressing your views there. Cascade Climbers is a good way to meet and talk to others who may have similar interests. On the other hand it isn't the best place if your primary interest is expressing complaints about other websites or organizations. You can post trip reports and add condition observations here...