scott_harpell Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I would be doing less than whimpering if i jumped on a 5.13 with shite gear. I have a few 'brown' points under my belt but i couldn't imagine doing them a couple grades higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Gee, to be as cool as Lance. I'm sure you know a lot about pulling drilled pockets up well bolted limestone overhangs, Lance. It's easy to have an epic, especially when your chalkbag doesn't match your rope, or you forget your favorite quickdraw and fall off the last clip of der Pencildick again. Seems like Vegas burns brain cells, going by the logic of your argument. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 (edited) Cracked, Your post makes no sense. Â I like Lance's posts. What do they have to do with sport climbing or chipping or whatever you are yammering about? Edited February 20, 2004 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 25, 2004 Author Share Posted February 25, 2004 This has nothing to do with judgement and everything to do with attitude. Have some backbone and do not complain, as life is good and you are free! Climbing history is full of people who were HARD, people with grit. Let's honor their spirit by keeping a firm upper lip. Â Great advice, as long as you are following it and not holding the expectation that others will be like you. Because, invariably, they won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 ChucK, see MisterE and Scott's posts. Lance's posts are a strange combination of pomposity, stupidity, and chest beating. Maybe he's tripping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 ...and maybe you are still complaining about last week's drivel. Â get over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 26, 2004 Share Posted February 26, 2004 I second (or third?) Damnation. Does it make sense to layback the lower 20 feet? Really awkward jamming for me... Â Hey MVS - Â I usually do a combination of fist jamming and laybacking for the first 25 feet. There are some really good features out on the face of Jello Tower that help. I think I usually walk a 3 Camalot up for the first 20 feet or so. Its easy to plug a lot of gear in the intial section. Fun route. Enjoy! Â For real OW enthusiasts, try Carnival Crack. I think it is easy for the grade although I was on TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted February 26, 2004 Share Posted February 26, 2004 For real OW enthusiasts, try Carnival Crack. I think it is easy for the grade although I was on TR. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted February 26, 2004 Share Posted February 26, 2004 I think that certain climbs like Damnation and Godzilla are not that difficult but demand competency in a variety of crack sizes to make them fit their grades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted February 26, 2004 Share Posted February 26, 2004 There are some really good features out on the face of Jello Tower that help. yeah tim, I must've missed those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 Â Maybe its my imagination..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Has anyone mentioned the route that to me seems the most sand-bagged of all time? Â Numbah Ten at 12a? Â Buahhahhahahahaahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Has anyone mentioned the route that to me seems the most sand-bagged of all time? Numbah Ten at 12a?  ----------------------------------------- Speaking of Index and its "rating system", has anyone reading this thread ever truly on sight flashed a route of 5.12a or harder at index? ( no watching anyone else work the moves, no rapping and equiping or bolting the route- just walk up to a new climb at a new cliff-- tie in and send?) As of 92' no one ever had (according to the mags)--has this changed?  Kind of puts the ratings into perpsective. Relative fit newbies can onsight 12a at a lot of other areas.  Not that I care-- but just food for thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Jens – You have made the same post twice in this thread. Arguments about ratings aside the magazine article you are referencing is incorrect.  Numbah 10 .12b – I believe this was flashed by Peter Mayfield. I believe he agreed witrh the rating.  Iron Horse .12a – Although he may have climbed to the ringing flake before I think that Dick flashed up the flare and roof on the first complete free ascent. Dick rated the route.  Bat Skins .12b – I believe this was flashed by Russ Clune. He suggested the rating to me in a dicussion.  Big Science .12b – Wasn’t this flashed by Lynn Hill?  With the exception of Big Science, which I am unsure of, all of these ascents occurred before 1992. There have been lots of Index 5.12 flashes. The odd thing is why would anyone think that someone was/could keep track of them. I mention the above because someone already brought up #10 and collectively they account for most of the classic .12s at the Lower Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 I stand corrected. Â Thanks for the info. Â ---------------------- Â Sounds like some heavy hitters (Hill, Clune, Mayfield) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 As far as sandbags go Trapeze to the left of Carnival Crack seemed impossible. The crux move on Killer B's seemed pretty darn hard too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 I thought Steel Monkey was really hard for the grade, but then again I was tired when I tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 that climb was cool huh? i'd like to give'er a go on lead as opposed to the shenanigains i got involved with the last time not that theres anything wrong with steep loose blocks wedged in mud and moss...-bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchandsniff Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 The smell of a flame war about to erupt I sense. Â I've heard of several solid 5.10 gym climbers going up to Amphetamine Grip at Smith and wimpering like little puppies at the last 20 foot or so run-out. They say its 5.7, hmmmm. Maybe 5.7D. Â To think Steve and Danny were on a 3 day amphetimine binge (no sleep for 2 days) climbing with loose crap like only a first ascent at Smith can invoke: it still emits wonder when you think of it. Â Â Chairman Maos little red book always seem harder than the 11a rating- right around the corner from Amphetine grip at Smith. I think ya need to sack up and not stop in the crux to pro it. Since I have small sacks, I haven't got it nailed down just yet. Â Â And most of the stuff on castle rock, but that could just be me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 The Nose seemed no harder than Z crack, just scarier. Killer B's has a really nasty weightshift/traverse move that someone who's spent too much time on plastic would enjoy and find easy. Anything you can bypass with a shoulderstand at Index is not factored into the rating IMHO I vote for Lev "easy" 3rd class descents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Chairman Maos little red book always seem harder than the 11a rating- right around the corner from Amphetine grip at Smith. I think ya need to sack up and not stop in the crux to pro it. Since I have small sacks, I haven't got it nailed down just yet. Â I thought that Mao's little red book was kinda soft for the grade. pretty much just tenuous stemming. The pro is good and the actual crux section seems pretty short. I believe I remember getting in several bomber nuts and a few aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I hear that OS is a 5.10+ masquerading as a lowly 5.9! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Snag Crack on Domestic Dome seams harder than 5.7 to me. Tool Time at Pearly Gates - 5.9+, yeah right. Â How the heck do you do the first move on Leap of Faith at P.G. anyways? Dyno off a 2 finger jamb with no feet. Shit feels harder than 10D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 You place a yellow Friend and yard on it to start Leap of Faith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 (edited) I am surprised no one has mentioned Angel Crack yet. That would rate #1 on my list of sandbag 5.10a routes. Â jja, agree with Dogleg being very stiff and scary for a "5.8". Â Model Worker, I am not sure about. Â I think the 2nd pitch one move wonder "10b" move off the ledge on Godzilla is way harder than 10b. Maybe I just need tricounis. Â Â Edited May 24, 2005 by Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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