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chucK last won the day on October 29 2019

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About chucK

  • Birthday 10/16/1962


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    the ruthless 9 to 5

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  1. Last pitch of Curious Cube (my avatar!) at Static Point. Big ol' flake peeled off like 15 years ago. Perhaps i have the last ascent! Maybe all of Static Point is lost to the ages. Anybody ever go out there any more?
  2. I have to think nuclear power would be our best bet if it were not a third rail of politics. A politician arguing for nuclear power is going to get hate from the left on general misguided principle along with all the fossil fuel corps are people too. It is true that nuclear power is a little scary. There could be an accident that poisons a limited geographic area until the practical end of time, but what is global warming going to do to the entire world? The particulate pollution from fossil fuel burning is basically poisoning all the air in the vicinity. Other methods of energy extraction also destroy limited geographic areas: mining for coal (open pit mines) or hydroelectric projects (RIP lovely river valleys). Seems like it's time to take the risk on nuclear. How many nuclear power disasters have we had? Chernobyl, Three Mile Island (close call?), and Fukushima? Any more? Fukushima got hit by a once-in-100 year disaster and how many people died? Like 14? How many die every year in a single coal mine in China?
  3. That peak is "Little BIG Chief". Here's a report of an ascent in 2001
  4. I ran into a couple backpacks up there on August 3rd. They were about where you mention them, on the rib West of Long John Tower, but they were not stashed in a crevice they were up on a rib. Probably the same ones and somebody moved them in the 3 weeks since I'd been there? I found an article on the web (maybe the one you found) https://www.ncwlife.com/injured-climber-airlifted-mt-stuart/ that is dated 8/8/2018 and notes the rescue was "yesterday". So, maybe the dates don't match up?
  5. You did it with a single rope. How did you like that hanging rapell station, first rap over the South Face?
  6. I did the West Ridge (descended CC) and was able to almost completely avoid snow. You should be good for the descent. Can't speak to the North Ridge approach though.
  7. SRENE! Is that the route across the beer-cooler glacier from Total Soul?
  8. I camped at the lake many years ago and there was one pretty exposed cliff we had to get down, so that might not be a good option. I was surprised at how untrammeled the lakeshore was, so I would expect there is not an easy way down there. Hidden Lakes peak was quite nice though, really nice scrambling on amazing white granite (iirc). Summit block of Sahale is very exposed climbing. Most will enjoy having a rope at least to get down. I had the same experience on Whitechuck as curtveld.
  9. We climbed this (to top of pitch 8) a few weeks ago. Our leader backed off on pitch 6 because he thought we would not make it to top with a 60m rope. We ended up breaking into two pitches by belaying at a single bolt. Did you guys have to simul pitch 6 at all, or does it make it with 60's? The bush dive on pitch 7 is totally ridiculous. Seems like putting those two traverse bolts above the bush dive out on the face instead would have made that pitch a classic instead of leaving one with a bad taste in the mouth (and pine needles in the underwear). But what do I know? We climbed p1-8 with just draws and a #4 Camalot (placed multiple times)! That is all the rack you need
  10. Any Pocket Glacier news after this weekend?
  11. How bold I am decides whether I go for it or not. Just wondered what is the nature of the exposure. Racing across slabs dodging sliding blocks, or slow roped climbing waiting to be flossed off by sliding blocks, or climbing on top of something that might become a sliding block? Which of these daring feats might be required?
  12. So...if one were to climb the NE Butt when the Pocket Glacier is still there, what do you have to do wrt the PG? Do you have to climb on top of the PG snow, just skedaddle below it, climb slowly and arduously below it, a combination of the above?
  13. Here's something that might give you pause closeup: warning explicit language!
  14. Standard D-town rack. Single cams, and draws, I think. You could bring stoppers if you want. Don't remember how big you want to go with the cams (maybe a #3 on the first move, and then *maybe* on the last pitch? I will ping someone who knows for sure. You'll need to be able to rap 50m pitches to get down.
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