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MCash

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Everything posted by MCash

  1. Climb: Static Point-Lost Charms Date of Climb: 10/21/2006 Trip Report: My friend Bruce and I were were anxious to get in 1 last alpine outing this year before the weather turns to crap. The forecast looked great for Saturday so we decided on some climbing at either Darrington or Static Point. We had both been to Darrington many times so Static Point it was. Bruce had done Online before, so we checked out the other lines there. Fuddhat/Kill The Rabbit and Lost Charms both looked fun, but we decided on Lost Charms, mostly because it is a gear route. The approach took us a little under an hour at a nice relaxed pace. The cutoff for the climbers path going up the hill is marked with a cairn by the third culvert. We arrived at the base on Online and started our traverse over. It looked exposed in a couple spots so we roped up and scrambled accross to the base of the second major tree. I lead up the first pitch which consisted of traversing flake systems on a slab with a few cracks here and there for pro. We couldn't find the fixed pin in the topo. This pitch was a fairly dirty in spots. Bruce lead the second pitch which climbed a series of right facing flake systems up to the base of The Pillar, an obvious large detached section of granite. I lead up the next pitch jambing and liebacking up the right side of the pillar. I came to where I needed to traverse over to get on top of the bridge flake, but I couldn't figure out the way accross. The only thing I found was hard featureless slab and no protection. I traversed over and liebacked the thin crack on the left side of The Pillar to its top. Bruce following... We rapped off the bolt down to the top of the bridge flake and discovered our mistake. You are actually supposed to travers over to the bottom of the bridge flake then climb some face holds to get to the top. Woops. I lead up our 4th pitch traversing the top of the bridge flake then up the 5.6 tips crack, which was more like a seam, only allowing me a #1 and #2 ballnut placement in it. The pitch finishes up with a fun flake system. Maybe I did it wrong but this pitch felt more like 5.8 than 5.6. Bruce following it... Here is a photo I took of a climber leading the 2nd pitch of Shock Treatment. Bruce got the 5th pitch which was the 2nd 5.9 pitch. It starts with some fun left angling flake systems which you can finger traverse then reaches the route's only bolt. The bolt protects a few 5.9 slab moves then you undercling this fun offwidth lieback flake to the top. Bruce leading it... The last pitch traverses to the left then up a long thin flake then tops out at the top of the buttress at a bolted anchor. The flake portion of this pitch was pretty fun but the top is kinda grungy. Bruce following it... Overall, this climb is pretty good. The slab lines here look nice too. On the way down we TRed the 10b pitch of Online which was a lot of fun. Gear Notes: Set of cams to a #3 camalot #1 and #2 ballnuts are nice 1/2 set of nuts 2 60 meter ropes Approach Notes: Easy trail
  2. Raveltik Demon Super Cup Ice Tools for sale, the 2004 edition. Used for 5 years. They climb water ice very well. Almost identical in feel and weight balance to a Charlet Moser Quark. In good condition, paid $260 ,asking $100. PM me if interested.
  3. Mid-Week Index or Exit 38?

    Anyone up for this Wednesday or Thursday after work? The forecast is looking good so far.
  4. Petit Verdot

    Anyone know of a local wine store where you can buy this variety? Every place I've looked doesn't have it. It's grown on Vancouver Island, Nappa Valley, and Australia, but not in Washington. I'm interested in the 100% variety, not a blend with Cab and Merlot. Thanks.
  5. Chehalis Range BC - Chehalis Lake Slide

    The North Face of Ratney is accessible via Lower Statlu Lake, so, yes, access is good. I have no idea on StoneRabbit.
  6. Chehalis Range BC - Chehalis Lake Slide

    This does not affect Chehalis Access as far as I can tell. That road was already washed out with no plans for it to be fixed. The way in now is via Mystery Creek with doesn't go near the lake. The Mystery Creek way was nice and smooth last year, you could do it a normal 2wd car with low clearance.
  7. Nice work Rad! Cool pics.
  8. Local overhanging cracks

    Fun Forrest (Exit 47), on the far right crag are two overhanging thin cracks. One is 11b and the other is 12b if I remember correctly. We hopped on the 11b one, it was quite good. Maybe 10 to 15 degrees overhanging and leaning to the left. Jambs varied from fingers to thin hands. Make sure you tape up first, some crystals in the crack. The 12b one is friggen hard, neither of us could even do the entry move. I forgot the names, one of them is called Clash City Crack I believe.
  9. Lower Castle rock photos?

    Trees are your friend.
  10. Local overhanging cracks

    It's 11a and not overhanging. That one move at the top doesn't count. How about Carnival Crack, overhanging 10D offwidth.
  11. Peshastin Pinnacles revival

    Went to Peshastin for the first time in over 4 years this past Saturday. Had a really great time. The weather was perfect and the climbing a lot of fun. We did some crack lines and TRed some 5.10 face / slab pitches. It's too bad you couldn't lead these (almost no pro). The routes there are pretty unique and a nice change of pace. Thanks for the great TR and pics and inspiring me to go back.
  12. Name that Crack

    Marty Bland's new FA?
  13. I won't touch the route until I hear back from Jim.
  14. Nice job. Good writeup and sweet photos.
  15. My standards are hardly divine. I am simply against the precedent of placing bolts next to protectable cracks. Nothing more. Absolutlely. I love everything he's done. I contacted him directly regarding this issue. Let's see wht he has to say. Not true. I've done crag cleanup efforts, trail maintenance, helped with route development, rescrubbed routes, helped teach classes, and provided tons of beta and photos on climbing. Let's keep to the topic at hand - Go Cat Go at Vantage.
  16. By that misguided mentality, then maybe we should bolt every crack climb out there. Bolting crack climbs is WRONG, nothing you say will change that fact.
  17. 1. I have climbed the route. 2. This has NOTHING to do with being a tough guy or manly. You really don't understand the term "climbing ethics" do you? Please educate yourself regarding the topic first. I will contact Jim and find out what is up. I like the route and don't want to see it ruined. Is that so bad?
  18. Whatever Marty. You don't intimidate me one bit, in person or over the internet. You don't even trad climb, so what would you know about ethics anyways.
  19. So you're condoning bolting a crack climb? WTF.
  20. If you want it back PM me with how it is marked. Top of pitch #4.
  21. perfect fall day

    Agreed. I love that one. BWR following it.
  22. Mtn Loop Hiway reopens

    Drove to Darrington via the Loop this morning. The road is in great shape and they did a nice job with the slope stabilization.
  23. perfect fall day

    It WAS beautiful today. What formation were you on? We were on X-Dome.
  24. That is silly. The upper crack takes perfect gear.
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