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Biggest SandBag [Local Route]


EWolfe

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RuMR said:

no...i think .11d for index is right on...its in the range of stuff like full iron horse and shirley...a bit harder than jap gardens...

 

remember conversion factor...

 

.11d-->12a/b or b at squamish...that's about right, don't you think??

 

No, I do belive it feels like .12 something. Even in comparison to other .11d routes at Index.

 

Just my humble opinion.

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Crackbolter said:

Yes but was it sandbag?

 

when i did the climb, it seemed about right to me but what do i know (a bit sustained may be). i am not sure i can discriminate within one letter grade anyway. cool pitch though.

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Sagitarius is a sandbag for me. It's a really cool climb, for sure, with good pro and interesting cruxes, but not a good lead for a "I can climb 5.10 in the gym" climber, as there is much jamming, scumming, grunting and bloodying of knees.

 

Erik, the prince of Index calls it Sagi-scary-ous. wave.gif

 

If an arrogant French (is this redundant?) climber were walking round the base of the LTW, I would tell him to climb Sagitarius. "mon ami, c'est le Index experience...you must try it... a perfect warm up to City Park..."

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Matt said:

Sagitarius is a sandbag for me. It's a really cool climb, for sure, with good pro and interesting cruxes, but not a good lead for a "I can climb 5.10 in the gym" climber, as there is much jamming, scumming, grunting and bloodying of knees.

 

Erik, the prince of Index calls it Sagi-scary-ous. wave.gif

 

If an arrogant French (is this redundant?) climber were walking round the base of the LTW, I would tell him to climb Sagitarius. "mon ami, c'est le Index experience...you must try it... a perfect warm up to City Park..."

 

I haven't had the balls to lead this one yet. I have top-roped it. I think it is one of those climbs that it is not technically very difficult, but can be mentally devistating on lead. I have watched a few people lead it with serious difficulty.

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Where is the hardcore guy who comes flaming in here to say: bullshit, you pussies. You are a bunch of whiners. Index ratings are just fine - everywhere else is soft. I remember the old days when Angel was 5.7, while Damnation, and Outer Space were rated 5.8 -- those were ratings! And whadayameen about Toxic Shock. I see kids going up there, climbing the 5.5 Even Steven start, liebacking the handcrack, and saying they climbed 5.9. Climber's these days....

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Al_Pine said:

Minx if you got small hands then Breakfast of Champions must be perfect for you right at the bottom (crux) then turn into overhanging OW hellno3d.gif. No wonder you think it's hard!

 

Libra Crack is basically BOC without the extra 40 feet of overhanging handcrack. So if you really think Libra crack is a sandbag then BOC has gotta be on your list too.

 

 

Lizard Chimney? Anyone think that's a sandbag at 5.8? 5.8 is a pretty weird grade I guess.

 

 

right on the money w/BOC...the start is strenuous for me but goes reasonably well. the upper portion is some horrid combination of fists and whatever else i can jam in there hellno3d.gif kicks my ass

 

libra thumbs_up.gif first couple moves always get me a little but pretty much that's perfect hands for me. love that crack!

 

that chimney is just funky...i haven't climbed it the same way twice and i think it's hard to grade an OW anyway sometimes.

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Bullshit, you pussies. You are a bunch of whiners. Index ratings are just fine - everywhere else is soft. I remember the old days when Angel was 5.7, while Damnation, and Outer Space were rated 5.8 -- those were ratings! And whadayameen about Toxic Shock. I see kids going up there, climbing the 5.5 Even Steven start, liebacking the handcrack, and saying they climbed 5.9. Climber's these days...

 

yellaf.gif Couldn't resist the temptation, mattp.

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bird said:

I haven't had the balls to lead this one [sagitarius] yet. I have top-roped it. I think it is one of those climbs that it is not technically very difficult, but can be mentally devistating on lead. I have watched a few people lead it with serious difficulty.

 

You think that's maybe because of the lieback factor?

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