scott_harpell Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 ya mean like this michelle? this was before i learnt the easy way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 ehmmic said: At the top part before the reach to the ledge it is still decent tight hands for me. If #2 is tight hands for someone, I bet that they get crappy fingers or tips up higher. Â You guys handjam that thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Al-they don't know "the trick." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Handjamming would be easier than the way I do it, ... except when it's wet toward the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 mattp said: Al-they don't know "the trick." Â it felt 5.10 the first time i did it. now it is cruiser. amazing how much a difference 'it' makes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 The easy way is to traverse out left from the base of the chimney about thirty feet, climb up a short corner with an old mining anchor, then traverse back to the top of the chimney. Isn't that how everybody does that pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Al_Pine said: Handjamming would be easier than the way I do it, ... except when it's wet toward the back. Â Al Pine - I've already given you too much beta... BTW if you and the family are headed south for Turkey day send me a pm and I'll give you the beta on the Central Cal pub club. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 (edited) How can you handjam a lovely blank-walled perfect butt-foot chimenee!? That's like laybacking a splitter handcrack! Like grabbing holds on a perfect friction slab! Like NOT clipping the bolts on an Exit 38 sport climb!!!!!! . . It's like walking to the top of El Cap. Â Â ETA: obviously Mattp has identified himself as on of the Aries apologists! Edited November 25, 2003 by Al_Pine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Ehmic - Â We don't need your stinking "little hands" beta. If you get hand jams in the upper part of that corner, your "easy way" won't work for guys like me. Â I find it much easier to stay out of the corner, like maybe six or eight feet out, where I can chimney up the thing feet vs butt. If I recall correctly, it is better to face north so you get a hand bucket you can use to pull out of the chimney, though it is more intuitive to start up facing the other way. But you've suggested that "further out" it wants to "poop you out," so I'm taking it you don't climb it this way. Â Al- I make no apologies when I go around the other way. I simply say: do you want to climb the chimney? The answer is just about always "no." The apologies kick in when the guy says "yes," but he doesn't want to lead it, and I futz around a while getting psyched for the chimney. "Sorry, I thought I knew how to climb this thing... just a minute... I got it...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 i am gonna have to nominate damnation (that is the one opposite of angel right?). oh and matt. earlier you were (in jest) saying that angel was 5.7. that is prolly cause it was a good deal shorter back in the day. i saw a picture and the erosion is amazing. i couldn't believe this was the same climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Scott- The crux moves on Angel were the same, though perhaps a little less polished, when it was rated 5.7. If you read the text, though, it mentioned a "bouldery start" or something like that and it may have mentioned something about 5.10. But the route was listed in the old guidebook as 5.7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Fucking sport climbers trashing the climbing areas!! There was no erosion there before they bolted DDD!!! Â Mattp, ok, not an Aries apologist...perhaps an Aries avoider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 what text? yeah it makes sense that it would not be graded a 5.10 cause of two moves. i wish the whole climb was like that. two pitches of that would be schweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 Scott - i think it was listed in the old "Leavenworth and Index" guide - ca 1976 or so. Before your time, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 It's graded 5.7 with the "bouldery start" addendum in the white Kramar guide (two editions ago?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 mattp said: Scott - i think it was listed in the old "Leavenworth and Index" guide - ca 1976 or so. Before your time, I think. Â 5 years or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 25, 2003 Share Posted November 25, 2003 MisterE said: Nice auto-sig, Pope! Â Glad to hear about The Nose. A couple of years ago, I onsighted MF, and then, feeling good about that, went for the onsight of The Nose and got completely spanked. Had to bail and leave a piece. I am usually pretty good at thin fingers, but couldn't figure that one out and was really frustrated, cuz it was only supposed to be one letter grade harder. Â Â NICE PIC!! OLD SCHOOL Â I OS'ed the Nose a few years ago but I thought the MF overhang looked harder and still haven't tried it. The Nose on Jello Tower seemed to be right at my OS ability when I led it and I thought it felt more like .11bs at Smith at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 texplorer said: ..but I thought the MF overhang looked harder and still haven't tried it... Â Its not bad at all. A little sequency but really only 10c and very short. Â I nominate the Pressure Chamber pitch as ultra sandbag at 10c/d. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 MF is a one move climb and as such is kinda hard to use as a standard. I don't think the Nose is really under rated consider the direct finish to MF. Certainly that is considerably harder than the Nose. Â I agree with the pope that C & B is not poorly rated but I think that it is a harder lead than Thin Fingers or even Presure Drop at Index. Â Everyone seems to be discussing differences of a letter grade or two - hardly a sandbag. What about Princely Ambitions? That seems a huge step over Godzilla as a lead. Â PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chockstone Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 I hear one time Easter Oberhang was 5.9 rat. Now might be hard than today rate but nice crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 26, 2003 Share Posted November 26, 2003 Peter_Puget said: MF is a one move climb and as such is kinda hard to use as a standard. I don't think the Nose is really under rated consider the direct finish to MF. Certainly that is considerably harder than the Nose. Â I agree with the pope that C & B is not poorly rated but I think that it is a harder lead than Thin Fingers or even Presure Drop at Index. Â Everyone seems to be discussing differences of a letter grade or two - hardly a sandbag. What about Princely Ambitions? That seems a huge step over Godzilla as a lead. Â PP Â when i think back, there were no moves that were undergraded, but it has kinda heady. he traverse kinda freaked me out a bit, but i think all the move were all in at about 5.9+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 26, 2003 Author Share Posted November 26, 2003 There's always The Turkey Monster... Â Happy Thanksgiving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 What about Caboose at the now defunct Lower Malamute ? Â That was solid 10b no? Holy pump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 Peter_Puget said: MF is a one move climb and as such is kinda hard to use as a standard. I don't think the Nose is really under rated consider the direct finish to MF. Certainly that is considerably harder than the Nose. Â I agree with the pope that C & B is not poorly rated but I think that it is a harder lead than Thin Fingers or even Presure Drop at Index. Â Everyone seems to be discussing differences of a letter grade or two - hardly a sandbag. What about Princely Ambitions? That seems a huge step over Godzilla as a lead. Â PP Â I think Pressure Drop is a fine pitch at 5.10b, and by that I mean it would be rated no harder than 10b just about any place I've climbed. Â Anybody climbed Alley-Oop Chimney? How about the original 1st pitch of Yak Crack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 pope, improve your trolling technique. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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