scott_harpell Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 Norsky said: What about Caboose at the now defunct Lower Malamute ? That was solid 10b no? Holy pump! i read that the railway was no longer owned by B.C. rail as of yesterday. wonder if that will effect access? prolly not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 27, 2003 Share Posted November 27, 2003 pope said original first pitch [should be first TWO PITCHES...] of yak crack some friends of mine went to do yak crack and there was a party in the chimney and the leader dropped a #3 big bro which nearly killed one of my friends. the big bro got bent like a banana. that's an expensive fumble! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 On hand sizes have you guys climbed "Introductory Offer" at the Bend? It spanked ever "solid" male 10 leader and then the woman with us cruised it! Check it out next time your at Tieton. And ladies, send the men up first and watch 'em squirm! I know the guy who put it up (FKA anyway) and he has small hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 (smith)Wedding Day feels good at 10B, but everybody tells me different. I’ve climbed a few other 10B with challenging cruxes, how about the one next to Screaming Yellow Zonkers (10D)? (leaveworth)Canary 5.8 P1 exit moves feels 5.8 technique, maybe burly and a bit awkward. But how about (gunks)Wrist 5.6 last pitch roof exit moves? I’d agree that Seneca and Gunks and Index each feel hard, similar but uniquely. (snow creek wall)Outerspace 5.9 finishing the Pedestal Pitch at 5.6 seemed OK; but, then, I didn’t feel the 5.9 in the crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 I second (or third?) Damnation. Does it make sense to layback the lower 20 feet? Really awkward jamming for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 27, 2004 Share Posted January 27, 2004 Damnation is 5.9 max. I didnt read the contents here related to it.. The hard move comes in the first 25 feet I think. Then it's good technique from there and easier. Some might and have called it 5.8.. Hone your problem technique is my advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 Sure, I will work on it in the spring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nugs_Satchel Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 Hemp Liberation at Smith is a sandbag. Dude musta been ripp'd when he rated that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 28, 2004 Share Posted January 28, 2004 I agree with caveman on Damnation. That's a great climb though. I would also say that Godzilla is a great one but very very close to a .10a. Not sure on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 17, 2004 Share Posted February 17, 2004 Model Worker at Index fells like a total sandbag to me. Others? Hey Mr.E... wanna hear sumpin' funny? My wife, at the HUGE height of 5'-1" tall flashed that thing...climbed all the way up, did the splits, reached down and USED HER LEFT ANKLE as a handhold...then hiked the rest of the route... Pissed me off...i fell off the stupid thing my first go! had to listen to endless heckling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Damnation 5.9.....I've done it several times and its always felt like a "real" 5.8. The lower part is just weird and off hands/fist. The upper section is weird to start but once you get situated, its a breeze. The weird thing I see is as the average climbers ability skyrockets due to training, gyms, protection, etc, then why are we making the grades of established grades harder when the people who established them did more with less in most of the above categories. Maybe we should be downgrading the climbs, like calling Damnation 5.7 and Godzilla 5.8+. What ya think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Hey Tim ...how's canucky land treatin' you? The reason why the ratings are going up instead of down is the gyms...rank beginners get on "10's" in the gym and then expect that grade to match outside...they then get spanked and bitch... I'll get back to you on your email...just super busy these days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan_taylor Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 numbah ten, first two bolts, and the roof on natural log cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Natural Log cabin? I have climbed to the crux on that climb...incredible! A route that deserves more cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 The reason why the ratings are going up instead of down is the gyms...rank beginners get on "10's" in the gym and then expect that grade to match outside...they then get spanked and bitch... It's been a long time since I've been in a gym, but I always found the 5.X ratings applied to those things bizarre, but I found the ratings hard compared to the real world. Funny that it swings the other way for gym folk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 there are no sandbagged routes. only fatass climbers with excuses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 there are no sandbagged routes. only fatass climbers with excuses. I'm sure you recall the old "Joshua Tree 5.9" systematic sandbag system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 there are no sandbagged routes. only fatass climbers with excuses. I'm sure you recall the old "Joshua Tree 5.9" systematic sandbag system. it dont matter what a climb is numbered. either it is a worthy climb or it is a sucky climb or it is something in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Lummox pretty much summed up the whole thread into one blinding sentence of truth. Examples:Oh, I dont sport climb,... too many people. Bouldering? I prefer to climb "real" mountains. Trad is scary, so much crap! We prefer the gym, the ratings are more consistent inside.. Saying things like this still makes you out to be soft. We all love a complainer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Lummox pretty much summed up the whole thread into one blinding sentence of truth. Examples:Oh, I dont sport climb,... too many people. Bouldering? I prefer to climb "real" mountains. Trad is scary, so much crap! We prefer the gym, the ratings are more consistent inside.. Saying things like this still makes you out to be soft. We all love a complainer! Whatever. All you guys trying to be hard asses. If the gear is thin, I wanna know how fucking hard it is. It is called risk management. If you dont know the risks, sooner or later you are gonna die. I am not willing to jump on a climb that might be 5.11 might be 5.13 with gear that is not great. I know you wouldn't either so anything you say here is just B.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 This has nothing to do with judgement and everything to do with attitude. Have some backbone and do not complain, as life is good and you are free! Climbing history is full of people who were HARD, people with grit. Let's honor their spirit by keeping a firm upper lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I compare everything to its comparative grade at Index. I consider those grades fairly right on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 This has nothing to do with judgement and everything to do with attitude. Have some backbone and do not complain, as life is good and you are free! Climbing history is full of people who were HARD, people with grit. Let's honor their spirit by keeping a firm upper lip. Whatever. Do you onsight cracks with marginal gear that look cool no matter what their grade even if they may be 2 full numbers above your ability? I dont think so. How about you honor their spirit by not pretending to be one of them eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I compare everything to its comparative grade at Index. I consider those grades fairly right on. I agree, but I guess I may be biased as that is where I learned to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Let he without guilt cast the first stone... We all get in over our head sometimes,we just try not to lose our composure...back off, grab gear, run it out, S#!t your pants...the stuff of legend! In the end, epics are more memorable (and interesting). I have cried,wimpered and scrached my way up things, don't get me wrong, I just want to do it with style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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