Jens

Tr'd this many years ago. 5.11 climbing to a hard overlapping flare problem. Core intensive. Midnight is awesome. instagram @jensklub

Gotta Love Jberg! Did seven routes on the thing. instagram @jensklub

Always wondered about that Tower. Cool TR. From a few of the vantage points it resembles Washington Column for us California folks. instagram @jensklub

Good TR!

Bring a carton of cigarettes to trade with the Euros for all the food and fuel you'd ever need.

Could a crew work on this with the access fund? I miss that place. Really unique movement.

So long W.L Gore?

That area has always reminded me of the Alps.

Awesome!

Who are these guys?

I streaked a 200 foot one below the great roof on El Cap's Nose once. When you gotta go, you gotta go. French guides will poo on your head in the alps....

As for Fossil, Ted's Wall or Ottoman Empire rebolted with all the drilled pockets filled in and remaining bolt on holds removed could provide Rudy's kid and all the the other next generation upstarts with sectors that could someday hold more promise than any other sector in Washington. I haven't climbed a ton in Europe but this sector looks like Frankenjura. You need overhanging dry rock and small features. We don't have good limestone closer than seven hours from Puget Sound. The main fossil wall has unlimited potential for steep overhanging features.Ironically, 95% of the current Fossil Rock traffic (and most of the posters on this site) is at the vertical areas. These kids will have long since climbed out all the North Bend and World Wall type crags and their contrived linkups and extensions (and extensions of extensions) and be bored of the index pin scars and slabs. If you've travelled a bit, you know what I mean in terms of steep rock and small features. You can throw out most sandstone and granite areas. I can think of no better rock climbing areas in the state for the months of December and January. Is RumR's kid or Sean B, gonna send the line left of Scarface ten years from now..unless Ondra beats them to it? Fossil is worth saving. Go through your guidebooks and look at all the areas that are "climbed out".

This is horrible news. Can we get the access fund involved? If I wasn't moving to California for a couple of years starting this July I would be all over this. Fossil provides a very unique niche in the arsenal of Washington crags. A near sea level (warm in winter with no snow)cluster of 8 or so crags that stay dry and doesn't seep like all the other overhanging areas in WA. It is worth saving. Also from a historical perspective it has one of the first if not the first 5.13 sport route in Washington (now chopped though). It also provides gymnastic 3D movement that is not found on vertical granite sport routes at Index, etc. If a climber wakes up on a rainy Saturday morning in late December this could be about the only crag in the state good to go. N.Bend, Equinox, etc. areas seep and everything east of the crest will likely be snowed in or cold. The small features on overhanging rock could allow some really hard routes for future generations to bolt. The average Seattle sport climber that may only visit a couple of times a year likely wouldn't spring for the 150 bucks and I bet the 750 permits get snatched up quickly by the hunters so local climbers will also be out of luck. Enforcement of this crazy idea is easy. Criminal trespass citations can be issued by the timber companies. My brother got one once. The local sheriff can grant these powers to the timber security guards.

Thanks for bringing this info about the hangers to light. I heard a rumor that BD moved all of their production to China.

Aside from Ueli, Mountain Hardware stuff is and has always been the gear of the gumby. My MH pieces have gone to the trash after putting them through the ringer.

Ah, if I had a tip jar for every time Dr. Doom's name came up on a long car ride or road trip to go climbing....

Amen to that! The pickin's have been good lately.

This guy is for real. Ice is thin, but coming in fast.

AMAZING! If this wasn't a bad week at work, I'd be skipping out for a go at that. That route is more inspiring than Yosemite's Widow's Tears before global warming took off. Nice send guys! I've seen it in partially iced conditions and it has that air of Canada's unrepeated Theft in Lillooet.

Some drips coming in around Alpental. Good short fun. If these temps stay low, next weekend will be awesome!

Bolting routes and not being able to send. Turning into a full blown sport climber weenie after a long hiatus.

Clipping the draws on Powerdive @ Smith last time I took a spin was quite scary. Some of them were as sharp as razors. I clipped one draw @ Mt. Charleston once that was sharper than a razor. I'm surprised we don't hear of more rope failures.

I don't think you know what you are talking about. What leads me to believe this? You are not comparing types of rubber, just brands. 5.10 currently uses at least four different types of rubber for their various climbing shoes models. La Sportiva uses at least two types of rubber. What are you comparing, Onyxx, C4, Mystique, Edge, Grip....? If you are going to throw around generalizations at least state what you are comparing. Chad As for all the 5.10 rubbers,I've used stealth 1 stealth 2 (back in the day), C4, Stealth HF, and Oynx. I will admit, I have not used mystique. Only Charles Cole has the true recipes...many say the original stealth 2 was reincarnated as HF. On the vibram side of things I have used xsv, xsgrip, and xsedge....oh and on much smaller holds and/or steeper real estate than the routes of your likely grades, although I've never seen you climb so I shouldn't make that judgement.

In warm weather, the XS rubber is better than any 5.10 rubber by a mile. In cold temps,the 5.10 rubber definitely smears better but does not edge nearly as well.

Thanks for the report. That looks to be the fattest roadside ice in Pacific Time zone right now (baring Alaska).