EWolfe Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Model Worker at Index fells like a total sandbag to me. Others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 I've always thought Breakfast of Champions was kind of hard for the .10a rating. Also, I think the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell is one of the most underestimated routes around. My N. Cascades Alpine guide says 5.5! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Saber, sure it's easy but it feels harder than 5.4. Both classic crack and dogleg crack at 5.8 felt pretty hard to me. At smith the 'panic' pitch coming out of the monkey's mouth - not the straight up bolt ladder, but the rightward traverse - felt way hard at 5.7. The crack to the left of bbq the pope feels harder than 10a at the top. Everything at index. (i so suck) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 21, 2003 Author Share Posted November 21, 2003 speaking of which - wedding day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 jja, I think that the 'traverse' variation on the Pioneer route is supposed to be 5.8. As for sandbags, I nominate Libra crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 that 10c around the corner to the right of cling-on at smith. red book says "harder than it looks". yeah. calamity jam, the lieback section near the start heading left. and I'll put in my usual pitch for classic crack at broughton's bluff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 MattP Beckey route isn't 5.6. That was my first climb until then I had just done some 4th class scrambling and honestly thought that it wasn't harder then anything I hadn't climbed before. For Sandbags I'm going with zoom 10b at index and I couldn't even get off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 eric8 said: MattP Beckey route isn't 5.6. That was my first climb until then I had just done some 4th class scrambling and honestly thought that it wasn't harder then anything I hadn't climbed before. For Sandbags I'm going with zoom 10b at index and I couldn't even get off the ground. that isn't even the hard part! sport at index is killa fer rilla! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 4th class scrambling class 4 means 5.8 yo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 eric8 said: MattP Beckey route isn't 5.6. That was my first climb until then I had just done some 4th class scrambling and honestly thought that it wasn't harder then anything I hadn't climbed before. For Sandbags I'm going with zoom 10b at index and I couldn't even get off the ground. i think zoom is in darryl's guide as 10c/d? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 eric8 said: MattP Beckey route isn't 5.6. No, eric8, look again: I said it wasn't 5.5. However, if backed into a corner I'll say it isn't 5.6 either (that slab where Fred and Helmey gave each other a shoulder stand is 5.7 for one move, I think). Also, most topo's and route descriptions make it sound like three relatively straight-forward pitches - most "newbie" climbers belay about five pitches and find them far from straight-forward. Then there's the issue of getting their rope stuck on the way down, and the deadly bowling alley approach/descent gully is no joke either.... I'm with you in having been stumped by that first move on Zoom, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 no wonder it felt sandbagged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 still feels sandbagged!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 MisterE said: speaking of which - wedding day... That's not sandbagged! It is one or two 10 moves at the begininng then .8-9 to the top. Titanic in Squamish, hardest v3 ever!! Quasar at Smith Only if you aren't a crack climber though. Darth Maul at 11worth is at least one graded harder than stated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Saber, sure it's easy but it feels harder than 5.4. Agree...not saying it is super hard or anything, but it was harder than 5.4. Cool route though. I'd say 5.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Any of Beckey's "obvious 4th class descent gulleys" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 mattp said: I've always thought Breakfast of Champions was kind of hard for the .10a rating. I thought the same thing while onsighting it. Linked it with the 2nd pitch of the route below it...climbed off the ledge, placed a piece, made a couple moves, downclimbed back to the ledge, climbed a little higher and placed another piece, went "damn, ain't gettin no easier, better punch it" and then two moves higher it's perfect hands...Ahhhhhh!. Second time I climbed it, knowing that fatty handjams are up there, and it's really a short pitch, it didn't seem like a sandbag at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 willstrickland said: mattp said: I've always thought Breakfast of Champions was kind of hard for the .10a rating. I thought the same thing while onsighting it. Linked it with the 2nd pitch of the route below it...climbed off the ledge, placed a piece, made a couple moves, downclimbed back to the ledge, climbed a little higher and placed another piece, went "damn, ain't gettin no easier, better punch it" and then two moves higher it's perfect hands...Ahhhhhh!. Second time I climbed it, knowing that fatty handjams are up there, and it's really a short pitch, it didn't seem like a sandbag at all. it is not perfect hands anywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 minx said: it is not perfect hands anywhere Huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 willstrickland said: minx said: it is not perfect hands anywhere Huh? ok at least not for me...damn you boys and your big hands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 minx said: willstrickland said: minx said: it is not perfect hands anywhere Huh? ok at least not for me...damn you boys and your big hands Shuddup, you get perfect hands on libra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Crux pitch of Susu is sandbagged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Pine Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 Minx if you got small hands then Breakfast of Champions must be perfect for you right at the bottom (crux) then turn into overhanging OW . No wonder you think it's hard! Zoom: I couldn't pull the first move either. How the hell do you guys do that? (I pulled on the bolt, that made it pretty easy ). And Harpell, you calling Zoom a sport climb?! I guess I missed the bolts on that runout thin crack section . Libra Crack is basically BOC without the extra 40 feet of overhanging handcrack. So if you really think Libra crack is a sandbag then BOC has gotta be on your list too. Beckey Route: I agree with sandbag on the slab move, definitely not 5.5, but perhaps you could just make a running start at it like the kiddies do on the slab at the UW Rock? Lizard Chimney? Anyone think that's a sandbag at 5.8? 5.8 is a pretty weird grade I guess. Check out the first pitch of the Back Road. Seemed hard for 5.7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 What's BOC? Huge hands are NOT an asset on Libra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 21, 2003 Share Posted November 21, 2003 cracked said: What's BOC? Huge hands are NOT an asset on Libra. BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS IS BOC YOUR RIGHT BIG HANDS ARE NOT ASSET, BUT TECHNIQUE IS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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