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About texplorer

  • Birthday 03/02/1976


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  1. Hello all, A long time ago I added DDD to MP.com. I was originally told that the FA did not include bolts but there seems to be some question about this. I know that Dan Lapeska has posted here before and so would be nice to get the story from the him or others on the FA but would welcome any others who know the true story too. I'm only interested in the FA and/or FFA. Bolting and chopping since then can be relegated to the spray.
  2. In the medical profession you see people label "allergy" to every reaction they have to a substance. As most of the posts above indicate the epi should be used when the airway is closing or closed and only provides a short duration. It causes relaxation of the smooth muscle by acting on alpha and beta receptors in the bronchial tree. However, if it is your first bee/wasp sting you may only have a small reaction. Subsequent exposures to the same stings in the future may bring on a greater reaction that can be life threatening. If you have been stung multiple times in the past and never had an anaphylactic reaction (ie couldn't breathe) then your probably fine without the epi pen in your arsenal.
  3. I am barely a .12 climber and got bloodline after a few times on it. I was working dracula when I left but agree that the moves while not as hard are more sustained. I remember when Mark and a few others were retro-trad climbing stuff over there and thought that B-line was pretty doable on gear if you get it dialed.
  4. Also a past due late entry. I guess I have to wait for 4 more years to enter these. I also added a big walls category since quite a few climbs seem to not quite be alpine or cragging. I thought you might enjoy them while your waiting on the Russian judge to give your pic a 6.0 Scenic La Esfinge basecamp - Quebrada Paron - Cordillera Blanca - Peru Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams Cragging Boi-oi-oi-ing - Orange Pillar - Patricia Bowl - Rock Creek - Sierras So Many Options Alpine Crystal Crag - Rock Creek - Sierras Purple and Yellow Big Wall Trial & Terror - Basin Wall - Red Rock - Nevada Big Air and Big Dreams Humor Quebrada Ishinca - Cordillera Blanca - Peru Kickin Ass I would like to thank Brooke Sandahl and Metolius for providing a pro-deal for equipment on the Cordillera Blanca trip. Metolius Master cams are gold. Thanks
  5. And I thought this was going to be thread about sports bras and lycra. . . so disappointing.
  6. I have a good deal of respect for him too but noticed that his new book seems to have a "part 1" and "part 2" as different books at $20 a piece. Wish he could have found a way to put that together. Still, he is probably one of the most influential and visionary climbers of the US.
  7. I am STOKED. Let's go put an bolt ladder up the SE corner. . . .but only after top down inspection and if we can do it over many days.
  8. Way to capture the feel of the place. I also went to the Cordillera Blanca this summer. We climbed La Esphinge and Tocllaraju (also summitting in whiteout).
  9. I have both offset aliens and metolious mastercam offsets. If your going with the metolious I would say go with the master cam offsets. I call em Metolious aliens. The Blue-Yellow and Yellow-orange are the money sizes. Next on the list would be the blue-purple. Having used both I think that Metolious has gone a long way to rivaling and maybe surpassing the alien. I definately think the mastercams will last longer than the triggers on the aliens but I still like the soft alloy used with the aliens. You can't go wrong with either really.
  10. Funny to hear of old bringmedeath on here. I did mescalito with him about 5 years ago. Now he has done quite a bit of sick aid since then but Mescalito was his first bigwall. I remember rapping after fixing to pitch 4 our first day and him saying that was the highest he had been off the deck. If your asking if Monkeyface will prepare you for Mesc I feel you probably are in for quite an experience. Mescalito is pretty sustained at A2-A3. We didn't have to hammer but as stated above we had a double set of offset aliens. A proficient team could probably fix and do the route in 4-5 more days. If your a new wall climber you might want to plan for 3-4 more (your pigs are going to be so fat, mwhahahaha). All that being said I have seen people who have never aided before walk up and solo el cap walls as hard as Mescalito. Who am I to tell you what is possible and what is not. Go for it.
  11. •Made it up the Capitan for the 8th time •A couple of car-to-car trips up the Hulk •Learned to surf (ie get pummeled by by waves) •Got a photo published and a name drop in the new gayer format Alpinist (that mag has to be getting soft) •Discovered the Sierras •Gave up a chance to do FAs in Peru with a honed partner to do another residency, WTF? •Got fatter •Enjoying the single life again •Learned what a Bezoar is.
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