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slaphappy

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About slaphappy

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    old hand
  1. 2012 / 13 Washington Ice Conditions

    FYI_The access to the smear and anything in that vicinity is not ok. The property owners at the end of the road do not want ANYONE crossing their property
  2. Homemade Split Board

    2nd ascent in Ballard has some voiles for about $300 w/everything but skins and binders
  3. Don't know about the Makita but have logged some time w/a Bosch 11536c. Weighs a bit over 6lbs, 36v and got mine for $399 w/2 batteries. (Throw it in your Amazon cart and check regularly, its currently at $499 but does fluctuate.) I get 12-15 3/8 holes in Levy "granite". It's so light you can actually drill a hole above your head not just chest high. They offer a 3ah battery for $200 but I haven't found the need for the extra juice, if there is any question, I just make my partner carry the 2nd battery. I have used/owned many roto hammers and this is by far the lightest and best for the $. You won't be disappointed.
  4. Yikes - major avalanche near Steven's Pass 3 gone

    These guys were as good as good gets. I new them well and feel lucky to have spent as much time in and out of the mountains as I have. Another huge loss to Leavenworth. Seems we have had a real string of misfortune over the last year or so with the passing of Joe Puryear, Dan Zimmerman, Ian Mynatt, Chris Rudolf, Jim Jack, and Johnny Brenan. So sad...
  5. LEAVENWORTH Avalanche Fatality

    I can't even express the sense of loss I'm feeling right now. Dan was the best partner you could ever dream of having on any pursuit. I truly loved the "little guy". We will miss him greatly. The Icicle will never be the same with out you... Here's to you buddy -Ron Cotman
  6. Index is hard

    Best way to climb 5.10 at Index: Drive by and head to Leavenworth for a long weekend. Day one do S Face of Jello Tower, Damnation, Scary Canary, The Bone, and Crack of Doom at Castle Rock. Day two go to Careno crag and do The Regular Route, third pitch of BK, Pocketmeister, Swingn Affair, and Exotic Dancer. Day three go to Pearly Gates and do all ten or so 5.9s and 10-. Realize there are far more quality 5.10 climbs in Leavenworth and go back to Index when you can lead 5.11.
  7. [TR] The Mole - North Face 6/5/2010

    Nice! The right hand crack has been done at least a few times albeit a bit dirtier/harder. The ticks have been terrible this year due to the cooler/wetter spring. I have been bit 4 times and have pulled seemingly hundreds off myself and the pooch since February.
  8. Most importantly, your hard work updating outdated/unsafe hardware is greatly appreciated by all. However I can't help but notice the odd angles and lack of equalization on the three replaced anchors. Would it not be better to either patch the old holes and start from scratch using longer chains (at least on one of the bolts) greatly reducing the force that is nearly doubled when pulling sideways, or reuse only one hole and drill one new one. (using 3 chain links on one and 7 on the other achieves this nicely) Two part epoxy putty works great for filling old or botched holes, comes in a grey granite like color, is available at Lowe's/Home Depot, and is cheap. Bringing both 3/8 and 1/2 in. quicklinks also helps making small adjustments. The aluminum Omega rings although strong will wear out rather quickly, why not just use cheaper burlier steel chain links? Once again your efforts are appreciated it just seems it could be done cleaner and better. Please don't take this as negative feedback just an observation on how to possibly improve on an already great thing.
  9. Nice john! A great looking line. A number of us have been eyeballing that for quite a while. A handful of februarys ago we went in and ski/snowboarded the north facing lines on 7828 in your first pic. That area has a "big" feel to it and the lines are steeper and bigger than they look from a distance, an anomaly for the area. Again, great work this past winter/spring!
  10. anyone know this wall?

    I've been there. None of your guesses are even close...
  11. Nice!!! Last year two members of the elite "Icicle royalty" and myself did the infamous Chiwaukum Traverse although we included a stretch of Icicle Ridge by starting at Jay Saddle and descending into Index Creek from Ida lake. Due to extreme avy hazards we were unable to complete a number of our objectives, much to my displeasure since I was on a splitboard and was motivated by some of the steeper terrain. I did far more "skiing" than I would have liked although the snowboarding I did was fantastic. Killer views, weather, and company made it an awesome trip. *Lowell- I would recommend doing it earlier than later by either including the Icicle Ridge or getting a tow. There are many kind locals that would be glad to offer up a ride, myself included. (seriously, if I cant do it, I could put you in contact with someone that could. There are many local avid skiers/boarders that have sleds) We did it late (may?) and caught the trail, hiking out the last three miles to White Pine. The direct descent from Dead Horse Pass would be a far more rewarding finish and well worth the hassle of arranging a tow or the extra day or two by including Icicle Ridge in your trip.
  12. Snowboard Mountaineering

    Yall are so yester-year. Thankfully the park mentality is infiltrating the bc: modern 2-stroke technology is off the hook, 150+ hp, 163" tracks, the places we can go! and man when DaKine put out that nifty chainsaw pack for mtn bikers- oh the possibilities... all those drops and shots that just didn't have the runouts... poof! Husqavarna has the cure! A handful of 60d's and a mini sledge- endless stunts... a little imagination and lots-o-elbow grease and... The bc is the best park ever! I get sweaty palms just thinkn about it! Splittys are the shit! It takes 1-5 min to switch over, big deal, why the rush? just enough time to enjoy a cheap headbuster. Spark r&ds/burton driver x's sidehill no prob, and ride/sledneck better than plastics. Venture's extensive board line is the answer to Voile's intermediate dinosaurs. Man some of you ski fags sound like idiots. Let me guess- yall are ghey-ass teleskiers, scuffing around avoiding absolutely anything difficult, terrified of actually using the fall-line, in search of the endless field of over exagerated hippy-pow "turns"... Why is it yall think skinning is a competition, something to brag about?
  13. SMC shallow angles for Trade

    OMG that is so fuckin awesome!!!
  14. SMC shallow angles for Trade

    Huh? Didn't you just buy those? When I was sorting thru the lot (I had first dibs) you hovered over my shoulder exclaiming "you're not gonna take all of those are you?" which I would have, had you not been there. It seemed fitting to share the wealth. Chris also asked that we not re-sell them since they were a good deal. You reassured him they were for personal "alpine" use. Now I see you are trying to "trade" (also on Super Topo) to better your take. Technically not reselling but pretty frickin weak IMHO. I should have been a prick and bought them all... Good luck with that...
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