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Everything posted by texplorer

  1. Hello all, A long time ago I added DDD to MP.com. I was originally told that the FA did not include bolts but there seems to be some question about this. I know that Dan Lapeska has posted here before and so would be nice to get the story from the him or others on the FA but would welcome any others who know the true story too. I'm only interested in the FA and/or FFA. Bolting and chopping since then can be relegated to the spray.
  2. Dan's Dreadful Direct

  3. [TR] El Cap- Mescalito 7/13/2004

    Climb: El Cap-Mescalito Date of Climb: 7/13/2004 Trip Report: Over the 4th weekend Bigwaller and I climbed the most popular and classic moderately hard aid route on El Cap. June 27 -Arrive in the Valley Sunday morning. Jake eyes El Cap for the first time. That afternoon we haul loads and begin to fix 4 pitches. On the 4th pitch Jake starts up but I notice him waver and blink as if he is dizzy only 25 feet off the belay. The heat and lack of water have taken its toll on him already so I take the sharp end and fly up as fast as I can trying to beat the darkness. I barely do and reach the anchor just as darkness closes in. Upon rapping down at dusk he tells me that this is as far off the deck as he has ever been. His attitude was still good though and we were both still optimistic. June 28 - Jake's father treats us to a big breakfast at the cafeteria. A few hours later we are jugging our lines. We toss one rope and then commit to the 26 pitch route. With over 8 pitches of C3 and only 4 pitches of C1 or easier the route is sustained and steep. Even the first day I was able to haul our bags by myself despite 14 gallons of water and food for a week. The route went pretty flawless except for a couple of days when I got the "dropsies" Yes, I started to get scared after a few offset nuts magically unclipped themselves, I got my first cam stuck (ever) and then I really f'ed up by dropping a #3 camalot. This made it the costliest trip I have ever done. Luckily, the rest of the route went smoother and we managed to hang onto the rest of our gear. Late on the fifth day on the wall at about pitch 15 I was just one move from a bolt and then the anchor. I was relieved this pitch was almost over as it had entailed lots of hooking and clipping of many manky pieces. Unfortunetely, there were two fixed RURPs both without wires or cordage to clip to. I tried hooking several times and took some nice static falls onto a copperhead. After my face and hand scraped the wall I decided that I was done. I had Jake lower me to the belay and we camped for the night. The next morning I ascended and used our fly-pole to stick clip the bolt just 1.5 feet away while topstepping. A few days later we got to the Bismark ledge. It was quite a sweet outlook. We also found a small tupperware box hanging from the belay with a glass pipe, lighter, and a small vile of an oregano-looking substance. We fixed the bismark pitch which required about 10 feet of laybacking up an OW above a #5 camalot. Normally I would try to thrutch up the thing but by this point I was tired enough and gave into the supposed .10a layback moves. The next morning Jake got a good taste of what el cap can do to you. He must have had alot of fun on a certain pitch because he decided to stay on it for over 5 hours. I hid from the sun under the haulbag while Jake had his mini epic. Luckily we still made it to pitch 23 and a sloping ledge. The next day we topped out and both remarked how weird it was to stand on level ground and be out of the harness. We spent the next 3 days sitting around the valley, avoiding the tool, and searching for booty. Overall, a stellar route!!! Long, sustained but doable. We did the route clean (except for my little stick clip). It was Jake's first time up El Cap and my 4th. We had a blast, what did you do for the 4th? Gear Notes: Double set of hybrid aliens were key to the "cleanliness" of the ascent.
  4. The perils of climbing

    In the medical profession you see people label "allergy" to every reaction they have to a substance. As most of the posts above indicate the epi should be used when the airway is closing or closed and only provides a short duration. It causes relaxation of the smooth muscle by acting on alpha and beta receptors in the bronchial tree. However, if it is your first bee/wasp sting you may only have a small reaction. Subsequent exposures to the same stings in the future may bring on a greater reaction that can be life threatening. If you have been stung multiple times in the past and never had an anaphylactic reaction (ie couldn't breathe) then your probably fine without the epi pen in your arsenal.
  5. Dracula on gear

    I am barely a .12 climber and got bloodline after a few times on it. I was working dracula when I left but agree that the moves while not as hard are more sustained. I remember when Mark and a few others were retro-trad climbing stuff over there and thought that B-line was pretty doable on gear if you get it dialed.
  6. Also a past due late entry. I guess I have to wait for 4 more years to enter these. I also added a big walls category since quite a few climbs seem to not quite be alpine or cragging. I thought you might enjoy them while your waiting on the Russian judge to give your pic a 6.0 Scenic La Esfinge basecamp - Quebrada Paron - Cordillera Blanca - Peru Champagne Wishes & Caviar Dreams Cragging Boi-oi-oi-ing - Orange Pillar - Patricia Bowl - Rock Creek - Sierras So Many Options Alpine Crystal Crag - Rock Creek - Sierras Purple and Yellow Big Wall Trial & Terror - Basin Wall - Red Rock - Nevada Big Air and Big Dreams Humor Quebrada Ishinca - Cordillera Blanca - Peru Kickin Ass I would like to thank Brooke Sandahl and Metolius for providing a pro-deal for equipment on the Cordillera Blanca trip. Metolius Master cams are gold. Thanks
  7. Tent Poles at Smith

    And I thought this was going to be thread about sports bras and lycra. . . so disappointing.
  8. Royal Robbins Book - Fail Falling

    I have a good deal of respect for him too but noticed that his new book seems to have a "part 1" and "part 2" as different books at $20 a piece. Wish he could have found a way to put that together. Still, he is probably one of the most influential and visionary climbers of the US.
  9. FavoriteTR Ever *Non* Voting Thread.

    Where is the Muir hut thread?

    I am STOKED. Let's go put an bolt ladder up the SE corner. . . .but only after top down inspection and if we can do it over many days.
  11. Mt. Whitney Trip Report from 1898

    Really cool, thanks for sharing.
  12. Way to capture the feel of the place. I also went to the Cordillera Blanca this summer. We climbed La Esphinge and Tocllaraju (also summitting in whiteout).
  13. Snafflehound Ledge: myth or legend?

    Its in the obvious gulley of course.
  14. Offset Cam (Met.) sizes?

    I have both offset aliens and metolious mastercam offsets. If your going with the metolious I would say go with the master cam offsets. I call em Metolious aliens. The Blue-Yellow and Yellow-orange are the money sizes. Next on the list would be the blue-purple. Having used both I think that Metolious has gone a long way to rivaling and maybe surpassing the alien. I definately think the mastercams will last longer than the triggers on the aliens but I still like the soft alloy used with the aliens. You can't go wrong with either really.
  15. Mescalito, El Capitan, Yosemite!

    Funny to hear of old bringmedeath on here. I did mescalito with him about 5 years ago. Now he has done quite a bit of sick aid since then but Mescalito was his first bigwall. I remember rapping after fixing to pitch 4 our first day and him saying that was the highest he had been off the deck. If your asking if Monkeyface will prepare you for Mesc I feel you probably are in for quite an experience. Mescalito is pretty sustained at A2-A3. We didn't have to hammer but as stated above we had a double set of offset aliens. A proficient team could probably fix and do the route in 4-5 more days. If your a new wall climber you might want to plan for 3-4 more (your pigs are going to be so fat, mwhahahaha). All that being said I have seen people who have never aided before walk up and solo el cap walls as hard as Mescalito. Who am I to tell you what is possible and what is not. Go for it.
  16. year in review

    •Made it up the Capitan for the 8th time •A couple of car-to-car trips up the Hulk •Learned to surf (ie get pummeled by by waves) •Got a photo published and a name drop in the new gayer format Alpinist (that mag has to be getting soft) •Discovered the Sierras •Gave up a chance to do FAs in Peru with a honed partner to do another residency, WTF? •Got fatter •Enjoying the single life again •Learned what a Bezoar is.
  17. New Smith Guide printed!

    I bought Alan's first guide as I was just getting into climbing. Coming from Texas Smith seemed like heaven and the Watts guide became the definitive guidebook which I still rate all others. I have yet to find a guide that provides interesting commentary and beta on routes without spewing every last detail about the routes. I will probably never peruse a guide as much as I did that one. I hope that the new one is even just as good as the previous guide was. Thanks for the dedication ACW. -KRD
  18. Cheap places to stay in Vegas

    Yea GGK, the options are pretty grim around vegas. I even hear that the overpriced campground is going to go up to $15/night. If your inclined to stay inside there are some cheap hotels in the downtown (north of the strip) area. Another option is crashing in your car in one of the Casino parking lots. I know a guy that stayed all summer in the Redrock casino lot. Lastly you can go out 160 going past black velvet onto Lovell rd and camp but that is quite a ways out from both the city and most of the park.
  19. [TR] Yosemite - El Capitan - Zodiac 10/15/2008

    Nice photos capturing alot of the classic pitches. Brings back some great memories. Probably one of the best el cap routes.
  20. have a good picture of the south face of prusik?

    Don't know what your looking for but you might check out this page too. Mountain Project -Prussik Peak Page
  21. Unknown Wall

    This last weekend I was on the Slesse and couldn't help notice a nice looking large sheer wall directly across the valley to the east of slesse. The wall was SW facing and looked to be clean white granite. I am sure this thing has been explored and was wondering what it is called and what routes are on the thing. Dru? . . . .
  22. Supercrack Leavenworth

    Tried this route a few years back with Rumr and got torched but it felt "doable". Nice job on a classic route. Hope this thing gets more ascents. Moronbros: for your info the "supercrcack" which you speak of I beleive was originally named Supercrack Luxuryliner of the Desert
  23. This is how it starts bradley. You head outside, head to smith every weekend, your wife starts getting mad at your "addiction", you discover trad, buy 2 grand worth of gear, you head to yosemite, buy 2 grand of more gear, you wife threatens to leave . . .you think about how much more climbing you could do, you climb your first bigwall, you wife leaves you, you redpoint your first 5.12, you quit your job to roadtrip, you start doing FA's, . . . . . . you can call yourself a climber. Yep, have fun.
  24. best of cc.com [TR] Yosemite Valley - Steck Salathe 7/26/2008

    Nice TR, brings back some great memories. This is my favorite route . . ever. It is never so tough of climbing but it just keeps coming at you. I brought a little more water than you I think and had a much less miserable experience but hey anybody that gets up this route in my book is badaaasss. I had also been climbing in the valley for about a month prior to my ascent. Some things I love about this route: In the falcon guide it says rappel or 4th class downclimb onto the main buttress. I remember thinking I have never seen overhanging 4th class before. Allen steck said that he brought alot of salty foods up on the FA and by the second day couldn't eat any of them due to having virtually no water (I think they brought like a 1/2 liter a day per person or something insane like that). The old veteran, Salathe, brought a tin of prunes. Steck said that the prunes were moist and he could actually get them down. A great story! This route is probably one of the highlights of my climbing career. Just one of those routes that captures everything: history, position, great moves, long, varied climbing, and of course an uber-classic. Nice job Will