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skimbleshanks

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About skimbleshanks

  • Rank
    stranger
  • Birthday 08/16/1987

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  • Occupation
    aerospace casting repair welder
  • Location
    Dallas OR

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  1. Fryehard

    Where is this and you? More info might get better answers?
  2. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    Thanks for all the replies. I think I have it figured out. Switch one of my trekking poles to a black diamond whippet for easier or lower angle stuff and a set of tools once the real climbing begins. I know the early days used very simple equipment. Those climbers were probably way more badass than I'll ever be. Grivel North Machines or Petzl Quarks and Cassin X light looks like what im looking for. The carbon shafts of the Grivel really do appeal to me but another $80+ might make the decision for me. Looking for deals now. But would love to try before I plunk down the cash. Anybody want to let me swing their tools once some ice comes in?
  3. Looking to get onto some harder routes in the next few winters. I have a few Cascade volcano summits up the standard routes. Leutholds coulior, and Devils kitchen head wall are the primary targets of the next 2 winters. I currently own and have used a Grivel G1 ice axe for all my summits. I have taken a Grivel Alp monster with me on 2 Mt. Hood trips up the pearly gates. Looking to get a moderate set of tools. One adz and one hammer. Average price would be nice, still usable on easier glacier travel. Im tall at 6'4" so longer might help there. The Petzl Quark looks nice but I really want to look at the field.
  4. Trip: Mt. Washington - North Ridge Trip Date: 09/01/2018 Trip Report: Climbed Mt. Washington. Real fun. Straightforward approach up the north ridge to the notch before the summit block. 7 people ahead of us. They were kind and offered to belay my climbing partner and I from the top. The one move about 20 or so feet up the first pitch was kinda tricky. An undercling some reaching around and trust in the belayer above brought me over the hump. Real fun but exposed scrambling to the summit. I wouldn't blame anybody for staying roped up for the remaining pitches. Best options for protection would be slinging rock horns for the most part. OR small nuts or hexs smaller than an inch. Lots of um... not solid rock up there so not sure how much any gear would actually hold a fall in the cracks. Maybe knife blade pitons too. The 3 rappels down were fun and lots of nice people sharing ropes to get everybody up and down in good time. Back to the notch we chose to descend the scree field. It was ok. I was wearing shin height boots. Short boots or aproach shoes would have been filled with rock in a second though. The hike to the car was fast but we were tired and conversation wasnt as excited as it had been in the morning. Real fun climb. Way better than all the books say. Thanks Paul for answering my partner request here. Gear Notes: Long slings. Real long. Approach Notes: Follow the trail turn left at the cairn and follow that trail.
  5. Mt. Thielsen september 1st

    Looking for somebody that wants to climb Mt. Thielsen. Im leaving portland after work friday night at 11pm to get there early. I have a rope, some cams, hexs, and runners. Never been to Theilsen before so a bonus if you have. 503 nine one seven 98 seven zero
  6. Salem area climbers for any time

    Im 30, I live in the Salem area. I have a job and family so plenty of planning is a must but I'm looking to get out climbing more. I have 3 summits of Mt. Hood, 1 each of South Sister, Mt. Adams, and 2 weeks ago Mt. Rainier. I am looking to start branching out to more rock and eventually get onto alpine rock routes in the North Cascades as well as altitude goals such as Aconcagua. Really just want to climb stuff. Lets get together have a beer and see if we can line up some goals.
  7. Mt. Thielsen gear

    Could you point me or your friend in each others direction? I have been doing research and the best i can come up with is "a handful of chocks".
  8. Mt. Thielsen gear

    In A few weeks or month or so I plan on taking my brother and a friend up Mt. Thielsen. None of us have been there and I am the most experienced climber among us. A few summits of Hood, Adams once and just summited Rainier about a week ago. From pictures I feel like I could climb it without A rope or protection. However, how I feel from a few pictures combined with the even more novice partners im going with leads me to want to bring my rope and a few pieces of gear. I am having trouble finding a good gear list. Specifically nut and hex sizes that would be appropriate?This is a climb different than I have done before and I dont really have a "rack". Thus I'm going to buy some gear and have a different friend run me through some placement techniques. I plan on running through some belay and rappell stuff with my brother and friend prior to this trip. Im looking to have a fun time, push ourselves a little bit, but most importantly get back home alive and in one piece. Thank you for your time.
  9. What time of the year for Mt Adams?

    I climbed Adams from the standard route in late September of 2015. LOTS or rock on the approach to the lunch counter and a few bands of rock needed crossing near the top of Pikers Peak. My boots got a hammering. I wont be going back that late in the year again. Fun climb but more snow would have been more fun I think. June-August would be my best bet.
  10. Mt. Thielsen gear requirements

    In A few weeks or month or so I plan on taking my brother and a friend up Mt. Thielsen. None of us have been there and I am the most experienced climber among us. A few summits of Hood, Adams once and just summited Rainier about a week ago. From pictures I feel like I could climb it without A rope or protection. However, how I feel from a few pictures combined with the even more novice partners im going with leads me to want to bring my rope and a few pieces of gear. I am having trouble finding a good gear list. Specifically nut and hex sizes that would be appropriate?This is a climb different than I have done before and I dont really have a "rack". Thus I'm going to buy some gear and have a different friend run me through some placement techniques. I plan on running through some belay and rappell stuff with my brother and friend prior to this trip. Im looking to have a fun time, push ourselves a little bit, but most importantly get back home alive and in one piece. Thank you for your time.
  11. Hood accident lawsuit

    People die on Hood EVERY year. People die climbing around the world every year. Every year a couple top level climbers, ski mountaineers, back country bad ass' die. We all know it's a possibility to make a mistake or have luck run out. We weigh the risk and reward and venture out, or not, knowing that the cost of failure can be tragically high. There is zero reason for this lawsuit but grief turned to greed.
  12. Summer partner wanted

    Im Logan, im 30 in the Salem area, have a wife and new baby at home so I would need a couple weeks notice for any adventures, but... I just summited Rainier on the 20th of this month and the stoke is back. Im looking to start hitting some harder or more technical climbs. Mt. Jefferson looks like a fun pile of choss on top and the north east buttress of Goode Mountain really has my interest, but im open to climbing just about anything im capable of. Mt. Hood ×3 South Sister ×1 Mt. Adams ×1 Rainier ×1
  13. Close to Portlandish 5-23 weekend

    Looking to climb something the weekend of the 23rd. All of its open and I had Adams in mind or Leutholds couloir on hood. I am in decent shape and hike quite a bit. 27, male, enthusiastic.I am however fairly new to the alpine world with one climb of the south side of Mt.Hood under my belt. Looking for other climbers that know a bit more than I do and wouldn't mind a green climber tagging along. Sboot me a pm if interested, thanks. Logan.
  14. 20 year dream in the making

    Well Saturday 5-9-15 I made it to the summit. I left work at about 11:00pm in Clackamas. Made it to the mountain and was on my way by 1:00am. Was only going to try to make it to the hogsback as I had been doing training hikes on the mountain with the only intention of getting higher each time without getting to a dangerous place as I was going solo. I felt surprisingly good at the hogsback, the weather was wonderful so I just went for it. The old chute was clogged with people going both ways, so I decided to try the pearly gates. There was only one group of 2 people at the bergschrund as I started up. I kept that distance till they disappeared. There were fairly solid steps stomped in and the going was good except for a spot about 10-15 feet in length that was of a harder ice and required swinging my ice axe to get good purchase between steps. At 9:58 am I sat on the summit and took a breather for a few minutes. Sent a text and photo to my wife who was both happy for me making it and kinda pissed that I was solo. Understandable that it isn't the safest thing in the world but I never felt out of my comfort zone as far as calculated risk goes. Did lots of glissades on the way down the more safe and controlable slopes and was back at my car just before noon. Drank a Monster and ate what was quickly turning into a borderline turned sandwich in the sun inside my car and started the drive home to Salem. look forward to many more summits and more importantly cold beer and a soft bed at home.
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