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Initial release of the new Cascade Ice Climbing guidebook!!! https://cascade-ice.com/. A few weeks ago, I shared a list of obscure alpine ice climbs in Washington. It was met with a surprising amount of enthusiasm. @DPS, who has climbed many of these routes himself, reached out to me about turning the list into a true online guidebook. So I went out (more like hunkered in my room) and built us a website. It includes detailed route descriptions, caltopo approach maps, and tons of great photos. Currently, we only have 8 awesome routes up, mostly just routes I've done, but we hope to have 20+ routes by next winter! We're still early on in the development of this site, so I welcome feedback / advice. If you have info/pictures for a specific route you'd like to see here, we might be able to work together to get it up! To follow along with updates, new routes added, follow our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Cascade-Ice-106832897688029/. And for the computer nerds out there, yes, our code is open source and you can check it out here: https://github.com/Washington-Ice-Climbing/ice-conditions-map.
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With this weeks cold temps down low I figured it could be worthwhile to get this years forum started! Also if anyone has any pictures or information about the current status of routes, put it here! Happy exploring
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Use this thread to post ice conditions, photos, and beta for Winter 2021-2022. Additional resource/online guidebook for the infomaniacs- https://cascade-ice.com/ Keep it simple and informative, be nice and stay safe out there!!
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Lowa Civetta plastic boots size 15. Very good condition. Great for snow climbs like Mt Rainier and ice climbing and snow shoeing. Very warm and comfortable. I wear size 15 shoes and these allow for extra insoles or socks. They could fit size 16 too without extra socks. I got them to go to Alaska and didn’t make it. I used them to climb Rainier and ice climb a few times in Montana. Text Scott in Olympia 360 556 5922 $95. Got big feet? I will make you a deal.
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Gear For Sale! Located in Bellingham, everything listed is clean, bright, and alright! SCARPA Freney XT Boots (43M) Great boot for Ice/Mixed/Alpine. Very precise, very good condition, plenty of miles left on them. 4.3lbs $100 $60!! ($20 S&H) Patagonia Mixmaster Pants (32M) Comfy pants for Alpine pursuits. Good condition, home-made stirrups, no crampon tears, but small repair on outside of lower right leg. $100 $50!! ($10 S&H) Black Diamond Storm Headlamp Mint condition. $30 $20 (Free Shipping!!)
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I've benefited from others posting their TRs and Gear reviews for many years. I used to post TR's on supertopo way back when it was a) alive and b) I lived in California. I mostly ice climb in the winters and trad/alpine the rest of the time and just moved back to the Seattle area after being away for 10 years. Here's the new website that I'll be backfilling as I have time, but for starters I have my TR's from the last two weekends for N Ridge of Baker and Kautz Rainier typed up: https://www.natexploring.com/tripreports
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for sale Ice Screws: Petzl Laser BD Express , New, Never Used
IPY7702 posted a topic in The Yard Sale
I have the following ice screws for sale. All are completely new, never been used. I bought this rack and then hurt my neck so they never touched the ice or have made it out of my closet. Petzl Laser: (5) blue, 17cm: (2) yellow, 13cm (1) Green, 21 BD Express: (1) 10cm (3) 13cm (2) 16cm (1) 19cm Total of 14 screws and 2 brand new BD 2 BD cases as well New this stuff totals $1175 I will take $975/best offer for all of it plus shipping. Would like to keep it all together to make this easier. Located in Bend, Oregon Thanks and best!- 1 reply
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Hey, I started making these tools for indoor ice climbing / drytooling training. You can climb with them on your home wall or climbing gym on regular holds without damaging them. Check them out at https://drytoolz.com if interested. Patrik
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for sale SOLD -Cheap ice boots! LS Batura Evo 45.5, LS Spantik 46
mhux posted a topic in The Yard Sale
Hey there! Selling a few pairs of boots that are taking up space. I wear a 45.5 or 11.5 street shoe (in Sportiva) for reference. Pickup in Portland preferred, but I am open to driving if you are in the PNW. Otherwise PM me for shipping. Happy to send more photos or field questions about the boots! First up, La Sportiva Batura Evos, in 45.5. $175. Boots are in good condition, normal scuffs and two crampon holes in the left ones gaiter (just through the neoprene like material, not through the actual boot). I really like these boots but they don't fit my wide feet and most days end in foot pain. They climb well and have been warm up to 6000m in the tropics (not in AK!). Next up, La Sportiva Spantiks, in 46. $275 OBO. I bought these for a trip to Peru, they were great if not a little overkill. They fit my wide feet better, but I won't be going on an expedition for a while. The rands could use a spot or two of shoe goo, but otherwise they are in great shape. -
So for this winter, as @Doug_Hutchinson alluded to, I present to the ice community a new observations page: https://cascade-ice.com/observations. I think that we could record observations of ice in the field in a more organized, easy to search manner, with location pins. Over many years, I believe that this format could have a lot of value because of its clarity and searchability. My dream would be to display historical weather patterns that led to certain observations and awesome insight like that. Facebook posts get buried after a few days. CC Threads are great, but can be tricky to search through and it can be challenging to describe exact locations. This isn't meant to replace CC or anything, more augment it. It's an experiment. I welcome feedback. This observations page I will maintain with submissions from the community. To make development easier, there's no form for user submissions, just send us an email at cascadeiceguide@gmail.com and I'll get it up as quickly as possible. There are instructions on the page of what information to include in submissions. Think cold thoughts and hopefully it'll be a good season!
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With some time on my hands with the quarantine and all, I decided to compile some research. Here's a list of "forgotten" Cascade alpine testpieces (ice focused) or FACTs. Feel free to add some others I left out! Who's gonna be the first to tick the entire list? I apologize for all the weird formatting. I just copied this post from my blog https://climberkyle.com/2020/03/22/forgotten-cascade-alpine-ice-routes/. I90 I90 climbs offer the best access and easiest conditions to predict. There are undoubtedly many more climbs to be discovered in this area with easy access, generally good rock, and surprisingly rugged little mountains. Mt. Kent, North Face (multiple variations): the greatest north face in the Snoqualmie region with many long 1000 ft lines. Bonus: you can see conditions from I90 near exit 42 while driving west! This has been super high on my list to explore. Snoqualmie Mt, North Face (multiple variations): an abundance of mixed ice lines like the classic New York Gully and the lesser known Pineapple Express and Blue Moon. Abiel Peak, North Face (multiple variations): the “Ben Nevis” of the PNW has many shorter alpine ice and mixed lines. Bryant Peak, Hot Tubbs: Maybe this route hasn’t been around long enough since Jacob and I published it, but it reportedly hasn’t seen much action, so I think it’ll be forgotten soon enough… Summit Chief Mountain, North Face: Colin Haley said this line had “more ice climbing than any other Cascade ice climb” he had ever done at the time. Big compliment. The North Face is much like Dragontail, just fatter. Peak 3964, False Idol: An incredible 10 pitch ice route off the Middle Fork Snoqualmie that needs very cold temps to form. I believe this is just scratching the surface of the ice potential in the Middle Fork. US2 US2 offers some hotspots like the Stuart Range, with its steep granite peaks, and a sprinkling of other incredible routes in the Lake Wenatchee area. Weather is generally colder and drier on the east side, which is good for ice. Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous: Cutting edge Colin Haley mixed route deep in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Buck Mountain, Buckshot: Another bold line in a wilderness setting. One of the great underrated north faces in Washington. Mt. Index, North Face: Steepest peak in Washington, visible from the highway. Always an involved matter for a sub-6000 ft peak. Another huge route is Murphy's Law. Dragontail Peak, NE Couloir: This route feels much more full on than Triple Couloirs next door, and seems to be difficult to get in proper (fall) conditions. Colchuck Peak, NE Buttress Couloir: Often overlooked with Triple Couloirs and the North Buttress Couloir next door. Ends with a cornice-tunnel! Argonaut Peak, NE Couloir: Also a rock/snow route in early summer, this can be a fantastic mixed/ice route in late fall. Mt. Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier: a technically easy but deceptively committing and full-on climb in a wild setting. Argonaut Peak, Chad Kellog Memorial Route: Challenging new age mixed route in the heart of the Stuart Range. Mt. Stuart, Lara Kellog Memorial Route: Climbs the incredible NE Face of Stuart above the Ice Cliff Glacier. Looks directly across to the Chad Kellog Memorial Route. Mt. Stuart, Stuart Glacier Couloir: A classic route where the crux is arguable climbing the west ridge in mixed winter conditions. Nason Ridge, Alpine Dropout: A fantastic looking ice route that sits just above Lake Wenatchee. Mountain Loop Close to Seattle but tragically overlooked, the peaks of the Mountain Loop are as rugged as anywhere in the North Cascades but with surprisingly decent winter access. The myriad of big climbs in this little region speaks volume to the incredible terrain. Big Four Mt, North Face (multiple variations): multiple routes, including the famous Spindrift Couloir. This is a mighty north face, and routes often take multiple days. Hall Peak, North Face: little brother to Big Four supposedly has some ice routes. Three Fingers, NE Face: This is a big route on a surprisingly big mountain. I believe there’s much more potential on the east side of Three Fingers. Whitechuck Mt, E Face Couloir: A very aesthetic couloir ice/mixed route. Access can be challenging unless it is a very low snow year. Whitehorse Mt, E Couloir: This steep route splits the Squire Creek Headwall for a fantastic line. I think it might even be visible from Darrington?! Sperry Peak, E Face Gully: Another beautiful, long, moderate ice/mixed route that likely varies in technicality from fall to spring. Sloan Peak, Full Moon Fever: This route climbs the weakness on the NW Face of Sloan. Having been at the base, I can say there is HUGE potential all over the place near the route. Sloan Peak, Superalpine: I certainly hope this climb isn’t forgotten, as Porter and I believe it is truly the best moderate alpine ice route we have climbed in the Cascades (better than Cosley Houston or the NW Couloir of Eldorado), but I know how things go around here… Lake 22 Headwall: who would think that one of the greatest alpine walls in the Cascades was just a short hour drive and hike from Seattle? There are so many unclimbed 2000 ft lines up this face, and you can get conditions updates by searching Instagram! Highway 20 Highway 20 undoubtedly has many huge ice lines, but difficult winter access has limited exploration. During lower snow years, the Cascade River Road could be a great area for exploration and development. Eldorado Peak, NW Ice Couloir: This route was sort of “remembered” in Fall 2019 when probably 20 parties climbed it (me included), but it’s a fantastic easier route, so I’ll leave it here. Colonial Peak, North Face (multiple routes): The mega line Watusi Rodeo offers 4000 ft of front point terrain and is “easily” accessible all winter. First Date is another attractive route. Pyramid Peak, NE Face (multiple routes): Home to some challenging mixed/ice routes on a wonderfully aesthetic peak. Graybeard, North Face: Everyone seems to report this deceptively big route deepened their sense of mortality. Davis Peak, No Milkshakes: the north face of Davis Peak is supposedly the steepest vertical mile drop in Washington. Silver Star, West Face Couloir: Originally planned as a ski descent, it actually turned out to be a huge ice climb! Visible from the highway, but you probably need a sled to get up there. Cutthroat Peak, Cauthorn Wilson: Gaining popularity lately, can be climbed right before the highway closes or after it opens. Early Winters Couloir: This one is sort of a classic and can be climbed in both fall and spring. Highway 542 The areas around Baker and Shuksan are generally well explored, but still offer great adventure. The Black Buttes are one of the centerpieces for hard alpine ice climbing. Lincoln Peak, Wilkes-Booth: A huge, challenging route on one of the hardest peaks in Washington. Assassin Spire, NW Face: Considered by many to be the toughest summit in Washington, this was also the first peak where the first ascent was made in winter. Colfax Peak, Ford’s Theater: The “forgotten” next door neighbor of the ultra classic Cosley Houston. Mt. Rainier / Tatoosh This area is dominated by the mountain, but I’m guessing the Tattosh have good stuff and certainly easy access. Rainier, Mowich Face: A long moderate route on the “quiet” (NW) side of the big hunk-a-hunk. Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge: A steeper, more sustained route than its next door neighbor, the world-renowned Liberty Ridge. Mt. Hood I don’t know much about Hood, but I’m sure there are some great routes that are infrequently climbed, so I’ll take suggestions here!
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Hello! The season has come where the rock is wet, skis are worthless, and ice has yet to grow, if it ever does. Behold, the best collection of dry tooling in the Pacific Northwest! Mik Metzler leading Chewbaccerotica D7 Over the past 10 months we have trundled, scrubbed, and fully bolted 25 routes from D4-D8. We are also working on an advanced crag holding 8 or so routes from D8-D12. These routes are nothing like the slab, mud, and road cuts you have tried. Tom Beirne on a repeat ascent of Piña Coladas With Palpatine D7 This is the beginning of bringing the PNW into the future, and if you haven’t been here yet you are in for a treat. All routes are accessible to TR access with bolted stainless anchors with stainless wire gates. We expect that some may not be able to complete routes, so you can TR through these wire gates. We want you to try anything without concern for having to leave your gear behind as popularity and skill for the sport grows. They are your anchors! All of the thousands of dollars of hardware was generously donated through hundreds of donations from the community. When the anchor biners need replacing, we will all be overjoyed to replace them. Jen climbing during the second Ladypolooza women’s event Currently as the season is picking up, there are about 2-3 groups out at Wayne’s World/Darkside every weekend, and a few groups during the week and development continues. We monitor and fix issues usually in a few days. 7 routes on the main wall have had new dry-static ropes installed (generously donated!) for fast access to route anchors. Joanne enjoys the new extension of Party Time! Excellent! D6 If you have questions or concerns, or looking for a partner you may contact me directly. We also have a community FB page SeattleMixed Climbing to see FA’s, condition reports, and developing updates and new routes are available. Kyle Willis https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118307806/dark-side https://www.mountainproject.com/area/118307059/waynes-world Tom Beirne during development (and sent!) of Boaty McBoatface D9-10 IMG_9652.MOV
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Footwear is the most important of gear, no question. I've taken some time to think about all kinds of different footwear in the Cascades, from trail running to ice climbing and skiing. Here are my thoughts and strategies. I welcome diverse opinions! https://climberkyle.com/2020/09/15/footwear-in-the-cascades/
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Trip: Mt. Rainier - Kautz Route Trip Date: 07/25/2020 Trip Report: Bare Bones Cross-posting this from where I keep my trip reports, so if format is wonky below it's cause I'm lazy to reupload photos/format: https://www.natexploring.com/tripreports/kautz-route-mt-rainier Route: AI2-3 Grade II-III; Ice, Alpine, 9000 ft* Ascent via the Kautz Route. Carry over and descent via the DC. *According to Mountain Project/Summit Post Length: Two days with an overnight at Camp Hazard at 11,200’ Dates: July 24-25th, 2020 Climbing Gear: Here’s my regular PSA that just because someone on the internet used a certain rack (or lack thereof) does not mean it’s the right rack for you. Air Tech Light Crampons (yes, they’re aluminum and light. Aluminum is known for bouncing off hard ice, so either be very comfortable reusing axe pick holes for feet or bring something steel) Grivel Ghost Evo Axe with trigger (great to have one of these for the approach since it’s also aluminum & therefore light/a good plunge-stepping and self-arresting tool, but I was glad I brought the tech machine as a second ‘real’ tool) Carbon Tech Machine 4x screws ranging from 13-17cm 5 draws; 2x double-lengths 60m Beal Opera 8.5mm dry-treated rope 1 picket (not used, but I’m told real Cascades climbers always bring one 🤷♀️) The Details Deb and I left the parking lot around 9:30am ish. Who doesn’t like to start up a route in a complete ping-pong ball whiteout? The first 4500’ vertical feet looked like this. It felt like we were climbing a never-ending snow slope with surprise crevasses that would sneak up on us (not hard since we could barely see 10 feet in front of us). Being able to read a topo map was essential for navigation and we got to the base of The Fan no issues. There are two main approaches, we crossed the Nisqually Glacier on a flat traverse at 6,300 feet to the base of a large gully called The Fan. It wasn’t really ‘in’ per say, and there was a lot of rockfall everywhere, so we moved fast and up this gully to reach the bench at 7,400’. I think other parties have been taking the Wilson Glacier approach because I saw no bootpack at all the whole way (only some goat tracks), even in very narrow snow constrictions. Eventually we broke out of the cloud soup to blue skies and a view of Rainier. No more ping-ponging through clouds. That’s cause to celebrate We slogged pretty uneventfully up to our camp at 11,200’ and were very lucky to have running water up there, meaning that I was carrying a lot of extra fuel. Better safe than sorry. We left the parking lot ~9:30 am-ish and were up at camp before 5pm. For the whiteout navigation in the morning, and us taking it slow, it was a good pace. Drinking a 30cal packet of miso soup and standing on clouds with views of Mt. Adams Altitude and I don’t mix very well. Above 11k, my appetite disappears entirely. I had a packet of miso and 15cal of electrolytes mixed with hot water for dinner and that was all I could stomach for the evening. Not great if you’re planning to go up and over a giant mountain the next morning. You know what time is? 7:30pm, also known as alpine bedtime. Using my rope as a pillow and my stuffed puffy as a cuddle toy 7 hours later the alarm woke us up at 4am. Sleep did miracles for me. I woke up fresh, having actually slept (which never usually happens for me at altitude), and interested in some food. So I made the cup-o-noodle that was supposed to be half of my dinner the night before. After ramen (which would prove to be the only food I ate for pretty much the rest of the day not counting 1 clifshot blok and 6 dates), we packed up our tent, sleeping bags, pads, stove, fuel, and everything else. We were coming down the other side of Rainier via a different route, so no chance at leaving our gear behind to grab it later. At 5:30am we set off and rapped down the rock step. We didn’t really need headlamps at this point. I love non-super-alpine starts. The sleep definitely helped me feel fresh for the technical ice pitches. Soloing the bottom ice steps that aren’t really ice steps and more frozen giant waves. Super fun ‘ice scrambling’. Rainier’s shadow at dawn with St. Helens off to the left No pics of the actual ice climbing section above the lower half since I was focused on climbing with my aluminum crampons + 1 aluminum tool/tech machine combo and the 35lb pack on my back, and my partner was focused on not getting pelted with ice and was being a vigilant belayer. I linked together all the ice until it was walkable with no tools. I think it was about 90m of climbing since we simul-ed the first 30m. Placed 2 screws along the way and felt fine with that since the ice was super mellow (albeit a bit dinner-platey) Above the ice. Now a long 2000’ snow slog to get up and over. Crevasses that could swallow a semi-truck. These behemoths we had to traverse many hundreds of feet to find a snowbridge crossing Up and over and down the DC route, which is a popular ascent and was marked with wands and had a very nice bootpack (the first of our trip). We cruised down, excited to drop some altitude and have the increased hydrostatic pressure get more oxygen into our bloodstreams. Seracs on the DC descent route Back at the parking lot with enough food and fuel to have lasted us another 2 or 3 days on the mountain (no, really. I had two giant sandwiches, 8 bars, 1 cup-o-noodle and a full ziplock of granola left over). But altitude made everything unappealing until we got back to the car. We ran into Porter McMichael (a guide on Rainier for IMG ) on our way down at Muir and he suggested we catch up over pizza and burgers. YES. No better way to end two days in the mountains. We had great weather on day 2, hardly any wind and the crevasse navigation was relatively simple. It was definitely a long walk to get on some ice, but the camping views and being the only ones on-route were worth it. Did I mention that this was Deb’s FIRST CAMPING TRIP EVER?! Aren’t you glad you read till the bottom of this trip report to find out? Deb is a fantastic car2car partner and is wicked fast, competent and also excited about ice climbing. But this was literally her first time sleeping in a tent outside. Ever. Or carrying a heavy pack with more than a day’s worth of anything. I’m not joking. She was a total champ and only asked me once how to inflate/deflate a sleeping pad or stuff a sleeping bag. If you get the chance to climb with Deb, she’s great, although you’ll probably have better luck getting her on a day c2c trip than anything overnight. I don’t think this trip convinced her that overnighting is for her Gear Notes: Air Tech Light Crampons, Grivel Ghost Evo Axe with trigger, Carbon Tech Machine, 4x screws ranging from 13-17cm; 5 draws; 2x double-lengths; 60m Beal Opera 8.5mm dry-treated rope Approach Notes: The Fan
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La Sportiva Nepal ice climbing boots size 43 These are not the evo's They are lightly used and pretty close to like new condition - 3 years old - I have climbed ~20 pitches of ice in them. I bought them before I realized AT Ski boots were what I needed in the PNW so they haven't see much use. $280 OBO - Looking at comparable boots on ebay this seems like a fair price. I will upload photos when I am back home tonight.
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Hi all! My name is Zach and I just moved to the area, it's about the worst time of year for the types of climbs I wanna do but I'd like to make plans with somebody to do some winter-accessible stuff including but not limited to some of the tags on this post, and stuff in the spring and summer. Everything from cragging to alpine stuff but preferably the latter. My experience includes: AAI's AMTL1 class (South Early Winter Spire, Baker, Silver Star), trad following and leading at Devil's Lake in Wisconsin, easy glaciated peaks in Peru, ice climbing in Michigan, and several years of sport climbing. I have most of my own gear including a standard rack, but lack the correct ropes and snow/ice protection. I've been out of the game for a bit because of two hip surgeries earlier this year so I'll need to brush up on some stuff before hitting it too hard, but I'd definitely like to get active asap if anybody is interested. Shoot me a text at 616-443-8851, thanks!
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Barely used BD Cobras, older style with leashes so you can hang when you have that strange realization of what you are really doing and how out of shape you let yourself become. Both for $250 near Leavenworth, $300 shipped to lower 48.
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This is free. Just come get it in Ballard. It's currently in 3 pieces, the 4x8 piece of 3/4" plywood and the 2 supports. There is a black rubber mat that fits the bottom as well. If you want it, you gotta take all the pieces. I cannot transport it for you. I had built this for pull-ups and to eventually add rock and ice climbing holds etc on it. It's solid enough to be the base of a much higher extension, which was my original plan. It won't fit in my current apt so need to get rid of it.
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Use this thread to post ice conditions, photos, and beta for Winter 2018-2019.
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Petzl Nomic's for sale: 375.00 for pair. These tools are in excellent conditions with low miles. They are wrapped with Super 88 tape to make gripping easier along the shafts and to insulate your hands. (Got the tip from the Cold Thistle blog.). The tape really adds to the tools performance. The tools come equipped with hammer and adz. Please see photos for details. Payment either by cash or PayPal. If interested send me a note. Thanks, Paul
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sold! Brand new never used Black Diamond Viper ice tools $330
Grgirrgang posted a topic in The Yard Sale
Brand new never been used. Never even strapped to a pack Black Diamond Viper ice tools. $330 for the set. Feel free to text for any additional questions 978 857 3526. -
Went up this weekend 11/3 to check out the drips on the Eliot glacier. A few of the climbs are kind of in. The climbable ones are super wet. The north gully also looks like it's pretty close to being in. The two routes I got on The north face. 11/3
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Worn ONCE in Montana and the descent was muddy, boots have been cleaned like new and in box. I bought the size too big, I know, idiot! Boots run big. Thanks for looking!
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I have the following 3 items for sale (REDUCED PRICES!) Scarpa Phantom 8000 (2015 Model) High Altitude Boots Size 45 - Used but in good condition. Superfeet Included - Great boots for Denali! Price = 369. Scarpa Phantom Tech (2018) Technical Climbing Boots Size 44 - Used twice - nearly brand new! Price = 410. Outdoor Research Floodlight Down Jacket Size XL. Used in but in nice condition. Price = 150. Shipping is 18 bucks for each pair of boots, 10 dollars for the OR Jacket. Venmo or CashApp for payment. If you are interested text me at 406-Five Nine Nine -8743 or respond to me through this forum. -Seth
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