genepires

most popular trails are not crowded at 5am. you may see some people on the way down but that is fun.

Maybe Dave Page could answer that question. So the uppers are still waterproof? Seems like that is the first to go. I think my boots just let too much water in with age.

if the uppers are in good shape and fit your foot well, that would make it worth getting a resole instead of buying a new boot. that boot is fully formed to your feet. now wether it is worth resoling because you don't use it much any more, that is a personal question.

maybe the "dropping of the axe" was on purpose? whatever it takes, short of a hand grenade, to make a quiet day in the mountains?

nice TR. thanks for doing that. too bad about the crowds. sometime in the 90's, seems like the weather was usually worse. we sat out a 3 day storm in the hut and watched everyone leave. when the storm left, we had the park to ourselves for 3 days till the climbers eventually came back. that was a golden trip. we had the NE buttress to ourselves but did have to manage with some ice/snow in cracks. I could be wrong but it seems like the weather is pretty good all july and august. climate change.

I can't remember which route but I remember a trip report years ago of a couple of guys trail running some long traverse, maybe the ptarmigan? they did not have a rope. hopefully someone can remember that trip. looked stunning.

There some traverse that goes by colonial and over somewhere.

Never did it or even been to the range, but I heard that the bailey traverse in the Olympics is great. I doubt that it would be glaciated at all.

Go in an give it a go. if the weather if foul, then you will have built up 10 character points. pin point forecast for shuksan http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.59799955127426&lat=48.83368332443618#.WXJDRXo1Z0c hourly forecast for same http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=48.8337&lon=-121.598&unit=0&lg=english&FcstType=graphical looks like the worst of it is fri night, with rain accumulation of .02" in sat afternoon. with 70% cloud cover. betting it will be OK but you could always make the call after winnie's slide where navigating in cloudy conditions may be an issue.

I love the fisher chimneys and suprised it did not make the nelson select guides. maybe better that way. so cool though with the variety of terrain and skills needed. Just when one skill set used for a while, it turn to another before getting anoying. 4th class rock to steep snow to glacier travel to interesting glacier travel back to mellow glacier and then to more 4th class rock. the only thing lacking is sport climbing and aiding.

my thought was that if they allow unroped teams and skiers going down, they should allow soloists without the special permit. I imagine it would be become a total shit show up there though with every denim pants wearing, coloradan 14-er, trying to run up the mountain solo.

the usual spot for a clog is at the small jet orifice, that Dru was mentioning clearing with a small wire tool. I thought that all the new MSR stoves came with a shaker needle built in. shake the stove up and down to clear out any crap. try the operators manual. sometimes the metal wire in the hose between bottle and stove get a bunch of gunk on it. you can take that out and scrape it clean. for the life of me, I can't remember how to take it out. it was easy last time i did it though. never heard of a pump getting clogged. the clog will not disappear on its own. will only get worse. seems like everyone is going with canisters nowadays.

I knew about fact that if you were with another but not roped, you were ok in NPS eyes. My question is why is OK to be unroped in a team but not unroped solo? I suspect that they left this unroped teams as an option for their climbing rangers operations.

thanks for the TR. that uphill section on way out builds character. I could use less character though. The chimneys are a complex area. I have been in it a couple times and I don't remember that wall area or anything over 4th class. def never needed a rap to get down. not saying that I am a hard ass climber who solos recklessly in the mtns. just that there is or was a easier way up/down. Your way builds character though.

I mean this is in a honest non judgemental way. It is illegal to climb rainier solo without a permit. How is it OK to ski down unroped? why is that not considered solo climbing? Yeah I know he had partners somewhat nearby and skiers are less likely to punch through due to spreading the weight out over more snow. But with skiis getting shorter, it seems like that advantage is becoming less. I am not being critical of anyone's choices. We all do activities that have the possibility of injury or death. Sometimes blind luck saves us. sometimes luck is not good enough. Just curious how this fits in with MRNP rules. Maybe just a loop hole.

different situation but another skier crevasse fall over the 4th july weekend http://unofficialnetworks.com/2017/07/18/heavenly-ski-patroller-dies-on-mt-rainier/

been many years since I was last there but i remember the slope below the ice cliff as being crevasse free. interesting.

American alpine institute usually goes up that route every week with their alpine ice course. You can talk to their office for any beta. I think Cale Hoopes went up there recently also. He is on the site sometimes. Not sure of his log in name.

His view will be a vitriolic diatribe replete with course language. Of course he hates Trump, whatever Trump says or does, and would express the most negative opinion possible on the matter. Bob is actually quite generous and helpful once you get to know him.

And that is how to humble brag. Nice work! Which route did you climb? a route called "the nectar". don't get excited about me climbing a beast like that. I just saw it on her facebook page.

the ledge to approach the start of ragged edge will def have snow. a small unbelayed slip on that ledge would be death. route should be snow free but i would expect snow on peak.

also this http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1155449/Re_Pics_Beta_on_North_Ridge_of#Post1155449 a couple weeks old though.

no idea about right now. but if you bring a large dromedary bag, you can load up with a lot of water when you get off the glacier onto the n ridge itself.

I guess the downside of having the ends tied to your harness is that if there is any twist inducing elements in your rap setup, all those twists will build up and accumulate to a mess. But yes, twists suck less than death.

Maybe we need a rappel fuck up confession thread. I could start with that I rapped off the end of my uneven, unknotted ends, rope at index. Fell about 15 to 20 ft to a ledge then rolled off that the ground below, another 15 or so feet. Below Rodgers corner some 12 years ago. Got real lucky with only a simple spine fracture (no surgery needed) and a broken forearm bone.