glassgowkiss

It's reopening this Thursday!

This is one of the best safety and educational films I have seen. I think it can refresh a few things:

You can watch Dawn Wall on Netflix.

Go a bit later in the season, bring about 1/2 of food for your trip. Probably at least 50% of people on West Butt will leave early or bail from 14K camp, most of people leaving basecamp and 14K will have a ton of food and will try to leave it. The reason people don't summit is not because they are hungry, but because they did not train enough.

iTumes is already selling it, and renting it as of yesterday.

If you haven't seen the movie yet, do! Even though it's not really a "climbing movie", it's a great documentary about Alex and an incredible solo on Free Rider on ElCap.

Germany 1986

Colin on Ruth Glacier 2004

Me circa 1995 or 96

Yeah, a bunch of rich fucks build homes in a place they should not. Dam failure would mean absolutely nothing long term if it wasn't for houses.Well, I would say- let the nature decide. And honestly, get that fucking excavator out of there.

CLEARENCE! Long story short- after a sting of crappy injuries getting out of ice climbing. Hence selling a bunch of equipment as follows (all prices are in USD): Petzl Nomics- brand new, bought them right before my ankle fracture, never used. On of them has hammer on the back and one spare pick (also brand new)- $500 Petzl Laser Light. 2x20cm, 6x16cm, 6x13cm. two 16 and two 13cm are brand new, rest has minimal use- $740 for the lot or 55/piece. Metolius Monster 2x60m 7.8mm double ropes. I uncoiled them, but never used them. There is some chalk from chack spilling a bit in my gear box. $260. I reside in Bellingham. Best contact method is to call or txt 360-nine two 7- four 86 one

Not much of a season on the Coast this winter.

Very, very seldom there were any good conditions at this time of the year (lived there for 9 years in the 90's). Back in 92 or 93, during one of the low snow years, managed to romp up North Sister, which was a fun scramble. However usually the best conditions were either during Fall or during Spring (freeze/thaw). Paulina Falls can provide some entertainment on steeper ice (mostly TR). I remember doing some WI3 pitches on Broken Top, but again- they usually form in early Spring from freeze/thaw.

It's December. Besides a couple of ascents on Colfax, and maybe a couple ascents of some shitty ice blobs, accessed from Duffy Lake Rd, there is ZERO ice so far. We used to be able to climb reliably ice from mid November through mid March. Besides last 2 seasons, the new norm is basically only January and February. Rockies is still reliable, but most definitely seasons are also shorter (3 winters ago Left Side Weeping Wall fell off by mid March . At this point I am seriously contemplating selling my ice gear, as investing 2-3K into something you can do reliably for maybe 10-12 days per year does not add up. Probably will not buy a new pair of skis either. We will still have some good seasons, but more of the norm is a 2 months winters, with minimal snow and ice.

Looks like besides Colfax, there is actually still no ice. Probably the place to be now is Rockies and WY.