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glassgowkiss

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glassgowkiss last won the day on June 7

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About glassgowkiss

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    spray'prentice
  • Birthday 02/16/1964

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    disgrantled postal employee
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  1. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Yes- Coleman Deming Exactly, it will be 20-30 min in the bowling alley.
  2. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 06/15/2019

    Yeah, still can get up and down around that crevasse, but it is pretty exposed section to serac fall. Probably moving fast through that section would be a good idea.
  3. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    BTW, C/D Glacier is done for the season. A massive crevasse opened, basically making it impossible to cross safely.
  4. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    BTW, I was West of Rainier at Riff Lake, and by Sunday early afternoon it was pretty obvious storm was moving in. At 3500ft level winds picked up significantly and cloud was pointing to high moisture, strong wind combination. By 2 pm Rainier was engulfed in clouds.
  5. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    Says who? Melting of ice off the mountains significantly added to risk factor. North Faces in the Cascades were routinely done mid summer, now they would be nearly suicidal. Because of climate change, risk factors went up. It was showing in the Alps already since the 90's, but it's showing now here as well.
  6. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    Low temps will minimize rock fall. Hence you have less chance of being hit, when everything is frozen solid, and rockfall starts when stuff starts melting. Avi in 2014 was a snow field cutting lose at night, possibly triggered from higher up, but it was a wet slab. Yes, wrong place at the wrong time, but from risk management perspective, the less time you spent in a danger zone, the less chances of getting injured/killed you'll have. Regarding Howse Peak accident: Rockies is a very specific place and very dangerous place due to very very different snowpack. Many visiting climbers underestimate that place, and are not familiar with the specifics. When I started climbing there in the early 90's I was lacking understanding of snow dynamics in the range. Only after spending several seasons there, I developed a better sense of the place. Routes on East Face of Howse would be gang-banged classics, but they are surrounded by some of the worst avi terrain in the range. The trio probably underestimated conditions.
  7. Questions about Bugaboos

    Yes on chicken wire, but if you go there on Friday or Saturday, there might be no parking. There is water at Applebee. I was drinking it without filtering or boiling for about 2 weeks total and never was sick. You can use Kain hut during bad weather/rest day. Yes, they do have electricity, not sure what the policy on recharging would be. However I find hiking down and up almost 600m in elevation difference is not much of a rest day. Applebee is better for climbing and staying. It's quieter at night, can get better sleep, and you save an hour of walking every day, compared to when you stay in the Hut.
  8. Climber killed, others injured at Thumb Rock

    That is a case with many, many objectives. Particularly Canadian Rockies seasons have changed. Winter carries higher risk of avalanches on routes like LR, so pretty much not getting around risks involved. I think the only way to do it is being acclimatized and fit, and do it in one push, minimizing risks. Few years back, there was a party killed by an avalanche higher up, remember?
  9. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Regarding car rental: For one, yes- you need to add insurance , which makes rental more $$$, but it's a must. Second, can you handle traffic and how they drive there, particularly in smaller towns?
  10. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Volcano is a volcano. Do not expect technical aspect in either place. Also 1 week is a very short trip, so travel time counts.
  11. Denali food planning

    Probably after June 01.
  12. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I though it's climbing site, and we were talking rockfall on climbing routes. I think you mistakenly logged into cascadelimbers, but intended on some form of hiking site?
  13. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    One week MX would be far better- shorter travel time, and cheaper flights. If you speak rudimentary Spanish, there is zero reason for guide/travel service to get around. Just keep low profile and don't travel at night.
  14. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    That is exactly my point of being suicidal. And a comment "good job" should be replaced as "you are fucking nuts, and stay away from me". Paragliding has way different safety culture, and people who take unnecessary risks are being shunned.
  15. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    I don't know when classic Price Glacier was last climbed, but considering the shape it's in, it would be probably pretty suicidal at the moment. Last 10 years classic NF of Shuksan is basically falling apart, with large secions of rock being exposed by mid summer. So not a landslide, but glacial retreat due to climate change. Not Cascades, but Bugaboo/Snowpatch is usually too dangerous to be on by July. It suffered numerous large slides, with the biggest probably about 12 years ago. It would be interesting to study what caused this incredible demise of Joffre, and my understanding is that there were only a few slides of that magnitude in last several thousands of years. Another rockfall nobody mentioned yet is the Chief-top of Zodiac, taking out a section of Northern Lights area. Probably second largest rockfall, after Joffre.
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