glassgowkiss

It's December. Besides a couple of ascents on Colfax, and maybe a couple ascents of some shitty ice blobs, accessed from Duffy Lake Rd, there is ZERO ice so far. We used to be able to climb reliably ice from mid November through mid March. Besides last 2 seasons, the new norm is basically only January and February. Rockies is still reliable, but most definitely seasons are also shorter (3 winters ago Left Side Weeping Wall fell off by mid March . At this point I am seriously contemplating selling my ice gear, as investing 2-3K into something you can do reliably for maybe 10-12 days per year does not add up. Probably will not buy a new pair of skis either. We will still have some good seasons, but more of the norm is a 2 months winters, with minimal snow and ice.

Looks like besides Colfax, there is actually still no ice. Probably the place to be now is Rockies and WY.

Welcome to the Chinese hoax......

Just an update. Found a pair of Scarpa Ascent Tech GTX on eBay (they were brand new) in my size. IMHO, this is one of the best light alpine/heavy approach shoes ever made. They climb well up to about 5.6, can attach crampons for glacier travel.

Sold my 2 season old Cobras with brand new picks for $350.

Are routes on North/East side of Slesse repeated? Heart of Darkness is not, but what about N Face Couloir? Also Mark climbed a route on Cheam, which is moderate in grade, don't think it's repeated.

I did not mean like that. It might be one of these low snow winters, with good potential for winter alpine/mix, and these routes are unrepeated. Probably the route you posted would be pretty sketch when covered in snow, as probably gear opportunities would be limited.

Today he warmed up by OS on Badman and then he climbed Just Do It -OS. Pretty impressive- 8c+ after all. Btw, did Assassin a second go

Looks like it's more a summer route, with chossy rock, right? I pointed out routes that should be done under winter conditions.

Maybe you should ask Colin if the route on Chiwawa sucked or not. From the pics I have seen it is pretty unique and very classy, yet unrepeated after all these years. If it's a low snow winter, it might be a year for it.

I think in alpine far more important is the ability to hammer stuff in (like pins). However more bent tools climb better, particularly mixed, but they suck for hammering, so I bring light Petzl rock hammer with me. Adze comes handy to chop better feet on a semi-hanging belays.

I used BD Cobras for a few seasons. They are good all around alpine/ice tools, but they do not dry tool very well, nowhere near as good as Nomics. I switched back to Nomics, as they are a great all around tools for me.

Metolius always was and continues to be customer service oriented company.

A short answer is- NO. Not for multi day in that region. You will be on glacier entire time, hence you need to protect your feet. They are equivalent of Scarpa Phantom Guide (or Tech), basically a single mid warm boot. They are design to climb well in hard technical terrain. If you climb light and fast, single push- maybe. For multi day trip you will end up with frostbite. If you are planning on doing regular route (West But) just use AT boots with intuition liners. Most of West But is just flat glacier, and skis are way to go. AT boots will be good enough to go from 14K to summit, but skis are going to be much more handy below 14K.

Scarpa used to make Ascent Tech GTX- which were probably one of the best alpine approach (including glaciers) and for scrambling. Unfortunately they stopped making them.