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KaskadskyjKozak

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KaskadskyjKozak last won the day on February 22

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About KaskadskyjKozak

  • Rank
    Sick Spray Bird
  • Birthday 03/27/2000

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  • Occupation
    Code Monkey
  • Location
    Above Treeline

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  1. current song in your head

  2. The purpose of snowshoes is to carry them on your pack, so you will never use them. If you leave them at home, you will need them.
  3. confessional

    Bless me Porter for I have sinned....
  4. [TR] Mount Curtis Gilbert - West Route 07/11/2020

    I have Carrie left too. I'm excited for both Anderson and Carrie (and Clark, Deception). The Olympics always deliver!
  5. [TR] Mount Curtis Gilbert - West Route 07/11/2020

    #100? woot! I'm hoping to bag Anderson myself this May-June. Hope you guys get out there too!
  6. UFO Sightings while climbing

    Never saw Mogg or Schenker while climbing, but definitely enjoyed some classic tunes on my iPod
  7. [TR] Mount Curtis Gilbert - West Route 07/11/2020

    we gave this route a try in october but ran out of time with a mile to go to the summit (we were deep in the scrambling up high). We ended up bailing at sunset. next day we got Old Snowy and Ives, and now I have to go back for Gilbert.
  8. Stuart West Ridge - more beta than you can use

    Thanks for this bump. I'm definitely going to take my son on this route - hopefully this summer once I clean up some unfinished business in the Chilliwacks
  9. [TR] MT HOOD - Reid glacier HW 01/09/2021

    Great pics!
  10. current song in your head

    R.I.P., Edward!
  11. I've done that approach twice for NE buttress of Goode so I'm not sure I'd want a repeat (gawd it's awfully long and you are right about how far you really need to get on the first day). But it's definitely a cool TR - I never thought of even looking for a route from this side, since almost everyone seems to do the S side route (which does have some typical Cascade Choss). I'm actually wondering how the two would compare - the S side involves that long hump from trail to 7K that is pretty rugged and brutal itself....
  12. [TR] Big Chiwaukum and Snowgrass Mountain - Standards 07/04/2020

    Hey cool! It was nice to meet you. The photo you posted actually makes neither the snow nor the ridge look bad at all!
  13. [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge with North Ridge finish 09/13/2020

    Thanks, Jim. TBH, I'm grateful for any day I can get out, especially at my advanced age
  14. Trip: Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge with North Ridge finish Trip Date: 09/13/2020 Trip Report: After a couple disappointing attempts into Depot Creek I settled for a rock climb this weekend with my son. The smoke made multiple days seem unappealing but I figured a one day climb would be a reasonable compromise. My son and I headed out to WA pass mid-afternoon on Saturday, stopping in Marblemount to retrieve some items we had stashed in bear lockers on a previous trip that the maintenance crew took. We then proceeded to Lone Fir Campground for a relaxing evening before an early morning start. Alarms went off at 5:20 (damn it's dark now at that time!), and we drove to the pullout below Cutthroat. The smoke seemed to have worsened from the previous day, despite what we were expecting from reading forecasts. Oh well, we were there. View up in the morning: We made quick work of the approach to the base of the route around 7500'. We opted for the start just right of the prominent dihedral (with a wide crack) on the S side. The climbing started at class three then got harder and more exposed. I never saw any fixed pitons (I expected two) and ended up climbing to rap chains in one long 60m pitch. Later we found that this is the middle set of chains for the descent from the ridge crest. From here I led a shorter pitch to the crest and the top chains. This had a few rock moves mixed with scrambling. We then unroped and moved the belay as far as we were comfortable. There is one section of the ridge that becomes exposed on both side and requires moves around small micro-gendarmes that we didn't want to solo. So we backed down a few feet, built an anchor and simul-climbed the exposed section to a flat spot. View to the summit block from the exposed ridge: My son at the end of the exposed section: From here we opted to traverse the ledge to a notch in the upper N ridge. We simulclimbed that as well, but realized it didn't really require it (much less exposed than what we had just done). Ledge leading to the N ridge as seen from the N ridge notch: From the notch on the N ridge, I led a fun pitch up 4th and low 5th class rock until the terrain moderated to a scramble that led to the summit. Summit views S (very smoky): Summit views North (clearing some): After enjoying the summit for a while and fueling up, we began our raps down to the W ridge. We were expecting two 30m raps off of chains, but the 2nd rap dumped me on sketchy class 4 terrain, so I climbed back to the rope, attached a prusik, and climbed back to a 3rd rappel station (not chains, but quite elaborate set of round webbing/cordelettes). Me on upper rappel: We then simul-climbed the short exposed ridge section, downclimbed to the bolt anchors on the lower ridge and did 3 30m raps back to the base. Lower rappel. Note improved air quality by later afternoon The hike out was pleasant and we got to the truck just after 6:30, making it a 12 hour day. Gear Notes: Alpine rack up to 2" Approach Notes: Zero snow. Compared to other trips this summer, not too chossy
  15. [TR] Cowlitz Chimney - Standard 08/01/2020

    Yeah we did a hike this way to Tamanos Mountain - just above and right of the pic above. From there we actually were admiring Cowlitz Chimney and decided we'd try for it some day. I think it can be approached from Owyhigh but is best with snow/in Spring.
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