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KaskadskyjKozak last won the day on July 2

KaskadskyjKozak had the most liked content!

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About KaskadskyjKozak

  • Rank
    Sick Spray Bird
  • Birthday 03/27/2000


  • Occupation
    Code Monkey
  • Location
    Above Treeline

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  1. [TR] Big Chiwaukum and Snowgrass Mountain - Standards 07/04/2020

    we almost went for it on Saturday but did Big C instead. The snow was super hard and icy Sunday morning, so I have no regrets. Not worth a risk of a fall when a reasonable alternative exists
  2. [TR] Mount Formidable - South Route 07/05/2020

    Did you happen to get a pic of Buckner and Horseshoe Basin area while traversing over to Cache Col?
  3. [TR] Big Chiwaukum and Snowgrass Mountain - Standards 07/04/2020

    According to this TR, in a similar time of year and with a similar looking amount of snow on the face it is 40-45 degrees in places:
  4. Trip: Big Chiwaukum and Snowgrass Mountain - Standards Trip Date: 07/04/2020 Trip Report: With some forecasts looking meh on the observed Friday holiday my son and I opted for a more certain forecast in the Chiwaukums and a 2-day trip. Smoots are always a great Plan B. We car camped at the White Pine TH Friday night and headed up at dawn. We cut off the trail in the meadows below Big C at the standard spot just past the stream and headed up to about 6000'. We then sussed out the lowest feasible spot to get around the spur ridge (6400') and contoured over and around to lower Lake Grace. At this point Big C's summit was socked in and Snowgrass was going in and out of clouds. We set up camp and deliberated on options but as things started to clear on both summit tops went for the closer Big C. It took about 2:20 to summit from camp. Route-finding was relatively straightforward with cairns marking the "key ledge". It was clear but windy. Great views. Campsite: Lake Grace from ridge leading to Big C's summit Key Ledge: Snowgrass from Big C. Snowfield looks steep! We got down early for dinner and had plenty of down time. The next morning we got up at dawn. It was a cold night and the snow patches around camp were rock hard. We opted to contour around towards Frosty Pass (but not *to* it) and pick up the S ridge route rather than try the steep NE face route which had a bad rounout. Later we met a climber on the summit of Snowgrass who had also passed on that option and scrambled the rocks adjacent to the snow instead. We followed the S ridge directly up Snowgrass towards what looked like the summit but ended up at a flat spot before a notch with an exposed section to get to a false summit. From here it was not clear how to get around some rocky spots on the ridge. After about 30 min of looking around (and even contemplating going back the way we came to drop down on the easier snow field on the S face, we found a short, loose, exposed downclimb to a ledge system that skirted the snow and worked towards the summit block. All in all this prolonged our day, but we still got back to the cars by 6:30 that evening. Snow field leading to the S ridge of Snowgrass. Flat S ridge below the false summit area: False summit: Big C and Lake Grace: Smoot summit stoke: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Snow-free until 6000'
  5. [TR] Monte Cristo - Standard 06/22/2020

    I hear you on "boys never really took to it". I have three boys and only my youngest (he's 18) loves this shit. So far we are 2 for 3 this summer, with a turnaround 10' from the top of Whitehorse and a successful summit of the Tooth. Glad you enjoyed the TR!
  6. [TR] Monte Cristo - Standard 06/22/2020

    Trip: Monte Cristo - Standard Trip Date: 06/22/2020 Trip Report: After another disappointing weekend weather forecast my son and I opted for a one day trip up Monte Cristo on Monday. We had previously been in the area last September on a one day trip up Columbia Peak. From the latter summit we had discussed a return visit for either Monte Cristo or Cadet, and it's the right time of year now for either. We drove up to Barlow Pass Sunday night, arriving at dusk and setting our alarms for 4 am. We had our bikes with us to speed up our approach. We biked into town at dawn, locked our bikes at the rack and headed up the trail to Glacier Basin. The trail was in mostly good shape and snow free until you approach the basin above 4000'. We took a quick rest break just beyond and above Ray's Knoll, opting to put on crampons then. We ascended continuous snow from there to the v notch. The snow conditions were great - not icy but not too soft either. View up Monte Cristo in the morning: Ascending good snow From the col we roped up knowing there could be moat issues and that we needed to do one technical pitch anyways. As I approached the snow to rock transition, I could see it was already non-trivial. I downclimbed about 4 feet onto a snowy block and then tried to work my feet up to a higher snow block, but slid down and crushed the snow below me. I then tried to get into the moat higher up the slope, but it was worse there. I returned to my original spot and made several attempts to climb up 8 feet or so before finally succeeding, then made a low 5th move past a piton onto a belay ledge and brought up my son. We then got out the rock pro and I took a try at the short technical pitch. There was snow melting from above right into the crack I wanted to use. The pre-placed sling above was soaking wet and when I grabbed it water ran down my arm. Footing was not good with boots in the wet crack. I backed down and put on rock shoes so I could try to stay on dry holds on the right side of the crack, got up a few feet, then grabbed the wet sling to pull the lip. from there one more 5th class move got me to the rappel anchor. From this spot, we could see the source of the running water - a large snow patch right on top of the slabs. Fortunately the left side was dry and we were able to scramble past the snow on dry rock. Above that we also avoided snow by staying on blocky 3rd class terrain on ribs and eventually got to the finale- breccia rock on the summit block. Factoring in the moat shenanigans and wet crack for the rock pitch, we were satisified with our 8.5 hour time from cars to summit. Blocky class 3 scrambling below the summit: Kyes Peak from the summit: We downclimbed to the rappel anchor, rapped first to the belay ledge to retrieve gear, then into the moat. From there we roped up again (just to protect the moat exit) and returned to the v notch. From here we unroped and downclimbed the steep snow slopes face-in, using an ice axe and picket each for more security. The snow conditions were still good with not much more softening up since we had climbed. Once slopes moderated the hike out was cruiser. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, small rack. Approach Notes: Snow in glacier basin up to base of route.
  7. [TR] The Tooth - Standard 06/04/2020

    yeah, that block just sitting there was "interesting". I've been there though where the upper snow ramp is mostly melted with a bad runout to climber's right. At the moment that's not there at all (as you know)
  8. [TR] The Tooth - Standard 06/04/2020

    Trip: The Tooth - Standard Trip Date: 06/04/2020 Trip Report: I've been teaching my kid technical rock climbing skills this spring, and he has been itching to hit an alpine route. With two back-to-back "meh" weekend forecasts we opted for the Tooth midweek on a day advertised as "mostly sunny" on weather.gov. The TH lot has been open for business for over a week now, and we parked at the Alpental/Snow Lake TH lot. Much of lower alpental is melted out and rather than risk some possible schwacking we took the standard trail up to Source Lake. We hit patchy snow a few hundred feet below the turnoff and almost 100% snow from there to the based of the climb. The route itself is completely snow-free. We opted for a leisurely start leaving the parking lot around 7:40. We could see a party on the summit as we rounded Source Lake, and another in the basin. As we ascended, a party of two (also father and son) passed us by. So much for nobody on the Tooth (as turned out 4 more parties followed us that day). And of course it started drizzling rain after the second pitch. I opted for the Catwalk nevertheless as it is ledgy. There were some delays rappeling, but it was not too bad. It's the Tooth, after all. "Mostly Sunny" approach to basin: Yours truly below Pineapple Pass: Summit views with my son: Classic view up P1 on rappel: Victory toast. Now onto bigger and better trips.... Gear Notes: Standard small alpine rack Approach Notes: Patchy snow from 3500'; continuous from Source Lake turnoff; minimal moat issue at notch S of Pineapple Pass
  9. current song in your head

  10. current song in your head

  11. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    it was meant as a rhetorical question it will interesting to see when travel restrictions are lifted and for what purpose(s). tourism brings in money and in the coming recession that should drive lifting restrictions at some point
  12. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    To keep us out or Canucks in?
  13. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    Shhhhh no AR-14s allowed!
  14. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    we will all need fences to ward off the zombie apocalypse
  15. Climbing this spring (and maybe summer)

    sorry. my old eyes, addled by the lack of any rejunevating green exposure saw "northwest". peace.