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About jared_j

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999


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    Trip planning
  1. [TR] The Brothers - Brothers Traverse 05/13/2018

    Thread necro - any thoughts on best way down if you get up to the North Brother and have a change of heart about the traverse? Just reverse course back to the notch of the South Brother?
  2. Smoot has a dotted line in his book suggesting one could do a direct traverse from Big C to Snowgrass by climbing the snowfield, and I've considered trying it but haven't seen many pics online that made it seem doable. Looks like it'd be crazy steep no matter what season, like the north side of Sperry.
  3. I've never been further back than Eldorado up this way, and am trying to assess my options if the walk-up permit situation doesn't give me the flexibility of getting a permit in the Eldorado backcountry zone. Is bivying somewhere in the "Inspiration" backcountry zone gonna totally suck due to the topography, wind exposure, etc? Maybe somewhere near that col at the end of the Eldorado's North Ridge and Tepeh Towers (as it's labeled on the topo map I'm looking at, the "southwest-most" Tepeh Towers immediately ESE of the Dorado Needle). Is this gonna suck? The goal is to spend a couple of nights and wander around (Eldorado, Dorado Noodle, Austera, Tepeh Towers, Klawatti, maybe Austera).
  4. Old Kloke Book "One Day Winter Climbs"

    Thanks @JasonG and the Cascadeclimber lords for facilitating this. I'm hoping to pluck a couple of interesting / different outings from this book as new workouts when conditions permit but time does not. This thing is halfway between a "select" style book and the encyclopedic Beckey books. To use a metaphor that is drastically losing relevance in a digital world, I implore you all to share your favorite "deep cuts" from this slightly rough Cascade "box set". This book is like some thrift shop vinyl.
  5. I want a hard or soft copy of this book. I appreciate any help.
  6. Descend Burgundy Col without an axe?

    The three times I've been up there, the snow melts out on the northern (skiers left as you descend eastward from the col) aspect first and there's been a way to avoid the snow hugging that northern aspect. Snow is only mandatory if you're heading south (e.g. to Rebel Yell).
  7. Advice for First Timer to N Cascades

    If you don't mind camping on snow (since it'll be snowy as a MF around Wing Lake during your timeframe), then one of the ridge routes on Black Peak would have nice ambiance and views if weather allows. On paper this doesn't look like a huge / difficult mountain but I feel like it's a good "toe in the water" alpine environment in the way that Sahale is. Another pretty cool place is Gothic Basin. On paper not as ambitious or high altitude as a lot of the options described here, but there's aesthetic scrambling on Del Campo. This could be a good back pocket alternative if you want something that has less snow or a lower level of effort than some of the bigger alternatives.
  8. Gun Show?

    Thanks for the thoughtful and thorough reply.
  9. Gun Show?

    What is the scoop? I haven’t hiked in to see the aftermath of the rockfall incident from awhile back. Are people climbing there again? Categorically avoiding the area? Which route(s) were affected? I don’t know how to think about the risks beyond the generic quip about geologic time including now.
  10. There's faces and couloirs all over the range, some with easy access, some not. I've been on a lot of the standards, and want to hear from the experienced pros on this site about your favorites that aren't necessarily in the "Selected..." books/lists. I'm not a good skier so I'm asking more from the perspective of having a fun climb experience.
  11. I'm looking for a winter / spring outing in this neck of the woods that is sufficiently mellow enough to be done unroped, and done in a long day from the road. Probably not on skis. I know about hard routes around here, but other stuff not so much. Suggestions? Looks like Ruby Mountain across the way is mellow and may fit the bill.
  12. question Alpine, ice climbing pack

    The Black Diamond Speed 40 pack has a plastic sheet and stay. Their fabric is nylon; not the bombproof cordura of the CCW. They're about half the cost of Cilogear and HMG (usually can be found on sale for $130ish). It's a little smaller volume than the Chernobyl but probably adequate for winter daytrips. I see a lot of these in the hills, and think they fill the market niche you're in (threading the needle between affordability, durability, light weight). The older I get, the more convinced I am that I don't need a "cool kids" climbing pack for the majority of Cascade rambling where there's 0% chance of hauling a pack up a belayed pitch. If you're after some comfort, you may want to look at a Gregory Zulu 40 or Osprey Exos. The narcissistic elitist in me wants to carry a pack that signals that I'm more of a "cascadeclimber" than a "nwhiker", but it may be worth taking a look if you're seeking something that can give you some comfort / support (and maybe a pocket or three).
  13. Alpine 8/11-8/13

    I've got a hall pass this weekend with my wife and kids visiting the in-laws. I'm free from 9am-ish on Friday (after kids get dropped off at preschool), and would like to be back in Seattle Sunday evening at a reasonable hour. I've struck out on feelers with people I know, and am turning to climbing partner Tinder here. I'm interested in something alpine 5.8-5.9ish or under (harder if you wanna lead harder). It doesn't have to be technical rock necessarily, either. I don't have fingers of steel at the moment but have decent mountain / approach fitness. We'd be a good match if you're organized and experienced. I promise I don't suck and don't have any personality disorders. I'm interested in Pickets, Buckner, Triumph, but open minded as well. I'd prefer something not in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness just because it's unusual for me to get this much time and I'd like to take advantage of going a little farther away. Holla.
  14. Cascade high routes

    Ptarmigan Traverse unroped and speedy Leor's accomplishments are extraordinary, but I post as reference for a party that did the Ptarmigan Traverse (in its modern incarnation as a high route) sans rope. I think "weekend warrior" type folk could reasonably consider doing this route unroped in appropriate conditions.