Alex

The approach from the west is very long, undulating except for the last climb from Rainy Pass to Wa Pass. The approach from the east is pretty much uphill from town (Mazama) but over a fair number of avalanche debris fields that usually cover the road in a number of places all the way to Wa Pass, so YMMV with regards to how many time you have to hike But, bottom line: these are roads. Their grades are not very steep compared to real ski terrain.

Coming from Diablo it's only going to be lonesome during the week, maybe. It's very well frequented by snowmobiles et al during the winter. Washington Pass tends to be buzzing with them all winter.

thanks for your effort Darin, I will def go in and do it, as the position is amazing on that peak, and skipping the bottom junky pitches is also good

nice

squamish

ice floss. its just tough to rap on without a prussik knot

My crampons didn't poke a hole in the raft. We launched at the wrong spot in the dark, and capsized. It was a very dangerous situation that turned out fine. Still think about it often. The interesting irony is that while I am not a V4 climber, I and that same partner from the raft simul solo'ed NE ridge of Black without trouble some years back; the route is very exposed, I'm not surprised folks had trouble with it. That same partner(!) climbed W Ridge of Stuart with me in 13 hours easy car to car jaunt as well, and then did a forced bivy on it some years later with a different partner. I think it's really a YMMV thing, even very experienced people make mistakes, even when you've done the route before!

awesome

I've been up Quien Sabe in mid Sept, we end-ran around it without too much trouble, though it was quite large.

gene, no, most of the climb is a hike even more laid back than the first half of e ridge of edith cavell. but its clean and one can motor pretty quick.

That's the final pitch, yes. But the route I've taken is straight above the climbers head, not the thing to the left. It's like a single-move chimney thing, and you flop out onto a huge fat ledge not far from the summit block. It might not feel moderate with a pack & tired, on but by the time you are standing there, it doesn't much matter any more right?

I hate to chestbeat or trivialize or anything, but last time I climbed the Tooth I placed 1 piece (a cam) on the entire route. The final pitch now actually has a small collection of fixed gear, which is easily clipped with some alpine draws. You shouldn't need much pro...

this is not a guided climb

good one

fun stuff. that final slog up that slope before you can traverse back to the Arm is a soul killer

what, no epic? when you start ticking this stuff off epic-less, it's tme to take up a new hobby.

I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch, ... but seems from the epic summit shot with only 1 lens left in sunglasses that you are still alive Oleg so I guess not... Nice one!

right on

Hope you get your hookup, but fwiw it's an easy solo day hike if you start early enough. The Avalanche Gulch route is a walkup. At most, crampons and ice axe needed. Skis help if you are there early enough in the year.

super bok, nice! love that climb

nice job. that looks good for Jan 10th. the line i had always envisioned was actually a combo of what you guys did: start on the pillar under the roof but instead of traversing right and up, traverse left to the hanger, turn the roof to rest dierctly above. Unholy looking hard in that pic, nice style.

yes, there is some basic drytooling up at 38' called "Blackice Drytoolong crag", basically a set of kind of slabby, junky TR problems no one cares about wrt crampon marks. there is also a 2-3 line crag just outside issaquah on SR900 on sandstone of all things, with long but somewhat obscure local history, but with decent enuff stone and bolts (re)placed by yours truly that should make it safe to both tr and lead there is kind of more real drytooling at Rap Wall up at Alpental, btu snow is deep now so your mileage may vary

nice. guiness dripping is unusual as Field tends to be one of the cooler spots in the area and the climbs get no sun. moonlight and snowline are def classics and i remember my own romp up moonlight as a very fun honest 4 still to this day! As the days get longer now, into March, going for bigger longer routes like Murchison should be on your agenda

I knew! I went to college in Plattsburgh and Syracuse, and learned to ice climb at those venues you just posted about. Definitely a fun place!