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About Kraken

  • Birthday 11/28/1984


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  1. So when does Fred get the Piolet D'or Lifetime Achievement Award? Seriously.
  2. Give it a listen. It's not like that at all. Or just spray.
  3. There's a new podcast in town and it's not taking any prisoners! The Firn Line is a podcast about the lives of mountain climbers. First season is situated around Alaska. First season guests include Charlie Sassara, Mark Westman, Carl Tobin, Clint Helander and others. Incredible stories. Check it out. Evan makes all the music himself. This ain't your normal podcast! Check it out and tell your friends. Please share and review on iTunes. www.thefirnline.com Latest episode: http://thefirnline.com/season-one/life-revelations-clint-helander/
  4. you're climbing a real mountain, get a real camera. Seriously, the GoPro has its place, but not for quality photography of big landscapes. Denali is a big landscape, you will want to zoom and get a broad scope of focal distances. I think most Go Pro images turn out looking like junk. Spend $300 and get a solid point and shoot with at least a 5x zoom and you will be way more satisfied in the end.
  5. Rad attempt and great photos! Super cool! What were you shooting with?
  6. I second Keenwesh's latest opinions on single carrying to 11k and trying to summit from 14k. Personal experience: On my second denali trip, my partner and I single carried to 11k. We overnighted at 9k camp and then spent 18 hours at 11k camp before moving to 14k. We were also previously acclimatized from a climb of Mount Hunter, so you may need more time. We were able to go reasonably light (still felt heavy since we had a technical climbing kit), but we only brought 4 days worth of food. We knew that a bunch of people would be giving away food at 11k and 14k so we just brought some gas. This isn't something I would plan on unless you've been in basecamp for a while and know what's going on up there. We were able to communicate with teams up there and get the skinny on food. Once we arrived up there, the first free food we got was a full bottle of whiskey and moose steaks. We had ample food to choose from and i'm pretty sure I'll never get the rank smell of refried beans - quinuoa farts out of my sleeping bag. I personally think that the West Buttress is harder on my body than routes like the Moonflower. Dragging that fucking sled is a pain no matter how light you go. Single carrying was hard, but it did get us up there quicker. Again...if you aren't acclimatized, stay true to the conventional acclimatization method. Strong people have to get rescued and put on oxygen every single year because they think they are impervious to AMS and HAPE/HACE. I will never stay at 17k again. I spent six nights there on my first trip and it cured me for a lifetime. If you're fit enough to ski denali, I think you're probably fit enough to do it from 14k. We did it round trip for an acclimatization run in just under 12 hours without trying to bust up there all quick like. Again...you'll want to do a few acclimatization runs FOR SURE. I would advise probably two...one to the ridge at 16k and another perhaps up to Denali Pass at 18k. This will give you a good idea of conditions and will prep your body for 6k of elevation gain on the big summit push. Consider climbing your desired ski line.
  7. The Ruth is a car camping trip...meaning you don't have to move your stuff more than 200 feet from the runway. Bring a few gallons of white gas and two stoves and you can cook whatever you want. Eat like you do at home. There's no reason to be eating freeze dried meals at basecamp. I routinely fly in with several dozen eggs (freeze them before you fly in), salmon fillets, steaks, tons of Costco bagged meals (like Ling Ling, ravioli, etc.) Hell, fly in with King crab legs. The only limitation to your menu is your imagination, budget and desire to cook in the cold. You pay $1/pound over 125 pounds/person with the air taxis, so plan accordingly.
  8. You're actually recommending that this guy not rope up at all to 14k camp? That's pretty shoddy advice, from my perspective. People fall in crevasses all the time (especially between heartbreak hill and 11k camp. The lower glacier is an especially dangerous place. With a 70lb pack and a 30lb sled, going unroped is a fairly risky option. Sure people do it. Yes, I've done it. But Major...plan to use that rope on the way up...it's common sense. Shit happens. Also...the fixed lines...yes, while only 45 degrees, vary greatly in condition. Sometimes they're deep snow, sometimes they are bullet hard blue ice. The average climber will stay at 17k camp, therefore will have a 50lb pack and probably only one basic ice axe. Soloing next to the fixed lines without being clipped in is perilous not only to the climbers themselves, but to the others below (should they fall). If you want to ski the whole mountain, plan to be there in june when there is more snow. Know the condition of the upper mountain (and your fitness and stamina on summit day). Many people have died on the Autobahn (named for the many people who have rapidly fallen to their deaths on that exposed and icy slope) and many have died on the Orient Express (also named for the many people who have rapidly fallen to their deaths and landed directly on the outskirts of 14k camp). Bring skis to 14k for sure...at the very least you can get good runs below the fixed lines. Talk to the rangers at 14k. They will have a good idea of overall conditions.
  9. Heather's Choice is an Alaskan based high quality backcountry food company with a new Kickstarter campaign. Check it out! I have been using Heather's Choice meals on all of my big climbs and the food is SO SO good. Not only that, it's healthy and completely unique. Please consider contributing. You won't be disappointed the next time you fire up that stove for dinner somewhere in the middle of your favorite wild place! Heather's Choice on Kickstarter www.HeathersChoice.Com
  10. As much as I would support it being changed to Tahoma, I doubt that will ever happen. Alaska is different. We have a much closer relationship with our native people and native names. I believe there is simply too much intertwining of modern urban life around the name Mount Rainier, as well as a disconnect with the local native peoples to have it changed to Tahoma. Still...it would be cool to see it happen.
  11. rad! we tried that route once, but there was some big stuff coming down so we bailed. nice pics! thanks for the beta!
  12. I'm tired of lugging my ledge from AK to Yosemite and back, only to realize I like free climbing better than walling. I've used it on two walls and it is in very good shape. Your normal very minor scratches on the wall side are to be expected. I also sat on the ledge with my nut tool and poked a small hole, but had it patched on both sides (top and bottom) by a commercial sewing guy and it is stronger than before. The fly is in perfect shape, never used. Retail is $1175, I'll let it go for $800 shipped. Pics if you're interested.
  13. First generation Nomics. Picks in good condition. $300 plus shipping. Pics if you're interested.
  14. New without tags Arcteryx Alpha SL Pullover - XL "The Arc’teryx Men’s Alpha SL Pullover epitomizes the light-and-fast ethic. This 11-ounce shell features Gore-Tex Paclite shell fabric for waterproof breathable protection on lightweight backpack trips and alpine rock climbs. The jacket's underarm vent zips let you dump heat when you need to, and one vent zip extends all the way down to the hem for easy-on and -off even when you're wearing a helmet. Fully watertight zippers eliminate leaking. The adjustable storm hood fits over your climbing helmet, and the jacket stows in the front kangaroo pocket when the weather clears." Material: [membrane/laminate] Gore-Tex Paclite, [shell] 40D nylon Fabric Waterproof Rating: guaranteed waterproof Fabric Breathability Rating: guaranteed breathable Hood: yes Fit: athletic Center Back Length: 30.5 in Pockets: 1 chest kangaroo Seams: fully taped Venting: underarm zip vents Claimed Weight: 11.4 oz Recommended Use: backpacking, trekking, alpine climbing Manufacturer Warranty: lifetime $165 shipped
  15. file a police report and see if your car insurance company will pay for it as it was a break in. they should reimburse you after you pay a deductible.
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