Alex

I think Wayne was trying to say WI5 might be too lenient a rating for this route.

Pretty cool! Rat Creek seems to be becoming the "Strobach" of Der Worth, where climbing ice isnt about the ice limbing, but the whole package. That route on te right side seems a monster, an must form some years complete if its in that shape now!

Im Alex and I approve this TR.

Seems like a tough market to break into, as there have been alot of good offerings in the past, and its a tough price point.... My two favs: My old Trango 45L (it was size L) pack, yellow and black one. It was perfect. It lasted alot of hard-wearing years. My current Cold Cold World Chernobyl, which I like alot except the tool tubes are too old school. Everytime I think I about to cut them off the pack I stop, but I'm getting closer.

very cool way to get out and explore!

definitely helocopters! I think it must be a Frostfire II or Frostfire III, the original Mountainsmith Frostfire was about 5000 cu in. (thats the one I had...) It was a sexy pack but carried like crap and was not durable.

The road wont be open. The FS leaves it closed until the road dries out completely - eg snow melts off - so that the potholes dont get worse and the yahoos don't get high-centered up there, as there are generally very few turnaround spots. I did the route hiking from the gate back in ...I hesitate....1997? We tried it once in March and didnt even get to the Lake. We came back first weekend of May and it was casual. Both times as an overnight, but we saw folks on the route in May who were going car-to-car in a day, and it was really fine and fun either strategy you choose, the road is only a plod on the way back down when you are tired, but by then you've sent a great alpine route and the suffering will be ok. But if you try to go in a day car-to-car, in order to get on the route at daybreak you'll likely be leaving at or before midnight, and chances are you'll not get lost only if you have a trail already blazed to Colchuck Lake, or you've done it alot before.

johndavidjr, if you are referring to a Mountainsmith Frostfire, which is ndeed early 90s vintage, that pack and even the Frostfire II are not more than 60 L. I had a TNF Inca Trail long ago, which was fairly large, larger than my Frostfire (I), but it was only about 75L. It carried like crap.

wimps the best way to introduce your honey to the pleasures of climbing is to get your -20C sleeping bags and take a nice cheap ice climbing trip to Banff. Hostels? Hotels? Rocky Mnt Ski Lodge? Akai? Too expensive, you sleep in the car. You can keep each other warm. And makes for nice late starts. Breakfast? That's what the white gas camp stove is for, as well as Safeway. You can regale her with how you are training for Denali so you have get get used to using the stove in -15C. Oh and all temperatures are in CELSIUS. Leave Fahrenheit in the States, like miles. The camp stove is also for warming up your oil pan. Espresso? What are you from Seattle?!? The nice long drive to Weeping Wall allows you to run the car heater and warm up. Start on WI2? Not a chance, start on Weeping Right with her in tow. Since you know your trip will be pretty short A Priori, might as well get some real climbing in, eh? You'll be soloing because she doesnt know how to belay yet, but the falls are clean. No need to worry about av danger on Weeping Wall, might as well STACK THE DECK IN YOUR FAVOR! Next day you send Murchison, because the drive is just as long from town and the hike warms you up too (finally warm....). The only pleasures allowed on this trip are on the final day, a single trip to Laggans Deli. The money that you save from this trip has already been spent on Marmot 8000m parkas to keep you warm at belays. (This describes somewhat accurately the first 3 or 4 trips I took to Banff!)

The recent thread genepires posted on risk comes to mind reading the ESPN article. Agreed these guys were pros. Sorry to hear about this accident

For a general survey Climbers Board is probably best. If you're after risk specifically associated with backcountry skiing and avy beacons, stuff like that, I would go frieshiezzone.

older-school Dana Designs, I have an old-school Dana TerraPlane I've taken to Alaska. But it's much much too large for anything but extended trips in the lower-48. If you're looking at a 90+ liter pack, I hope you're not overpacking for weekend trips! The last 12 years or so I've been using a 45L pack for all trips, including some winter alpine overnights.

Scarpa Eiger (standard boot, not Assautl) leather boot, sz 43.5, not used much older style Scarpa T1 tele boots sz 6-7 Mens http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/CIMG16531.JPG Make me an offer on either. PMs.

That's the nicest topo I've seen so far Kurt, thanks for sharing!

This is cool man, it's nice to see something I'm not familiar with!

Last Sunday there was still ice on the mixed routes above Blackice at Exit 38. This Sunday it's all completely gone, melted away...

Good input Dru. But I would not recommend PanDome as a lead for a WI3 leader; so JCDH, tread carefully there and know that it IS possible to TR it with some shenanigans approaching from trees from above.

The approach from Ipsut Creek isnt so bad, if you have some extra days. You break out into skiable/skinnable terrain after perhaps 4? miles of relatively low el hiking. I did this in April 1995 and I remember the trip as being pretty pleasant.

90 min from Van == Whistler, so... no not really. Best and most reliable WI3 area is going to be Rambles up on the Duffy, past Pemberton Welcome to West Coast ice climbing!

Just a word... Avalance Gulch is a pretty casual route and has hordes of folks going up and down it on a good weather weekend day. For most people its a long day trip. Crampons and ice axe recommended. You probably dont have to show up with a partner if you have very good weather (which, for Northern Cali, shouldnt be too much an issue compared to - say - Mt Rainier), and understand where the route goes. Worst comes to worst you start up at 3am like everyone else and if you are in decent shape will likely find a pace that is similar to lots of folks Lastly, dont let the mindset "I came all the way from Florida, I HAVE TO SUMMIT AT ALL COSTS!" set in....you're going to be at very high altitudes and stupid thinking will just get you in trouble. I would set a reasonable turn-around time and stick to it. (full disclosure: I soloed the route in 1994 with my several-months-old Malamute puppy)

Agreed, just about the only brief bright spot was that "Back of the Lake" climbing around Snow Lake earlier...

I can't believe its almost the end of January?!?

I dont think the rock is better than Hyalite, actually. I think its kind of crap.

youd likely get more than that if you put it on ebay