Alex

perfect trip!

Now that's pretty funny (both posts...!) Maybe Bob is talking in Quebecois?

I've placed a reasonable amount of bolts and here is some more advice for you please please please don't hand drill if your intent is to make safe placements. epoxy will only make it harder to service or replace well-placed hardware later. you really shouldn't need it. you're going to want to use a pipe cleaner and blow tube and thoroughly clean each hole so there is no dust, glue or no glue depending on the bolt, you might need a torque wrench to torque the bolt/nut to the correct tension.

I've never led it to the first bolt, always stick clipped. though this particular method is new and novel...

another vote for index itinerary: jap gardens to first anchor - relatively safe C1 except the start where you have to be really careful or youll deck city park - stout C1 but very safe with the bolt ladder to start. steel monkey - short but technical. i think the only good piece is the last one to te anchor. hb offsets ten percent - real creative clean aid

Nice! Great East Coast classic. I climbed it on Thanksgiving day once with a buddy and my fingers completely froze while leading the last pitch, so...no more gear placing until the top! Then screaming barfies, before I could belay my friend up. Ah, memories!

It's a nice climb. I found that roof move to be real easy, but whatever, it was a nice position. I took the pitch after the roof and it was definitely my favorite of the climb. Fun times!

yikes!

sounds familiar. I did same trip with dps and my wife back in 2002(?), as the start of the TFT. After a lightening storm and rain near Torment summit, we decided to bail on TFT, ended up bivying anyway on the SE Face of Torment while trying to get down (it wasn't so bad, but we had to stay tied in), and went down next morning like you.

If you get a good weather window, eg 12-24 hours with clear skies and nothing in the forecast, no forecast storms, its a real treat. The weather will be your primary challenge. The S Side / Hogsback route is very doable winter-time climb.

definitely, the vapor plumes are extra cool

its not 5.8. if you think so you need to go climb some real 5.8s somewhere.

wheres the pics of la blonde??

I'm glad that water is important at Washington Pass. "Non-Climbing Gear A good supply of water is key, both for climbing days and for camping. Potable water is available at Tuolumne Store and the Tuolumne Campground. " http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/washington-pass.html

Nice, that's a great area!

thats alot of holes for a little drill, i wouldnt hesitate

I'd get back into 11 shape if there were hott prana-top groupies, though. But last I heard they were all bouldering ....

Where's the "like" button? Geez I'm lost on this old-skool website UBB thing!

I'm embarrassed that you overheard my kid lying to me.

I've gone Sahale Arm to the SW aspect of Torment without issue. There is only one more long ridge running down that divides Boston Basin from Roush Cr, which is the long ridge coming down climbers right as one approaches Eldo via Roush Cr. Seems totally doable.

Saying that you have to have done something "all around" eg can lead 5.11 trad offwidth before you can properly proclaim yourself a 5.11 trad leader is contrived. Climbing is contrived to begin with, why make it so much more complicated? Next I'll have to present some paperwork to get my Bobcat badge.

Are you using tape? It helps prevent skin abrading. Otherwise, I find good hand jams and finger locks one of the most comforting things out there. They CAN BE painful sometimes, for me mostly because I rarely climb with tape, but its not like ALL your weight is on your hands, your feet are still taking the majority of your weight. Right? I've found Breakfast of Champions is a good crack for painless hand jamming. There are a few routes at Leavenworth in the 5.9 - 5.10 range that have nice secure hands.

this series of TRs with no epics is getting boring

so, if I undertand your situation correctly, in order to do this this stuff with your chosen partner, your wife, you're willing to carry the majority of the stuff? If so, Ok, disregard my comment. I was assuming a 50/50 split between two equal partners. If each partner is carrying 30-40L packs, thats how you get to what I was stating. Finally, rope is almost always outside he pack, not inside.

khu, if you can't fit everything incl climbing gear and overnight gear - pocket rocket, canister, titanium cup, ultra light bag, etc - into a 40L pack, you are taking too much crap. My wife does overnight alpine trips with a 30L pack, incl climbing shoes, sleeping bag, bivy sack. Something to aim for....