Alex

definitely. I remember the initial studies that changed how climbers placed screws (the +20' angle) and also some other papers that make me put a screamer on each and every screw I place. in ice climbing you need all the help you can get and learning some of these lessons is important to being a competent leader. That said, I am not sure I am going to go and change out my rack to be all stubbies in light of this. The modern 16s and 13s are so quick to go in that at my level I don't need the extra couple seconds reducing rack to stubbies would affoard me. in the cascades, though, I still rack at least 1+ 10cm, and 3+ 13 cm screws for ever lead, cause it's just never that thick....

stout

mickebob, we saw that on the drive up to the pass. whats it rate?

I was out in Quincy yesterday, it was very cold after dark, biting wind. There was no snow E of the Columbia river though, so there hasn't been that much moisture.

Kevino, pic 4 is Ice Dreams, 7 is First Ice on the Right.

Sad Cebu is for sure, as is Sudden Change and maybe one or two others, and they will have higher likelihood to be formed because they are also lower angle, But a lot of other lines are snowmelt fed - all stuff left of Sep Gully, and/or steep enough to need enough time to bridge vertical. Psychd to hear what you find! I've climbed there as early as Dec 4th (2 routes) and still little enuff snow to drive to 609. But generally you need wet falls....

Hate to be skeptical, but its been a really dry fall and is barely cold enough, hope u find some goods!

nice raf! glad to see you got out there for a long trip! yeah kitty hawk is full on. rocky mountain has always been one of the decent places in canmore, nice basecamp.

I've never seen a scurlock pic of nf booker that had any ice on it? agree the face is large. the rock is junk, fwiw.

I've always found the back side of Table to be harder than it looks, and a serious wake up call in the early season for ppl who aren't already solid WI5 leaders. I'd proceed with care!

Yakima is good for certain things - ice climbing at Strobach and access to Rainier - but the pass to Rainier is closed in the winter, and the rock season is somewhat shorter than the Leavenworth area, and rock not nearly as high quality (IMO) as the Icicle and Tumwater. Its a "smaller" town feel than Wenatchee. Wenatchee is probably the winner between the two if you consider most of your time will be spent in Leavenworth.

Nice. Yes, it's quite early for a weather window like this. Without a base to build on, the new ice will be pretty fragile. I love exploring but the ticket in the early season to avoid getting hurt is be pretty conservative!

Yes. May is like a shoulder month in the mountains, between ski season and true alpine season. What did you want to climb?

those are all pretty sick times (all of you), but I've sailed to Tahiti probably faster than any of you ever will! Probably the fastest I've gone in the mountains are Direct East Buttress in around 3 hours, and NE Buttress of Slesse with Jens Klubberud, which was very fast climbing between the both of us. I think I'm not a very speedy climber in general though, so some of the times you are listing seem unattainable to me in my normal state of fitness or employment

I love some people think just because their group is smaller or more experienced, they somehow have dibs or rights, or a place to complain. Or that that some arbitrary group size is "too big". 6? 20? Or that guided groups guided by a "pro" somehow have some kind of entitlement over guided groups guided by "amateurs". Give me a freakin' break. This is Smith Rock, and there are precious few places to climb in Oregon let alone moderate practice routes at Smith where someone could actually learn. But not only that, this happens every day at any large well known crag: Gunks on a weekend anyone? You're only save there is to keep walkin'. Red Rocks Gallery? Wait in line. JTree? Wait in line or man up and lead the scary shit. I would like to see these newbie climbers have a great, positive experience at Smith, facilitated by safe, experienced climbers - both the climbers leading the group and the climbers around them who were encouraging them - than not...

I think the title of this post should rather read "I was late..". The other climbers did nothing wrong here, they just got up earlier than you. Smith is a very large place. Coulda gone to the Marsupial crag or the Gorge or something that isn't as popular.

you know if the weather sux for hood it is 99.7% likely to suck for st Helens as well. just sayin'.

dude, there is no shame in learning to ski and yard saleing all over the bunny slope, that's what the mightly Summit at Snoqualmie is for! I'll be there with my two budding alpinists all winter again this year! everyone who skis had to learn, and everyone who learned fell a lot at one time or another! What you really don't want to do is go backcountry skiing with poor skillz and either get injured far from the car, or die in an avalanche, those are just poor form.

skis and snowboards suffer equally on hard avi debris you can make up whatever contrived examples you want to support your arguments, but fact is that either splitboard OR skis are going to be way more efficient than snowshoes so the long term goal should be some form of sliding. Stay focused I think one other thing that deserves to be said is invest in a beacon if you don't have one

lambone! great pics, looks like a great adventure!

I'd echo what most posters are saying, to reinforce you making the correct decision: learn to ski, and on the proper gear. Climbing boots are not the proper gear. I've been skiing since I was 4. I used to think I was a hardman skiing around on 404s in my Nepal Tops; because I've been skiing long enough, I could actually do it without wiping out ALL the time. But I still wiped out regularly. I just didn't know any better. Then I borrowed a buddy's Dynafit setup for one weekend. Trying to learn in plastics with 404s and without buying a ski ticket and a lesson might be somewhat cheaper, but its a great way to get injured for the rest of the year. The modern randonee boots with their thermal-moulded linings, lockable ankles/cuffs, nice walking rocker to the sole, and great plastics are far superior to most climbing boots these days for long days in the mountains and snow. You don't have to go Dynafit, you can get any good setup, it will just be a little heavier. Buy some night tickets or better yet a night pass to the Summit, focus on becoming an adept in-bounds skier on your decent rando setup this season, and you'll never look back. Alot of the winter climbing routes in the cascades have now also been skied, just goes to show how much mileage you're going to get with the right skilz. Climb up, ski down.

forecast is epic through the weekend for this kind of early season actshun. unleash the hounds.

nice

up to several feet on the plateau, as of Sun/Mon