Alex

this is not a guided climb

good one

fun stuff. that final slog up that slope before you can traverse back to the Arm is a soul killer

what, no epic? when you start ticking this stuff off epic-less, it's tme to take up a new hobby.

I am still trying to figure out if Oleg was calling Anastasia a gypsy AND a witch, ... but seems from the epic summit shot with only 1 lens left in sunglasses that you are still alive Oleg so I guess not... Nice one!

right on

Hope you get your hookup, but fwiw it's an easy solo day hike if you start early enough. The Avalanche Gulch route is a walkup. At most, crampons and ice axe needed. Skis help if you are there early enough in the year.

super bok, nice! love that climb

nice job. that looks good for Jan 10th. the line i had always envisioned was actually a combo of what you guys did: start on the pillar under the roof but instead of traversing right and up, traverse left to the hanger, turn the roof to rest dierctly above. Unholy looking hard in that pic, nice style.

yes, there is some basic drytooling up at 38' called "Blackice Drytoolong crag", basically a set of kind of slabby, junky TR problems no one cares about wrt crampon marks. there is also a 2-3 line crag just outside issaquah on SR900 on sandstone of all things, with long but somewhat obscure local history, but with decent enuff stone and bolts (re)placed by yours truly that should make it safe to both tr and lead there is kind of more real drytooling at Rap Wall up at Alpental, btu snow is deep now so your mileage may vary

nice. guiness dripping is unusual as Field tends to be one of the cooler spots in the area and the climbs get no sun. moonlight and snowline are def classics and i remember my own romp up moonlight as a very fun honest 4 still to this day! As the days get longer now, into March, going for bigger longer routes like Murchison should be on your agenda

I knew! I went to college in Plattsburgh and Syracuse, and learned to ice climb at those venues you just posted about. Definitely a fun place!

If it gets warm and sketchy then the "old standbys" for cold are Murchison, Bow Falls, Panther Falls. On average that stuff will be at least 10 degrees colder than the stuff near Canmore. Weeping wall if it's not too cold but it gets sun affected quickly. Field is also a good bet, though not Silk Tassel. Super Bok might be cool. If not Massey's is a consolation for the walk. In real sunny high av conditions I tend to stay away from Cascade, Bourgeau climbs, Kidd Falls, anything with hazard above.

no shit. a little warm up and poof, all gone. Well, so much for that wa ice season

cowgirls was sickly shape compared to clockwork, doubt thats changed. not enough water or cold this season

nice. good to see it touching down, maybe its time to go for pitch 2

No, but there is a little less ice compared to the last time we climbed it. For you if youre leafing strong you should go do Shitting Razorblades

nice strong send on both counts, thats a hard route! the thing to the left is an FA afaik, do you want to provide some naming and info for posterity?

Update from our Columbia Basin tour on Sunday Fugs Falls - "formed"/building, but very thin, it needs to be colder. Probably best to TR it if you go. Frenchman - not in. Soap Lake stuff incl beer climbs - It was cold enough but it's been too dry. None of that stuff is even remotely worthwhile. Champagne - Anemic, the upper 15 m of the first pitch has no ice, so TR only. Scotch - No. Clockwork Orange - The bottom pitch is in and makes a potentially safer practice area than Punchbowl. Middle pitch is about 6 feet from touching down, and will touch down in the coming week. Upper pitch is in, but very thin first 10m. Cowgirls - No. Absent Minded Prof - No, very dry. Cable - It's there, to the ground, mostly icicles, TR only? H202 - Mean shape, very thin, but touching down. Salt and Pepper - In. The mixed pitch to get to the ice is not for the faint hearted. Emerald - Don't know. Shitting Razorblades - In, it received it's second ascent in the past week. Zenith - Not even close, it's too dry. Pee Wees - a few climbable lines. Punchbowl - In with deathcicles present. Seeing all this stuff, I'd say it's a pretty bad year for the desert, looks like it's generally been too dry and a couple degrees too warm. Happy hunting!

any info on vantage? I might head out there Sun and if bad continue up through park and blue to banks.

I actually recall having this conversation sometime after the guidebook was published, but I don't remmber whether it was in the context of someone aving actually climbed it (less likely) or someone just asking about it

anyone - craig? - seen Fugs or Frenchmans lately?

Chair peak N Face was climbed several times this weekend, as was Pineapple Express.

Terrible news