aikidjoe

Thank you for kicking steps!

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Trip Date: 03/31/2018 Trip Report: Quick conditions update, for those of us that don't have facebook and like CC as a resource! Anthony and I climbed TC car to car yesterday. What little ice there is in the sections between couloirs was very thing, not well formed, and poor quality. We brought screws but didn't really place any (I think I placed one 10cm for the sake of it but it wouldn't of held anything). We climbed up the right side of the runnels which seemed to me to offer more rock pro, since the ice wasn't taking screws. Run out mixed climbing and lots of piton placing! The second pitch was the most sketchy; the start was a short section of fun with a thin smear of snice in an open corner that we climbed delicately, but pretty soon that turned into snow on a short blank face with no ice or snice to help. Forunately there was an old rapel tat slung around a horn that with some funky rock climbing was just in reach, and I swallowed my pride and used it as aid in desperation. With some ice, even just a little, it would have been super fun. The exit out of that section was also delicate and engaging. The third pitch was really fun with a neat bit that combined dry tooling, chimneying, and an exit onto thin delicate snice, followed by some uncoslidated snow to add to the spice. The pitch between second and third couloirs was the least difficult I think, but by then the lack of sleep was catching up and I found it harder and more awkward than it really should have been. Overall the snow quality was great. The wind was calm and the views stellar, and it was cold enough but not too cold! A second party just ahead of us climbed up the first couloir a bit then traversed over and rapelled into the top of the 2nd runnels pitch. Thank you to them for kicking steps! It was a really fun day out and the hardest mixed climbing in the alpine I've done so far, and while there were some rather scary and run out climbing, I had so much fun. I've come to the conclusion that if you want to climb winter/spring alpine in the Cascades, you have to get comfortable with mixed climbing, as its just too damn hard to reliably find ice. Photo of N Face: Gear Notes: We brought set of cams from .01-1, a set of stoppers, 5 knifeblades/bugaboos, 1 lost arrow, and (2) 10, (3) 13, and (2) 16 cm screws, and 2 pickets. We used all the KB's/bugaboos, all the cams from 0.2-1, and a selection of the smaller stoppers at some point, and the pickets as the anchor at the top of the crux pitch exiting 2nd couloir. Approach Notes: Trail is well packed

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Hello, I'm looking for a competent partner to head into Stuart Range this weekend. I'd like to check out Dragontail and give TC a shot if its in. If not, I'm sure there is something on either Dtail or Colchuck to do as a backup! If it's in decent shape I can lead it, and have all the gear except short screws. My thought is to hike in on Saturday and climb Sunday. I'm open to the idea of car to car, though spending a night in the mountains is very nice idea to me right now. Based out of Seattle, happy to carpool or meet at the gate. I've climbed TC a couple years ago, albeit in really fat condition, and have a good amount of alpine experience. Feel free to shoot me a message or email me. Would like to make sure we're a good fit. Cheers! Joseph josephmontange at gmail dot com

Totally agree with this. I've also met a couple of climbing partners that I would call good friends through this site (and of course bad ones that make for good stories). I really hope that a) the updated site will bring people back since it's now easier to use and 2) that I have trips this year worthy of posting here!

I find that 10% of the time my predictions are right, all the time.

My buddy and I climbed part of S Gulley of Guye 2 weekends ago. It was fun but precarious at the time; the easy short mixed sections had crappy thin ice that fell apart as you climbed and had very poor pro, and the sections between didn't have enough snow to make for easy plodding between, so everything took longer than we hoped. That combined with a late start, short days, and a strong spindrift avalanche that was close but fortunately missed us, we turned around about 2/3 of the way up! It was fun though, and maybe with more snow and a melt-freeze, it'll be really good soon.

Thank you!!

Wondering if there is any news on Banks Lake? Thank you!

Hi all - Reaching out to the community for comments on experience. I'm building my top rope solo setup. I currently have a Petzl Minitraxion, and am thinking of getting the Wild Country Ropeman2 as the back up, since it's less than half the cost and functions similarly. Does anyone with experience using the Ropeman have any feedback? Allow rope to glide through well? Catches without slipping? Etc. Thank you very much! Joseph

Maybe the logic is that if you are with a team, at least someone will know exactly where you are and can call for a rescue?

Awesome Joe!

Thank you for sharing this!

I recommend American Alpine Institute if you're looking for a 5+ day course to cover the basics of climbing.

If you can afford it (both time off work and cost), I think it's totally worth taking an Intro course that covers both general mountaineering and rock climbing. It's the fastest way to get exposed to the basics and form a solid foundation, but it also depends a lot on the organization. I had a great experience with American Alpine Institute, which did a great job of teaching and not guiding when I did courses with them 10+ years ago, and I assume they are still great. Cost and being able to take the time off work are definitely factors, and I was very fortunate to take several of their courses (Intro to Mountaineering, Intro to Ice Climbing, Alpine and Tech Leadership 2). I've been able to grow from there.